How to Replace Brake Pads and Rotors Top 10 Brake Job Tips
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- čas přidán 24. 09. 2015
- Need new brake pads and rotors? Watch this video on my Top 10 Brake Replacement Tips before you change your brake because I cover a few tips that many people overlook!
Brake Cleaner: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000...
Wire Brush Set: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003...
Brake Compressor Tool: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007...
Here is the Silicone Paste I used: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005...
Antiseize I use: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H...
How to Replace Brake Pads (the Complete Guide): • How to Change Front an...
How to Prevent Uneven Brake Wear: • How to Fix Uneven Brak...
One Man Brake Bleeder: • How to Make a One Pers...
How to Replace Drum Brakes: • How to Change Drum Bra...
How to Bleed Brakes: • How to do a Complete B...
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-Website: www.ChrisFixed.com
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Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of ChrisFix, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. ChrisFix assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. ChrisFix recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of ChrisFix, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not ChrisFix. Copyright 2015 ChrisFix All rights reserved. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
I have been changing brakes for years.... "Tip 1, turn the steering wheel" Whelp, I guess I can learn a few new things.
@ALXXX struggling 🤣
@@Power_Glove yes you can.....??
@@Power_Glove I did... It was dangerous I guess?
Hahaha I was thinking the same thing...frickin lightbulb 💡 just went on. “Oh... yeah”
@@Power_Glove Turn the steering wheel, jack, replace breaks, set down, turn the steering wheel, jack, replace breaks, set down. Just plan ahead. And if you don't plan, to plan ahead, if you are like me you will not do it!
my top tip is to watch chris fix before undertaking a diy job.
+abdi risaq mohamed haha that is a good one!
I agree and i always look up a job here as Chris Fix is guaranteed to show a top job.
Lol true just finished a job and that bleeding tip would have been good to know lol
Just watch out for the April fools ones hahahaa
😂 but who does ChrisFix watch?
It's really important to mention about pressing the brake pedal right before the brake job is finished. Working at the dealer we had one technician get crushed by a vehicle as another technician tried to deliver the car to the owner. The guy got crushed as he was between the tool box and the car. He got paralyzed because of someone forgeting to press the brake pedal. Safety is always first.
Damn wtf.
What does pressing the brake pedal do? Or do you mean just holding it down while the car is lowered? Expand please!
@@lyianxso you know how you compress the break cylinder to install the break pads. We’ll press the breaker to add that tension again and be able to stop. If that thing doesn’t have pressure you’ll step the break all the way in and won’t be able to stop on time
seems the technician should learn drive from reverse also.
Chris, You are what is good about the internet and You Tube. I have been working on my own cars for 50 years and your videos and tips are done so well and if anyone out there needs helped and have tried to find an honest mechanic who charges fair prices and (they are getting harder to find) then don’t be afraid to try it yourself. Chris makes it easy to follow do what he says step by step and don’t be lazy and skip any steps because they really can help parts last.
Thanks a lot Buck!
Only 1 comment?
Chris, I just finished doing my brakes and here's one you forgot to mention.
"Wear those Latex gloves unless you want to be spending an equal amount of time washing your hand afterwards."
You can put like five layers of them on so you just peel the outside glove off each time they get used up. No fumbling trying to put new ones on with sweaty hands. Thanks again!
I have become far more handy with my car and house over past decade due to CZcams. And honestly your extra tip is as important as nearly any on car work. even if you use 4 pairs of latex gloves doing a brake job (due to taking a break, having to help your kid with something, hands get too sweaty, etc) it is a major time saver. Yes some latex waste, but washing hands in hot water for 5 minutes is not exactly waste free.
ya can get gloves cheap at harbr freight
I buy the black nitrate gloves. 100xbetter and they fit.
@@zardozqq black nitrate gloves only. The blues are to small and break super quick
Great video man, keep it up. GOJO is a miracle worker. That Citrus and Pumice water-less hand cleaner takes that grease off in no time. Killer stuff.
Great tips, quick update to accommodate newer vehicles....for those who may not know, don't try to compress the rear brake caliper pistons if the vehicle has EPB (Electronic Parking Brake). There are some work arounds but you should use a diagnostic to put the EPB in service mode or risk costly damage
depends on the car the subaru i have uses electric parking brake on drum brake and the disk part on rear for driving you just have to release parking brake to get rotor drum combo off
Yes! Greasing the guide pins is one step that most of the brake job videos on CZcams tend to leave out…. One thing you did leave out that most others do also is that before you press the piston back into the caliper, you should remove the brake fluid reservoir cap and wrap a towel around the reservoir to catch any brake fluid that may seep out as you are pressing the piston back into the caliper…
He didn't do it because he was unscrewing the valve bleeder.
Tip: be sure you have the tools you need so you don't have to stop in the middle.
my brain: yes absolutely
also my brain: we don't need that tool, forget about it
Especially if it is your only car. :)
Sometimes you don't know what tools you'll need until you hit that oh shit point in a job and realize you didn't have what you thought you did. Those tools vary by car and model, so you'll hit that point eventually if you don't have a full garage.
Oof. You got me with this one. Touche my dude.
@@Enonymouse_ lmao that oh shit part is the worst
Tip 11: press the brakes a few times before driving off your driveway.
Pieter LOL
Pieter ,You are the perfect man, that is much important.
Remove the brake fluid reservoir cap before compressing the piston back to prevent damage to the abs pump.
@@rowentan well if you crack open the bleeder valve that fluid isn't going back to the reservoir
@@g19634 I've seen service technician at Mazda dealership compressed the piston without releasing the bleeder valve nor removing the reservoir cap. That's definitely going to screw up the abs pump module. Removing the reservoir cap technique is useful when you don't have another person assisting you on your brake job.
Been changing brakes for myself, friends, and family for around 20 years and I only do about half of these tips. I'm definitely going to incorporate some more of them into my next project! As you said, these things are often overlooked. If you don't do them, you're not necessarily doing the job "wrong", but why skip such easy steps which will help avoid future problems when you already have the system apart? Awesome video!
Got someone to do my front brakes a week ago, watched them do it and thought "damn i could have saved myself 40 bucks"
Going to get educated and do the rear myself, maybe ill be on your level one day doing brakes for others
Maybe practice on other peoples cars first and if they survive, then you can do your own?
I always start out with great intentions to do the bleeder valve tip, but have now 100% of the time skipped it. too lazy for that extra step.
I never thought to clean the hub like I spray it down with brake cleaner but I never thought to use a wire brush on it
Eric Prado It’s actually not too hard if you got the right tools that’s important it makes the job 10x more easy with the right tools. Hardest part is getting the car jacked up safely but even that’s easy once you do it a few times
Chris, thank you for some excellent tips. You made my day. Starting with tip #1, that one really rocks. I've watched brakes being replaced as well as doing them myself throughout the years. I've never seen anyone turn the wheel for easier access. It's been years since I've done brakes but, today I'll feel like I can tackle them with confidence and ease using all of your tips. That also goes for the tips in the comments your subscribers shared. Thank you all for making my day an easier one. You and your subscribers rock,
Great brake tips! One thing I do every time I inspect or change the brakes is condition the rubber parts. I use silicone spray on hoses, guide pin boots etc to keep them from cracking and failing.
I really like your no-nonsense car fix videos. It's especially helpful when you shove the camera in those hard to see places to show everyone. Keep it up!
+Dennis Chua Thanks a lot! I am glad you are enjoying the videos and like how they are produced!
+ChrisFix We're all impressed and thankful for what you do for us all.Please keep up the impressive work.
ChrisFix helps new car guys out or just people wanting to learn. I appreciate your videos they help out alot. Very informative and with video to show most too.
One of the best automotive tip / repair channels on youtube....clear, concise and with attention to detail.
Well done Chris.
Most important tip: Pump your brakes before you go anywhere ( after brake job is done )
Thanks for the tip!
Should I pump brakes after each brake change? Or once after they are all changed?
After all are changed
then recheck fluid level
@@randynewtoff9350 the blinker fluid?
Another tip I’ve learned through working in the field is to always unscrew the cap of the brake fluid reservoir. It’ll make pushing the piston back a whole lot easier
Marco Gullone Cause it not pressured with the cap off
He released the bleeder valve so he didn’t need to do that but if you’re afraid of getting air in your brake system that’s a great idea the cap on the reservoir
I did this. I used slip joint pliers to get the piston down. No problem. I would much rather the brake fluid reservoir overflow a bit than have to bleed the air. Put some rags around to catch the extra. When you finish you can put the reservoir cap back on, pump the brakes, and if you're lucky the level will come back to near the max level. If over that upper limit you'll have to bring out the turkey baster or similar to siphon a bit off.
This was one tip I was going to add.
Thanks Chris! I've been teaching Auto Technology for 20+ years and this is the best brake video I've seen. These are the things that separate a professional brake job from a shade tree. I emphasize every one of your tips and now my students know I'm not the only one stressing these things. Good production as well.
I Subscribed to your channel. Keep up the good work!
Bill Kitt
Automotive Technology Professor
ASE Master Tech, L1,
Exactly. One reason I started doing my own brakes when I was younger. Shops weren't cleaning parts and greasing pins. Just little simple things that make your brakes function at top efficiency.
Its good not the best. No lubrication added to main boot at the caliper. No discussion of loctite should be added at saddle bolts and caliper bolts. Should wire wheel the bolts as well too bring back too nice clean threads. Anti seize should be applied at all mating surfaces. Caliper too saddle ect. Also behind the rotor that mates too the hub so both surfaces are sealed and one doesn't rust before the other. Also cookie cleaning everything with a compressor beats a wire brush most times unless you can't get into the spots.
@@f3arful top 10 dude.. top 10 :P
I have NEVER cleaned behind the cylinder boot. Great tip. Thanks.
That's why there's good mechanics and there's you.
Javier Fernandez yea right, no one is doing that on a brake job. Your an idiot. There’s cool people in this word then there’s you.
@@pnv8477 yeah people do hate to tell you that
I really liked tip #8. What I usually do when compressing the piston, is just crack the cap on the reservoir so the fluid can go back up without building pressure in there. And for those of you that don't have a brake caliper compressor, just use a C-clamp on the caliper while it is still bolted on.
this can be a problem for vehicles with antilock brakes, pushing the fluid back up the brake lines can damage the antilock module, which is a very expensive component to replace. but, if it's an older vehicle that doesn't have antilock brakes this is what i do and after the calipers are fully retracted, i suck all of the old brake fluid out of the master cylinder and replace it with new fluid before pumping up and bleeding the new brakes.
@@marzsit9833 very unnecessary to change your brake fluid that often
This is a great tip that I never thougt of doing
C clamp is always my go to, just place a socket in the piston hole and press against that so your not clamping the actual surface of the piston to avoid any damage from the clamp :)
Must have watched a dozen brake rotor videos, and yet I still learned something new here, thanks
That’s the goal with my videos! Glad you learned something new!
Great video, Chris. Not a wasted moment or misspoken word. Keep up the good work.
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed the video!
yeah chris is a straight shooter ...luv this guy
Hopelessand Forlorn what I was thinking
Hopelessand Forlorn awesome
Ulpdn lot
H
Chris you make me feel like I can fix anythingcar related!! Thank you so much for all your videos.😁
When you’ve watch this video a few days after you just changed brakes and rotors. 😂 great share.
Mike Swizzy yes same here lol
Exactly
@@millhouse313 lol
Exactly the same here lol
Same 😂 and I’m a mechanic.
I've always been a little intimated of doing my own brakes. But after watching this vid, I'm gonna give it a go!
How did it go?
@@s0la.scr1ptura he died in accident, cuz his brakes did not work
Read tip 11
also remember to pump the brake pedal a couple of times to bring the pedal up before driving
+Mark Quigley Great tip!
When I was about 16 yrs old I almost took off my car door backing out of the garage after changing my brakes for the first time. LOL Much easier and cheaper to learn from someone else's mistakes!
First time I did front discs, pumped the brakes - all good. Realized I was late to pick my gf up from work, slammed it in reverse, slammed it in to a wall!
Learning - its what we do.
Same ive done breaks many times before i was in a rush to pick up my gf back up thankfully no one was behind and manage to pull the e brakes
+Will Walsh wait so the problem wasn't that you didn't pump the brakes? you meant to put it in Drive I'm assuming? haha
My only tip to add to this is to use an impact socket when using an impact wrench. I've seen a number of people break chrome sockets on an impact. That can be pretty dangerous. Not only can things go flying, the broken socket can be very sharp.
RickMakes I broke a phillips head bit with an impact socket wrench when I was trying so hard to get a seized screw off my rotor on my old Civic. It wouldn't come loose and I kept on trying then the bit snapped.
RickMakes why do you change the router too?
Paul P Jr probably because you were using a phillips screwdriver on a Japanese industry standard screw
Ribeye Robert D no just makes you dumb for doing something that doesn’t work obviously
My car is 20 years old now. The rear caliper bolts are dead stickly, i can't release them at all . I need an impact power wrench.
Tip11: Never pump out the caliper piston too far whilst cleaning the rubber boot otherwise it'll cause brake fluid to leak or the piston to drop off completely causing you to spend hours trying to get the piston and rubber boot back into the caliper as well as re-bleeding the brake system to get the air lock out of the master clinder...and don't ask me how I know all that😳😳
Dude facts and bleeding takes longer then expected lollol
is ceramic brake grease ok for the guide pins? or strictly silicon
@@Itsyunlo
I use bendix brake grease sold in those small packets you get from your auto stores...they cost about $2.50...one packets does two calipers.
Ceramasil Brake Parts Lubricant
@@williamb8479 I used permatex silicon ceramic grease for the hardware and back of pads a bit. then permatex silicon-only for caliper guide pins and what not
I love the fact that you can guess the tone of the "Hey guys, ChrisFix here" just by looking at the age of the video
As always Chris, this is an excellent video, (just like all the others you’ve made that I’ve
watched). The video is an education in itself. One tip that may be useful; it’s
always difficult to keep the pad material clean when handling brake grease, so I
cover the friction surfaces with masking tape until I’m ready to fit the pads
to the caliper. This helps to keep the pads grease and dirt free.
Based on my personal experience and failures: Always use a torque wrench to go over all the bolts before re-installing the tire. My worse experience was forgetting to tighten one of the bolts on the caliper mounts. Good thing the one bolt that I DID tighten held off for a good half a mile to where I could stop to investigate what happened. I will never make the same mistake again. It could have resulted in a bad accident but thank God it didn't. Also as described by this video, using the proper lubrication for the guide pins is a must. I've had bad experiences where a 'professional' mechanic failed to use the proper full synthetic silicon lubricant. It caused the rubber boot to swell up and seize up the guide pin. I had a hell of a time trying to get it out. Great video, Chris!
Thanks And thanks for sharing your tips. Funny enough, lay weeks video was all about how to use and take care of your torque wrench.
+Geir Slotsvik 10 years aircraft avionics and A&P fighter jets, heavies, and currently on helos. Even professionals get too relax sometimes and slip one through the crack. I'm an amateur when it comes to cars but I apply the same principles when I do my own car repairs and preventative maintenance. I ain't perfect, but I learn from my mistakes and those of others. I still rely on manuals for specifics like torque values and measurements. Never stop learning is the best advice I've gotten from my superiors. 20 years experience is great although i wouldn't rely fully on torque by feel in my area of work. Kudos!
#11 loosen the Master cylinder cap. This released pressure on the entire system, and serves as a back up if you use the caliper bleeder. Or if you don't want or can't loosen the bleeders, this reduced pressure allows the piston to go in easier and avoid straining or damaging the anti lock system.
Great tips, I have been doing my brakes for 50 years and learned a few good tips here. Thanks 👍🏻.
Best Brake job video I've ever seen, PERIOD !!!
+kicksoffs Thanks a lot!
No prob brother.
I used to hang my calipers from a bungee cord, now I turn a 5-gal. bucket upside down and rest them on the bucket. Easier and quicker.
Wish I saw this last week lol
U cant clean all sides
Ron Suttle I have a few pieces of hanger wire to hang the caliper. I keep them in my brake tool box
I just place them up on the strut spring they stay fine there
thanks for the tip.
I like trying to work on my car when I am able to do the job myself, these are fabulous tips. Thank you!
Great tips Mr. ChrisFix! You are clear and concise with your audio & video and right to the point for us "DIY's". So there I am with my arsenal of tools at hand with you streaming on my laptop again last weekend replacing my daughters drum brakes.......although I had to pause your video dozens of times I still knocked the job out (and still had time to watch some football)! You have saved me a TON of money while making me look like I actually know what I am doing! Many thanks from balmy Las Vegas, Nevada. Regards, D. Scott
My top tips. Don't handle the pads with dirty hands. Don't touch the friction material face at all if you can help it. Put grease on anything that rubs together, silicone if its protected with a rubber boot, lug nut torque is important and too much will warp your new rotors, and do not forget to break you pads in.
these are awesome and should be kept at top of comment rack.
All awesome tips. The biggest debated thing seems to be whether or not to properly bed in brakes
what do you do to break in the new pads?
@@lifeisgood070 well... You brake..
@@nojustumasbacauskas7175 ur tip stay on top of it there is a coat hanger calliper bungi and a spray the metal clips to not over exceed brake pad fitments and unlike cleaner any parts can be done as a dirt check or spray but the bleeding bit fluid contaminated come out on the wheel is thought ans this were after locating where the greese got into from another rubber isolator and lucky the wheel stays on as well as the tyre
Well done and very informative. Thank you for not putting any music in the background.
I've done a fair few brake jobs but some of these tips are definatley overlooked yet helpful. Great video 👍
My top tip is quadruple check and make sure your pads aren’t put on backwards I’ve heard stories of professionals doing it and it’s especially important to know you’re doing it right when you’re starting out because we’re all human
Chris, as usual, brilliant. what about a video on how to add aftermarket DRL's or parking sensors???
+juman islam Thanks and awesome suggestion! I will add it to the list!
Brilliant! Looking forward
get som ole skool gansta curb finders. haha.
+ChrisFix Chris you are the best 👍
Also when you finish any brake job pump the pedal and make sure it gets firm. This is so you don't get any surprises when your driving away for the first time!
+Zed Man haha, good tip!
Have a long breaker bar and impact wrench handy especially in the rust belt states. Did my brakes today for the first time and everything went well except for some stubborn caliper bracket bolts. Your videos really help.
I need to change my rotors. I've done it several times. This is a great video. Thanks for the tips!
Good tips bro! However, please also consider adding more tips to deal with heavy rust build up in practically all stationary metal-to-metal contact points. For example, all around the brake pads, underneath the thin metal shims/clips, between the caliper and its mounting bracket, etc. Newbies find it hard to remove various components simply because they just don't know what's normal and what's not in terms of movement between various parts. Rust causes so much binding in relatively short period that it often requires repeated but gentle hammering to remove the caliper assembly and its mounting bracket from the rotors. Newbies don't always know that it's OK to hammer them out gently. Also, the wire brush is not always sufficient to remove the rust. Hard scraping using a flat-head screwdriver or a dremmel rotory brush/grinder, sandpaper or even a file may be necessary depending on where people live. Rust might not be a big problem in dry/desert states, but it's a huge issue in states with even modest annual rain or snow fall.
if you live in the rust belt or anywhere where they salt the roads in winter you will never have a solution to rust. common aluminum-based anti-seize compound actually makes the rust worse due to galvanic corrosion, the only anti-seize that works in this situation is nickel-based, which is hard to find and more expensive but worth the cost.
Truly a great video. Solid tips and efficient delivery. I think the bleed part is likely out of many's desire to do but still good to add that as a tip.
Chris, well done. You mentioned some tips I over looked, and so simple and no brainers. Thanks Chris.
There's something soothing about Chris' calmer voice in his earlier videos. The new videos are great, make no mistake. But there's a feeling of 'old-friend-just-helping-you-fix-your-car' type of vibe with Chris' old vid.
Great tips Chris! Thought I'd mention one more important reason to crack the nipple and let out brake fluid when pushing the piston back - when you push fluid up and back to the master cylinder you can damage seals and control valves $$ especially on older vehicles as the seals start deteriorating with age.
I always appreciate your videos Chris!
One thing I encountered on my very first break job was threaded holes in the face of the rotor near the lug holes - insert a couple bolts and tighten them a half turn or so alternating between the two and it pops that rust weld in a flash without a hammer getting involved!
Thanks for sharing! Thanks a lot!
ChrisFix
Idea: what about a video on air tools. I always appreciate your approach of using common handtools. But if a guy wanted to invest in some air tools, what would you recommend?
Maybe some info on like air pressure, common socket sizes to get etc. Thanks!
Am glad to come across this one a day prior to me tackling the brakes on my car. Did this on my motorcycle multiple times but, it is a first go on the car. Thanks for all your efforts. Greatly appreciated.
All I learned from past brake jobs on my motorcycle n cars are summed up here. Thank you for these tips, indispensable!!!
Hey Chris, your videos are awesome! I love how you get to the point, it's well structured and also I like how you say "consider subscribing" instead of "make sure to subscribe"
I always clean and grease the caliper or bracket that holds the pads where the edges of the pad slide toward the rotor when braking
after watching this video a dozen times in preparation for my first diy brake change next week, i FINALLY understood tip number eight. i don’t know why i was so afraid of it!! now i get it, consider it done!!
Chris, I agree with every aspect of this video with two exceptions.
Factory trained VW/Porsche/ Audi tech, aerospace/racing fabricator and crew chief of several regional SCCA class winners.
1) Something I see time and time again on CZcams brake repl. videos it seems virtually everyone insists of replacing the rotors at every brake pad change?? WHY??? If not excessively worn beyond the factory thickness specs, (often found stamped on OEM rotors) nor is warpage/runout beyond spec, (checked with a dial indicator,) why is everyone suggesting rotor replacement during routine pad replacement???
What ever happened to turning the rotors on a brake lathe?? If final cut is within thickness specs and no runout, reinstall. What are shops now to do with that expensive AMMCO brake lathe?? This has worked well for decades, why not now??
Most all of the aftermarket rotors are made overseas of inferior materials. Example...On a track record setting SCCA A Sedan class car using Corvette rotors/calipers, the hard abrasive pads used on track eat away at the rotors. Checking/finding now undersized one race weekend, purchased a set of supposed 'Corvette' rotors from local car parts store. Cleaned/scuffed with abrasive. After just one practice session after properly bedding in new pads, the rotors had extreme heat stress cracking throughout and 0.025+ runout both sides. Very, very dangerous!!! Removed, reinstalled the OEM rotors to finish the weekend.
PS: Driver complained of brake pedal pulsation, clear indicator of warped rotors.
2) Something forgotten by so many including this video is procedure to properly bed in a new set of pads, especially important if also installing new rotors. If NOT done, pads will heat glaze, reducing the stopping ability and a major cause of brake squeal. Brakes will last longer, work better and reduce noise.
Perhaps best as a stand alone video linked to this one??
we can't thank you enough for your videos so like always a BIG LIKE FOR THIS ONE
+Jose Rubiera Awesome! Glad the video was helpful!
Super wonderful help when I was here with my talents so thank you for the help
Best regards from Denmark / Funen
Great tips, I'd add get rubber covers for the bleed screw and change them every time you do your discs/rotors as the rubber can wear away. Covers protect the brake bleed screws from seizing and corroding.
thank a lot brother, I've learnt a lot from your chanel alone. keep up the great work
Awesome tips...took me 20 years to learn what you cover in a few minutes!
I had no idea about the dust behind the boot! Thanks Chris!
+DE Nichols Glad you learned something new!
Just subscribed after several hours of binge watching lol Will certainly consider joining as well. Appreciate you're straight forward approach knowing your subscribers have the basic idea. I started wrenching 40 years ago, starting with bicycle's, lawn mowers, Mopeds. Cars trucks houses. Didn't have instruction other than who you knew and printed shop manuals, often covering many years with different options. Helps to see a slightly different approach that is well demonstrated. Owned many Rangers. 2.3 Lima, 2.3 duratec to over 300k. Rusted frames the death nell. My son and I are close and he was raised on Fox bodies, F series and Rangers. He's Navy, stationed in JAX with a nice 2010 Ranger 4x4, 4.0 5spd, badass 05 GT 4.6 and just picked up a 95 del sol Honda as a daily gas sipper. Still have my 89 LX 5.0 vert I bought in '94. Father son '90 hatch 2.3 turbo swap that runs part time. The daily is a 2010 2.3 auto RWD Ranger. Solid at 168K. Old City of Columbus (Ohio) fleet truck I will be installing front hub/rotor, wheel bearings, rear discs/pads with a rust storm in hopes of salvaging calipers/brackets. Too much information, but wanted say that I don't subscribe to very many you tube feeds. Keep on brother !!!
Thanks to you Chris I changed my rotors and pads for the first time, next it's the rear drum brakes complete as per your video .
Thats awesome! I'm sure everything went well!
Hey! It went very well, 2 1/2 hours first side going really sloooooooooowly I hour second side! I love fixing stuff but I usually go to garage, fronts done for £63.00 discs and pads, last time I paid £250. I'm told I can fix anything but I had no confidence on fixing the van or car so I can't thank you enough. No wonder you have so many subscribers! 6,000,000!
That video where you got your mum her dream car, it blew me away! You must be up there with the nicest person on CZcams rating if there is such a thing, along with Mark Rober if I may say, although why he's hanging about with some college kid drop out Bill gates I think his name is I don't know.
Another fine example of how the Internet is a force for good.
Best wishes from Broxburn Central Scotland. David
Thanks for all the awesome videos, Chris. You've helped me gain the confidence, and in turn, the experience, needed to do my own auto repairs.
Thanks for all the good advice
Great tips. I wouldn't have known to do any if those ten tips. Thanks for putting the time in to teach folks. 👍
This is the best video I have seen. I put the silicone grease on the piston and the piston boot too . I also put it on the slide area of the caliper and the caliper bracket . I have been doing this for 20 plus years now . I do like the tip on the brake fluid . Two thumbs up !!!
spent an hour beating the shit out the rotor from different angles when changing my rear brakes, without anything happening. took the handbreak off and 30 seconds later it came off easy..
james smalling lol this just happened to me
james smalling I had the same problem, my rotors wouldn't come off after a beating. luckily I saw on CZcams, that there are two m8 screw holes which when you put in two screws, it breaks the rotor off
According to another CZcamsr named ElectroBOOM:
You learn by experience if you experience what you learn more often.
alex seppala you can see the screws. It should be pretty obvious
love u bro
Great tips. Thanks! I've started using ZEP products because of your videos. Great stuff.
+SyberPrepper Thanks and awesome! I really like a lot of their stuff and that brake cleaner works great! What have you tried and do you like it?
+ChrisFix I've tried the Zep 40 Spray glass cleaner and really like it. Seems like a luxury in a way but it works so much better than Windex or the like.
Awesome and very useful tips. Thank you for these. I've learned from these and I've also shared this video on Facebook for others to learn these, as well.
Love tip 8- never did that One before - great idea. Great video thanks!
Thanks Chris. I've changed brakes before and have been told that I'm paranoid for constantly spraying down brake parts during installation. Good to know my instincts were right!
No prob! Glad you got some reassurance!
Remember, just because you're paranoid doesn't mean they aren't out to getcha.
These videos are awesome. Swear by them!
+Alex Kersten Thanks Alex! Glad you like the videos! Im loving the articles you do on the MX5... So much so that I am looking to get one now!
Hi Chris, i did change rear brake pads for my Nissan Qashqai after i watched your video many times. now i am very confident to do it myself. My next project is to change brake rotter. Many thanks for details guides. from UK
All things I've heard to do and always forget. We'll save this video for next time. You explained it perfect.
Hey Chris thanks for another great vid I am learning a lot off of you and you got my sub for sure.
Cheeky request, could you do a video on how to troubleshoot all the different brake noises you can get and what they could mean or how to stop or prevent them etc? I am going to go and check my brakes now because I heard some squealing yesterday and I thought it was just dust or a stone caught in the rotor but it might be the bear wear indicator. I am confused though because the noise lasted for maybe 15 mins and it depended on steering and changed with how much brake used but was almost always there and then stopped. Any suggestion welcome btw
Great tip. Like to put a dab of brake lube on the hold down clips. Also I open the brake fluid cap,before I press the pistons in. Great video.
+tubejim101 Thanks! That is a good tip!
I throw a rag over the cap and under the reservoir. If you topped up the reservoir before doing a brake job, that extra fluid will leak out all over everything. Now would be a good time to use a turkey baster and change the fluid in the Reservoir also. I do it at every brake job.
Thanks man that's some really helpful tips that would normally be overlooked or not thought, thanks
Chris fix is always my go to for quick knowledge when I’m working on my car
bleeder valve tip was awesome to learn. thanks, and keep up the good work!
Glad you learned something new!
An added advantage to releasing pressure at the bleeder screw is to avoid back-pressure on the brake proportioner. Supposedly that can potentially damage valves in that unit and cause it to malfunction.
One of my top fifteen is to slightly loosen the lug nuts just a turn or two, called "breaking", while the wheels are still on the ground. This way, when the car is up on the jack stands, getting the lug nuts off is a heck of lot easier. Another tip is too tape off, prime and paint the bare hub of the rotor, the part of course that doesn't come in contact with the pads. I also get off any rust and prime and paint the hub but that's just me. I hate rust.
+Jesse Parris Thanks for your tips!
Informative, like always. Thanks, Chris!
These are some great tips! I'm about to do the front brakes, and I'm glad I found your video!
This video is just great. Thanks for the tips Chris!
+Emmanuel Morales Awesome! Glad you like the video and tips!
I can't believe I never thought of turning the wheel xd I busted my hands up so many times xd thanks for that tip :)
SUBSCRIBED!!!
Thank you for those tips mate - seemingly obvious and yet overlooked constantly - legend.....cheers.
Excelente video Chris Fix, gracias por compartir, saludos.
Opening the bleeder valve while compressing the pistons is an awesome idea! Saves having to bleed them all the time (especially when you track a car a lot).
BTW, use a wire wheel on a drill to get all the rust off the hub. It's faster and far better than a manual brush. Just an FYI.
True i also think chris uses more simple hand tools so that his watchers don't feel intimidated needing to spend 100s of dollars on power tools. Although you can totally use them like you suggested
I hope my mechanic does all this when doing my brakes and rotors lol
Save a ton of money by doing it your self and know its been done right.
Jose De La Cruz you know they don't. They do as little as possible while charging you as much as possible. People nowadays take no pride in their work.
@@SteveSabbai people cut corners with everything not only cars but anything we buy or use. Its terrible.
Good luck!
Good clear video with understandable descriptions and explanations. You always do a super job.
Doing my brakes today, just wanted a refresh, good tip I find been doing for years and why I don’t like having a shop do it, is far to often I see pros not using gloves just bare hands handling the new pads esspecially and have seen some won’t name on youtube exposed manhandle the new rotors, hands also have natural oils in them no matter how clean they are, so they actually contaminate the new pads and rotors, using gloves like you have on says allot, props for that and great tips picked up a couple re the silicone grease nice, cheers.
Except the way he sprayed brakleen at the end without wiping the rotors according the pads the definitely would contaminate the pads.
Nice. Great video. Seems so simple... First time I did this, years ago, I didn't turn the wheel..... Helps a lot!!!
+Patrick Morrissey Thanks bud! Yea, simple things like turning the wheel make the job that much easier!
Do a wheel lug nut re- torque after driving 100 miles.
Fricken Great Video!!! thank you for taking the time to make it.. Keeps us all moving forward for the better!!!
So many tips. Thanks man always learn heaps watching your stuff
here is my tip, if you have dual caliper brakes and your brake compression tool only does one caliper, place one of the old pads back into the rotor and then continue to use the tool as normal.
there are double ended brake caliper compressor. you must have a truck or a high performance car if you have that set up.
Just a 2005 ford falcon, the double ended ones are hard to come by without paying ridiculous prices in Australia.
+Ben Jamin great tip! I always use a brake pad even when it is just one piston because it will evenly compress it.
Tip: dont use a chrome socket on an impact gun
Sometimes impact sockets are too fat, and 99% of the times chrome works just fine .
RIP to my 13mm 💀
@@robertleftwich1122 ...and sometimes you try, split them down the side, and have to go to Sears and _hope_ that you can scavenge up a free replacement before all the meat is picked off the bones of the place.
Don't ask.
You have the best auto repair videos. I use your videos all the time for my DIY auto projects. Keep it up
Just excellent! !! I liked #8, but I'm gonna start doing all of the tips when I do brake jods in the future. Thanks again Chis.