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When I was very young my Dad and Uncle who was a master tech taught me how to do brakes almost exactly like this minus using the blaster and opening the bleeder. I takes time but trust me when I say you will stop on a dime and never have a squeak. Appreciate you sharing the knowlege!

Sherwood as a customer we don't know what we don't know to ask. Back when cars were simple like old VWs or Ramblers a tuneup was plugs, cables maybe a distributor cap, today's cars are so much more complicated and as a customer I am relying on the shop, to be honest and straight with me.

I'm 72 and as a young man, my father told me to never buy a car I can't afford to maintain it. As a customer, I've had some shops that didn't know what they were doing which cost me later when a different shop showed me the problem. When I find a shop I can trust I will be a loyal customer. My 84 prelude is my best example, a shop not knowing how to deal with a carb doing a tuneup, or replacing socks with the wrong ones that caused other issues. I wish there were more folks like Sherwood or Dave in Utah, listening to them lets me know they are trustworthy.

Whats the best programs to use for this information or shop management? I think pro demand has to be one of the best

And if you used the aluminum Porsche bolts on the timing chain cover it’s probably already leaking again. They should be replaced with steel bolts used on the valve cover with a thick aluminum washer to make the seal work. Still $2 each and it adds up.

My biggest pet peeve is at my shop out labor rate is high. It’s$195 and we charge so much but a lot of the parts we use are always bottom of the barrel parts. Example being on all vw products that have the 2 upper control arms with the one bolt that holds them both to the knuckle and the and 2 lower arms also all test. And they get us Dorman replacement parts always that by the time everything jt torqued and car is test driven are already torn again. And various scenarios where technicians never have a say on the parts we get and that gets very frustrating

The other concern I hv on this is sone bolts need replaced for wheel hubs, Napa sells hub but no bolts, I think if ur going to sell a 200. Hub include the bolts, and they don't carry them, hv to source from dealer, but I've been pissed for years over this content.

I don’t understand why anyone would even want to take the chance of reusing a torque to yield bolt. The word YIELD should scare the crap out of anyone thinking about it. That means you torque the bolt until it starts to give and stretch. It gets taken loose and it goes straight in the trash can so it doesn’t accidentally go in the bolt bin. If the torque specs include a degree then you can bet it’s a TTY bolt.

Here's my opinion I agree to all ur sayn BUT you tube creators getting paid for views or subscribes, but there teaching pple the wrong way, and you tube shld pull there videos, even locktite they aren't using when shld be used, how can you tube pay to potentially create a saftey concern,

its so overlooked in general. fasteners, c-clips etc. at my last shop i had to fight to get new hardware for certain jobs, mostly it was common jobs where the bolts would wear or corrode and it was like pulling nails!

Guy drives a Porsche Macan and he's gotten a reasonable estimate from you guys and he wants to complaing about paying an additional $700 dollars for bolts? Dude shouldn't be even driving a Porsche. Maybe you guys can just quote like an extra thousand higher on estimates for these cars. If he says no then just say goodbye!

don’t mind me over here reusing Torque to yield head bolts daily on LS & Hemi Cam & lifter jobs with no issues. Yes I know it’s wrong 😂

That's why I as a tech write out a detailed parts list with the parts department before I try to sell a job! Then I explain what I found to the writer!

I don't do quotes, I do estimates and I let every client know that the price is subject to change.

I appreciate where you’re coming from but this video is like the old saying the customer is always right absolutely not! I run my shop and I do all sorts of repairs when I come across bolts that need to be replaced, I called the customer and inform them that the price went up. I tell customers also that I understand that they are upset about that, but I did not design this vehicle if they have any issues contact the manufacturer of course I say this nicely. But I refuse to eat any parts due to manufacturer stupidity. We mechanics need to unite and change the way customers think! They have it in their head that we should be perfect all the time every time. I’ve done $15-$17,000 repairs and had to go up an additional 6 to 700 due to unforeseeable things. If Customer have a problem with it they are more than welcome to pick up their vehicle as of right now I’ve had zero customers do that.

I agree with torque to yield and replacement bolts....but some of this BS. I worked on net engines and we didn't have much of this. I still go by the book....but sometimes I wonder?

When I lived in another state, I drove 40 minutes to go to my mechanic. It all came down to the fact the I knew he was honest. HE told me I didn't need work done that I thought I did. He was also always up front about the cost of repairs, even when he knew it would hurt. I'd rather do it once, correctly, than chase problems forever to save a buck or two. Honesty has way more value than I think many people believe it does. Great job guys, once again!

It's sad that as an auto enthusiast, I have to literally interview any owner/manager of a shop where I have to take my vehicle for some kind of service. Yeah, I do +90% of my own stuff, but wheels & tires, transmission internals, and some wiring stuff I have to take to a pro. It's infuriating.

Yup more and more common nowadays, when the Ford brought the Mk 3 Focus RS stateside and the head gasket recall hit. I was surprised on the amount of 1 time use hardware outside of the obvious Headbolts/ARP studs if the customer wanted to upgrade, that Ford called out as discard 1 time use that had to be replaced with new when performing the recall

Ford dealer technician here, we have to replace discarded bolts, gaskets and seal for customer pay, if you don’t get all the bolts, gaskets and seals for the if that job was to come back for a failed part (like transmission and such) ford will want to see the original job if all discarded parts are not on the original repair order Ford will kick that job and the deal ship will have to eat it. I’ve seen them kick a 6.7L diesel engine job for a $2.00 nut

Helps if you have the right tools.😅

Retired electrician here. I used to install and repair standby power/generator systems. Today, we live in a litigious society. There is one thing that will keep you from a lawsuit. Do it by the book. Notate all the work performed exactly. Every part,every torque spec. Invite the customer to watch or review the work. I have no issue with someone over my shoulder. It was my time to educate the client. A very good friend of mine is a product liability attorney. He has told me over and over again that when something goes wrong. It's one of 3 things. 1,Manufacturers defects. 2,Failure to follow the manufacturers' procedures. 3,Operator error, misuse of product. We can control one of the three. The other two. They're not your problem. Sherwood this was a great presentation. I hope many of the things you stated stick in people's minds.

Had an armada in once that requires replacement of caliper cradle bolts. When I called Nissan for the brake parts I asked for the bolts too. They told me they don’t stock them and don’t replace them! lol I couldn’t believe it. Obviously I had to order and wait till next day.

Nice professional job guys! C’mon 90,000!!!

They should be using bolts out of better material so they don't need replaced.

pentastar headbolt is torque to yield and re-usable. has a spec that you measure the bolts and if they are still within limit, can put another stretch on them.

Can tty hardware be replaced with non tty hardware that is multiple use? I know the Porsche Madam timing cover tty bolts break and cause oil leaks. That is why the splash shield has a built in pig mat attached to it. They know it will leak.

In my opinion the torque to yield bolts are a scam. The stuff I own that had torque to yield were all replaced with ARP or grade 8 bolts.

Have you ever heard of or used a load pro?

Very thorough brake job with attention to detail. Many valuable pointers (like the importance of cleaning the hub surface-which can be easily overlooked-I know I have). Overall excellent video.

I can hear Mr. Kost telling you to make a process and procedure for it, at least thats what he always told me LOL but he was right. We hired an estimator / service coordinator someone with tech experience for this and it had some bumps in the road, but man its been HUGE for us on saving time and efficiency for the techs

This is mostly a no-brainer but everyone I work with seems to get it wrong with the quote. All you have to do is read through the repair procedure and list out all the things you need to replace.

Go video and go information thank you guys.

👍 thanks for sharing.

Wise words! A pain or not, it is essential to use the correctly specified bolts. We can be held liable if we don't and there is an issue. Don't want that on our consciences!

I've had to re-use crank bolts. Due to not being available, sometimes you just have to

When I run into one time use bolts that aren't torque to yield, they are usually only one time use because they have thread locker pre-applied to them, cleaning off the old thread locker and applying new thread locker is often a valid option when the bolt isn't damaged. I hate when I get new brake hardware and the bolts have no head markings, in those cases I'd prefer to re-use the factory grade 10.9 bolts and not the unmarked bolts from a $40 brake pad set. The unfortunate truth is that most shop owners aren't going to sit on a brake job for two days while waiting for new bolts to get delivered from the dealer, especially when everything else is in stock at their normal parts supplier. Techs can decide to be more vocal about this issue, but techs that complain too much get fired.

Hey im really curious about what system you use that the technicians use as you stated. Id love to implement a system like this.

Great video. Thanks for the info about scammers, had one trying to scam me today.

I am so glad you guys covered this subject. It is absolutely crucial on any job you do to go through the procedure and be absolutely certain you are replacing all of the fasteners that are supposed to be replaced. You covered it perfectly the why. Manufactures have gone to these types of fasteners to save weight. Was told that by an engineer. One of the subjects that is starting to get a little traction but has not produced too much fruit yet is listing all of the one use and torque yield fasteners at the beginning of the procedure. Example, you are going to remove a transmission to replace a rear main seal. All of the fasteners you need to replace for that repair are listed at the beginning of the procedure. I work at a GM dealer and that is starting to happen in some of the recent service information. However, I have found that often they miss fasteners that have to be removed from different components that require removal before actually removing what you are replacing. As you stated again there is a liability aspect to this if you don't do it. I hope everybody takes to heart what you all have covered here. It is very important. Here is a true story. An example. One of my R&I guys come to me and asked me to take a look at a rear u-joint installation on a 16 Silverado pickup. I wish I had taken a picture of it. The client said after we put a new transfer case in, the driveline developed a snap noise when put in gear. Reverse to drive, park to drive etc. When you looked at the u-joint retainers there was a gap between the u-joint cap and one of the retainers. When you remove the retainers and bolts to remove a drive shaft on any GM light duty pick up truck you are supposed to replace the retainers (some call them straps) and the bolts. They are a one use part. The straps have a specific stretch over the u-joint. I picked that example because I know most do not replace those parts when removing the drive shaft or when doing a u-joint. It was a situation the tech who did the installation did not look up the procedure. I know, I know I can hear it now. I never have replaced those and have never had a problem. Until you do.

Great video. I like that you mention about letting the client know from the beginning if there are going to be extra costs associated with the job such as bolts because a lot of us who are not techs or shops that have been working on vehicles for a long time may not realize that a lot of these newer vehicles require bolt replacement. Back when I started working on vehicles in the 80's, there were not a lot of bolts that I remember that had to be replaced when doing most jobs. Of course, I didn't have access to good service information so maybe that requirement was there, but I just didn't know it. Communication from the beginning is key in keeping a customer happy.

Bolt stretch can be an issue, however some bolts are simply locktite coated and listed as "replace". For the stretched bolts, I replace as needed. For locktite coated fasteners, I clean and reinstall with new locktite. It starts to be completely unreasonable to source bolts that are a week out from the dealer for grinding brakes on a WAITER. I write all my own estimates as a tech, it's my time (unpaid time) sitting on the phone with the unhelpful dealer parts counter who is putting in zero effort to find me hardware.

as far as the having to remove the intake plenum for spark plug replacement. If the quote calls for anything over an hour to replace spark plugs that should be a red flag that other things need to be bought to perform this task. The tech AND the service writer should both be looking up the procedure to ensure everything is added to the ticket that needs to be done to complete the task. The more eyes that get on the ticket the better, not to mark up and try to sell BS, but to cover the shop, the tech, and the service writer to make sure the ticket is wrote up and estimated correctly. But the biggest thing I have noticed is service writers that don't know anything about parts let alone cars themselves. A service writer that doesn't know the difference between a sway bar link and center link should not be a service writer. A service writer that doesn't know the difference between the evaporative emissions system and an evaporator core needs to be fired. ps looking forward to that giveaway. man I want one of those ATS scanners so badly

at the shop i work, the techs write up the estimates including all labor and parts needed for the repairs. that way we get all the parts we need for the job and we choose what brand of parts as well. it takes time tho thats the only downfall. several cars a week say no to repairs and then all that time and effort was for nothing.

even as a tech i like the writer/advisor style videos and like to see more from your son!

Thanks for the video.

Great video. I am DIY for my families (4) Honda vehicles. I have done a lot of work on my 07' Civic Si with 268.5K now...I have a Honda Service Manual and if it says in there replace the bolts, I replace the bolts period. Examples would be replacing rear upper arms, front lower arms. Yes it sucks to pay for OEM bolts of course but there is a reason Honda Engineering is calling out the replacement of these critical sub-frame bolts...

It is generally stated that any bolt .

Torque to yield bolts are rough. A few big warranty companies won't pay for them crazy. Service info literally says discard

Great video. Doesn't All-data list what is required for a job. Are you requiring your techs to put the parts list together?