Proper configuration of clutch packs ford 8.8 posi / trac lok
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- čas přidán 18. 04. 2017
- During a rebuild of my 8.8 Traction Lock rear on my 94 Bronco, I discovered that 1) The rear has been worked on before and 2) it was rebuilt improperly. I'll show you the proper, recommended, configuration of the clutch packs for the Ford 8.8 rear.
I'll also share a great technique for compressing and installing the spring that compresses the clutch packs.
Ford Performance Parts M-4700-B
amzn.to/2otQOnW - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Thanks for showing the measurements. Also for showing how to get the spring back in. Many other videos show neither of those necessary little tidbits. Glad I found this.
spectacular, clear, simple, and too the point !
THANK YOU !!!
A good instructional for sure. Getting ready to do a gear swap and full rear rebuild myself. This is definitely helpful.
Glad I watched this, probably saved me at least a couple headaches!
thanks for sharing this info.
1 thing, makes more sense to run 2 steels up against the spider gear. this stiffens it up where it needs it most, the part hanging off the gear.
Thanks for vid, I have a 1990 Bronco with No LS. I was able to get a compatible 8.8 (H9) LS unit from a 2000 Expedition , for donor. The Ford kit no longer comes with friction Modifier. It now comes in the gear lube.
I bought the Motorsport clutches about 6 months ago and mine came with the friction modifier, you can smell it through the box (and the bottle was not leaking).
I just got a used 31 spline setup just like that...spider gears have really bad wear pattern ...got to get a new set
So if I add thicker shims, will it help lock up both axels better? And, can you add too much shim?
so the shim that's on the end won't allow it to slip? isn't that metal to metal (shim to bearing carrier)?
Doing mine Thursday. Wish me luck
Good luck!
How come I'm using .030" steels and end up with .670" ?
Good information
I have a 2002 Ford Explorer that have had clutch oaks replaced twice ...last time went bad after 10,000 miles....any reason why these keep going bad...it’s bad again
You say your read 0.6535" and that you are 0.0350 over. that can't be right, what is the factory specification? If it is 0.650 then you are 3 1/2 thousandths over. (0.0035) please clarify, thanks
William Lewis You're correct. New spec is 0.6550", and at 0.6535" he's actually 0.0015" under or thin. Good catch.
Which side gets washer with gear that bottoms out on gear. I only have one the came out like that
I'm curious about how many miles can be expected before having to replace these clutches under normal driving conditions. Other than pulling them out and measuring, is there a way to know when they have worn & need replacement? Thanks!
You'll know your rear end needs service when the vehicle vibrates when pulling away from a stop while turning.
Do a burnout lol
Mine has been going bad after 10,000 miles in a 2002 Explorer.....fixed twice ....bad again
Where can I get a new internal spider gear?
What size shims .30.40 or Whats size pls let me know
great video, why did you measure out .6535 on one pack assembly and .6540 on the other? wouldnt they both have to be the same number? just asking because ive never done this before. also, would it be the same configuration on a 2003 8.8 trac loc? thank you
Ideally you want the clutch pack to be about .640 to .645 for stock set up and as thick as .655 for a performance pack. You want them both to be as close (thickness) to each other as can be. 2003 should be the same.
I've come to a conclusion about factory Ford 8.8 trac lock differentials no matter what you do no matter what clutches you use no matter how you stack them or how tight if one wheel is on mud the other one has good traction it might as well be an open differential since first commenting here 5 years ago I've stacked them several different ways including like this video shows and the like factory Ford manual says it just doesn't matter they're junk of course if you're on a good surface they will lay down 2 nice patches of rubber I don't know about the rest of you but I need mine for mud and snow where they're useless BTW my F 150 now has an Auburn and it works so much better like night and Day and that's not a plug for Auburn I figure an Eaton or Yukon would just as good if not better
necesito el video en español si gracias
Is it absolutely necessary to place the S spring. I heard in forums it only benefits when its extremely slippery like mud or rain. Is this true,what would happen if I leave it out. Thnks
Brother if you leave it out you will constantly slip.
I know this because I took out the diff pin and removed the S spring, then I put the dif pin back in to mark the gears with a paint marker.
When it didn't have the s spring I can easily turn the gears by hand. Then with the spring in I couldn't turn them at all.
Which is what we want, zero slippage.
Both my packs measured 0.654, I’m trying spin my spider gears in and then once they get where they’d slip under to get to the hole line up it just stops!! Is that bc my packs are to big? Using 0.35 shim
Ever figure it out? my spiders hit the carrier lip just before the cutout where the spiders sit when trying to spin them in with a .640" pack on each side. I purchased the carrier used and noticed the clutches it had were like new and missing 1 steel plate. The packs I took out measure .550" thick, so the spiders would rotate in and out. Clearly that didn't work, no wear marks on the steels! what a bunch of bullshit, something is amiss with the setup I have, can't figure it out though. But, it looks like I'm not the only person to have this issue with that carrier. Someone clearly took the plate out and said screw it, good enough! LOL
@@MattsRageFitGarage do you have a early or late model rear end? as he mentioned the 80s had a different set up
@@virgilsettles 1999 year model rear end and that carrier was out of a 2000 if I remember right. I wound up with a brand new unit and it was trouble free.
Which shim with gear goes to which side.
I'm in the process of rebuilding an 8.8 trac lok and have tried clutch pack thickness from .655" down to .640" with different thickness shims. I CANNOT get the spider gears in whatsoever. The old clutch packs measured about .550" and were worn, of course they came right out. What gives here? I don't want to pound them in with a plastic hammer, as that doesn't seem right. I am using a standard clutch pack type, not the carbon fiber version.
I’m having the same problem with mine. How did you end up getting it?
@@dominicarnold6609 I threw it in the trash and bought a brand new limited slip unit. Problem solved! haha....
My Trak lok has the shim against the gear, not the carrier.
Yours will wear out the small surface area on the gear and into the steel plate
Grim I know this is an old post but the gear and the steel plates are splined togethering how is it going to wear out what will go wrong with this stack is the shim will spin against the carrier and cause problems like vibrating in a turn
@@insulman100 this is my thought also. I am about to rebuild my 8.8 and I have the same concern. The problem is every video I see people are putting the shim against the housing, that doesn't seem right to me for the reasons you mentioned.
Mine was set up like he's doing his, and wear was not very bad at all.
Putting a friction next to a shim ??? The shim is not splined so that friction is useless on one side.
I know your comment is old but I put the shims as described and after a while I had a ruff differential(like you get by not using the friction modifier ) after inspection I found the shims on both sides were moving and discolored I'm going to try putting the shims between the 2 steels the steels shouldn't move against each other so to me it seems like a good place for the shim.
If I'm wrong somebody please tell me why
@@insulman100 I feel the same way you do. Every video I have seen so far here has the shim against the carrier which seems wrong to me. seems like the best place for the shim is between the two steels.
@@dickdefilade1058 and anyone else that replied to my post after futher inspection of my carrier I found that the carrier is machined for the shim the pocket for the ears of the friction disc is higher than the area for the shim meaning if you put a friction first it would be floating on the ears resulting a lot of play and most likely making a L/S into an open differential however I still haven't figured out why my shims are worn on the side against the carrier
so you didn't wash the carrier and components? What a half assed rebuild!
Where can I get a new internal spider gear?
you cn buy off line any where. call em parts kits. they sell em all types a ways brotha.