2011 F150 Rear Limited Slip Clutch Plate Replacement To Correct Chatter on Slight Turns
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- čas přidán 19. 04. 2021
- This 2011 F150 4x4 exhibits a shudder or chatter on slight turns at low speeds from tge rear limited slip differential. Seems to be worse after a highway run. Has had the fluid in the rear axle replaced and the limited slip additive added a couple of times. Video illustrates how to replace the clutches inside the rear differential case.
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I think I’m heading into this with my 2010 F150, 140000kms, I’ve had it since new, and I’ll keep it till the wheels fall off it. It has a weird shutter! I’ve done the fluid change a couple years ago, and it seemed to help, but it coming back again. Awesome video, Thanks!!
You could try more additive...
AWESOME video!!! thanks for the demonstration
Bellville springs.
I did many of these at the dealership. A bit of a pain to do, even with the factory tools. Nice video
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this was very informative! thank you for making this video! ❤
The Sterling in my excursion does this, but it's a lot more noticeable when giving it throttle through a turn. When i put a trailer behind it, it becomes down right violent where it feels like your running over brand new rumble strips at 70 mph just making a slow turn. I'm thinking about putting a 3rd bottle of friction modifier in it as i changed the fluid already and i don't plan on rebuilding it.
extra friction modifier cant hurt in my opinion. good luck
Same issue/problem, 2008 F150 5.4L3V 4X4. 12 bolts on rear differential cover so I guess that makes it a 9.75. Tags attached to differential cover bolts are too rusted and gone to read. Stop at an intersection and make a left or right turn and the truck shudders. Coast through the turn and make a wide turn with very little throttle and no shudder. I bought the truck used and the differential gear lube looks brand new and no sign of metal inside housing. Thanks for this video. (searched many videos) Now I know what to do/try or have someone else do.
As I stated before I'd recommend to just put tge friction modifier from Ford in the existing gear oil. Go out with the truck and do a dozen figure 8 maneuvers first. It may work.
@@PhillipBailey I used a modifier at Oreillys w no improvement. You mentioned Ford modifier specifically. Do you think the other brands are not as good?
@@robertconrad7528 I only used the Ford stuff because I bought it with the clutch kit from Ford. I've used GM successfully on Fords but I've also had a couple where it didn't work specifically this vehicle for some reason.
I loved the video and it was very helpful. However. The right bearing cap has been rotated 180 degrees. Your marks were on the right cap towards the wheel or to the left. Upon reassembly your rotated the cap 180 so the marks are now on the inside. It probably won't hurt but it would be advisable to put the cap back on in its original rotation witness marks to the right not to the center.
I have the chattering problem and I believe because of your showing me the clutch/slip plates and the condition they are in I have to have mine replaced. When I was younger I would do this and have set up rear ends for my 57 chevy. I did not have limited slip which was immensely simpler.
Thank you very much.
Maximus
Boy you guys have good eyes. I caught it as I was about to put the cover on and switched it off camera. Thanks for the comment 👍
@@PhillipBailey No problem I know what it takes to make movies and it ain't easy. My hat is off to you my friend and keep up the good work.
Thanks a Million
Maximus
Hey mate.
2001 4.2ltr F250
Just rebuilt the diff went to drive off had the same clunk occurring when cornering only. Can clutch plates when new need a wear in period? Could they clunk still because the plates are too tight and need a drive to stop clunking? Or should we take carrier out and check it all again?
Cheers mate
Did you add the Ford friction modifier to the fluid. Are you using 75W140 synthetic gear oil. If not put in the additive and drive it in circles to work the fluid ito the clutch plates.
Phillip, AWESOME work so you figured this problem chatter on slight turns based on ur experience or some thing else and is this a common problem with those trucks and what cause this to happen may be lack of maintenance as always enjoyable to watch brother. cheeeers
It's actually quite common on most limited slip differential designs. Usually the friction modifier in the fluid fixes this after you do a bunch of figure 8s in the parking lot. This has been tried a couple times with no improvement. Extended high speed driving tends to agrivate the condition as the fluid gets thrown out of the clutches due to centrifugal forces. There is a bulletin on this from Ford and they recommend the clutch replacement. Feels like a moan or shudder driving slowly and turning slightly as that's when the clutches have to slip.
@@PhillipBailey thank you for great explanation and info really appreciated brother.
Got 2011 Ford F154 by 4 the same thing that your videos talking about I was wondering if I keep driving it but not really hard really smooth will it last a little while until I get them clutches or will it bust the rear End
I'd try adding two bottles of Ford friction modifier to the rear axle then go to a parking lot and drive in tight circles several minutes in each direction. It may help. If its clutch chatter it is just annoying but should not hurt anything in my opinion. Good luck
I have a similar issue in a 2011 f150 as well but the shudder only occurs at take off speeds. Could this be the same fix?
Pay ver close attention to whether you are turning ever so slightly. It may also be a worn or seized universal joint. If that has the two piece rear driveshaft inspect the hanger bearing and it's mount. The clutch Chatter will only happen on slight turns not going in a straight line. Hope this helps you.
Hello.
Thanks for the video.
Would you happen to know the lock bolt pin's part number?
E5TZ-4241-B is the Ford number.
@@PhillipBailey Thanks man!
I was pleasantly surprised to see that it was included in the clutch pack kit.
Hi, my 2010 F150 has this exact issue of shuddering/groaning on turns from a standstill. I have a bit of a strange question - Im not sure how much life the truck has left in it and I'm considering just leaving it and NOT fixing this. If these plates are super worn and left in there - would it cause other issues? Thanks
In my opinion it's just annoying but won't hurt anything. Just drive it.
@@PhillipBailey OK great. Thanks for the reply!
yea i have an 05 fx4 with same issue, had it for years and hasnt hurt anything yet, not gonna spend the money when just use it around my land and to pull occasionally, i figured it would get worse through the years but its actually just random and not every turn, slow or fast
I bought a rear end with only 55k miles but been sitting , I put it in and it’s making that noise when I turn slow , will they eventually work them selfs back in ? I also added additive when I put fluid in it
Try driving in circles in a parking lot till you get dizzy. That usually works in the additive. Try a second bottle of genuine Ford additive as well.
Would you answer a question for me. I purchased the oil and the friction modifier 10 years ago and have had it sitting in my garage, would that oil in friction modifier still be good as it's still unsealed. Thanks for the video and your time.
I would say it would be fine to use. I'm not aware of it having a shelf life.
@@PhillipBaileythanks again for answering and your time have a nice evening
bearing cap on the right was re installed upside down compared to when you stamped it before you took it off
very good eyes... I did catch that and fix it off camera.
I have a 2001 blazer LT, 4 wheel drive. When I put the car in reverse and turn the wheel all the way, either left or right the car shakes. I was told it's the clutch. The guy said bring it in and he would change the fluid and put an additive in it. How much would you charge to fix it like the one you're working on in your video?
That truck does not use a limited slip differential design like the Ford here. It should have a locking differential system. Check your RPO code on the list of codes in you glove box. Locking differential is a G80 code if I remember. With the governor type locking differential it does not lock up the clutch plates until one rear wheel spins. So unless someone has changed out the gov lock system for a limited slip design you should bot have this problem. As to what it could be causing the sensation I've seen the parking brake shoes inside the rear rotors fall apart and cause weird grabbing sometimes only in reverse. Hope this helps you.
@@PhillipBailey Thank you so much for taking the time to reply. I talked to him today and he said he wouldn't know anything until he pulled the plate of the rear and looked at it. I will mention what you said about the rear rotors as well. Again, thank you Phillip, I really appreciate it 🙂
You marked the caps with center punch on the outer but reinstall them with the center punch marks on the inside of cap. What was the point?
Wow talk about eagle eyes. You caught that. Yes I installed them wrong at first but didn't mention it. Good catch...
If you pull the whole differential out is there an issue with it going back in in the shims could it possibly be off on the dimensions between the ring and pinion.
Don't mix them up side to side.
Thanks for getting back to me. Other than that there shouldn't be any issues that correct.
Question.....I have a 2011 f150 stx that is making a slight scrubbing/winding noise and a transmission shop is telling me it could be the pinion bearing...... does that sound familiar not sure if the plates have been replaced. bought truck used. The truck has 199,600 miles.
There are lots of possible causes for noises from the rear. The pinion bearings would typically howl getting louder the faster you go. Clutch chatter only occurs at low speeds on a slight turn. There is also a hanger bearing on the drive shaft that can make noise like a hum or howl again that gets louder as you go faster.
@@PhillipBailey no chatter at slow speeds or while turning....but the noise is a howling sound and it does get a little louder as your speed increases. My buddy is selling this truck for $6500 with 200k miles, not sure if i want to spend another 2k to get the rear end fixed. It's also going to need the transfer case shift motor and also has a oil leak towards the back of the oil pan... not sure if that its the oil pan or rear main seal. I think it is just not worth going down that rabbit whole, maybe if I could get it for $3500 or $4k.
@@TheGregWallace it adds up fast. What is the condition of the body?
@@PhillipBailey The body, paint and interior are perfect, has the rubber floor. No kids or wife, he is the only one who has driven it. Silver in color. No rust, the under side looks better than some cars that are only a few years old. 2001 f150 stx. It also needs a windshield, has a few cracks, it is the original windshield. Rides good and tight. Unless I could get it for around 4500 may not be worth the trouble and possible other unforeseen issues.
I have a E axel clip. How do you remove it?
If you mean the C lock axle clip you remove the small pinion pin bolt, pull the pinion pin out 2/3 of the way, enough to push the axle inboard. The brake components have to be removed obviously. Turn the C lock with a magnet and then pull it out through the opening. Once both axles are removed push the pinion pin back into place and temporarily reinstall the retaining bolt. Need to replace that bolt and loctight it when reassembling.
I haven't watched the full video, but does the front differential suffer from the same problem?
No sir there are no clutches in the front differential since that would tend to interfere with steering control. Most 4x4 front differentials are simple open design. Some with severe offroad packages such as Jeep Rubicons use an electric locker in the front and rear. There are aftermarket kits you can get to put a locker in the front though.
@@PhillipBailey Ok thank you. I'm getting ready to do this job myself and wanted to make sure the front was ok. What would you say the final price would be if I do it myself?
I went to my local Firestone and they told me $6000
@@aco2518 for %6000 Id come there and do it for you. Genuine Ford parts is the way to go in my opinion and the parts will run around $400.00 Canadian Eh. Labor is between 4 and 5 hours. The rear brakes have to come apart and off to remove the axles so you may end up doing brake repairs as well. Good luck.
Hey there Phillip,
Love the video! It is very helpful. I have found clutch replacements online for my F150 but I can't seem to find a replacement "pinion pin lock bolt" you remove at 3:50. Do you know the exact name of the bolt? Or maybe the part number? I have found a few pinion pins online but I'm not sure if they are the correct part.
Thanks for everything!
www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts/ford-pin_e5tz-4241-b.html here you go.
Question? What if it’s still doing the same after the clutches been changed! What when wrong!
Not sure. Did you use Ford parts and additive? What gear oil did you use? It calls for 75w140 synthetic. I used Valvoline and the Ford additive.
It's recommended to deep clutches overnight on additive fluid . It will prevent the chatter on new clutches. Nothing is grong, it will go away eventually, if you got all your clearances right.
Did you not check back lash and tooth pattern?
I checked backlash but since it's solid shims and I didn't mix them up and did not change bearings or crown and pinion it would not change so no I didn't check the pattern...
And you didn’t have any problems when you drove it?
@@larryrobinson7268 no sir truck is fine. Again I did not disturb backlash or change any parts that would affect the tooth contact pattern so that's why I didn't check it. I know the history on the truck as well. If I had replaced the carrier bearings or crown and pinion then I would have done the tooth contact pattern for sure. Hope this helps
I have a chatter in my axle but it's only happening on take off
It should not do it unless you are turning slightly
Ugh, I think that I screwed it up.
When trying to get the center section back into the rear end both shims fell out and rolled together.
I'm thinking that if I just try in any order with the two shims the the back lash will be good or noticeably off as in too tight or two much play. There are two wide white marks on one shim and three yellow stripes on the other shim. I see zero marks on the bearing caps.
Lifting that center section into place and placing the shims is a major pain while working on jack stands.
Try measuring the two shims and start with the thinner shim on the left side. Put the shim in the case and install the carrier with the side bearings into the case. Install the left bearing cap snug but not torqued. Use a standard screw driver to push the case and right bearing race to the left. Install the right shim and tap it into place carefully with a hammer and an installer. I use a piece of 3/16* x 1.5" flat bar ground to a concave to match the shim circumference. The shims are cast iron and will break if hit too hard or the force is not spread out on the shim. Install the right cap. Torque the cap bolts and check the backlash. If its excessive switch the shims side to side. You got a 50% chance of getting it correct on the first try. Good luck
Thanks very much for your video and your help. Should it take a good bit hammering on the right side shim to get it to seat? It feels like it's hitting a hard stop. And I hear you on the cast iron shim. I'm surprised how difficult it is to reinstalling the center section. The spider gears weren't hard at all once I set the all-thread tool to the highest pressure while still being able to turn the center section. I thought that was going to be the hard part.
@michaelvadney5803 sometimes the bearing race is not completely seated and square. It does take a bit to tap in the shim though. Did you replace the side bearings?
No, I did not change out the bearings. Just the clutch pack.
So you wrote earlier that I should install the left shim, bearing races, and the carrier. Then bolt on the left bearing cap on, tighten, but not torque it down and then go to install the right shim after prying the carrier and the bearing race in order to get some room for the right shim, correct?
@michaelvadney5803 yes that usually works but sometimes the casting in the housing has a sharp edge that catches the shim on the housing side so another option is to pull the case out about 1/4" on both sides. Obviously you have to leave the left cap very loose to do this. Technically you are supposed to be using a case spreader but I've never used it with one piece shims.
Your cap is backwards where you put punch marks on it.
Yes I know I caught it afterwards. You have sharp eyes!
Part number?
12:15 in video I show the part numbers
Bad differentials with junk parts from strealing drum breaks were from dana nerver had issues with dana differential
Also why put factory parts im thinking aftermarket
@@Jackson-hx6fr they are updated factory parts
It is possible to replace then with the cage in the diff I have done it with my dad but way easier to do it out
If you're asking if you can change the clutch plates without removing the case the answer is no. You can get them out but you will never get them back in. The beveled washers have to be compressed.
@@PhillipBailey and I’m telling you it can be done but not easy and not worth doing it that way because the way you showed takes way less time. Instead of using a longer piece of ready rod you use a shorter piece and it can be done. That was on an 07 f150 tho. I’m doing it your way now tho
@@PhillipBailey I even just found the original video where I learned to do it while still in the diff that video is 10 years old now
MAYBE CLEAN OFF YOUR BENCH LOL .
Then I would not find anything...