Ford Clutch Pedal Fix, Bushing Eliminator 1987-1997 F150, F250, F350, F450, F550, Bronco
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- čas přidán 14. 08. 2020
- Lots of guys saying that this doesn't work. It clearly does. You just have to have discipline and do it correctly. You can't just cut off the end put on the heim joint, and expect it to work. You will likely run into problems with clearance and the joint will bottom out on the neutral safety switch.
Hope this video helps you all out with the problem that afflicts so many of the OBS style Ford. - Věda a technologie
Thank you so much man for that trick with the pen sleeve to remove the old push rod. I watched about 50 videos asked mechanics all over and no one gave me straight answers as to how to get the push rod out. They said you don't remove it. I said if that's so how come they sell you the whole unit switch plus new push rod? I find people these days are knowlegeless and don't care about helping out their fellow man. I am 71 and have had a slew of cars and worked on all of them mainly because I didn't have money to repair them. So, I thank you so much man you're a true American and benevolent person. God bless you man. This is the best video on youtube bar none on this subject.
My clutch is held together with zip ties right now 😂
I'll be doing this tomorrow. Thanks for the video.
Freaking outstanding dude!
Went through 4 nylon bushings, stranded in the worst times/places. Time to fix it for good.
Excellent video,my man. Concise,no b.s.,exactly whats needed for the home mechanic with no patience and busted knuckles.
Great video. I'm subscribing because of the perfect camera work. Thanks for showing everything so well.
Great video, right to the point. The pen trick to remove the rod is what I needed. Thanks
when you install the rod again do you just push it back in and will it click back into place?
I've never seen anyone organize their wrenches by actual size, rather than one set of metric and one set of SAE. Interesting.
Thanks for the video!
My 89 f150 has been towed to house and sitting for 2 months at least. I assumed I needed New throw out bearing and clutch. Because I can pump pedal with my hand quickly and build up just enough pressure to get in and out of gear to push it around the driveway. If I have to move it. I came across this video 2am in morning doing research on how to replace clutch and everything. I'm gonna check this first in the morning. Even if this is not a fix for me I really appreciate that you took the time to make this video. Very clear and to the point. Thank you much..
Did you get it to work
Best video out there they should use this video as a link that comes with the part
Nice video. My truck is down right now because of this. Doing my research so I can do it myself.
Awesome vid. My 1997 f350 crew cab will grind reverse every time. I seen this video so I decided to look at that bushing and the previous owner had it wired up
Thanks for mentioning how to fix it bottoming out on the neutral safety switch
Mine just snapped tonight 500 miles into a 1100 mile trip. Got it towed to a shop. Now I can tell them what it is maybe and get rolling in the morning.
You did just fine with a "HOW TO" video man! You just helped me out! I'm having the same issue you was! I have a 1994 Ford F150 .302. My plastic clip BS keeps coming off, just again today, and I just replaced a new plastic piece from Oreily's. So.. I will have to do the same thing as you, maybe not with the same materials, but using a bolt and some other parts, now I know how it all comes apart! Thx :)
great job. never would have thought of the sleeve to remove clips
You did great hope to view many more helpful vids in the future
Good clear video and narrative. Thank You
Thank you for this. Very informative!
you did a good job on your video, i have had two trucks where the plastic clip broke, i just used a 3/8" heim joint and a 3/8" NF bolt and nut to fix it, i don't want the neutral safety switch, i like to be able to move my trucks with the starter if i need to, and over my 61 years i have done it countless times.
So basically you were using an electric truck before it was cool
Great job...much appreciated. Thank you
Very stout looking repair, I’d imagine it’ll outlast the rest of the truck. Just happened to me, so I’m gonna have to go ahead and do the same thing
Great video bud. Thanks for doing the leg work.
I love these videos. Takes my mind off this stupid virus 🦠
Clearly a solid permanent solution that should be implemented. Another that has served me is to cut the four nubs off of the plastic grommet, put it on reversed (slick side out), mark & drill a hole through the post holding the M/C shaft, and put a cotter pin through it. This assumes the post is not worn beyond your ability to drill a small hole. The shaft rides smoothly against the cotter pin due to the reversed plastic grommet.
Great tutorial on this issue details are great.
Excellent video, thank you!
Hi, thanks for the info. What kind of BALL POINT PEN did you use for the removal of the push rod from the clutch cylinder? it looks like a bic pen. I need to change my whole pedal assembly and I thought I might do this fix while its apart.
Excellent video! Thanks
Good Fix! What size Allen bolt and Heim joint did you use? Gotta do this to my '96 F150 4X4.
Great video! I am currently broke down in my driveway truck torn apart and to the point I’m trying to get the swing arm off. Any advice on how to pull this part off ?
Sweet information.
Great tip.
excelente video
I had the same problem, like the video
That's awsome but where to get and part #'s do help us out greatly. Please include.
So who has that rod end piece for sale?
Thanks good vídeo
Where can I get repair parts for my 1995 F150? I found the heim joint repair kit at Advance Auto Parts, from having the kit number, and manufacturers information I thought I got from one of your videos, that in the links gave contact info to where you purchase parts from. I just can't find the video of who had that list, or who posted it. With all the great content you post, I thought it was your channel.
Why is my master cylinder rod plastic and everyone else’s it seems are metal? Anyone know? Do I need to get an all metal one to do this fix?
My only comment would be that you should have put the Bolt in the other direction and the nut on the inside location.
I would also have used a Nylock Nut ( No Need for Loctite and removable if necessary.
What size is the heim joint and the Allen bolt ??
How did you remove the swing arm?
part?? location ? where do I purchase them? Where can I get the repair parts for my 1996 F150?
Hi...bro what do you find your tied fit ,i Need some one????
Mine the rod is made out of plastic and that’s what broke we’re did you get the medal one from?
jeff where can get 2
good ider
Where do I get this kit at ?
might have to do this to my '97 f250 HD. I barely made it home. Whats the part number of this heim joint?
Thanks
Amazon it
Obs solutions sells one
How did you get the arm off of the shaft? I tried prying it off with a screwdriver after removing the nut and it wouldn't budge.
Probably too late but they are a pain to get off, keep prying and try to take it off as even as possible. If it’s crooked you won’t get it off. I’ve had to pull a couple pedal assembly’s because of how stuck they get.
Where did you find that particular heim joint I have a similar issue and cannot find that one
I wonder if a Doorman bushing could be used to replace the worn out plastic one ?
Its possible that the nut and lock washer goes on the bracket side not on the heim side then you wouldn't need a flat washer.
Does the push rod just slide right back into place, or do you need the pen tube too reinstall it as well?
How do you get that swing arm off I’m having trouble
same, all these videos have lots of room to work, Mine is behind the clutch bracket, with a permanent wiring harness in the way.
Why can't you just drill a hole through the shaft and put a cotter pin in it to keep the rod bushing from popping off?
The only thing that stopping you, is you. Go for it try it out and let everybody know how it works.
@@DesertJeff I discovered the clutch rod shaft on the clutch lever isn't hardened steel. I marked the shaft with a center punch and used my cordless drill to drill a hole through the shaft near the end of the shaft where the retaining groove was. I cut the 4 retaining fingers off of the new OEM nylon bushing I bought from my local Ford dealer for $1. A thin washer and a hitch pin clip is holding it on now. The hitch pin cost $.39 at Menards and I found the shim washer in my used washer collection. The worst part of the project was getting stabbed in the back by the seat adjuster lever while I was working under the dash. I should have covered it with some kind of padding.
the white bushing in swingarm wallows out too down into the metal! swingarm is pain to get out with brake petal on one side. i miked the bushing, ordered a collared copper bushing amazon and tightened bushing into the worn hole/bushing. maybe the copper will last, otherwise swingarm needs taken out and welded up & install new bushings! FORD-fix or repair daily--ha-ha
You know that's almost true with my 97 ,Ford's have more power and stout, but any miss and it requires you to fix it.
My truck is down same reason
Where is this located in the truck?
It's between the brake and gas pedal...It's not near the clutch pedal.
@@garypatton9720 ok thank you
Question, after you took the clutch push rod out did it cause the master cylinder to leak? If not does that mean I can just take it out with your trick no worries?
no
better then factory
I did this mod and both master and slave clutch cylinders got shot how do I know if d push rod is long?
if it bottoms out, reclock the lever that is held on with th 19mm bolt
It’s not the problem, it’s the failure- dude
My 86 f150 has no plastic bushing. Does have a cotter type pin to hold linkage on.