Thanks for the video. If you haven't already, you should also look into the firewall brace/bracket, especially now that your clutch is fixed. It was a design flaw on Ford's part, because the firewall was designed for a mechanical clutch linkage. Then, in 84 they switched to hydraulic and put the master cylinder on the firewall. The forces on the master cylinder stress the firewall and cause it to crack. This reintroduces slop into the clutch because now the whole firewall moves. This was fixed in 1992 with the last bodystyle, and Ford had a TSB and fix for older models. I did it on my '85 when I converted it from an automatic to a 5 speed and it was pretty straight forward. You need to take the steering column out (much easier to do than it seems) and take the vent cowl off to drill some holes.
FOR ANYBODY TRYING TO CHANGE JUST THE PUSHROD WITHOUT REMOVING THE MASTER. All you need is a cheap ink pen. Pull the pen apart so all that you have left is the tube. The tube has the exact inside and outside diameters for this job! Cut the tube in half, then put a slice all the way down one side of it, long ways, so you can open it up and wrap it around the pushrod(don't cut the tube into 2 pieces). Once you wrap it around the rod, hold pressure on the rod twords the master and take a pair of pliers and work the tube in so that it gets between the rod and the master to release the two locking tabs. The rod will pop right out. Its actually very very easy! Hope this helps👍
Yeah, but what about that neutral safety switch in the way? I can get that stupid thing off. Was able to get connector off but can't remove it. Afraid I'm going to break it.
I converted my F150 to the heim joint and after 2 years I went back to stock. Hein joint will squeak and have to lubed every 3 to 4 months. Also, the set screw on the joint worked out and disappeared. You can buy a new master cylinder and new clutch lever for about $50. I have 580,000 mile on the truck and have replaced the plastic clip only 2 times. I'm good with that.
i have done two of these, both of my trucks the plastic clip broke and i lost my clutch out driving, i just buy a 3/8" heim joint, take a 3/8" NF bolt 3" long, cut the hex end off the bolt and bore a 1/4" hole about 1" up the center of the bolt, that will now slip over the pushrod you have cut the eye off of, i use a 3/8 NF nut as a jam nut to keep the bolt from backing out of the heim joint, you have to measure it all up well, the push rod will fit up the 3/8" bolt about 1", and if you do it correctly you will have some adjustment by turning the bolt in or out of the heim joint, make sure tighten your lock nut, if your worried about the pushrod just being inside the hole in the bolt, you could use some loctite quick metal and glue it in.
Just get a bolt, & some washers. Then u can use the old rod. Then drill out a hole in the swing arm or delete that pin in it. My truck had the joint mod already done to it, & it was rly sloppy on the rod. Don’t do this mod, just change the rod then use a bolt w some Loctite & that’s it.
PS: looks like you have another problem like I do. The main shaft plastic bushing are pretty worn by the amount of slop in the main shaft when you work the pedal. Mine is even worse. They look like a spiral wrap plastic bushing so if you can get replacements it should go in without removing the shaft I am thinking.
What the hell, how come you have so much room to pry the clutch swing arm off? There is literally no length of pry bar, angle or tip size that allows me to even get on the swing arm to pry it off. The clutch bracket itself is in the way
@@Curtisitruc1982 Well I finally got it off. Took six hours, the trick was to pry behind it with a bar, and wiggle the pin with vice grips. And I mean wiggle it good, I was shaking the whole truck like a mad man when it finally popped off. Thanks for all the advice
Where did you source your Heim joint? The two sources, Ebay and that diesel shop don't show them (the Ebay page was missing, while the diesel shop didn't list them on their webpage). Thanks. Doug
From what I understand no. It’s a hydraulic clutch. Meaning it’s a closed fluid system . The clutch master which is at your foot and firewall, the line, and the clutch slave which is down under clipped on to your clutch fork. The amount of travel is set. You push the rod in at the top and it pushes the rod out at the bottom. I would guess you have air in your System. You can bleed it, shim it. My advice is buy a whole new unit. As a set pre bled . If it’s 20 years old, it’s time. Don’t fool around being cheep. I’m speaking from my own personal experience
Neutral safety switch. Ensures you can't engage the starter without the clutch pushed in. One of the wires sends power to the switch and the other sends power from the switch to the starter solenoid
@@luisrg436 It must be some type of cheep aftermarket replacement. I’ve never seen a plastic hydraulic push rod. Just buy a master slave assembly. Pre blead with oil in. Then cut and install the pushrod/heim joint on the bench. Easy removal/install A new master slave will clean things up and it’s important preventative maintenance. Speaking from experience
Not a proper fix, complete BS. I fixed mine by knocking out the pin and drilling the hole to 1/2" Installed it using a 1/2" bolt that fit perfectly into the whole of the pushrod. I put flat washers and greased the moving parts. I tighten the bolt with a nylon lock nut to keep it just tight enough to move freely without having the nut loosen up.
It’s been good. I changed my master slave a few weeks ago as I had a leaky line and decided to just swap them both out. Your method sounds like it would work just fine. It’s not rocket science but I do believe that having a heim joint doesn’t hurt as it’s maybe not completely in out. Could your method put stress on the master or the firewall being stuck in such a fixed radius? I’m sure it’s fine though. Take care
@@Curtisitruc1982 it's not a fixed radius it does what it suppose to (go in and out) I don't understand why a clutch pedal needs to have the function to pivot side to side. from the factory, it was designed to go only in and out. The flaw is that it has some piece of plastic between 2 moving pieces of metal how could plastic ever hold up to do the job. If you think about it, would it not make more sense that would cause the master or slave to get damaged. Literally tho the results speak for themselves the padel functions 100x better and it engages right at the first 2"
@@MrMarcello551000 I like it. Good reply. You aught to make a video showing what you’ve done and link it to mine if possible. Sharing information is what I’m all about
@@MrMarcello551000 if you’re not using a heim joint, the angle at which you press the clutch pedal (everyone drives differently) will apply a moment on the firewall, which having a joint that removed said moment is the optimal way to go. i was thinking about running a bolt through too until i found they actually make joints for it.
Thanks for the video.
If you haven't already, you should also look into the firewall brace/bracket, especially now that your clutch is fixed. It was a design flaw on Ford's part, because the firewall was designed for a mechanical clutch linkage. Then, in 84 they switched to hydraulic and put the master cylinder on the firewall. The forces on the master cylinder stress the firewall and cause it to crack. This reintroduces slop into the clutch because now the whole firewall moves. This was fixed in 1992 with the last bodystyle, and Ford had a TSB and fix for older models.
I did it on my '85 when I converted it from an automatic to a 5 speed and it was pretty straight forward. You need to take the steering column out (much easier to do than it seems) and take the vent cowl off to drill some holes.
FOR ANYBODY TRYING TO CHANGE JUST THE PUSHROD WITHOUT REMOVING THE MASTER.
All you need is a cheap ink pen. Pull the pen apart so all that you have left is the tube. The tube has the exact inside and outside diameters for this job! Cut the tube in half, then put a slice all the way down one side of it, long ways, so you can open it up and wrap it around the pushrod(don't cut the tube into 2 pieces). Once you wrap it around the rod, hold pressure on the rod twords the master and take a pair of pliers and work the tube in so that it gets between the rod and the master to release the two locking tabs. The rod will pop right out. Its actually very very easy! Hope this helps👍
Chris Tuttle you should make a video on this
Yeah, make a video. Good topic. Not sure what type of cheap ink pen you're talking about since they are all cheap. Kind of vague.
@@Craptastic760 them pens that are made outta pvc almost. The soft plastic ones
to re-nstall it do you just push it back in and it will pop back into place?
Yeah, but what about that neutral safety switch in the way? I can get that stupid thing off. Was able to get connector off but can't remove it. Afraid I'm going to break it.
I converted my F150 to the heim joint and after 2 years I went back to stock. Hein joint will squeak and have to lubed every 3 to 4 months. Also, the set screw on the joint worked out and disappeared. You can buy a new master cylinder and new clutch lever for about $50. I have 580,000 mile on the truck and have replaced the plastic clip only 2 times. I'm good with that.
i have done two of these, both of my trucks the plastic clip broke and i lost my clutch out driving, i just buy a 3/8" heim joint, take a 3/8" NF bolt 3" long, cut the hex end off the bolt and bore a 1/4" hole about 1" up the center of the bolt, that will now slip over the pushrod you have cut the eye off of, i use a 3/8 NF nut as a jam nut to keep the bolt from backing out of the heim joint, you have to measure it all up well, the push rod will fit up the 3/8" bolt about 1", and if you do it correctly you will have some adjustment by turning the bolt in or out of the heim joint, make sure tighten your lock nut, if your worried about the pushrod just being inside the hole in the bolt, you could use some loctite quick metal and glue it in.
or a 10 dollar kit from ebay works too.
Just get a bolt, & some washers. Then u can use the old rod. Then drill out a hole in the swing arm or delete that pin in it. My truck had the joint mod already done to it, & it was rly sloppy on the rod. Don’t do this mod, just change the rod then use a bolt w some Loctite & that’s it.
PS: looks like you have another problem like I do. The main shaft plastic bushing are pretty worn by the amount of slop in the main shaft when you work the pedal. Mine is even worse. They look like a spiral wrap plastic bushing so if you can get replacements it should go in without removing the shaft I am thinking.
good vid. FYI it's a HEIM joint not hemi. Hemi is a chrystler product. ;-)
Lol, nice. Changed it!
Good video you get to the point quickly.
1995 Ford F150 5-speed clutch removal and replacement
Having trouble with the safety switch bottoming out.
That’s where I am now. Did you figure it out?
next will be swingarm bushings which is a pain!!! brake hangs on this also. FORD-fix or repair daliy!!! LOL
You didn't say anything about changing the clutch pedal bushing.
Because he got rid of it
What the hell, how come you have so much room to pry the clutch swing arm off? There is literally no length of pry bar, angle or tip size that allows me to even get on the swing arm to pry it off. The clutch bracket itself is in the way
The only thing I can think of is my truck was an auto conversation
Maybe it’s different ?
@@Curtisitruc1982 Ah I didn't think of that. I have a factory manual
@@Curtisitruc1982 Well I finally got it off. Took six hours, the trick was to pry behind it with a bar, and wiggle the pin with vice grips. And I mean wiggle it good, I was shaking the whole truck like a mad man when it finally popped off. Thanks for all the advice
I am having the same problem with my 1994 any more advice you guys have?
Where did you source your Heim joint? The two sources, Ebay and that diesel shop don't show them (the Ebay page was missing, while the diesel shop didn't list them on their webpage). Thanks. Doug
Amazon
The push rod looks like it can be adjusred ? Is this what I adjust because my clutch catch point is right off the floor ?
From what I understand no. It’s a hydraulic clutch. Meaning it’s a closed fluid system . The clutch master which is at your foot and firewall, the line, and the clutch slave which is down under clipped on to your clutch fork. The amount of travel is set. You push the rod in at the top and it pushes the rod out at the bottom. I would guess you have air in your System. You can bleed it, shim it.
My advice is buy a whole new unit. As a set pre bled . If it’s 20 years old, it’s time. Don’t fool around being cheep. I’m speaking from my own personal experience
@@Curtisitruc1982 Thanks for the reply. I will try bleeding it first . 👍
But the swingarm is splined that's your adjustment correct me if I'm wrong
What are the two red wires for coming from the clutch neutral switch?
Desert Jeff
They are power wires I think
I took them off and put in a toggle switch as a dead man
Neutral safety switch. Ensures you can't engage the starter without the clutch pushed in. One of the wires sends power to the switch and the other sends power from the switch to the starter solenoid
Could you not just grind and punch out the pin then put the bolt through the original push rod?
Absolutely. The Heim joint just helps reduce stress on the pushrod and firewall when going in and out
@BURNINGBANSHE the reason I ask is because my push rod is hard plastic, not metal like all the videos show.
@@luisrg436
It must be some type of cheep aftermarket replacement. I’ve never seen a plastic hydraulic push rod. Just buy a master slave assembly. Pre blead with oil in. Then cut and install the pushrod/heim joint on the bench. Easy removal/install
A new master slave will clean things up and it’s important preventative maintenance. Speaking from experience
@@Curtisitruc1982 Thank you!
@@luisrg436 Mine is plastic too. I have a 94 F150 300/4.9 5 speed.
Did you figure out what to do? If so, please let me know.
Where abouts you live I swear I have seen your truck or atleast one that looks exactly the same
Patrick Luchak
Vernon bc
I knew it fuck yea lol I live in lumby bc lol
Not a proper fix, complete BS. I fixed mine by knocking out the pin and drilling the hole to 1/2" Installed it using a 1/2" bolt that fit perfectly into the whole of the pushrod. I put flat washers and greased the moving parts. I tighten the bolt with a nylon lock nut to keep it just tight enough to move freely without having the nut loosen up.
It’s been good. I changed my master slave a few weeks ago as I had a leaky line and decided to just swap them both out. Your method sounds like it would work just fine. It’s not rocket science but I do believe that having a heim joint doesn’t hurt as it’s maybe not completely in out. Could your method put stress on the master or the firewall being stuck in such a fixed radius? I’m sure it’s fine though.
Take care
@@Curtisitruc1982 it's not a fixed radius it does what it suppose to (go in and out) I don't understand why a clutch pedal needs to have the function to pivot side to side. from the factory, it was designed to go only in and out. The flaw is that it has some piece of plastic between 2 moving pieces of metal how could plastic ever hold up to do the job. If you think about it, would it not make more sense that would cause the master or slave to get damaged. Literally tho the results speak for themselves the padel functions 100x better and it engages right at the first 2"
@@MrMarcello551000 I like it. Good reply. You aught to make a video showing what you’ve done and link it to mine if possible. Sharing information is what I’m all about
@@MrMarcello551000 if you’re not using a heim joint, the angle at which you press the clutch pedal (everyone drives differently) will apply a moment on the firewall, which having a joint that removed said moment is the optimal way to go. i was thinking about running a bolt through too until i found they actually make joints for it.
Heim joint is better, when your truck flexes real good your clutch pedal assembly can get stuck. It's not common but it happens