Clutch Pedal F150 Slave Cylinder diagnosis fail
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- čas přidán 12. 09. 2024
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Does your clutch not fully disengage? Maybe you've got this problem too?
Common issue on these older F-series trucks. One thing to look at first though, is that the mounting bolts on the clutch master are not pulling through the firewall. This will make you lose your clutch pedal "throw" as well and exhibit the same symptoms. Ford sells a simple kit to fix this issue. Both issues are usually caused by a dry throwout bearing causing hard pedal pressure.
Dude, I've been searching every where for this fix! Just replaced my entire clutch and hydraulic system (they needed to be) and bled my clutch maybe 100 times. Thank you so much! I got an 87 so if it works ill let you know so you can add it to the list :)'
Hey Brian thanks for the video on the diagnosis! My son has a 97 F150 4x4 and is having same problems as if the slave cylinder has gone out. I hadn't had a chance to look at it but he replaced the master already b4 I could look at it and still haven't had a chance to look at it yet. He said he tried to bleed the slave and nothing would come out. I asked if he had someone pump the clutch pedal several times and repeated the process and he said yes they did that and still no fluid cam out.
@aircoupe1 If it stays down then you have a hydraulic leak either from the clutch master cylinder by the pedals, or inside the bell housing on the slave cylinder. There's a bleeder screw (8mm) sticking out the drivers side of the bell housing. You can bleed it with the help of some one pushing the pedal down for you. Bleed it out and see if it can hold pressure, if not you'll need to find which is leaking, replace it, and then bleed it again. Bleeding these can be tricky.
I think you might have just saved me a lot of time and $. Thought I was having slave cylinder problems but went to check for slop in the clutch like you showed and yup, I can see it wobbling around what likes close to the same amount in the video. Sure hope that solves my problem at least, way easier than slave. Thanks for the video.
@Elevatorguy4 Good call. And on that note use the Moly grease used for brakes. Normal wheel bearing grease will absorb clutch dust that combined with heat will make the problem of resistance even worse.
@waterwart The best way is to push the fluid through from the master cylinder. it's the fastest anyway. But in the end just try the options you have available till you win.
@waterwart Ask and ye shall receive. Pull the starter and the clutch line on the drivers side by pushing the white sleeve into the collar and then pull apart. Drop the transfer case if 4X4. Drop the trans. Replace the slave cylinder unit for sure and any clutch components you see fit, but at least the clutch disc. When you assemble, lube the line for the slave cylinder. Use a vacuum pump to bleed the slave cylinder.
@aircoupe1 Some times the best way to bleed them is to cut up an inner tube and clamp the valve part over the master cylinder and pump it up to 15 psi and then open the bleeder and then close it when it's down to like 3psi and then repeat keeping the fluid full of course.
My pedal shaft has the same problem! Now I know it's probably not the new clutch or slave/master !! Thanks so much !!!
@aircoupe1 You have a fascinating rhetoric. I would recomend looking down under the dash at the top of the clutch pedal with a flashlight for fluid leaking in. You may also want to pull the rubber grommet off. if you see moisture there, then you may benefit from a new master cylinder. Good luck! Love ya!
If the engine rear main seal or back side of the oil pan gasket leak, they get flung by the flywheel. Same thing happens if the transmission front seal leaks. Other than that you'd have a cracked trans or something. The thing to do is clean it up with brake cleaner (cold engine and not running to prevent fire etc. no smoking etc. etc.) And then watch the area after driving a day or so to see if the oil comes back.
Thanks for the video man today is February 10th 2020 and I'm working on a 89 F150 same problem clutch thank you for the information had no idea what to do
@Danielsor14 You're welcome! I'm glad I could help.
@aircoupe1 It sounds like the slave cylinder has failed. It's the same configuration as doing the clutch like you did. You can slide everything back if it worked on your model before.
@jfea2175 You're welcome. Don't feel bad, most people don't look for answers until they hit a wall. That is, unless they aren't the get'r done types and just find answers all day and don't do anything about it. You're good.
@briansmobile1 Ford has a cheap solution. It is a reinforcing bracket that fits around the outside mounting area of the clutch master under the dash. The engineering is all done and the part is inexpensive. The other thing that fails often is the plastic bushing between the ball end on the release lever and the eye on the clutch master pushrod. If this fails and is not fixed quickly the lever will wear a groove in itself and the round opening on the clutch master pushrod will become oblong.
@waterwart It should be able to touch the pressure plate fingers without making any noise. If it does it is likely the bearing is rusted up and dry- You'll likely have to replace the slave cylinder and throw out bearing. Sorry my friend. = (
You may need to reset the ractcheting switch for the clutch pedal under the dash.
If it's still firm and at the correct height it may be something other than the hydraulics like a broken linkage etc.
@briansmobile1 One last thing on this subject...the hard pedal effort on these trucks can usually be helped by pulling the clutch fork and reaching in to lubricate the throwout bearing.
@bigbluetreeworks On the 1984's check the integrity of the firewall that the MC mounts to.
Great Video, I wish I had watched your clip before spending well over $ 1,500 with guys replacing parts and it still didn't solve the problem. When to the shop, looked underneath the dash, and there was the worn out end. Reasonable wear for a 275,000 miles. Hats off to you! Thanks from New England. Ken
@Elevatorguy4 Good point. I had an '84 that did that. I had to weld some big fat washers I cut up to it.
OR you can adjust it by removing the retainer while the pedal is up and make it long again.
The Firewall on some models are actually flexing to ,watch the as someone else presses the clutch petal.around the area where you pour the fluid in the resivoir
@JaMeS420b1 It's on some late 90's F150's too. No one likes them if theyr'e the end user of the product. They ARE a quieter design and DO cut weight though.
@Hickbilly9 You have more info on your situation than I do. I trust you. You'll do the best thing for your situation.
@badbob8282 Some times after all that.... it could be air in the lines. I like to use compressed air to push fluid down through the master cylinder. If you can use a big irrigation syringe that works well.
@Danielsor14 You're welcome- thanks for the shout out!
briansmobile1 hey Brian I was driving aF150 2009 and came to a stop and it had a sudden Sqeal sound that lasted 5 seconds then it was very hard to put into gear. I finally got it to go and drove a couple blocks to my House as I pulled up and mashed the clutch it acted as if i didn't have it pressed and the truck went dead and wouldn't come out of gear.. slave cylinder was replaced and it still won't come out of gear??HELP PLZ I'm a female with a good bit of knowledge about cars but not in this area
@waterwart Sounds like you're pretty worried about it. I hate worrying. I'd tear that trans out and get it.
It could be motor oil, or trans f. You don't have to drain the trans to do the slave.
You folks may not agree with my comment but I will still post it for what its worth.
Your're fix although I assume it did work put everything out of whack on the main shaft not to mention the bushing you "trimmed down" to a smaller size which will be the next thing to fail now.
First off the part needed could have been found at an auto recycling yard, used, or I would have fixed the elongated hole by welding it up where it had elongated and then drilled it back out to the proper size for the rod and bushing you had trimmed down on your video.
I have done this type of fix many times on other areas of cars and trucks where the hole was elongated and it always puts it back to factory specs which is always the best approach.
I do commend you guys on finding the original problem and even your're fix to a point but you just went about in the wrong fashion. You should never have to move anything like you did that main control rod since it moves everything out of position.
You could have found a piece of steel pipe that had the right hole size and cut it to fit into the spot where it was elongated and then rewelded the area up. The bracket that was elongated looked to be around a 1/4 inch thick so cutting a piece of pipe a 1/4 of an inch wide would have been so easy to do, almost like putting a new bushing in the spot.
I just hope the customer never has an issue with that truck since it could then come back to haunt you especially if someone gets hurt.
Again I'm not trying to you did anything super wrong but you did not do the repair properly. Sorry.
Wish you folks lots of luck and keep trying to better yourselves, experience is always a learning curve as we all know too well.
@TheTrainboy88 Sounds possible. I'm not certain which hard plastic piece you're referring to though. Are you talking about the nuetral safety switch for the clutch pedal that inhibits the starter signal wire?
Thank You 😊 Excellent Commentary and Exposure Of The Actual Problem. Solved
This looks a lot like the setup in the late 80's early 90's Mustangs, except they use a quadrant and a cable.
@waterwart That's a bummer man. I wonder if there was something present between the slave and the gearbox that made it not mount/sit flush.
I have the same problem on my 89 F-150, Big block 6, 2 wheel drive, manual .....Clutch pedal is sitting way to low....I wish you where close to Houston so I could bring my truck to you......Regards.
@zapityzapzap You can thank France for the internal S.Cylinder. They designed it. ; )
Hi Brian I do have a question about hard clutch pedal, I do have two friend with that problem, really hard to push down and came back fast, no problem to shift, I been read info about it and all says it's normal and can't be fix..
Anything could be a problem, but it doesn't mean it will be a problem. I wouldn't worry about it for now. If it is a problem the solution is to tear it down and replace it. It doesn't make sense to do that right now if it's working fine. Unless of course you're going to drive across Africa and then on to the North Pole. Then you should replace it now.
@aircoupe1 On behalf of myself and others- thanks for the feedback.
You're welcome- is that flux capacitor installed on an F150?
Maybe your syncros are bad and you're smashing the pedal to compensate.
You can't- this vid was from back before Google bought YT and before we got paid etc.
Question, i took out the pedal assembly and replaced the bushings and realized i didn't mark the lever...so i guessed at it and definitely think not in the right spot. Do you have any info on the placement for the lever?
the manual chevrolet S- 10 are just as bad. because cast aluminum and plastic grommet dont get along... the fix was a long bolt and a nut that fits snugly from lowes. a little lube and its fixed.
what would cause trans fluid to leak around the slave area? I know its not motor oil, because it's all dry above the slave and on the engine.
Hey man I think this might be my problem. I have a 92 straight six, and I have always had play in the clutch since I got it. It seems to engage like .75 inches off the ground maybe even a half inch. And now the clutch pedal clicks when I'm pushing it in. It's just one really big click. I saw this video and figured that this would be why it does that. Have you ever heard of this happening?
This is what is wrong with my 97 f350 grinds going into reverse and first doesn’t like to shift through gears and I barely have a clutch pedal 👍🏻
i hope my problem is a easier fix that yours was.
When i press the clutch peddle down to start the truck, nothing happens. Sometimes if i press super hard and FAST it will turn over. on my f-150 1994 there are 6 wires attached to a small socket that plugs into a switch ( i think ) on a shaft at the end of the clutch peddle. are the 2 red wires the ones i should connect together to bypas the switch ?? The red wires are larger that the other 4 wires . Thanks Gary
What would you recomend to do next ? He has already purchased a new slave b4 I could even try to diagnosis the problem but it' has a 30 day return warrenty. I think I'll look at just what you showed in this video even if it is a 97. Any feed back would be appreciated. Peace my man!
@sooev Thanks!
@waterwart lol......lol...... can I recommend some fun tools for that?
Great vid man! U saved me a good bit of $!
hi brian how you doing my friend... just hanging watching your vids always ..saludos amigo
Any reason you weld up a solid bracket as opposed to replacing the bushings? I have the same problem and am wondering the best way to fix this.
I was wondering if that might be the problem with my truck I just had everything fixed and now it seems like the clutch went out it won't go into gear but the engine sounds good is that what the diagnosis was of that truck
definitely could be.
Brian, I have a 95 F150 2wd, inline 6. The clutch master cylinder Keeps breaking, every 3 months or so, the plastic push pin goes first, I then retrofit a turnbuckle to patch the problem. Then in another month or two the who master cylinder fails. This is my fourth one. Any thoughts?
that's what I need it to know,,,thanks for sharing
My clutch was doing the same on glad I came here
Converted over to a t5 my clutch fork almost bottoms out on opening. I have to literally put pedal to the floor to engauge/disengauge tried adjusting master and slave every which way all parts are brand new. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance
same here nice job on the video
Hey Brainsmobile 1,
My son just replaced the clutch in his 94 F150. The clutch is depressing, the cylinders don't have any leaks, but the new clutch won't disengage. He just informed me that he did not replace the throw-out bearing with the new one that came with the clutch assembly. Could this be the problem?
Thank you ,really helpful! 5 stars
Thanks! Good vid!
Glad it helped!
at 0:51 if you can catch it in the video, That rubber stopper that the clutch pedal touches I cant find it anywhere or even know what its called!
thank so much 💪🏾👈🏾
Ey would you happen to know what my trucks problem is I push the clutch in to turn it on everything lights up like its goin to fire up but it doesn't they said it was the safety switch so I replaced it but still the same nothing.
Get to basics and start proving components functional from the MC forward. Don't assume things are OK. Prove them.
five stars to you man
lol Pretty cool just the same.
Does anyone know if this will work on a 97F150 4.6 triden 4wd manual transmission. My clutch just recently stopped engaging and my truck ain’t wanting to go into gears.
Thanks
Ive been under my 95 f150 bleeding and bleeding and it still wont go into gear while running although if the truck is turned off it will shift fine ...I think this might be the prob....thanks alot...any other suggestions as this was a new slave cylinder and clutch
I’m having the same issue
Did this work when you did it please help 😭😅
Wrecking yard... $20. You can search on car-part.com
Awesome
5 Stars
can this be done without removing it?
Nope
i don't see any 5 stars to click dude : ((
I was wondering if that might be the problem with my truck I just had everything fixed and now it seems like the clutch went out it won't go into gear but the engine sounds good is that what the diagnosis was of that truck