Magic Water v Envirotex Lite
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- čas přidán 8. 12. 2015
- Magic Water v Envirotex Lite
These two products are both commonly used on dioramas or layouts to model water. They are two part epoxy resins which are mixed together and then harden to glossy water.
I have seen this debate on the internet a number of times so you've decided on using epoxy resin for your water but which one to use - Magic Water or Envirotex Lite?
In this video I use two identical dioramas to show how the two products compare and which one is best.
Index
00:51 The Real World
01:11 The Comparison
09:33 Final Result
13:00 Scale Kathys
14:43 Close
If you are enjoying the series then please subscribe to my channel for the next weekly instalment. - Krátké a kreslené filmy
Kathy,
I watched this and your review of your port, both great. As others have suggested you would probably be better of weighing the ratios to mix, rather than using volume by eye, that will improve your setting times. Secondly, to prevent the bubbles in resin you are best of getting a small vacuum pot and pulling the gas out of the cup before pouring, alternatively, find a vibrating plate (An upside detail sander works as well) to stand the mixed resin on. Finally, as another has said, pour from a reasonable height in a thin stream to pull as much of the remaining bubbles from the mix.
Great information very well presented. Thank you.
Cheers,
Chris
+Hendo2277 Chris, I do now weigh my resin so that’s improved some things but the Magic Water rarely bubbles so I do find it much easier to work with.
I just love watching this, thanks for the video, 4 years since posting 👍🏻
Thanks.
hi Kathy... another great vid... thanks for the comparison of both products... vinny
Thanks Vinny!
I've never tried the "Magic Water", but I've used both Envirotex Lite and Woodland Scenics "Realistic Water & Water Effects".
Both were used in similar situations in the same room, and all three streams contained both level areas and rapids. Because of the rapids, I poured all my water from the top of the stream in several thin layers, letting it flow over the rapids until it found it's own level in the lower ponds. I helped it to spread into some of the thinner areas by drawing it with the stirring stick.
Both products flowed well, set up without trouble and looked great at first. Neither had any trouble degassing, so maybe it's the paint you added that caused the problems you encountered.
One of the Realistic Water streams started to go cloudy in one area, gradually spreading and getting worse for a few weeks. I was contemplating having to find an excuse to model a toxic chemical spill, although after a couple of months, it cleared up by itself. I still don't know what caused it. Also with the WS RW, I had one small area where it separated from the base leaving a very unsightly bubble. I had to cut it away completely and fill the hole with the next pour (unfortunately, it didn't bond invisibly to itself as I had hoped, and the patch is very visible).
The only time I tried mixing a little paint into the "Water Effects", it ended up looking as though I had just painted the water on and I had to peel everything off and start again with bare rocks.
With the Envirotex Lite, I had no trouble at all. Where I wanted water dripping out of a culvert and some wet areas without much standing water, it would have been too thick on its own. After some research, I found out that xylene can be used to thin it - even making it thin enough to airbrush if desired (it was a fishing website I found and the guy was using it to paint lures). Also, I found that the meniscus effect could be pretty much eliminated by finishing with a thin pour that barely covers the water, thus filling in the trough. It was about two years ago that this stream was poured. My wife says it looks to have browned a little, although I don't see any significant difference and it still looks good to me.
The biggest difference I have found is in the durability of the finished surfaces. Even a year or so after pouring, the WS MW is too fragile for water that might get touched. While I was working on my forest scene, I laid out some small shrubs (the tiny pieces that fell off my super trees). Even though they weigh virtually nothing and were there for only a few hours, my water still bears the dents from them. Eventually, I'll probably just pour Envirotex over them.
I hope this information is useful.
+mpeterll Thanks! I've heard a lot of bad things about some of the WS water products so I do tend to avoid them. Epoxy may be a pain but its results are the best in my view. You might be able to put Envirotex into where you had that bubble too.
Thanks for the comments.
Thanks for clearing something up for me, Kathy!
I've used both products as well...
I always felt that I mixed the Magic Water improperly. It would take up to four days to dry, and STILL felt rubbery!
(Caveat - I live in Arizona. Average temperature when I'm working is roughly 102-117 degrees Fahrenheit!!!
The average humidity is around 5%. Therefore, I would assume that the HOT and dry sped up my curing times somewhat.)
Still, I thought four days was a LONG time!
Apparently, it's quicker vs. a cooler, more damp climate.
I truly felt I got it wrong!
BTW, I am thoroughly enjoying your videos!! :)
The first time I used it, it did my head in but I now prefer it. I quite like the rubbery texture.
I've found that by the end of bottles, I have more hardener left. I've been putting in slightly over a third in and it does set more quickly then.
Kathy Millatt Hmmmm....
That's worth having a go!
I don't like measuring down to the ounce or gram....
But, I'd love to see what a little more Gardner would do. ;)
Kathy Millatt I think I may prefer the more rubbery as well...
I have a sectional Layout (not modular). It's so if I have to move, it wouldn't involve tearing down ANOTHER Layout!!
SO sad to do...
So... right. The flexible nature of the MW, should make it safer to move!
+Carmine Allocca my thoughts exactly. I've seen some beautiful exhibition layouts with cracked resin which really mars them.
I am getting ready to try a Woodland Scenics product called Deep Pour. I am grateful for the review of alternatives.
I'm going to say that your bubbles are not 100% the resin in either case but maybe a case of what you have in the bottom of your basin. As discussed in one of my earlier comments try this again but use each product just makes a thimble fool and use a a throwaway craft brush or something to make sure that you move it around on top of everything secured in the bottom and put a clear hard coat very thin I'm just enough to make it look wet. So if it's shiny then you got it coated and it'll cure really quick. But you don't need it to cure all the way you just need it to firm up so that you can pour more on top of it. Then pour more on top of it. Remember! Heat for Magic Water. And carbon dioxide for Envirotech. Also the instructions with Envirotech I believe instruct you to stir in one container and then pour from a height into another container and this helps to eliminate some of the bubbles. But also if you'll use a straw and blow across the surface and wait a bit and then blow across the surface some more you can usually work all those bubbles up to the top and and have them degas.. you have a long time with Magic Water to watch for bubbles and to either gently warm them away with a hair dryer or a heat gun. Heat guns can be had very very cheaply here in America that places like Harbor Freight. They make very expensive ones too but for this type of work you don't need expensive LOL you just need heat. With a heat gun you have the heat without the air movement. And with a hair dryer on high enough Heat to do the job it's sometimes enough force of air to move the resident places you don't want it to be like out of your terrain basin. If you have rougher unpleasant surfaces on the sides try using a clear plastic tape instead of masking tape. Masking tape has a specific course texture to it and the clear plastic tape is going to leave a clear surface. But if you do still have scuffs or rough places or you find the need to sand and it leaves a white scratched area if you mix up just a little bit of either resin and carefully brush it on it will cure nice and slick and clear and you'll even be able to see into the the side of your project.
I've used magic water for 7 years now and the I have to say the real reason why magic water took so long for it to set on you is because it's supposed to be a 1-1 mix ration. I know you mentioned in the beginning of the Video. It does dry a bit softer that other types of resins and it is a low viscosity material which will never allow bubbles. I use envirotex to cast models from my rubber molds to keep my molds longer. The longest I've waited for magic water to finish curing is two solid days. Try mixing 1-1 ratio and you'll see the difference. Also paints don't affect the curing time at all.
+prince troncoso I’m using the ratios given on the box and, off the top of my head, I am doing one to one. Envirotex Lite is a different ratio at 1:2.
@@KathyMillatt The Envirotex ratio I use is a 1:1 ratio. I use a scale to measure out equal parts and have very few bubbles. It cures in a couple days depending on the room temperature and relitive humidity. I think you ment to say that the Magic Water is a 1:2 mix, not Envirtex Lite.
My preference for modeling water is manic water. By they are both great products. Nice video.
+prince troncoso Thanks, I agree Magic Water is better for me.
I can tell you that with Envirotex Lite, the thicker the pour, the quicker it sets. Many years ago I also used original Envirotex which required open windows, doors and a fan to disperse the fumes! Lite is much better for that reason alone. I used Lite on two raffle layouts that my team built. In the first layout there was a port scene covering about a 2 x 4.5 foot area. The first pour was about 1/4 inch thick and took almost two days to set. The last pour was done 8 hours before it went to the train show and was 3/4 inch thick. I was a nervous wreck that night as the temperature outside was 20F degrees and inside I could only get it to 65F but in about 2.5 hours it was hard as a rock and almost no bubbles!In the second raffle layout there was a log pond about 6 x 12 inches which was done in a the single pour and again 8 hours before a train show. This time the pour was 1.5 inches thick and the Envirotex Lite got very hot, hot enough to melt the hot glue I had used to plug holes in the pond! I spent half an hour under the layout frantically plugging leaks before it set up and the leaks stopped. In this case I didn't care if there were bubbles as the pond was also full of logs!A friend used a Woodland Scenics product (forget the name) about 18 years ago to pour a small stream and a shallow pond. In both cases the product developed cracks after a few years.
Just a word on one of the differences between these products. For the bubbles in Magic Water you want to use Heat. And for the bubbles in liquitex you want to use carbon dioxide so blowing on it through a straw is best. But you need to use either a heat gun or a hair dryer gently especially on a small piece like that for Magic water. And those instructions come straight from Dave Williams. I miss Dave! Thanks for this video.
I use a blow torch now.
On your resin bubbles, here's a thing that will probably help:
Vibrating your resin before you pour will cause most of the bubbles to rise to the surface. If you have a rattly old air compressor, you can put your resin cup on top of it and turn it on for a minute or so.
You could also do something like put the diorama on sort of flimsy table, pour the resin, and use some kind of implement that twill cause the whole thing to shake. Maybe using a mixer to make some mashed potatoes while you're at it.
Or maybe you can do a load of laundry, turn the washing machine off just as it starts to enter the spin cycle, mix your resin, put the resin cup on top of the washing machine, turn the washing machine back on.
Basically, there's a lot of ways to go about it, you just have to get creative. I suspect that a higher frequency of vibration is more ideal, but I'm not sure how much it matters.
+ColonelSandersLite Those are great ideas! I find I stick to Magic Water because it doesn’t get bubbles so is just easier to work with. Plus the slightly rubbery texture means it is less likely to chip or crack.
Well so glad I saw this video, I was ready to purchase the Envirotex Lite, but now I'm going with the magic water.
I'm not in a hurry so I do like the way magic water surrounds the stones/rocks and is very convincing of real water!
It can stay soft and rubbery for my project which will be a truck stuck in a large murky mud puddle.
Thank you Kathy!!!!!!! Again!!
Glad to help Dan. Good luck with your project.
Okay you just said that your your work area there is about 20° Celsius which is about 68° Fahrenheit which is about it's close to what you need but 72 or warmer is better. Also the humidity can have a huge effect. And if you are in England as I suspect you are then your humidity is probably a lot higher than it is even during the rainy season here in North Georgia USA. When it's raining and I need work to dry I fire up the space heater. In the winter time I have fans in the space heater running and it's no problem. In the summertime when it's nice and warm and sunny, something that you're likely not used to, the humidity is still a a lot lower here than it is there. And humidity can stretch your dry time out to a week. So when you have need a faster cure with Magic Water put it in a room where you can put it turn on a space heater or dehumidifier and make a warm environment and make a dry environment at the same time. Also ventilation is important anytime you're using any type of resin. When I'm doing small projects like your little samples there, having the fans on and maybe a window cracked or not at all is fine. But if I'm doing large areas like coding a 2x2 ft surface for a pouring basins of 6 to 8 in in diameter or area then I will want fresh air coming in and a couple of fans working well. And a good warm temperature. So in winter time deep pores are difficult. But not so much with the faster cure amazing clear cast or Envirotech
I've heard professionals who work with epoxy resins and mold/casting materials always recommend to measure multi-part mixes by weight instead of volume. They claim that it's even more important to do so when mixing smaller amounts. This makes a lot of sense due to a scale being much more precise than trying to eyeball measuring lines.
Is there a chance your cure time was longer than expected due to the ratios being slightly off? As you mentioned in the video, could the paint have added to the cure time? Or, Is this just how long it takes for Magic Water to cure?
_I know this is an older video and there's a good chance that you touch on these questions in a later video but, I just found your channel and am working my way through them._
Very informative videos by the way... Well done.
Thanks! I have tried weighing the resin and got the same long drying time. I think it's just something I am used to now so it doesn't bother me. I'm sure the paint does affect the mix but it still does set which is my biggest worry. I do prefer Magic Water.
Fair enough... Thanks for the reply.
hi Kathy love your show really enjoyable but please could you tell me where you get you're magic water from thanks a lot keep up the shows
Kathy, would the thickness of the pour have impacted the setting time?
Hi Matt. I suspect that if heat is generated by the reaction and that then aids the resin setting then a deeper pour will speed the set.
All my Magic Water pours have take several days to set, regardless of depth.
Kathy
For envirotex lite, leave it in warm water for a bit to warm it up, after pouring leave approx 15 min THEN blow on it, that should minimize bubbles. (Maybe pour from a height)
Thanks for the tip. I’d never thought I’d warm water.
im having a hard time keeping my resin contained when i use it, it just leaks everywhere. Gonna try blutac next but damn its annoying! what have you used here?
Josh, I have had so many leaks that I understand your problems. I now use silicon sealant and a thick acetate by preference. If the edge is not too important then I might use foam board wrapped in cling film but that's never as neat as the cling film wrinkles. Whatever I use, I make sure that the material the resin comes in contact with is clear do if I can't peel it off, I can just trim it instead. Even then, I still raise the diorama up and put down loads of newspapers underneath to be sure.
Hello Kathy, thank you for your video, all those years ago. I hope you still get an alert about my question! Can you tell me if you have ever brushed Magic Water onto a diorama or layout? I have a situation where it cannot be poured, and my river has a flat silty riverbed. I believe I can brush it, like we used to do with varnish in the old days. Just wondered if you have any experience of brushing it on. I tried to contact the manufacturer, but sadly the owner has passed away.
I have only ever poured it but use brushes or pipettes etc to manipulate resin all the time so I don’t see a problem.
I would chose Envirotex lite! 👍🏼
I'm looking to do a Coven Throne coming out a base of blood. Do either of these mix well with paint?
They do but you have to pick the right paint. Too much water and they may react so an enamel or high pigment acrylic works well.
Ive only used envirotex and had no bubbles because i mix it very slow and poured it in a very small string this way it degases better, i used it for amoured glass in a humvee.
Hi Steve. I don't normally have such gas so I guess I was over zealous in the mixing! Magic Water seems to stand up better.
Kathy
Steve, does heating up the bottles of envirotext lite in warm water help thin the mix at all?
Tim, I've never tried it but it does take longer to set when it is colder. Envirotex is already pretty thin so I'm not sure warming will make much difference. If you try it then do let me know! Kathy
I have tried nearly every water making product, and Magic Water is by far the best. I’ve been using it for ten years, and poured gallons of it.
I agree!
Magic Water retains flexibility even after several years. It will not crack with age, the understructure moving due to temperature and humidity changes. I have a sample from when I poured on my model railroad four years ago, and it is still flexible... which to me is good. I covered the area for about 3 or 4 days to keep dust off while it set.
It does seem like a great product.
Great, thanks for the review. I didn't know weather to order magic water or not, luckily I found a place that sells envirotex lite locally (hard to find stuff in Australia) I've never given either of them a go (still new to modelling) but we'll see how we go.. It seems like they both have their pro's and cons :)
Hi Tim, they both work and you can get great results with either. I would just have a go on something small first to get your courage up before doing something large!
I gave the envirotex lite a go... Really good stuff.. super clear, hard and no bubbles. Just gotta practice my paint swirls for the swamp effects ;)
+Tim Everton Glad to hear. Swamps are fun! I hope it looks good when you are done.
Cheers :)
I did these a few months back Kathy, the envirotex worked a treat!
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You might try using mod podge over the magic water to simulate waves and/or ripples... I've watched terranscapes using it to great effect... I've been experimenting with clay to make molds and mod podge to make model parts... I've achieved mixed results... As always Kat, thanks for sharing and keep on keeping on!!!
I had a bad experience with Mod Podge so prefer to use acrylic gloss medium from the art shop. If you check out my other water videos, you can see me using it many times there.
I wonder if you layered them, what would happen...
I'll be modeling small water falls, puddles below my log flumes a fast moving flow in the flume and the Ruddigore river destination for my logs. I think I'll have to try out the various method and see what works best for me'
+Sandra J. Syx-Spears You can't beat trial and error! You may find that a whole range of techniques work and are needed for each element. I'd love to see photos when you are done. Kathy
Hi. Thanks for these videos. Your work is great; I just started watching your channel last night. I have a question about the Magic Water. Does it eventually cure hard like Envirotex Lite? I mold Envirotex occasionally and after about 3 weeks it sets very hard almost like phenolic resin. I was wondering if Magic Water would do similarly. Thanks.
Ok..maybe you answered my question already.
+Christopher Melvin It never quite sets as hard as it's more rubbery in texture. That makes it easier to use on a diorama for me.
Yeah..you kind of answered in the video. I jumped the gun a little there. But thanks for taking time to reply anyway. And thanks for posting the video. I'm always interested in new tools and materials to help make things.
Have you tried heating th envirotex product in hot hater hot were you can touch it not boiling.
Not sure for Envirotex but I’ve done it for other resins where they’re too thick to mix well at room temperature.
I realize this recording was done several years ago, but perhaps that’s a benefit related to my question. I understand that Unreal Detail is out of business.
1. If, by chance, I could find any Magic Water in large volume, how long have you had any and still remained usable?
2. Do you know of any suitable substitute for the Magic Water (low or no odor, thin consistency, low bubbling, and less edge creep)?
I use mine recently and it’s several years old. Just do a small test and see if it sets.
I use Epoxyplast now but it’s a 72 hour cure time. Seems the most inert though because of the long cure and it really doesn’t bubble or react with the base as far as I can tell.
Hello Kathy, Have you ever used Woodland Scenics Realistic Water? and water effects? im wondering how it compares to the resins and epoxys?
Shaun Basham Hi, I haven't. I've heard bad things about one of their products so I guess I keep away from them. That's probably unfair on them.
ya I have heard their EZ Water is not very good caus it has to be melted down. I would be interested to see a comparison with the Magic Water and the Woodland Scenics Realistic Water. I have absolutely no experience with any of them as I am working on my very first large Diorama in HO Scale. I have been watching your tutorials on rivers and such as mine has a river. Oh i do have another question. the blue foam you use. what kind of foam is that? i could not find anything like in my local home depot here in the states.
+Shaun Basham The blue foam is craft foam. You can use house insulation foam instead if you can find it. Over here, it's often flame retardant Celotex that you have to carve with a knife rather than a hot wire tool but it works as well.
COMMENT 1/2 Great practical comparison and tips, Kathy. Thanks again for sharing.There is nothing like seeing it with your own eyes!! - Kathy, Do you know any detail about the type of resin for Magic Water?? are they both EPOXY-resins? I have a suspicion MW may be different because of the 1. different mixing ratio (epoxy resins seem to be mixed 1:1) & 2.the manufacturer's advice that Magic Water formula has less bubbles - Magic Water may be something else or tweaked in some way (as Easy Cast supposedly has been)
+Vikki Wilson
COMMENT 2/2
3. The manufacturer’s website statement that they were searching fora “perfect water effects” formula (knowing the limitations of other products) during product development.
PS I saw “Commissar Gamza” pour his clear water effects (Vallejo)in his swamp MUCH DEEPER than usually recommended.But I don’t remember him showing the solid piece. So it could be still curing :) Sorry for longpost.
+Vikki Wilson Thanks for your comments!
I think Magic Water is still an epoxy resin but as you say, the Manufacturer chose a different mix to try to deal with some of the common problems. He's certainly been successful!
The difference in bubbles was striking but I don't remember Envirotex ever being that bubbly in the past. I'll show off some of my previous work next week.
If you pour deep layers (certainly of Envirotex) then the chemical reaction can lead to quite high temperatures and I have heard of plastic people melting. I didn't do a heat test but thin layers have much less of a problem anyway. I suspect it will cure more quickly because of the heat but that may cause its own problems.
Thanks for the support
Kathy
Your conclusion is very encouraging - I’ve just ordered someMagic Water! & some WS Realistic Water for my test pools with various materials plus different underwater flora & fauna to see whats safe and what looks good. My ponds will be Magic Water, Realistic Water, Future Floor Polish, Diamond Glaze, Dimensional Magic (all acrylic media except Magic Water) Ill seal ‘em all when clear.
On depth of pour, Apparently the rubbery resins (as in those used by florists to fake water) can stand a deeper pour.
I read a tragic account by a wonderful diorama artist of his beloved, carefully-painted model ship disintegrating, but it was not clear if it was due the exothermic (heat)
reaction or if his resin (polyester, I think) that attacked the plastic. I’m left with possibility that resin doesn't like some plastics - if its OK with scenic materials I’ll be happy but Id like to add underwater plastic figures. So
more little resin ponds to test them I think. (I think I may use an effigy of my boss…or my husband :)
Thanks again Kathy, great to have these vids - are you doing more close-ups? - macro mode can work very well.
Vikki. Glad to have helped a little with your own pools. If you are worried about the plastics then a test pour would be the safest idea. I usually embed natural materials so have never had a problem yet. Do let us know how they turn out.
Kathy
I'll advise if there are any explosions or any inclusions disintegrates:)
I know this is 3 years back, but have you tried Vallejo Still water?
No I haven’t. Have you?
I have it but have not myself
If you do try it, let me know how it goes please.
I sure will Kathy, I have seen what can be done with it, not bad at all, but not really for larger areas I think, unless poured in small quantities at a time.
My experience is that for making flooded shell holes it is not great, you need a flat surface as it shrinks and conforms to the surface too much which makes very unrealistic finishes. I actually cut it put of my dio and invested in envirotex.
I used Magic Water on Pine Road and like you, I couldn't believe how long it took to dry. After about 4 days I thought it was ok a little rubber to touch but ok. I had a fisherman in a cast white metal boat, Yes he sank, on trying to pull him out it was like a load of treacle. Oh dear . Please note, there was no paint in my mix
Colin, despite the long drying time I do like its rubbery texture as it's easier to trim and I suspect won't shatter like I've seen some resins do on exhibition layouts.
The boat's a real pain. When do you put it in becomes a real worry.
Kathy.
It was the Langley models one a little rowing boat, I thought it would be OK but after a day it had sunk, luckily its not to noticeable as the depth is only about 5mm
At least no major harm done.
All right. At day three your complaint is that it's still wobbly and rubbery. I watched you eyeball measure the product into a single cup. Huge mistake with magic water and Envirotech or any other kind of resin. If you've got two parts then use two different measuring cups use a scale and make sure that your portions are correct and spot on. Especially with magic water. If your magic water is still too soft after 24 hours then you have mixed it wrong. Probably too much Part B. Too much part a the small bottle would have made it hard and faster. But other bad things can happen. I've not had anything really bad happen but Dave said don't do that so I don't. So how do you fix it? Easy mix up a correctly measured smaller portion and just pour it on the surface. It will cure hard on top and the rest of it will be just as beautiful. Magic water does stay a little rubbery for a longer period of time but if your temperature environment is correct warm enough then it will eventually cure Rock hard. The part of its beauty is the elasticity of the product.
It’s not eyeballed. There are measuring marks on the cup. Magic Watee always stays rubbery. It’s not a problem, it’s a strength.
can you combine the two? The best of both worlds?
Resins are very finicky and I would always follow manufacturers’ instructions or they just won’t set.
I just used magic water on my layout and it was hard in 24 hours maybe the formula has been improved
I think it really depends on temperature. I’m finding it sets far quicker in the summer than the winter when my house is rarely more than 18 degrees.
Okay the time factor. You don't need all the time in the world you just need 24 hours if you've mixed it properly. Which you didn't. Also you don't ever want to pour this over a waterfall and expect it to harden as a waterfall. You'll just have a smooth glossy surface and a big puddle at the bottom. Resin is for basins.
I put it over the waterfall to tie the top in to the right level. Works a treat.
Loads of great comments you’ve made. This is a very old video and my workflow is very different now. I’ve moved on from both these products as there are much better options out there for what I do.
Maybe not enough hardner?
+Len Pytlewski I measured it exactly and Magic Water always takes a long time to set for me.
I wonder if you added more hardener if it would set up faster. A little experimentation may yield better results...just a thought .
+Len Pytlewski I probably should experiment more but I did find adding more caused a pattern on the surface so I haven't gone down that route again.
Just two things. One to read the directions. With magic water you sir and sir and star if you have not mixed properly it will not set. Again if you have not mix it properly it will not set. second measure if you have not measured properly that will not set.
I've use Magic Water for years. Any questions that you have about the product you can always call and ask Dave.
Bubbles. With magic water to the Spurs pobbles you use heat a hair dryer will do it. With Enviro techs is carbon dioxide hold your breath. Again there's that reading of the directions to know these things. The only other reason why your set for Magic Water would be 4 days long with a temperature and humidity. It clearly states it is our temperature of 73° or better. I once had a full week cure. But I could not get the room temperature above 68 or so. This is probably one of the worst and negligible comparisons of any two products that I've seen so far. Sadly you happen to pick one that I know very well. You actually picked two that I know very well. My cleaning a link to another video that compares a variety of resins for yellowing. Enviro text is the first one to go ocher. Magic water it isn't part of the test. But it should have been.
czcams.com/video/MzIxcIqCNh8/video.html
The most important thing that you did not bother to test. But you could be testing even as I speak especially if it's been several months since since you did this experiment. And that is the resilience of clarity. Liquitex I'm sorry I keep saying liquitex when I mean Envirotech will yellow. It will over time it will you need to create your Terrain and your basin with such color that it won't really matter if that happens. It won't go okra yellow or anything like that but it will lose its Sparkle. Magic Water takes more time because it is a professional product that does not crack it will not break on you and it will not yellow. Now the sad news I'm not sure that unreal details is still operating I've not been able to get a telephone call back from them and I haven't tried to order anything from them since Dave williams, the creator of the product and the owner of the company, died it's been a couple of years. All the things the tips the facts the knowledge that I've imparted here in my comments are from years of working with the product about 15 years actually and from many times missing something up and actually calling Dave Williams who would call me back on the telephone I would send him pictures and explain what I did he would correct what I did and tell me what to do to make it right. On one occasion when I had the bubble thing happening because of the kind of gravel artificial gravel that I was using, he sent me two additional kits in order to get the project right. It was a tropical island Lagoon that can still be seen on the Magic Water website. Envirotech is is an okay product. I've not been able to find it lately and I've been using amazing clear cast which I understand has a lawsuit going on right now and the caution is to leave very good ventilation and and a mask or respirator. But I've had good results with it so far. I haven't had any pieces of it sitting around long enough to see if it will yellow but I've not been using it for more than a year. So well I appreciate your video you did make some mistakes. You do have to be precise with magic water. Not so much the Envirotech but mixing this product wrong enough or any product that that dries glass hard, you run the risk of big brakes if you pour too deep all at once or if you mix it incorrectly. I watched a video that a guy did and he was pouring two to three inches at a time and twice his resin broke in half in the Cure process. Ruining beautiful work. So instructions matter LOL precise measurement matters! And I hope my comments have been helpful. You can find almost two decades worth of my work on Facebook under the same moniker Plus war game terrain Studio
Loads of comments. This video is over 7 years old and I have moved on in every way from it. Perhaps look at one of my more recent videos with resin in? I use EpoxyPlast which is very forgiving and much nicer to work with than these two.