Envirotex Lite Clear Resin Product Overview
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- čas přidán 31. 03. 2014
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In this product overview, I look at Envirotex Lite, a two part resin commonly used for creating realistic water features for your wargaming table.
I cover all the basics including safety, prepping, common pour problems, add tints and pigments. Finally, I show you a practical application on a murky pond. .
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I am currently working on a huge model train layout and an upcoming task is to "fill" two swamp/pond areas... I learned a lot here that will help me ... Great videos - thank you for sharing - Cheers
This looks like the best material for making ponds. Thank you very much for taking the time to put this informative video together. Great stuff!
+Perkins Dearborn No worries mate,. it's my preferred goto substance for water effects.
Glad to see the pond finally get a worthy finish. Splendid stuff man. Really inspirational!
It deserved it mate, cheers!
I accidentally found your channel and I am so glad. Although I do not make terrains, I wanted to cast in resin, epoxy and make molds, I watched over 100 videos, not one of them went into details about the resin, how they function, causes and removal of bubbles, pigments and thoroughly showed anything like you did. THANK YOU SO MUCH. YOU ARE A BRILIANT TUTOR.
+private91205 Go and checkout Terranscapes mate, Mike does loads of molding / casting! +Terranscapes
Fantastic video. I am building a river and lake on my train table and this information was extremely helpful. The demo on tinting will help me get the colors of my water just as I want them to be. Thanks.
Paul Ward Awesome, glad it helped mate
I'm looking forward to trying this stuff one of these days... Great work as always bro'!!! Cheers!!!
This is a very well structured video that gives a good overview how to use resin. Thanks for doing this, very much appreciated
Can you put charms dry flowers
Really interesting and valuable demo. Thanks for taking the time to do it.
No worries mate, glad you liked it
Thank you for the great tips, first time using this product.
Another great video full of information, thank you. 😊
Awesome video. You showed me everything I wanted to know about that Envirotex. A 10000000 thumbs up!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Cheers mate, glad you found it useful
Fantastic tutorial on this resin stuff, this helps me out tons, thanks.
Runes Hellstrike Glad you've found it helpful mate
WOW. You man produce great quality videos! Awesome stuff! Thanks!
Rafal Maj Thanks for the compliment mate
So helpful and informative. Thank you!
here to help mate
thank you milord for your video it is really helpful truely I bought to envirotex lite and am going to use it to coat a Watusi water buffalo horn for my medieval Renaissance festivals this video is very helpful
+David Hensley glad it helped buddy
TheTerrainTutor it helped eminstly thank you
love your tutorials mate! now I have to go shopping for water materials :)
Cheers mate, let me know what you do with them ;o)
your tutorials are great! nice work mel :)
Thanks matey
Thanks a lot for that resin and resin+colour testing. :)
The pond looks great and now has a very good depth effect. I relly like the shallow regions with algae, etc. :)
Cheers mate, I'm pretty chuffed with it too
Top job mate!
jjab99 Cheers :-)
Great tutorial, amazing job done out there, very informative, and (BTW) great pond :)
Cheers matey, I'm pretty chuffed with how it turned out as well
TheTerrainTutor And you should be :)
Great video.
Thanks for the upload a very informative and helpful
scott phillips Glad it helped buddy :-)
Many ideas from this. Thanks!
Hope it helps bud
Another good one buddy.
Cheers matey
Ok so I am new to this diorama hobby and in the process of making my first one. It has a river scene in it, and I was wondering if I should use an opaque tint for the river color or a transparent tint. The deepest pour is about 19mm and the thinnest pour is about 6.35mm. I want to be able to see some of the boulders at the bottom of the river (at least, somewhat) but I don't necessarily want to see the paint I have used to show depth. So which tint would be better, opaque or transparent? I have seen a lot of folks use opaque tints where I can still see the edges through the resin but not necessarily the painted bottom, or at least it is very faint.
"Watcha call it"..."Ok"..."Yeah". You say that a lot mate haha. Great work.
I know, I've tried to stop it but I can't, at least I'm not saying Right all the time like I used to lol
Cheers mate
great tutorial, nice tips and tricks :)
Cheers mate
Interesting stuff!
It's a lot better than WS's Realistic Water mate
TheTerrainTutor ok il try it ;)
Outstanding, I have played with Resin before when I was leaning about set design but I learnt more watching this then listening to my tutor for 4 hours lol. Also before people start with all the H&S Crap, if you are a young person seek adult help if you want to use this stuff, hes not joking about this is nasty stuff if used wrong;
Cool mate, glad you found educational. Yeah, kids, get an adult and get them to read the instructions!
This is VERY helpful! Thank you for being so clear and concise, while also showing your enjoyment of what you're doing. I'm learning how to make molds and use the resins so I can create a single specific object... I know, a lot of work just to make one item, but it's rather an important item to me. 😉
I purchased a fresnel lens for a light on top of a TARDIS (from the Doctor Who tv show) DVD cabinet I'm making, but since it was a full-size one, and the cabinet will be a little over half the actual size (more 21/32nds, if one wants to be picky, lol), I need to have a fresnel lens with a smaller diameter. Yeah, the shape won't be exact, as it will be shorter on top and bottom than the shape of the original, but I figure I can deal with that when I form my silicone mold. Even so, it will be more exact than anything else I have encountered - well, except for some antique thing I ran across that costs a couple of hundred $... 😲🙄 um, no thanks on that one.
So, I learned how to make my own silicone mold, from CZcams videos, of course. 😄 Next step is to learn about the different kinds of clear resins, how to use them, the safety aspects of each, and the actual handle-ability (is that a word? *shrug*) of each one. I will need to pour it in a flat mold, then curve it around to the diameter I need, which means I need a resin that has a good period of time where it can be shaped after pouring. This particular variety looks to have the qualities I am after, though I don't yet know the pricing for it, and I haven't learned about any of the other types/brands yet, either. Either way, you've been very helpful for my journey, and earned a subscribe and a spot on my list of info for this project of mine. I appreciate the knowledge! 🧠😀🌹💙✔
Now that's dedication to a project!
@@TheTerrainTutor Well, it IS a Doctor Who thing, and us Doctor Who fans can be very ... devoted? Dedicated? Zealous? Fanatical? Obsessed? Yeah, obsessed is probably the word. 😄🤓😁😎
Thanks for your respond, but, that is probably depends on how often you used the same mold over again?
Cheers Mel
+Survivor no worries mate
Now to start off your videos are amazing, I've now just sat and watched a good 3 hours of them, thank you so much for making them. now i know this is a long shot but would you happen to know of any hobby stores that are online, i live in Australia and the hobby community is not to large and all we have really are hobby stores that only do remote control cars. if i could get any help with this at all it would be fantastic.
Ethan Grindal I think RubbishInRubbishOut is better suited to answer as he knows the hobby scene in Oz far better than me. Can you help Ethan out please Viv :-)
Hi Ethan Grindal ... where about's are you in Australia, there are gaming stores all over Australia, I'm surprised you've had trouble finding any! Send me an email, with you location and what you are looking for and I'll point you in the direction of some stores in your area. Cheers (viv@knightsofdice.com)
Brilliant mate. Just what I need. Will GW washes work for tints or will they be too opaque??
Martin McNeil They'll work but the quantity needs may effect how hard the resin comes out, I'd use inks mate, or food colouring matey. Hope the helps, just test first!
Pure Gold mate, top notch info there and some of those effects are amazing, i have ordered some tattoo inks from china, prob not great for human use but i think will work well with resin, mine always go the grainy sort of way with the dye i am using.
Cheers mate, when it comes to resin, inks are inks mate, you'll love the effects.
looking forward to giving it ago i even thing the rubberised once could come in handy for some things :D
just give itr a play mate, you'll love it
Great videos.
Do you have any videos to build molds like you've been showing online?
Greatings from Bavaria.
+Armored Saint soz, haven't covered moldmaking yet mate
Hello, great video. I have two questions, first how deeply can I pour this stuff? I need to go about 2 inches. I'd like to do a single pour as I'll be tinting the mix much like you've done in your video. And second, I would like to simulate blocks of ice. Can I create extra fine air bubbles like those seen in river ice? Thanks, Gene.
+Gene Minger 2inch pour should be fine mate. For the bubble, you'll need a 6 or 8guage hypodermic needle and a syrine and inject them about 30mins in
Great video! Is there any way to make the curing process faster, like heating it, or what ever?
Cheers!
TheBassBones Not with envirotex but there's various other resins that have faster curing times or can have a catalyst mixed with them.
great video..thanks so much!!
+Anita Lee-Yu No worries :-)
I am using Envirotex Lite some years, but only to cover some prints, to make them shiny and protected. I never use this epoxy for casting, and my question is: do you use any release agent to protect silicon molds and be able to use them over and over again with epoxy?
you can get a specific mold release but I've never bothered with it and I've not had any issues yet
Hey im a big fan of your work. I have a request, Can you do an episode of street and sidewalk texture and effects please im making a table kinda like a city terrain thing
Got a couple questions for you if you have the time. I recently purchased a set of terrain tiles from Sally 4th, I got 8 river tiles and I'm looking for how to fill them. I'm wanting to add stones and sand to the bottom of the river before adding water to the top, I'm leaning towards either this or the woodland scenics water, followed with vellijo water effects for the surface to make waves and rapids. I'm wanting the river to be deep, so I'll need to add a couple layers to it. Which would you recommend for this project? And add a color or not? I'm planning on this being used for Bolt Action and want a more realistic effect, we're playing largely in France, tho we have plans for other areas. Thanks for the tips, I plan on using the same flocking technique you used for the Normandy board you made.
If you want to go deep, go with a resin rather than an acrylic mate
what can you use for a mold? I looked at the mold making material and it seemed to be more dangerous than the resin itself. I want to make a prism or something that works like a prism.
RTV Silicone mate
Do you have a video on how to use the envirotex resin on an acrylic table top with photos??
+CJ Fred Sorry mate, not really my thing :-D
Do you just throw away your mixing container or clean it up? If you clean it up, with what and what's the best way to dispose of the cleaning materials safely?
I don't know if you figured it out yet, but like Mel says in the video, you want to use a solvent, rubbing alcohol or isopropyl alcohol should do the trick
@@420StonerShot, that doesn't really answer the question about what to do with the cleaning materials afterwards, but thanks.
great vid, was a bit worried when i saw the health warnings on these in stores but good to know it's easily worked around without much fuss!
Was wondering what you'd think of using it in a blue stuff mold? Was going to make myself a range of bottles and think they should let light through them.
Blue stuff? If you mean silicone, it's fine but use a mold release mate
it's reusable thermo plastic mold maker:
www.greenstuffworld.com/en/reusable-blue-stuff/8-blue-stuff-mold-8-bars.html
Mel, I'm just reviewing your water effect videos. I'm looking to fill a 76mm X 1000mm section of gutter to look like an open sewer. Given the size and depth (ideally I'd like quite a deep fill) what would be the best approach/method/product? Cheers Survivor.
+Survivor envirotex lite mate
Great Work! What did you use for the algae? Just wondering if it's just flock, static grass or something more specialized. Thanks!
buccaneerfilms@gmail.com Cheers mate, it's just standard flock mate, nothing special :-)
Great video!! My hubby and his friends are big D&D fans and players I think I may have found Holiday gift options for them specially the hubby since he will be dm next time around. Thanks but I do have another project I am working on now and need some info. If you do not have a small hand held propane torch is there other options for removing any bubbles? I am working on a memory box for my daughter for graduation it has depressed sides which is where I placed items so the surface is "uneven" because of the pieces.
Carmen Bennett Thanks. If you don't have a torch, just blow on it through a straw like I showed in the vid :-)
Hello! Thank you for posting this video.
I have a couple of question if you don't mind. How do you clean the tools you are using. For example, how do you clean the "mini" jar so to re-use it again? Alchool? Something else?
Second question is, if by any mean you mess up the quantities of resin/hardener, will it take more time to cure 100% and get hard, or will it never cure and get soft and sticky no matter how much time?
Again thank you!
No worries mate.Anything alcohol based with clean the resin while it's still wet, with regards to my plastic pots, I just leave the residue to set and then peel it out the next day then a quick wash with a scourer to get any little bits. The mix has to be pretty far off to stay sticky but generally an off mix will take longer to cure and will end up more like rubber than glass mate. Hope that helps :o)
Really good, but probably overkill for my terrain builds.
Did my own blended foam flock and coloured sawdust....
But yes, any advice on trees and forest basing...
They're on the list matey
I absolutely love your videos! I haven't played 40K in forever but I think I'm going to get back into it just so I can build some cool stuff! Any idea where I can get my hands on some of those neeto molds?
popofabulous Awesome mate, they're called Hirst Arts molds .... www.hirstarts.com/
Holy moly you weren't lying you really do respond to comments! You are the first youtuber to ever respond to one of my comments :) Ty for taking the time to answer me and I will definitely be telling my tabletop gamer friends to subscribe to your channel. I love your videos and I appreciate what you do so much! TY TY TY
popofabulous
no worries buddy, I have to keep my replies short for obvious reasons but I do always reply ;-)
Part of me died inside when you started pouring into the Hirst molds.
Why mate?
TheTerrainTutor "You must use spray mold release or the casting plastic will deteriorate your mold! It does this in two ways. Casting plastic (urethane resin) pulls the moisture from the mold which makes it more brittle (and will eventually crack). Also, the isocyanate in casting plastic attacks the mold." Bruce will be after you, lol.
I'd better get some mold release then, never thought of checking for special instructions for resin, most of my casting is in crystical :o/
probably too late for anyone to notice this comment but I have been using Woodland Scenics Realistic Water for my water scape small ponds and am not happy with the end result. Probably due to not sealing it well enough over the foam board. Plus you cannot place any scenery ie boats on top as it will adhere or mark the surface. Anyway was wondering if I can just pour the Envirotex Lite directly on top without any ill affect.
If you use envirotex in molds, can you prime and paint the resulting pieces?
Yep
amazing video. I am experimenting with alcohol inks on ceramic gloss tiles and am looking for a sealant that will not smear the inks but will give the protection I need from everyday use to the coaster itself. would this be overkill or could I brush a thin layer to seal the tile. If this isn't the right product for what I am doing could you suggest a sealant that would be easier to apply to the alcohol based tile I am working with? Any input would be greatly appreciated. I like that you are very thorough when explaining everything. thanks again. cheers!
+Evie brearley-suarez I'll be honest, that's outside my knowledge area as it's not really done in terrain making mate
cheers! thanks for your honesty greatly appreciated
Evie brearley-suarez I do use this resin with alcohol ink on ceramic tiles also. I pour some right on top of the tiles and use my fingers to spread it evenly on the top and sides. I find it self levels. I found that it will not effect the ink. I do find that you do have to torch it more than once.
It's a pity that those big bubbles pop as they cure. A few large bubbles would look great in a scum pond or slime hole. But in my experience these things usually become hollow cavities as they dry. This is a great video though-I've been looking into some good products to reproduce the look of water. I appreciate your taking the time to give us the info on it. It save a lot of trial and error and using expensive product.
Chris Melvin For actual bubble effects, use a hypodermic needle with a syringe and inject them in once the resin gets you gooey stage mate. Glad it was helpful :-)
Yeah actually that was very helpful! I'll definitely remember that. You have lots of good insights. Thanks for sharing!
Does the Envirotex generate heat as it cures? I’m planning on using the resin as a water feature over an XPS base that will only be painted as of now and am concerned that the curing wil “burn” the XPS.. Thx for great videos!
It does but it won't get hot enough to touch xps mate. If in doubt, give the water bed a coat of gloss varnish before you do your pour. Obviously wait till it dries before the pour bud ;-)
Thx Mel!
I guess I'll have to invest in specific resin dye. So far I've been using alcohol based inks to tint my envirotex lite but it just doesn't seem to work too well. The color just doesn't come out quite enough where as these dyes really seem to color it quite well. I think the alcohol inks have less pigment than the resin dyes.
To get a proper river color with a blue base color painted under it, do you reckon a mix of 1 blue 1 green 1 brown drop of resin dye would be good?
Also what brand of resin dye would you recommend?
It's the alcohol that's the issue mate, it's a solvent for envirotex so will really screw with the mix. I've had good results with proper resin dyes (Castin' Craft), tattoo inks and food colourings.
On the mix, it's hard to say because it depends on the volume of resin being mixed. I'd just do some small test pieces first to get the right ratio first and then apply the same ratio just in bigger quantities when you do your river mate.
Hope that helps
TheTerrainTutor Yea that helps a lot. I started having my doubts about my inks when you said the baby wipes (and the alcohol in it) help clean up the resin.
I'll be on the lookout for some resin specific dyes.
The envirotex lite will cure perfectly, no problems on that aspect. Just the coloring is never right.
Go for Castin' Crafts mate, it's from the makers of envoritex so it's perfect
What base do Citadel Paints have, is it water-based, oil-based or acrylic-based?
They're acrylics mate
I made a few resins with envirotex lite, and they came out a little soft (they bend), how long does it usually take for it to completely set after being removed from the mold?
wickedgirlella 24hrs for 98% curish :-) If they're bendy, then it sounds like there wasn't enough hardener in the mix or you've added something (pigment/ink/etc) that's effected the hardener / resin balance. Try adding a little more hardener and see if that helps :-)
TheTerrainTutor thank you (: what do you think about EasyCast? Would you know why it stays really bendy?
@@TheTerrainTutor I wish I knew this yesterday... I added liquid tint and the color faded and the resin ended up soft and bendy. Now I know what to do. Thank you.
I have custom made a jewelry box for a client. custom frame around lid so a mirror can be inserted on under side and a resin overlay can go over the family's chrisoming of their baby. I didn't want ink jet copy to bleed so went to copy place and got laser copy. I sprayed three layers of polyurethane over top and underside of pic. to furter avoid bleeding of the ink. then I used a coat of decopage glue to further seal the upper surface of pic. I let everything thouroly dry between these steps. Idecopage glued the photo to my sealed wooden box lid an worked out and under lying bubbles so it was even . Let dry for two and a half hours, prepared my resin as I've done on other occasions and poured ......I still got spotting marks over the faces of the parents! Thought I had taken all precautions. Now I staring at hours and hours of more work to redo my custom lid with frame. I'm on a tight schedule to finish and start work on another client's project which must be done by Nov. 1st. What can I do? Can the overlay of resin be lifted or removed somehow so I can save the lid and try a repour? I tried calling EnviroTex but of course it is a Saturday and they won't be in until Monday. I feeling desperate. Could you or someone else please advise? I'd be so thankful to get some information. The resin has set for 6 hours now....I didn't think of reaching out for internet help until now.
+Elizabeth Stark Hi Elizabeth, sorry about the late reply, only just got round to catching up on my comments. Unfortunately, you can't lift the resin without damaging what it's sitting on. It sounds like the moisture in the resin reactivated the glue. In the future, I'd recommend sealing it with varnish as that wouldn't be reactivated by the resin. Hope you managed to sort it.
Thanks so much for getting back to me. After fretting about it all day and over night I thought of a way not to redo the whole lid. I ended up making an extra frame around that pic so I'd have depth for more resin and applied another picture over that one after the origional resin was cured . I had a great pour and put the box up high so newly adopted kitten wouldn't get into it.I checked it to make sure bubbles were all out but being short didn't see a couple of tiny ones at the bottom. I picked them with fine needle but then tilted the box a bit to help resin fill in that spot. Don't know but there was an ever so slight swirl in resin from doing that....resin must have been too far into curing. Picture area was 11.5 X 5.5 inches. To make things worse about a quarter inch by five inch area at the bottom never cured right. It was slightly tacky.Never had trouble with the resin curing before and was afraid that I'd make things worse. But I waited two more days then risked a repour and it turned out great. Client was pleased! Whooh, and yea ! Funny thing about Necessity being the Mother of Invention the box lid actually looked better with that extra frame on top.Thanks again for your suggesrion I will do that from now on. Didn't know that the resin would interact with the glue in that way. Happy trails so to say on your work making those beautiful terrains.Wow, really beautiful! LIz ( Wood Designs by Liz)
Elizabeth Stark
Excellent Liz, glad you got it sorted!
Hi, Great video and a great channel! I'm thinking of doing a table for our Bolt Action games and was wondering if you had any ideas on how to make cheap trees? Thanks :-)
It's probably too long to describe mate, checkout TheTerrainGuy, he does awesome bolt action terrain mate
TheTerrainTutor I'll go check it out thanks
This probably has been asked but can you tint the Woodlands Scenics and GW real ater stuff too? Cool terrain piece :-)
Yeah mate, but use either acrylic paint or acrylic inks for best results
Ok, thanks for the hint.
I'll give it a go asap :-)
To which material the envirotex does NOT adhere? I have to make a "frame" for it and then remove it. I tried with styrofoam with no success.
Silicone, have a look for a silicone cake mold, there's hundreds, you'll find one the fits your purpose mate
Hey hey avid watcher here :) I know this is a product review and obvious focussed around Envirotex stuff but in general where you suggest a noob like me gets his hands on some Resin for doing some pools similar to what you did in the vid? I don't need to do too much (maybe 4-5 pools) so don't want to buy a massive load of resin, just looking for something fairly cheap to practise with. Looked at The Range and Hobbycraft (UK based) but neither have any.Cheers and keep up the good work :)
Have a look at glasscast mate
TheTerrainTutor cheers bud :-)
does it work on two parts silicon molds?.
Robert DiStefano yes, quite well as long as the channels aren't to fine.
Hi m8 where do you get the square molds from cheers Lee
Hirst Arts bud
thanks m8
Heya Mr terrain, I am returning to the hobby after a 29 year break, gone are many of the local high street shops where I used to buy all my diorama making supplies! I have managed to buy a few bits n bobs- paints from Games Workshop and model train supplies stores( not very good ones tbh) -however I would love to learn where to go for the likes of flock- foam (polystyrene) mini trees etc. Any advice would be greatly appreciated- BTW I live in the north east -Sunderland. Those moulds look like castle doors etc if they are what and where can I get my grubby paws on some.
I am currently putting together a scene from Game of Thrones with the Dark Sword GoT miniatures- I have just finished my first figure in almost 30 years- Summer the direwolf and have a few other of the characters I'd like to do something nice with.
Thanks for the videos- I have subbed- hope to hear from you soon :)
Excellent mate, the molds are hirsts arts molds, there's a massive range of them on Bruce's site ... www.hirstarts.com/For the polystyrene, look for space board insulation, that's the pink stuff. Trees etc, woodland scenics, jarvis, k&m etc!Hope that helps!
TheTerrainTutor Aww thats fantastic matey Really appreciate your time. I am off cyber shopping.
Some time later:
Wow that site is amazing- I want em all! lol
And again many thanks :)
TheTerrainTutor The link you sent did not work :(
Heya Ethan- try this www.hirstarts.com hope that helps.You can also try out hobbycraft if in the UK also ebay is your friend I pick up a lot of supplies there. I have came a long way since then! I got heavily into the world or universe of Warhammer 40,000 and I am up to my neck in armies terrain and battleboards! Loving every minute of it. :D
Thank you so much i will absolutely buy a lot of these haha.
Hi I am a subscriber to your channel. Sorry I do not follow you at all, because my hearing is not very good with English, but if I understand it correctly in writing. I have a concern regarding the product Envirotex. I live in Buenos Aires, and the weather here varies from 40 degrees in summer and 5 degrees below zero in winter. My model railway in H0, has a river two meters long and on average, about ten centimeters wide. And geography is almost entirely surrounded steep rocks, made of hard plaster. They are stuck fast on a cement base, which has a core of wire mesh. But all this is reclining in pine.
I have at my disposal, two liters of this product, but I'm afraid to pour it in the bed of the river, and then, when hardened, with temperature changes, breaking the plaster rocks or Envirotex same break, for example in summer. This coupled with the humidity that can dilate the wood and push from within, in the part where is the Envirotex.
There is a possibility that this product, destroy with the passing of the seasons, my job? or am I worrying for nothing!
In advance, I appreciate your response. Greetings!
Luis Iturriaga
Don't worry, it'll be fine mate, once set, those temperatures / humidity won't effect it.
Thanks for your words!!! Greetings!!!
using a 4 cup measuring cup with 1/4 c baking soda and 1/4 c vinegar will make 4 cups of carbon dioxide gas, which you can easily pour on the resin. This comes from my 10 year old daughter... SCIENCE!!!
We've done that for launching rockets but I never thought of resin, cheers mate!
OK ALSO FORGTO TO MENTION ABOUT THIS PRODUCT: A PAIN THE THE ****SS, TO PUT IT NICELY!!!
Hey im a big fan of your work. I have a request, Can you do an episode of street and sidewalk texture and effects please im making a table kinda like a city terrain thing
Yeah, I should be able to do that matey. it's on the list!