Love your transparency about your errors. As a wood worker myself, when I began I thought everyone did everything perfect the first time. After making a few mistakes its easy to get down on yourself as you think only you are having these problems. Transparency like this helps people big time.
I really like that you are willing to show your mistakes and how to fix them. That is actually very good information! So many of these people showing their epoxy projects are not showing their failures or their repairs. They make it look unrealistically easy.
Thank you Cynthia! It does take some practice but I hope to be able to show people that if you have a little info before you start you can have a successful project.
Helpful tip for seal coats and problem areas like that, warm up the epoxy first in hot water to make flow almost like water. Gets in every nook and void quicker and easier to releases the bubbles faster before the resin sets up. Also had good success torching a crevice tool and speed setting the epoxy in small holes that won't stop gassing in my seal coats. Keep up the great and informative videos. For all the newbies to live edge 3 seal coats minimum or more till the bubbles stop
Good tip I have little dents in my finished product but I’m leaving it because I’ve spent too much money on this shit lately. The microwave is gonna have to hide it for now and I noticed that using a blow dryer is not as effective as a torch because the blow dryer moves the epoxy out in a circular manner, instead of melting it down flat.
I did a live-edge bar top with an epoxy resin and at first I got a few bubbles. After sanding it down I did a lot of research and tried a new method. After pouring & squeegeeing, I used a heat gun on it, very lightly. You could watch the bubbles disappear, it levelled out real nice, and it was the best finish I've ever had.
I’m telling you . This will be a life saver for my issues with resining my mixed media painting . Good thing I’m planning to do the area with the issue in matte finish . Another you tube lady doing counters showed how to sand down the area to be even with the rest of the piece . The lowest disc I have is 320. My other lower ones are too coarse. Don’t have 220, so hopefully 320 will be good. Practicing on a scrap tun off piece of art resin. Nice table by the way. They look fun to make. Hopefully when covid is over I’ll look for a local class teaching how to make river tables. Anyway. Your tips is saving me grief over a spot where the resin resisted the resin layer below . Gives me hope for my piece and pocket book.
I just did my first Resin project, a wine barrel top, deep pour 2", We had a blow out so lost most of the deep pour resin. I would say that we have 1/4 of the pour in the top. We have lots of bubbles and have embedded cork in a pattern as well. My question is, can i fill in my holes once sanded as you did, with the deep pour resin? We will be doing another pour once all the cracks are sealed. thinking of sealing cracks with clear Gorilla Glue whats your opinion?
Great video, thank you! I have this exact problem with my table and was stressing about how to fix it. Now I see it's fairly easy. Also, where is the video for doing the satin finish? I looked but can't seem to find it. Thank you.
Im currently doing an outside bar top, my seal coat went surprisingly flawless except 1 spot where the heat gun was kept too long on a problem area causing that spot to Hyper harden, having not seen a video YET of approving an outdoor pour the outside temp humidity plus potential bugs, floating dabree in the air, and continous inspection for the 1st 6 hours and keeping the epoxy cool with fans it went pretty good, looking to final pour very soon after sanding and fixing this problem section. Thanks for the advice. Its an 8ft bar made of pallets on wheels 😮 the top itself is made up of 485 triangles 🔺️ placed in a "Harlequin" pattern, cross my fingers it will be funtional, seats 10 and hope it turns out just a beautiful as the indoor models, im not into videoing my LIFE or how toos, its a learning experience.
@@GoodViewWoodworksI'm currently sitting at the outside bar, it's been 5 days since final pour, I'm thinking a lite sanding and buff and polish should be good, it's protected from the sun mostly...and I added blue Mika 💙 looks like the sky on a breezy day. I took a small Dremel and carefully hollowed those bubbles along with sanding and you don't know they were there ...thanks for your videos and CHEERS to you.
Great video man. I'm making my first epoxy table next month and this video realy makes me more confident knowing that I can fix it if I happen to make a mistake and trap air bubbles.
Had I thought ahead I would have mixed a small amount of epoxy before the seal coat and filled all potential "Bleeders" in advance. Using this same technic
I know I am late to the comment party, but so thankful for this video. I just watched the video (all 4 parts) on delivering the table. When I saw it go out I was like oh no the holes!!! I know it is no fun having to redo things, but glad I caught this right after the last video. Great Job!
This channel is great! You made our first project come out almost perfect and if we had followed your tips to the letter it probably would have been perfect. However, we have a spot that we cooked the epoxy with the heat gun and the reaction ran away on us and we got some massive deep bubbles. welll 1/4" deep and maybe a 4"x6" area. Can I just take a router bit and router out that little section and re-pour? How do I prep the routered hole?
Nathan, i used this technic on my first river pour table. I could not figure out how to get rid of divots that kept showing up and I followed your steps and it turned out wonderfully. Thanks for taking the time to show this process. I could not find anyone else that offered this solution. enjoy your presentations. By the way, did you get the mouse???
Hi NathenI hope you're fine ? thank you for the video it was rewarding. I only want to have an idea about the products for polishing to have transparency at the end of the project and thanks in advance 😊
Great videos. There are always imperfections. How do you eliminate bubbles below the surface, or can we get a video on routing out a string of bubbles? Idea would be to add some offsetting colors. thanks
I just did my first table, and did a mistake in the end, after the flood coat, I just poured some epoxy zigzag thinking it would level but it didnt and cured like that. As I don't have more epoxy on hand right now, so can I just wet/dry sand and buff it to glossy surface?
There is always time to redo it. For free!!! Good fix. I've never tried a spot fix before. I keep adding seal coats until it's looking good or I sand and put down a second flood coat.
Thank you SOOO much for this lesson! I thoroughly my table was ruined because of bubbles from not sealing oak wood. Btw, what is the best way to seal wood?
Great video . I'm doing my first charcuterie board . Small void in the black walnut . Filled it with a red resin . The area around the void has a dark stain to it now . Should I be able to sand that out so that just the filled void area is left? Or is my piece stained for good (bad) ? Thanks
Please tell me what grit you used to sand it down. I've tryed 80 grit and it seems like it sand what sealer I put on...next pour more bubbles. Help me please!
That depends on how punky (soft/rotten) the wood is. If it’s solid you can use the coating epoxy. If it’s soft I recommend sealing/stabilizing with casting epoxy.
It’s called a “seal coat”. When you’re using the epoxy as a finish, you need to seal the surface of the wood with 2-3 seal coats of epoxy. The way this is achieved is by spreading a thin layer of epoxy on the surface (about 1 oz per square foot) and letting it cure, then scuff sand and repeat. This will prevent any bubbles coming through the surface.
Random question..... how do you heat your shop? Your shop looks similar to mine and currently mine is freezing cold and it makes it hard to work out there for long periods of time. And the table looks great! Love the color!
I have a question. I have 3 coats down now and have about 6 little bumps ,like maybe dust particles. Can I just sand and repair those spots or do I have to do a complete coverage not just the spots ? Thank. I really enjoy your videos
If the bubbles are in epoxy that I colored blue, should I try to match the repair epoxy with the same dye to match? I don't think it will be exact. Can I do the repair with clear?
Hello, I’m enjoying your work. I laid some epoxy on a table top and keep having bubbles appear in same area. How long after poring can I continue to use heat gun to pop the bubbles?
I’ve had to sand down a table top used 220 grit and now it looks like a white haze even after wiping down with alcohol. I want to add another coat of epoxy. Can I go ahead and put on this new coat or do you suggest I sand with a different grade of paper? Also will this white haze disappear?
I have 3 coats of poly and many tiny pin head bubbles. Can I sand the off the bubbles and what grit would work? I really dont want to sand whole finish off and reapply the poly. Thanks!
What is the difference between casting and counter top resin? I live in 🇬🇧 and haven’t seen “counter top” resin on Amazon. I used one on my counter top (probably casting resin) and there are too many pit holes after it dries.
Tabletop or “countertop “ epoxy is designed to only pour 1/8” thickness and has different properties (scratch resistance, heat resistance, uv resistance) than the deep pour “casting” epoxy. The casting is designed to pour thicker pours and to fill voids. Hope this helps.
@@GoodViewWoodworks oh thanks for responding. Checked Amazon and all I could see is coating and casting resin, but it did mention it could be used on table tops. Should this work for a counter top?
Do you have to sand the entire thing or can you focus on the affected area? And did you wet sand or dry sand. Think i missed you saying anything about it.
I would sand the entire thing so that the surface is uniform. I dry sand to 220 grit before applying a flood coat. If you want to buff it to s as finish, dry sand to 800 grit then buff.
It seems half the people say seal coat leads to a weak bond between wood and epoxy and others say not sealing leads to issues like this. Have you ever had any cracking or strength issues by seal coats?
That all depends if the bubbles are on the surface or throughout the middle of the “river”. If they’re on the surface you can sand the top down and pour another layer. If they’re through the middle of the pour then there really is no way to fix that.
Hello. Ive been working on an epoxy project and I was wondering if you have any tips. I torched the epoxy I think too long. It isnt burnt but the bubbles are white and hardened. Do you have any suggestions?
The only way would be to remove the post that has been torched. You can use a drill or chisel or any method you can to get it out. Then sand the void and pour more epoxy into the void.
Sanding my epoxy resin table, to many imperfections! Now I have many white dots all over, thinking these are more closer to the serfice, I don't have an air compressor to blow them out, canned air doesn't seam to clean them out! I really need help!
Ended up with a small bunch of bubbles but not next to the wood. In the middle of epoxy. Wasn't there after the pour, even 24 hrs after but 48 hrs and boom. I am using router sled to reflatten and take access off. Hopefully that takes care of bubbles.
That’s too bad. I have had this happen before too. If the epoxy is opaque than you can just drill the holes out and put more colored epoxy in the hole. If it’s clear or translucent then it’s really hard to cover up unless you just take the surface down to expose the holes.
1963JamesT yes, you can touch the bubbles when you pour. You never want to use acetone to clean the surface. You should use isopropyl alcohol to clean the surface.
@@1963JamesT even after your torch and your bubbles disappear, sometimes you get these deep bubbles after torching which like he said in the video result from the lack of a seal coat. The bubbles pictured in his video are the types of bubbles that come after the epoxy is already half cured. They show up around 30-45 mins after the project has been sitting and curing.
Hi, I hope you are still there, we used epoxy on our Formica countertops this past weekend, and now we have a lot of very tiny little bubbles, nowhere near as big as the bubbles in your piece, there must have been bubbles in our epoxy. would we need to make injections into all these bubbles?
One the resin is curing....keep on checking it and as soon as you see a bubble hit it with heat gun. I did this 3 times while the resin was curing...works perfect. Also keep the room about 80 degrees.
Love your transparency about your errors. As a wood worker myself, when I began I thought everyone did everything perfect the first time. After making a few mistakes its easy to get down on yourself as you think only you are having these problems. Transparency like this helps people big time.
I really like that you are willing to show your mistakes and how to fix them. That is actually very good information! So many of these people showing their epoxy projects are not showing their failures or their repairs. They make it look unrealistically easy.
Thank you Cynthia! It does take some practice but I hope to be able to show people that if you have a little info before you start you can have a successful project.
Helpful tip for seal coats and problem areas like that, warm up the epoxy first in hot water to make flow almost like water. Gets in every nook and void quicker and easier to releases the bubbles faster before the resin sets up. Also had good success torching a crevice tool and speed setting the epoxy in small holes that won't stop gassing in my seal coats. Keep up the great and informative videos. For all the newbies to live edge 3 seal coats minimum or more till the bubbles stop
Great tips! Thank you
Good tip I have little dents in my finished product but I’m leaving it because I’ve spent too much money on this shit lately. The microwave is gonna have to hide it for now and I noticed that using a blow dryer is not as effective as a torch because the blow dryer moves the epoxy out in a circular manner, instead of melting it down flat.
I did a live-edge bar top with an epoxy resin and at first I got a few bubbles. After sanding it down I did a lot of research and tried a new method. After pouring & squeegeeing, I used a heat gun on it, very lightly. You could watch the bubbles disappear, it levelled out real nice, and it was the best finish I've ever had.
Awesome! Thanks Randy!
'I do not want you to make mistakes I did'. Excellent advice. Thank you Bro being frank and straight forward. All the best.
You just made me relax over my last issue that things are fixable thank you for the low stress method! Appreciate this!
Its Jbunny no problem!!
Just wanted to thank you man, your one of the few that break it down in depth for us beginners!
You’re very welcome!! Thank you for the encouragement!!!
Good video with easy explanation. Wished I'd seen before I started my project.
Excellent video! Very helpful for a beginner in epoxy pouring.
Thank you ! just did my first pour missed a few bubbles. Needed that advice
Thank you very much for show your work! Subscribed! Best regards from Argentina.
great video thanks from NJ. my table is fairly large and the epoxy is quite expensive so rather not pour another top coat. this worked great, thanks!
I’m telling you . This will be a life saver for my issues with resining my mixed media painting . Good thing I’m planning to do the area with the issue in matte finish . Another you tube lady doing counters showed how to sand down the area to be even with the rest of the piece . The lowest disc I have is 320. My other lower ones are too coarse. Don’t have 220, so hopefully 320 will be good. Practicing on a scrap tun off piece of art resin. Nice table by the way. They look fun to make. Hopefully when covid is over I’ll look for a local class teaching how to make river tables. Anyway. Your tips is saving me grief over a spot where the resin resisted the resin layer below . Gives me hope for my piece and pocket book.
Janine Kurzinger thanks for watching and good luck!!
GoodView Woodworks I hope it works because I’m so frustrated with this piece
Very cool, I was wondering how to repair this stuff. And props on the one man show. Subscribed!
Hey man thanks for your expertise in solving my problem...great help!!
I just did my first Resin project, a wine barrel top, deep pour 2", We had a blow out so lost most of the deep pour resin. I would say that we have 1/4 of the pour in the top.
We have lots of bubbles and have embedded cork in a pattern as well. My question is, can i fill in my holes once sanded as you did, with the deep pour resin? We will be doing another pour once all the cracks are sealed. thinking of sealing cracks with clear Gorilla Glue whats your opinion?
Great video, thank you! I have this exact problem with my table and was stressing about how to fix it. Now I see it's fairly easy. Also, where is the video for doing the satin finish? I looked but can't seem to find it. Thank you.
Im currently doing an outside bar top, my seal coat went surprisingly flawless except 1 spot where the heat gun was kept too long on a problem area causing that spot to Hyper harden, having not seen a video YET of approving an outdoor pour the outside temp humidity plus potential bugs, floating dabree in the air, and continous inspection for the 1st 6 hours and keeping the epoxy cool with fans it went pretty good, looking to final pour very soon after sanding and fixing this problem section. Thanks for the advice. Its an 8ft bar made of pallets on wheels 😮 the top itself is made up of 485 triangles 🔺️ placed in a "Harlequin" pattern, cross my fingers it will be funtional, seats 10 and hope it turns out just a beautiful as the indoor models, im not into videoing my LIFE or how toos, its a learning experience.
Good luck! Sounds like a fun project!
@@GoodViewWoodworksI'm currently sitting at the outside bar, it's been 5 days since final pour, I'm thinking a lite sanding and buff and polish should be good, it's protected from the sun mostly...and I added blue Mika 💙 looks like the sky on a breezy day.
I took a small Dremel and carefully hollowed those bubbles along with sanding and you don't know they were there ...thanks for your videos and CHEERS to you.
Thank you !!!! You helped me a lot !! 👏👏👏👏
Great video man. I'm making my first epoxy table next month and this video realy makes me more confident knowing that I can fix it if I happen to make a mistake and trap air bubbles.
Me too. Did two small grill countertops and i have the bubbles. Need them gone asap. Good video.
Had I thought ahead I would have mixed a small amount of epoxy before the seal coat and filled all potential "Bleeders" in advance. Using this same technic
I know I am late to the comment party, but so thankful for this video. I just watched the video (all 4 parts) on delivering the table. When I saw it go out I was like oh no the holes!!! I know it is no fun having to redo things, but glad I caught this right after the last video. Great Job!
Thanks alot! This project was a fun one. But you’re right it’s kinda annoying to have to redo something .
Thanks for the tips Nathan!
What does the temperature need to be? What is a seal coat, do you use the same epoxy
Awesome video, thanks. Those bubbles were driving me crazy! LOL!
I enjoyed your fixing, goid job! How do you get tiny pin hole bubbles out?
This channel is great! You made our first project come out almost perfect and if we had followed your tips to the letter it probably would have been perfect. However, we have a spot that we cooked the epoxy with the heat gun and the reaction ran away on us and we got some massive deep bubbles. welll 1/4" deep and maybe a 4"x6" area. Can I just take a router bit and router out that little section and re-pour? How do I prep the routered hole?
Nathan, i used this technic on my first river pour table. I could not figure out how to get rid of divots that kept showing up and I followed your steps and it turned out wonderfully. Thanks for taking the time to show this process. I could not find anyone else that offered this solution. enjoy your presentations. By the way, did you get the mouse???
Thanks for the tip dude,, I tried my hand at the epoxy art for the first time and I think it turned out pretty good!!
That’s awesome! You should post them up on the Community page.
@@GoodViewWoodworks a couple are Christmas presents for my family on Nov the 23rd so I'll do it after that..so they won't see them!!
Great video and easy to understand explanations. I can’t find the video on how to make it a satin finish?
Thank you for your advies , greating to the mouse🐭 from holland😁
Hi NathenI hope you're fine ? thank you for the video it was rewarding. I only want to have an idea about the products for polishing to have transparency at the end of the project and thanks in advance 😊
Great videos. There are always imperfections. How do you eliminate bubbles below the surface, or can we get a video on routing out a string of bubbles? Idea would be to add some offsetting colors. thanks
Great overview and sharing what to avoid
thank you for the video. Is always see a technique from different ways of doing something.. thank you
What is your preference of epoxy? What brand do you buy
@@charlierivera5725 I go over here to get mine www.goodviewwoodworks.com/recommendations
Amazing video.... How do you clean the holes? I can't seem to clean them there is dust inside i guess... Will it fade out with the pour?
I just did my first table, and did a mistake in the end, after the flood coat, I just poured some epoxy zigzag thinking it would level but it didnt and cured like that.
As I don't have more epoxy on hand right now, so can I just wet/dry sand and buff it to glossy surface?
There is always time to redo it. For free!!! Good fix. I've never tried a spot fix before. I keep adding seal coats until it's looking good or I sand and put down a second flood coat.
Thank you SOOO much for this lesson! I thoroughly my table was ruined because of bubbles from not sealing oak wood. Btw, what is the best way to seal wood?
Can you share the link for the satin finish you were talking about?
Great video . I'm doing my first charcuterie board . Small void in the black walnut . Filled it with a red resin . The area around the void has a dark stain to it now . Should I be able to sand that out so that just the filled void area is left? Or is my piece stained for good (bad) ? Thanks
I’m not sure. Send me a pic to my Instagram or Facebook @goodviewwoodworks and I’ll see if I can better answer your question.
Enjoy the video very helpful what do you use to seal the wood I'm just starting out what's a good epoxy to use for pours
Casting epoxy for deep pours, and table top epoxy for sealing the surface and flood coating the surface.
amzn.to/3dlw6lk
amzn.to/2O2RH9E
Please tell me what grit you used to sand it down. I've tryed 80 grit and it seems like it sand what sealer I put on...next pour more bubbles. Help me please!
Dude you crack me up. Thanks for the video
When doing the seal coat, do you use the coating resin or casting resin please?
That depends on how punky (soft/rotten) the wood is. If it’s solid you can use the coating epoxy. If it’s soft I recommend sealing/stabilizing with casting epoxy.
I notice I have tiny chunks of epoxy after my table dried, do I use the same technique as you did for the bubbles?
ok? do you flood coat again at the end after the holes are filled? How do you get the shine back at the end?
Thanks for the tips, now just have to wait till summer to be able to fix the bubbles on mine.
You’re welcome!!
Thanks.subscribed. what is the sealer you forgot to do? Skipped step doing what? Like waxing?
It’s called a “seal coat”. When you’re using the epoxy as a finish, you need to seal the surface of the wood with 2-3 seal coats of epoxy. The way this is achieved is by spreading a thin layer of epoxy on the surface (about 1 oz per square foot) and letting it cure, then scuff sand and repeat. This will prevent any bubbles coming through the surface.
What Polish Compound do you use to Buff the Table. Can I Polish over 320 Grit or Do I Have to go to a Higher Grit Before Buffing. Tim
Thanks for the information. Did you put another seal coat on then another flood coat? Or did you just put the flood coat on? Thanks
I did 2 more seal coats and then a flood coat.
Thank you for making this video!
Did you drill out the bubbles and refill them?
Great tip, after bubbles are filled and table is sanded what would you put over the whole table to get that gloss finish back?
You pour a flood coat of tabletop epoxy
Hello sir how can i make epoxy resin & hardener.use for rounded Ball shape Coating
Always like your vids. Keep going.
Thanks Mike!!!
Random question..... how do you heat your shop? Your shop looks similar to mine and currently mine is freezing cold and it makes it hard to work out there for long periods of time. And the table looks great! Love the color!
Well not very efficiently that’s for sure. I just have a propane heater and a couple of electric rotating heaters. Nothing fancy
I have a question. I have 3 coats down now and have about 6 little bumps ,like maybe dust particles. Can I just sand and repair those spots or do I have to do a complete coverage not just the spots ? Thank. I really enjoy your videos
You can sand and buff the surface to rid of those bumps 😉
If the bubbles are in epoxy that I colored blue, should I try to match the repair epoxy with the same dye to match? I don't think it will be exact. Can I do the repair with clear?
Your new mouse buddy is going to become an epoxy pro watching you work. Can't wait to subscribe to his channel.
😂
Do they sell mouse PPE on Amazon.
Hello, I’m enjoying your work. I laid some epoxy on a table top and keep having bubbles appear in same area. How long after poring can I continue to use heat gun to pop the bubbles?
You can use it until it starts to set up(harden).
What do you use to seal
Thanks man.. and it sucks when is about to get solid epoxy lolo... bro by any chance do you do lives stream?
Yeah, I live stream every Tuesday evening at 7:15 EST
Thanks, I really diD a Jon on my pour.
Thank you it's really help
When will the satin finish video be posted?
Wow great job
I’ve had to sand down a table top used 220 grit and now it looks like a white haze even after wiping down with alcohol. I want to add another coat of epoxy. Can I go ahead and put on this new coat or do you suggest I sand with a different grade of paper? Also will this white haze disappear?
It will turn back to clear once you add your finish coat of epoxy. No extra sanding needed
It would have been nice too see not only how to fixe it, but how did it look after you fixed and project was finished.
How long do you wait between seal coats? Like your videos. Thanks
I wait until it’s cured then scuff sand. Thanks for asking!
I have 3 coats of poly and many tiny pin head bubbles. Can I sand the off the bubbles and what grit would work? I really dont want to sand whole finish off and reapply the poly. Thanks!
320 grit would be best.
What is the difference between casting and counter top resin? I live in 🇬🇧 and haven’t seen “counter top” resin on Amazon. I used one on my counter top (probably casting resin) and there are too many pit holes after it dries.
Tabletop or “countertop “ epoxy is designed to only pour 1/8” thickness and has different properties (scratch resistance, heat resistance, uv resistance) than the deep pour “casting” epoxy. The casting is designed to pour thicker pours and to fill voids. Hope this helps.
@@GoodViewWoodworks oh thanks for responding. Checked Amazon and all I could see is coating and casting resin, but it did mention it could be used on table tops. Should this work for a counter top?
Try this:
amzn.to/2XdpukA
@@GoodViewWoodworks oh thank you!
Thanks for the video. I have a spot that cured to fast and had lots of deep bubbles. Do you know what caused that? Thanks
Usually this because the epoxy was either poured to thick or that the temp in the room was too high.
@@GoodViewWoodworks ok thanks. I’m seeing it has to be with the fireplace. House is a little warm.
Do you have to sand the entire thing or can you focus on the affected area? And did you wet sand or dry sand. Think i missed you saying anything about it.
I would sand the entire thing so that the surface is uniform. I dry sand to 220 grit before applying a flood coat. If you want to buff it to s as finish, dry sand to 800 grit then buff.
Fist time doing epoxy table. Is using a squeegee needed or could you just skip that and sand down the area after cured?
It’s not necessary. However we’re just trying to get a thin coat of epoxy on the surface to seal the wood.
I was wondering how you fix air bubbles. Thanks for the tipth
😂🤣 thir can you thpare a tipth?
What if it’s on the edge of the countertop? My problem is it keeps dripping. Should I form it ?
It seems half the people say seal coat leads to a weak bond between wood and epoxy and others say not sealing leads to issues like this. Have you ever had any cracking or strength issues by seal coats?
Can you use CA glue to fill a bubble in your seal coat or should you fill the bubble with epoxy?
Thanks
You can definitely use ca glue on the seal coats!
Thank you!!
Ty much for this video.
What do you mean by seal coat? Super thin coat of epoxy? Polyurethane? Shellac? Help
Hey is there a finished product video for these videos??
Hey, if you have a transparent resin and there are bubbles everywhere. Is it possible to fix it, or make it less visible?
That all depends if the bubbles are on the surface or throughout the middle of the “river”. If they’re on the surface you can sand the top down and pour another layer. If they’re through the middle of the pour then there really is no way to fix that.
Hello. Ive been working on an epoxy project and I was wondering if you have any tips. I torched the epoxy I think too long. It isnt burnt but the bubbles are white and hardened. Do you have any suggestions?
The only way would be to remove the post that has been torched. You can use a drill or chisel or any method you can to get it out. Then sand the void and pour more epoxy into the void.
@@GoodViewWoodworks ok thanks
After your first seal coat try a burn -n- stick for the stubbern air holes, Mike has a few videos on that and it works,
Yeah I have seen that. Thanks Michele!
How thick was that pour? Do you remember what temperature it was in your shop as the table was curing?
It was 2.5” thick and around 60°F in the shop.
Which Silica mixing in epoxy Hardener if u know?
I’m not sure what you’re asking
How can we do ball shape Epoxy resin coating..can I mixing Any silica in side the resin ya Hardener ?
My Business r Resin Art Jewellery
After filling those spots , can't we finish it gloss. Does that repair be seen on gloss finish that is why the solution is to finish satin?
Sanding my epoxy resin table, to many imperfections! Now I have many white dots all over, thinking these are more closer to the serfice, I don't have an air compressor to blow them out, canned air doesn't seam to clean them out! I really need help!
Send me an email with pics to goodviewwoodworks@gmail.com
Do u have to sand the whole thing if you have like minor lint bumps?
Not necessarily. You can sand the individual spots then buff it back to shine.
Ended up with a small bunch of bubbles but not next to the wood. In the middle of epoxy. Wasn't there after the pour, even 24 hrs after but 48 hrs and boom. I am using router sled to reflatten and take access off. Hopefully that takes care of bubbles.
That’s too bad. I have had this happen before too. If the epoxy is opaque than you can just drill the holes out and put more colored epoxy in the hole. If it’s clear or translucent then it’s really hard to cover up unless you just take the surface down to expose the holes.
@@GoodViewWoodworks It's opaque. I'll go over it with router sled. Hopefully they arent deep
What do you use for a seal coat?
The same epoxy that we used for the top coat
@@GoodViewWoodworks you just use a thinner coat I’m assuming?
How would you do this if it were bubbles in spar varnish?
Love your dog......
nice video.
cant you torch the bubbles away when you pour?
shouldn't you clean the surface with acetone before you re-epoxy?
thanks
1963JamesT yes, you can touch the bubbles when you pour. You never want to use acetone to clean the surface. You should use isopropyl alcohol to clean the surface.
yeah, thanks. I meant torch with a flame or heat source to make the bubbles disappear.
1963JamesT yes you’re correct 😊
@@1963JamesT even after your torch and your bubbles disappear, sometimes you get these deep bubbles after torching which like he said in the video result from the lack of a seal coat. The bubbles pictured in his video are the types of bubbles that come after the epoxy is already half cured. They show up around 30-45 mins after the project has been sitting and curing.
@@michellealmonte6595 100% I torched mine, no bubbles. 12 hours later I have tons of bubbles and am now on this video 😂
Hi, I hope you are still there, we used epoxy on our Formica countertops this past weekend, and now we have a lot of very tiny little bubbles, nowhere near as big as the bubbles in your piece, there must have been bubbles in our epoxy. would we need to make injections into all these bubbles?
More than likely you just need to sand the surface and red coat with more epoxy
@@GoodViewWoodworks thank you so much for responding
One the resin is curing....keep on checking it and as soon as you see a bubble hit it with heat gun. I did this 3 times while the resin was curing...works perfect.
Also keep the room about 80 degrees.
Hi couldn’t you just scrape the all surface a few millimeters and redue the all surface with epoxy? Thanks for the video...
What is used for seal coat?
The same countertop epoxy used for flood coat. Just spread very thin
Can you polish it back to a glossy shine after ?
Yes you can!