5 Ways to Get Bubbles Out of Resin | Resin ART
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- čas přidán 7. 05. 2020
- Today I ’m going to introduce 5 easy ways to get bubbles out of resin
1. Wait for the bubbles to disappear
2. Use hot water of about 60 degrees to accelerate the bubbles out from the resin
3. Use heated coasters to accelerate the bubble out from resin, it is very simple
4. Use lighter or hair dryer to heat the resin surface to eliminate air bubbles
5. Use a vacuum pump to quickly remove bubbles from the resin
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There's a sixth way. If you're using silicone moulds you can warm the mould in the oven before pouring the resin in it. Take the mould out of the oven, let it air for a few seconds and then pour the resin in. The warmth of the mould will get rid of the bubbles in the resin.
Any degree? Time?
Why thank you so very much 😻🎨
@@Chris.Rhodes Silicon can withstand temperatures from way above 200°C without deforming so you could put it in the oven on a high temperature for a short time or on a lower temperature for a bit longer time. I usually put the oven on 175°C and warm the mould for about 15 minutes.
Recently I use a large room in the attic for my hobbies and since I don't have an oven upstairs I use a cup warmer to warm the resin. Works just as well. I just plug the little warmer in, when it's hot I put the cup with the resin on it and leave it for about 10 minutes before pouring it slowly into the mould.
What also helps is mixing the two parts gently. The harder/wilder you stir, the more bubbles you create.
@@anitaschilder thanks for this. I appreciate it
I have a Dehydrator I use for drying my firework stars and black powder an I stick my silicone mold in it for a good while at 140 degree's to warm them up, I like using it because it's hot air warming it up and not straight up HEAT.
I tried the hacks that didn’t need a gadget and was unsuccessful. However, I accidentally discovered that by warming up part A and Part B in their separate bottles worked like a charm! I was cleaning up my workspace and moved the bottles to the window where the morning sun comes through. When I poured both parts and stirred up, I found my resin to be clearer than ever before
@@Dante190186 only if there’s lots of bubbles remaining, which isn’t all the time. I use my heat gun
@@laurawhittaker7217 using heat gun is more effective than torch? Sorry I'm newbie here✌️
@@anicaica well, I wouldn’t want to use my torch while the epoxy was still in the container, especially if I’m using a medicine type cup as it will melt the plastic cup. Also, even if I use the silicone cup to mix up my epoxy, I could accidentally burn myself or anything near the cup. However, I do use my torch every so often after the epoxy is applied to my tumbler surface instead of a heat gun to pop bubbles. Using the heat gun would move your epoxy around because it blows hot air. If your intent is to move your epoxy to get motion in your design then a heat gun is the way to go. There’s no one way to do things. Continue to browse CZcams for methods that works for you. Good luck
@@laurawhittaker7217 “continue to browse CZcams for methods” is basically my answer to all of life’s questions
@@Dante190186 I do, I actually just place my closed bottles back in a bowl and fill up with hot tap water, by the time I need it again it’s ready for me. You’ll see the harder will be a lot easier to mix with the resin when warmed up.
Also mixing fast will cause bubbles and when pouring your hardener and resin you should pour it against the side of your cup instead of directly in to avoid causing more bubbles.
But the mixing it together cause bubbles
Basically like pouring a pint.
Aoleon I always get bubbles no matter what. Even after I’ve used a torch or a heat tool to pop them. It looks smooth but when I come back there are more bubbles and things that look like strands of hair but it’s not hair.
I’m sure they just mixed it fast to make bubbles just for the bubble eradicating video.
@@malakaziz3642 Lol, no. If you mix it slowly for 10-15 mins, it will be bubble less, maybe only on top, and you can use alcohol for that.
Interesting! Though working with larger pieces, I think I’d be concerned that my resin would set faster than I would like it to set. Still, I do believe storing the resin and hardener(prior to mixing) in a warm area could definitely be helpful. The comments on this post were especially helpful. 😊
Storing part "A" and "B" in foam insulation with coaster warmers in both storage chambers makes the resin thinner so it mixes easier and helps it last for up to 7 -12 years of storage. A few bubbles form in the first place when using pre-warmed resins. Polishing the surface with a propane torch is a "MUST-DO" step in any case since pouring creates a few extra bubbles at the edges and corners.
My first resin pour was in 1974 omg. BEST way if you make art to sell and need to be very productive: HEAT room to 72 degrees or more, HEAT resin in a warm water bath - I even add my container to water bath, pour in resin on side of container, pour in hardener on side of container, stir slowly in figure 8 scraping sides, bottom, and stir stick for at least 3 minutes, depending on resin brand. Voila!
That's a very useful tip.
Every time I made jewelry for accessories, there was one or two bubbles, so I could untie them well. Thank you.
Thanks for sharing, this helped speed up my pours! My fave is the hot water method followed by blowtorch after the pour. This is good for small pours, for larger thicker pours, anything over 3", I don't think you can avoid the vacuum pot if you want perfect results.
Haha! #5! Yes, because we all have a vacuum pump laying around somewhere. Thanks for the tips!
I do
I made one......that is what CZcams is for.@@JezzyCrazyTV
I always found that a good way to prevent bubbles is to take more care while mixing - mix more slowly and for a longer time - you can achieve equally thorough mixing while introducing almost no air and the overall time you take out of the resin's pot life can be similar as when you mix vigorously and then try to get air bubbles out again.
Have you tried a stirrer with a wide paddle well below the surface and a narrow stem?
Is there a particular stirrer that you use?
@@lpmwalker_of_sky1903 I use a long stick of 3mm acrylic, about 15 mm wide. because of the flat edges, it lets me scrape the bottom and the walls of the mixing container. But as Wiliam suggested, something wider at the bottom and with a thinner stem could work well too. But it would have to be a stronger material. Also, having a rectangular mixing stick allows for esier removal of hardened epoxy, so you can reuse it almost indefinitely.
Right. I see so many go at it like they are whipping egg whites into a meringue 🤪
What you say is true for most brands of casting resin. Unfortunately, I discovered that a certain brand is horrible about bubbles - no matter how carefully I stirred the parts together I ended up with so many teeny weeny tiny bubbles that I couldn't see without my glasses. Sadly, because of my laziness about finding my glasses when I was pouring resin to make shot glasses for my friends for Christmas, I didn't see the stupid little bubbles and ruined the gifts I was making. Let me know if you want to know what brand of resin I'm referring to, I'd be happy to tell you in a private message or email.
Es de los videos más útiles que eh visto en youtube en mi vida, felicitaciones por el trabajo y gracias.
by the time I wait for any of these methods my resin is already curing
yeah mine says its good for 45 min after you mix but its more like 20-30min.
Yea same here mine only lasts 40 min before it starts to cure. And coz of the heat where I am it cures a lot faster
then you may need to change to a slower resin, there are many types of resin😉😉
I put my mixing cup into hot water and mix the resin while the cup is in the hot water. Helps so much! Barely any bubbles. I also mix very slow. Then I hit it with the touch once its applied and it usually get the remaining bubbles out. I use a resin with a 30 min window
Shaneese Hillemann smart!!
Thank u for making this video. It's very helpful information to me since I'm trying to make something using epoxy resin.
ججن
This is the Best Comment Section I've ever visited...I see it as a round table, you guys are just talkin like you've known each other for years. Thanks All you guys!!! Too much fun 🐞
Fr
Thank you for explaining the different options in your videos 👍
Sir, that lighter looks like a lethal weapon
This comment made my day 😆😆😆
hhhhhhh
Can't touch me.
I have diplomatic immunity ~
:D
Hahaha
lol its called a blowtorch
If you warm the two separately before you mix you won't introduce as much air in the first place. Then follow up with above of choice.
This works best for me
Thank you!!! I love the hot water.
It depends on the resin used. I've had unpleasant experiences with two resins when placed in water. I actually prefer the heat gun (blower). Thank you for sharing. ♥️👍
Wrap the resin cup w plastic wrap 1st to avoid moisture getting in
@@teekotrain6845 Good idea. Will try it. ♥️👍
Will that burn the silicone ?
Tae Aubrey yup
@@taeaubrey4309 if you're an idiot and have no idea how to use a heat gun. You have to REALLY fuck up to burn silicone
Good video! I think I'll go with the warm water method for my first project, looks simple and effective. Thanks for making this video!
yobrojoost, you are welcome, I'm glad you like my resin work, thank you. 😊
Thank you so much for this video...Had so many questions and you answered them all...I love your work and thank you for sharing...God bless
Really useful comparison!
I would love to see 2 additional methods compared: spin-molding using a centrifuge, and using a vibrating table / agitator.
I have also tried putting it on top of the tablesaw and turning it on for a few minutes.
interesting! Never thought to do this
The hair dye gave me the answer I needed cause I was wondering who I would get "flesh" color in my resin and how to get the bubbles out thanks mate ur a life safer🙏🏼❤️
I work in STEM and have been at an aerospace company. The pros use a centrifuge for basic stuff. For high reliability applications, they follow up with a vacuum. The 1-2 like that means way less foam since almost all the bubbles are on the surface. Oh and BTW the pros also don't mix by hand. They start with a swizzle stick mixer so what comes out the nozzle is already mixed.
The trick with forced convection from heat seemed good but I suppose it will accelerate the curing which could be a problem in many cases when the pouring time is critical.
That's why I would go for the vacuum method.
Thanks for the tips! may I know what kind of resin you use?thats the slowest resin I've seen harden up
很好的视频。我用过热水和真空桶。那个加热垫也不错，👍
Great vid where did you get your glass pot! I’ve used a torch and it works great but deep pours need a vacuum
Thank you So much-!!!!!!!
This will Hopefully save many future creations from being flawed with bubbles :)
The vacuum-method works great, but its barely possible to pevent a huge amount of foam. You also need a special vacuum-pump, which can't be used for many purposes.
A compressor (usable for for many purposes) in combination with a pressure pot leads to slightly better results, but without foam building.
However, both metods require special equipment, and payout for larger amounts of resin.
And all methods shorten curing time.
Thank you so much! I’m starting up with resin jewellery business but am struggling with all the micro bubbles in this cold weather here in England! Going to try the heated coaster
Thanks for providing detailed instructions for your video.
You can avoid bubble since very beginning when you mix n stir the resin, the key is how to stir, i use T propeller i made my self and attach the propeller to cordless drill/screwdriver, and run it, make sure the propeller sink deep on the resin on the process, don't lift it until it mixed ..(when you lift the propeller that still run in the process it will instantly create a lot of bubble)..
Hey, nice idea. I am going to make T stirrer then.
@@kaikart123 how did you make t stirrer
This is a perfect video, thank you very much! I'm going to try hot water and the heating coaster, it's interesting! Hope plastic cup will not melt ))
Using lighter may cause deformation of the top layer (or maybe it depends on a resin, because I had such an experience just for couple of times). It was really cool to see the vacuum machine effect! ))
This was really very helpful! Thank you so much for sharing this!👏👏 I'm subscribing to your channel! Thanks again. 💜 Pam 😊
Thank you soooo much. I am in doubt between a vacuum and a pressure pot. You gave me a really good vieuw on how the vacuum works. This wil definitly make my decision easier. :)
Always use gloves when handling resin, folks!
Yea lol 😂 I’m always forgetting till I get some on my fingers and I’m like dang lol sticky and crappy
@@jennyconfer2483 9ñ
@@jennyconfer2483 ⁰0⁰00⁰0
And a mask! Even if the resin states it’s non-toxic you should always wear PPE with a proper filtering mask. Resin toxicity is a real risk and can cause severe damage. Please be careful.
Realize that yesterday when I get my hands covered with resin and washed them with hot water 🕳🚶🏽♀️
I was gonna say 3 and 5, 3 is much cheaper and only a few minutes wait. You can also heat the molds to 150F or so (Check the temp limits on your mold silicone) then pour the resin in and the bubbles disappear as you are pouring. It works really well just make sure of the heat toleration's of the material you plan to use first. 3 has been a go to for me since they came out and a usb humb can make it easy to have multiple colors going at once for whatever you may need.
How long do you leave it on the heated coaster .
Thank you, very needed information.
the chart is super helpful, thank you for making this vid!
I’ve been doing the hot water method since I first started resin. I researched resin and everything for months before ever trying to use it and that was my very first way and my only way beside the lighter at the end for the few minor air bubbles I get when it’s poured into the mold
Same here. Exactly
Can you please tell me the name of resin you use
@@chamathfonseka7529 Not sure to whom your query was directed, but for me personally, I like Stone Coat and Faux Rizzle the best.
This is something that you'll have to explore for yourself though and figure out what works best for your particular style of art. For instance, I absolutely hate "Art Resin" and multitudes of others love the stuff. I find it fragile, soft and intolerant to polishing out defects. My only real advice is to buy the smallest quantity that a company sells, and see how you like it and do that with several companies before you decide who will be your go to supplier. Resin is absurdly expensive and you don't want to get stuck with 2 gallons of stuff you don't like and hundreds of dollars wasted.
Best of luck to you. 🙏
@@Im2Old4ThisShite Faux Rizzle? Fo shizzle!
@@ken481959 My Nizzle!! 😁🤭😎
Learned a nice trick - heat. But flame might not always be desirable because the chemicals may be flammable. As a MicroSection Tech, I've made plenty of resins and mounted quite a few specimens. Air bubbles were always an issue. The way I removed bubbles was to incorporate a centrifuge. Would drive resin deep into the mold and molded parts while forcing the air out. And it took typically 2 to 5 minutes, depending on the part being encapsulated.
The vacuum chamber - I wouldn't recommend that. I saw outgassing going on in your video. Meaning there was no air bubble but one appeared as the gasses were pulled out of the chemicals. And sometimes that can leave even more bubbles.
Oh, and your chamber lid had a crack, which appeared to be worse at the end. Vacuum chambers can be dangerous when they burst. Sure they implode, but that just means high velocity shrapnel flying around and bouncing back up in your face. I would not recommend vacuum.
This gives me an idea with an old salad spinner....
No, I say the lighter is best ! Of course I haven't personally tested any of them myself so I could be totally wrong. But for the time frame alone, I'd choose the lighter. 🤷🏻♀️😉
Thanks for the video ! It was perfect for what I was hoping to find on bubble removal for resin. 👍🏻😍
Great idea, thanks for shearing
Muchísimas gracias por compartir ese video, así vamos aprendiendo los que estamos empezando a meternos en el mundo de la resina, un saludo muy cordial desde Costa Rica, Centroamérica.
DIOS lo bendiga.
Interesting. I've seen a pressure chamber used for two-part silicon molds with resin to get air bubbles out.
Will a positive pressure chamber work like the vacuum chamber?
I've watched many videos on resin casting and it seems (I have one now) pressure pots work great just limited on size and a vacuum pump is used more pulling moisture out of wood. I did a pour with my pot and after 8 hours had zero bubbles. It was clear as glass. But after experimenting I've found many times I like the Bubble look especially when pouring dice. If pouring for wood turning you want all those bubble out or it can chip easily.
Hi...liked your video, very well illustrated all the methods, just want to know that the total timing for the vacuum method you suggested is 6 min so out of this how much time do we need to hold the pressure?
That was great! I believe that the vacuuming and then putting it in a pressure pot is the very best.
you are right👍
Always remember to stir carefully and slowly, minimize the amount of bubbles
I think the atmosphere temperature as well as the brand of resin has a lot to do with bubbles appearing. It was so cold here before Christmas, even inside the house... I never thought the temperature of my work space would matter as much as it does.
yeah, lemme just grab my vacuum pump...LMBO. Thanks for this video! =)
Great video, needed to know exactly those things you helped me with - how to get rid of the bubbles from the epoxy and what was the other ingredient people in yt were adding - hardener. Ty!
Excelente video...pero me pregunto que pasa con la resina con el calor, ya sea agua caliente o directo, sabiendo que la resina toma consistencia con el calor....debo poner menos endurecedor???? gracias
IDK what epoxy he used, but most will start to cure if left alone, mixed for 15 minutes. If you place your measued epoxy in a water bath before you mix you shouldn't get bubbles, if you still get some place it back in the warm water for a few seconds.
Do you mean to put both the resin and the hardener in warm water separately before mixing them? How warm?
Mine doesn't cure if I left alone for 20 mins alone. This isn't that much epoxy to cause big troubles, especially if it is slow curing. Which can handle even 5-6cm depth.
I put part A in my Scentsy warmer with a small amount of water
@@nikkialfieri6228 ohhh maybe I should try that.
For the water bath method, I usually keep the resin bottles part A & B in a bowl of warm water for a few hours, and the mixture cup in the bowl of warm water also while stirring for at least 3-4 mins.. ++ Avoid lifting the stir stick in and out of the mixture and be very careful not to get water inside your resin cup, I heard it can ruin the mixture completely!
A pressure chamber is actually recommended for resin, due to the exact thing that happened in #5. Other than that, SUPER HELPFUL!!
Thank you for sharing, I've just bought the vacuum pot.
Muy interesante. Pero con el calor no acelera el endurecimiento. Y otra Pregunta donde puedo encontrar resina transparente para hacer organites. A buen precio gracias
Here's one. If you use epoxy with wood, say in a table or jewelry box, you need to paint a layer on the wood first and let it set. UV, regular, doesn't matter except for cure time. Or, you can use shellac first (the clear sanding sealer type). The goal is to coat the wood so it doesn't off-gas. Wood is porous and has trapped air. Wood breathes. You can pour epoxy, flame out the bubbles, and come back well after you can do anything about it to find bubbles. That's the wood off-gassing. Heating the epoxy in this case, no matter the method, won't work. The issue is the wood breathing. Seal your wood, preferably with epoxy, and you won't have a problem. If you also fill any seams with UV resin, you can set it under a strong light or take it outside under a sunny sky for about 30 minutes. That way, when you pour, no leaks either. Never rely on the wood glue in a joint to keep the resin where you want it. You'll be sad.
wow! I use wood all the time and I'm so fristrated because I almost never get a piece with a smooth finish. I put gesso on it... but now maybe I should just do a layer of resin first...
A clock behind every test would have been nice. I know you have a graph at the end but a clock during the whole video would have been better. In addition providing the graphs info at the bottom of the screen during each test would have been a good addition
Had he not used a clock the first time, you would have never said that. The graph in the end was all that was needed.
This is invaluable! Thank you
Großartiges Video. Toll erklärt!
Bro it’s been so long since I’ve looked at an old fashion clock that I thought hours were going by for a second and I was wondering what kind of resin he was using that cured so slow 😂😂😂
You guys do know that heating up the activated resin SIGNIFICANTLY accelerates the hardening shortening the working time and depending on you batch size and temperature can auto-ignite.
Hot water made mine so hard lmao it was my first time makin a ashtray. This video caused me my whole cup of this stuff😂😂sit it in hot water my butt lol
Same happened to me, wasted a whole cup of resin doing this! Ended up with a blob of hardened gooey mess.
Learned that the hard way literally. Wasted so much.
Exothermic run-away is no joke
@@williamchamberlain2263 I'm pretty sure chuck norris directed that movie, exothermic run-away...
Gracias a todos, por sus consejos, y experiencias. Me evitaron haser un desastre. Como principiante creo q este video es uno de los mejores en respuestas. Gracias ❤❤❤❤
Thank you for the wonderful tips 👍
Tips to avoid bubbles
Warm both the hardener and resin in their containers.
Pour both of em slowly into the mixing cups
Mix gently and slowly
Warm the cup again
Pour the mix into the mould slowly.
Don't use a heat gun since it will ruin and disperse the colours in the mould if u have any.
Don't use a blow torch either.( Unless your really have to, use it from a safe distance since it might make the resin stick to the mould. And make it hard for it to demould.)
Use a safety pin to pop any bubbles if it's a small scale project.
Check out this video, it will teach you how to remove bubbles~~~~~czcams.com/video/zxG-ntrdoJo/video.html
Glad I clicked on this video!!!! I've been scared of not getting the mix just right and I never thought to use a scale like duh 😂
Make sure your resin can be measured by weight. Some are by volume.
Loved this, Hugh help, thank you so very much!
Excellent video! Thanks so much!
Thanks a lot Glen M. Danielsen 😊
And I just spent around $200 for a good pressure pot! I like the heated coaster method and I'm going to try it, mostly for the ease and simplicity. A vacuum chamber can be extremely messy! You have to sit and watch it, controlling the amount of vacuum, or the resin will turn to foam and spill all over the inside, as it did a little in this video.
UPDATE: I used the heated coaster for a while, and it has ruined all of my silicone cups - the bottoms eventually became brittle and the resin wouldn't clean up after it dried. I now use the hot water method, before putting the mold in my pressure pot. I also got a vacuum chamber, which I will use for silicone to make molds with.
Thank you so much Miley onDisney 😊
Pressure pots are more effective anyway!
I use a TON of rubbing alcohol - not necessarily on the resin itself (though there are some methods I would love to try), but as a cleaning agent for most things around my desk. I avoid open flames at all costs. Heat guns are really inexpensive and work great... for regular bubbles. I'm still having problems with microbubbles and am looking at vacuum chambers as we speak.
I am fairly new to resin and mostly use UV resin at this time. I do use a flame to get rid of some of the bubbles in the mold. But I have found a spraying a small amount of alcohol works for me as it evaporates quickly. (I only use the alcohol after using the flame as we all know, alcohol is a flammable.)
Lots of great tips. I take the insert out of my casserole carrier, microwave it for 3 min, and then set the resin cup on it while I’m prepping my project.
when i put my epoxy in hot water it hardened.. whats going wrong?
Thanks!
I'll tri these when I'm tring to make eye balls
Wow 樹脂から気泡をなくすノウハウは
技術です💞
Poured resin for the 3rd time today. After my second pour yesterday my resin was filled wit micro bubbles. I put my resin bottles in a warm water bath then when I poured I stir slowly while aiming my heat gun to the resin. Then pour slowly into the mold. Let’s see what the results are when I pop it out tomorrow. I’m learning with each pour trying to not get upset on my 2 fails. Hopefully this 3rd pour will be better. I’m trying to preserve my rare cactus blooms. Learning the art of resin is expensive and strsssful 😅😩🥴🤯
And very dangerous without proper safety measures and an extremely well-ventilated area.
@@sand3882 really..is it very dangerous ?
@@Isha_Sethi , it's extremely dangerous. Extremely. Some will tell you otherwise, but by the time they find out they were wrong, it will be too late. Don't get me wrong, resin can be gorgeous and OK if done outside with a respirator and eye protection...and in fairly short sessions. About 10 years ago, I met an artist at a top 5 art show in the U.S. When I asked her about her art, she told me she had already had to give that part up because of the damage it had done to her lungs. She was probably 40-50. Many young people now are just jumping in because no one has told them the dangers or the didn't bother to research. Have fun, but please be careful.
San D there’s actually a ton of brands now that carry non toxic resin
@ilovejewelyn You can't preserve flowers in resin without drying them first is silica beads/sand. If you don't do this, the flowers will decay in the resin and turn black or brown due to the moisture in them.
Great video, now I know what I could do, specially knowing how much it will take. Thank you for this...😊
The most effective method is vaccum pumping. Damage caused by heating can be prevented.
It also can be used for filling resin between thin metal lammination.
Can you use something to vibrate the resin? When you pour concrete, you use high-speed vibration to level the slurry, get into all the corners and get rid of air pockets. Would the same work with resin?
I would like to know this also.
Yes, I've seen it done on CZcams with resin before
I'm just starting to watch some of these teaching videos before I attempt my first project. I've had a FoodSaver vacuum sealer for decades and wonder if that would do the same job as the fancy vacuum pump? It came with several size plastic containers and lids and I only ever used it for storing things like flour and baking soda.
Have you tried it?
disculpa, al poner el endurecedor y mezclar las dos partes... al esperar tiempo para q las burbujas salgan, no se endurece la mezcla?
Hi BuzzingFish. Miley's comment aside [though probably true], I want to comment that your video without vocals gave a very visual and informative understanding of how to get the bubbles out of resin. For most enthusiasts and DIY startups like myself, the "pressure pot", though probably the best solution, would be an added investment. Thanks for the insight. Cheers
The pressure pot is good for getting rid of bubbles after pouring the resin. These are good methods to get the bubbles out before the pour, especially if it has a long work time so you don't have to rush before using it. The fewer bubbles during the pour means less bubbles for the pressure pot to squeeze, which can affect the final product as the resin level will go down as the bubbles shrink.
FYI There are two different things being talked about here "Pressure Pot" which adds pressure to the chamber with a compressor and a "vacuum chamber " with a vacuum pump (which was used in the video)
Don't know why I'm saying this here but I feel like sleeping.
it's like asmr
Lol yes I’m like 🛌😴
What resin are you working with? Asking because there are so many different brands out there.
I use the alumilite amazing clear cast. And it asks to use 1 to 1 ratio
Check description
Thank you great tips
Question. Can you tell me how you got the resin to mixing temp before you places it on the heated coaster. My resin is getting super hot in the cup before it can get rid of all the bubbles
I’ve tried using the lighter method on my resin projects and I did it just like you are but it left a brown burnt residue/film...as well as caught fire a couple times. I don’t linger on a spot I keep the flame moving. Any tips?
Use a heat gun instead of a lighter, also even if you keep the lighter moving resin heats as it cures....your basically burning the resin if exposing it to a flame for long periods of time
Can always try a hairdryer...
FIRST METHOD!
Mix it SLOWLY!
It cause less bubble and as time goes your resin will be thicker which is better.
Lighter is not recommended it can ruin the molds because it is hotter than those can handle.
Can I use a foam board as a mould against the resin? Is there a solution you know of that I can use so the foam board can peel away?
I thinks he's mixing fast to introduce as many bubbles as possible.
@@madtabby66 Just do normally then. Slow mixing is the number one rule
@@MovingT5 Apply strips of clear cellotape on the foamboard for easy demolding. Not sure my comment still meets your enquiry but maybe someone else might benefit someday
Ótimas dicas 👏👏👏
Consulta, al esperar a que las burbujas desaparezcan solas de la resina, esto no hace que la resina misma se seque y se endurezca y así no se pueda usar después ?? Gracias
My question is when you use the pressure pot now you have an over flow mess on the bottom of your pot. How do you clean that out or do you just leave it in there? If you leave it does it ruin the pot after so many overflows?
@@thislonelyplanet Hi
Thank you for that. Thing is I miss wrote my question I actually ment the question for the vacuum pot & wrote pressure by mistake. The video used the vacuum without anything in the bottom to protect it from the overflow so I wondered how they took care of that overflow.
I am saving up to get a pressure pot though they are the better choice.
I will be getting one soon too. You must clean it up immediately with alcohol or I think Acetone
I use Ultrasonic cleaner what is used for cleaning sunglasses.
Hola , con el ejemplo del agua caliente , una vez que salieron todas las burbujas , recien ahi se aplica el catalizador ? Gracias .
Awesome, TFS
Thanks... Really....
InDide, you are welcome, I'm glad you like my video, thank you. 😊
"Lighter or hairdryer"
*uses blowtorch*
Lol
Lmao
It’s a mix of both, lmao
Autumn Heib wdym?
Exactly
I like the 1st one - great!
Süper. Pratik ve ucuz çözümler. Kutluyorum.
Has anyone mentioned that the lid of the vaccum chamber has a crack in it?
i have....
Air bubbles when made reason for this video
Vacuum champer pulls in air or out?
i mean at least the glass would break inwards, still would not use it or be anywhere near it
You should use a pressure pot, not a vacuum chamber with resin.
You can also spritz 91% rubbing alcohol onto the resin after you pour into the mold. Works great & you don't run the risk of ruining your molds using a torch! 😉
@John Doe I use a fine mist of 91% rubbing alcohol in a spray bottle. After I pour the resin into the mold, I wait for a few minutes & let the bubbles all rise to the top. Then I lightly tap the mold & give a quick spritz with the alcohol. It pops the bubbles. I never use a torch or candle lighter in fear of accidentally hitting the silicone mold. These molds can be pricey so I don't want to ruin them. The 91% rubbing alcohol works.
가장빠르고 투명한게 진공펌프네요~유익한정보 감사합니다
OMFG AMAZING THAK YOU!