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HVACR AUS
Registrace 28. 10. 2022
Commercial HVACR technician from Melbourne, Australia.
Daikin / 27kW Package Unit is Covered in Ice
Service call for this Daikin Package unit not heating properly.
zhlédnutí: 2 084
Video
Fujitsu Airstage / Pumping Down a 3 Pipe VRF to Add an Extra Indoor Unit
zhlédnutí 1,1KPřed dnem
Pumped down this Fujitsu Airstage Heat Recovery VRF to allow our Mech team to add an extra indoor unit onto this system.
Apac / System Ran But Then Blew an Outdoor Fuse
zhlédnutí 1KPřed 14 dny
Previously tech said system ran fine in it then blew the F3 fuse on the outdoor PCB.
Mitsubishi Electric / Fan Replacement on a PUHZ-YKM & Static Pressure Measurements
zhlédnutí 1KPřed 21 dnem
Returned to site to carry out static pressure measurements and adjust the dip switch settings accordingly. Then, returned with the outdoor fan to replace. Trying to make the best of a bad situation with this install.
Mitsubishi Electric / Replacing the Outdoor Coil on a City Multi VRF
zhlédnutí 1,5KPřed měsícem
We’ve finally come back to replace the coil I repaired on the slave unit on the City Multi YLM
Daikin / Repairing an E3 Fault on a Multi Inverter
zhlédnutí 1,6KPřed měsícem
Service call was for the system not working. Found an E3 fault logged which I have previously investigate and found nothing. This time the HP switch had stuck open.
Mitsubishi Electric / City Multi VRF 6831 Fault Turned into a Lot More
zhlédnutí 2,1KPřed měsícem
Service call for a system pumping out hot air despite the thermostat being blank.
Mitsubishi Electric / City Multi VRF Leak Repair - Part 3
zhlédnutí 1,6KPřed 7 měsíci
Mitsubishi Electric / City Multi VRF Leak Repair - Part 3
Mitsubishi Electric / City Multi VRF Leak Repair - Part 2
zhlédnutí 2,3KPřed 8 měsíci
Mitsubishi Electric / City Multi VRF Leak Repair - Part 2
Mitsubishi Electric / City Multi VRF Leak Repair - Part 1
zhlédnutí 1,1KPřed 8 měsíci
Mitsubishi Electric / City Multi VRF Leak Repair - Part 1
Temperzone / Split Ducted System not Cooling
zhlédnutí 2,1KPřed 8 měsíci
Temperzone / Split Ducted System not Cooling
Mitsubishi Electric / City Multi VRF 5015 Fault
zhlédnutí 2,5KPřed 9 měsíci
Mitsubishi Electric / City Multi VRF 5015 Fault
Daikin VRV III / Inverter Compressor & PCB Replacement on a VRV System - Part 2
zhlédnutí 2KPřed 10 měsíci
Daikin VRV III / Inverter Compressor & PCB Replacement on a VRV System - Part 2
Daikin VRV III / Inverter Compressor & PCB Replacement on a VRV System - Part 1
zhlédnutí 3,9KPřed 10 měsíci
Daikin VRV III / Inverter Compressor & PCB Replacement on a VRV System - Part 1
Actron Air / Commissioning a 25kW Package Unit
zhlédnutí 949Před 10 měsíci
Actron Air / Commissioning a 25kW Package Unit
Mitsubishi Electric / City Multi VRF 6607 Fault
zhlédnutí 6KPřed 10 měsíci
Mitsubishi Electric / City Multi VRF 6607 Fault
LG MultiV 5 / Recommissioning an LG VRF System
zhlédnutí 5KPřed 11 měsíci
LG MultiV 5 / Recommissioning an LG VRF System
Mitsubishi Electric / Multi Head System Runs and Then Turns Off
zhlédnutí 867Před rokem
Mitsubishi Electric / Multi Head System Runs and Then Turns Off
Temperzone / Replacing Two Faulty UC8 PCB’s
zhlédnutí 779Před rokem
Temperzone / Replacing Two Faulty UC8 PCB’s
Walk-in Cool Room Appears to Have Issues
zhlédnutí 768Před rokem
Walk-in Cool Room Appears to Have Issues
Temperzone / Split Ducted System not Working
zhlédnutí 2,2KPřed rokem
Temperzone / Split Ducted System not Working
that looks like the worlds biggest shit show
My suggestion don't waste your money on wd40 shite, buy liquid inox its 1000% better
I haven’t used it before. I’ll give it a try next time. Thanks for the tip mate.
Why not run it on cooling? 🤷
People tend to get annoyed when you blast cold air at them during winter. Water is always my first option.
You found freezer on roof mate 😜
😂
Nice one mate, been recommending my apprentices to watch your videos, always thorough and informative! Keep it up Fun fact one of the boys got their tafe teacher to play some of your videos at tafe when they were at the end of one of their blocks.
That’s really cool to hear! Thanks for sharing that, brought a big smile to my face. Always nice to know people are enjoying the videos.
Niiice. White paircoil and an isolator mounted directly on the unit. The hallmark of a great install!! Oh, and using two 2 core & earth TPS cables for the three phase supply.. love it
The further you look the better it gets 😂
Those fan motors look like the typical American style motors. From what I've seen on HVACR Videos, they've got rubber plugs on each end. Chris says you're supposed to pull the plugs out of the bottom of the motor so any moisture can weep out - as they're not completely sealed like the typical big induction motors we use for indoor fans and all that jazz. Might be worth doing the next time you're out there, they'd probably cop some good temperature swings in winter leading to condensation inside. czcams.com/video/wbKm2jNAZC0/video.html
This particular motor had a weep hole at the bottom already without any rubber plugs inserted. I’ve seen the style you’re referring to though. I don’t use them very often, but definitely something to keep in mind. Love watching HVACR VIDEOS. Learnt a lot from watching his stuff. It’s a great resource.
Surprised it didn't throw a fault, that was an impressive amount of ice!
Seriously right? Pretty crazy it didn’t give spit out anything.
Just when you think you have finished the job or tell yourself this is a quick schrader valve replacement fix. Been there.
Right when you’re least expecting it too 😂
Something i noticed at 12.00 mins when you show outdoor fan rotation, it looks like the fan cowling is missing?
They are on all the outdoors. This whole install is a bit of a shit show. Long story short, we’re going back with the ME cowls and reworking the ductwork. I’ll remeasure the static pressure once’s this is done and adjust the dip switches accordingly.
Shit they forgot the third pipe. Rookies.
😂 it’s unfortunate how common this is
Can you show refrigeration recovery mode settings please
This is a two pipe heat recovery so there is no Refrigerant Recovery Mode as you’re pulling from both sides. The manuals don’t even have it as an option.
I used to get my 2 extension ladders to get those condenser until WORKSAFE told me I can’t use them anymore 🤷 I’m glad my client build a access to those units coz nobody wants to the PM on their aircons 😜
Can’t do that anymore 😂
Could you put the product no. For the mini Nitrogen regulator from ACTROL?
It doesn’t appear to be on their website. Potentially just my local Actrol selling them. Next time I’m in I’ll grab the part number and post it back here.
It’s Tesuco part number is PBT1 not too sure on product code! Found it supplied at my local actrol also
@@jamesmccann8896 Thanks alot, I’ll get one ASAP
So the other half still inside? 😮
Yeah, it didn’t want to leave 😂
The second you see blue leak lock you know there’s dramas ahahha standard
100% 😂
Had the exact same issue on a process chiller, leaking core but someone had squished the port to an oval and the core broke off trying to remove it. Worst part was fishing the bottom end of the depressor out of the pipe then had no choice but to sweat on a new port. Some people man
Such a small thing can cause such big problems.
That the beauty of Fridgy mate
the reason why they are freezing up is because the dipshits that fitted the ducting removed the fan guide/cowl that is normally on the top. the fan is just not doing anything exept free spinning. you need to make something around the fans that fills in the space so the fan can actually generate pressure. this is why your readings are all over the place. dont know how expensive those original cowls are but i would find a way to put those back in.
100%. After releasing this video I got some great feedback back and did a lot of reading into it. I’ll go back after the original cowls are back on and the duct alterations are done to remeasure the static and adjust the dip switches accordingly.
Keep up the good work mate!
Thanks mate.
Good job tech
Thanks mate.
Omfg! Why didn't you remove that hoop iron??
It’s serves a purpose. Condenser is on a rooftop with nothing to break the wind. It doesn’t look the greatest. Have you got a better alternative?
@@hvacraustralia no no no! Remove it just while your working on it. I wasn't saying remove it all together hahah
I think generally to get a reasonable static pressure reading it has to be taken 5 (unsure of exact number) duct diameters downstream from elbows or anything that would cause turbulence. Hard to get that sometimes in real scenarios.
Thanks for the tip mate, appreciate it. I’ve also come to realise that my static pressure readings will be wrong without the cowls present. I’ll need to go back once the cowls and duct reworks have happened to remeasure.
Love it man. Love the tee on the vac.
It’s a great kit. Really speed the process up!
All you need really is a cup of coffee and some doughnuts, enjoy the view!!!!
100% 😂
Beautiful
Snow machine snow ❄️!
You can press the down button on the PCB to do a speed up to bypass the 2 minute timer 👍
Good to know. Thanks mate.
You can make a snowman now!!!!!😅😅😅😅🎉🎉🎉🎉
😂
Cool! 🎉
🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉😂😂😂😂😂
🎉
So what actually caused the fuse blown? The solenoid valve or the crankcase heater? Thanks
The CCH had no reading to earth. I tested everything and the only issue I found was the RV coil. Higher resistance shouldn’t mean more current to blow the fuse however. The terminals on the fuse were also loose. My feeling is a combination of both those things.
I’d rather work on a system like this where I can trace faults than the bullshit u get with Daikin error code flow chart where u end up replacing every single board and the outdoor fans
It’s crazy that some of the end results to their flow charts is just replace boards 😂 Mitsubishi are a bit better in that they have testing points and voltages in their service manuals.
Those hevac controls there proportional bands are a. Pain for that reason
I wouldve ran the liquid line closer to the suction. Not saying it looks bad because it doesnt just my ocd playing lol
Well now that I see it 😂
@@hvacraustralia sorry legend haha no sleep tonight for you
What a balls up of a job that was!. Probably starving the condensers of air aswell that many condenser in one spit and shitty fresh air flow
Also the fan shroud should've be left on and then duct over the top.
It’s a shit show of a job. I have don’t more reading into this and changed my mind on what should be our next step. I underestimated the impact of the missing shrouds. I’ve now recommended we replace them, adjust the ductwork and remeasure the static pressure.
@@hvacraustralia I'm no engineer but I think spiral duct the size of the shroud opening essentially fan blade width would be the go for these. Either way your more switched on cookie than the guys that slap these in the first place 🫡
I ended up recommending a fair few reworks to these units. First choice is getting the manufactures shrouds back on and getting new ductwork, then remeasure the static pressure and go from there. Hopefully they go ahead with it. We’ll see though 😂
Awesome video! With regards to the updates, would you be able to do a video to share what they do?
Next time I do an update I’ll film the entire process and explain what the updates achieve. Sometimes it’s countermeasures to problems they seem in the field and other times it’s new features.
@@hvacraustralia That’s awesome! I’m part of the facilities committee for my church, and we have 3 AE-200s that are on slightly older firmware. I downloaded a copy of the 7.99 firmware and I’m keen to know what it does and what I need to take note of before I upgrade them. While I’m not trained to access the compressors, it’s really neat to know that their firmware can be upgraded. Never knew that before!
The exit point for the added ducts looks heavily restricted by the slats going across. They should have cut them and put a grill in place.
Absolutely. This entire install is a shit show.
Let's just say hypothetically they replaced those acoustic louvre wall grilles for just mesh fencing, pretty much see through - would the increased airflow lead to a reduction in noise, and would the noise levels from outside the compound be about the same as they were with the acoustic walls and units running balls out? food for thought :)
If the end result is more airflow then absolutely. More airflow across the coil means it won’t need to run as hard to maintain the suction pressure on this instance. This is a few issues I’m working through with this one. Yet to land on the next course of action.
I appreciate that you originally thought the static would be wicked high, but actually came back to test it to confirm and was lower than you thought. Some people would just say "it's cooked" without testing. Question for you - why have the fan static setpoints there at all, rather than just letting the fan go flat stick if it ever needs to? Figure it'd be smart enough to know what speed it needs without needing manual adjustment. Also, have you looked at the manuals for those outdoor units to see if they mention anything about ducting like that? Most fans typically have a circular shroud around the blade, looked like those were missing/removed, which would allow air to recirculate around the edges of the blade, lowering their efficiency, requiring them to run at a higher speed to compensate. Edit: looking at those outdoor units, they're missing a pretty substantial shroud around the fan, which I suspect impacts their efficiency quite a bit.
It’s a good point. Give the fan the ability to ramp up to 100% if it needs to. I guess it probably just comes down to wear and tear. If it doesn’t need to ramp up to X RMP’s then why let it. I looked in both the installation manuals and service manuals for these units and it only mentions that you can increase the static if required. Nothing about guidelines on how to install condenser ductwork. I guess they know people do it so they will give you an option to increase static pressure but they don’t really want to give specifications. Maybe a liability thing? I’ve been doing a lot of reading and talking to people about this situation since filming this (filmed this a few weeks ago) and I completely agree with you about the shroud. I believe this is why my static was lower than I thought it would be. The air isn’t being drawn over the fan as designed meaning a lot more turbulence around the fan, resulting in lower airflow across the coil and low suction pressure that I’m seeing. I underestimated its impact. Only issue is, unless they rip off the roof, the only way I see to make it better is to design a makeshift low profile shroud and install it on the ductwork forcing the air over the fan as intended and remeasure the static. The height of the room really messes with any other solution I’ve thought of. It’s a real shit show.
@hvacraustralia Curious to see what they end up doing with it! Shrouds will definitely help that a lot, but you're right, bit of a prick to do it after the fact. Here's a random question for you, have you ever seen one of those outdoor units freeze up outside in free air when it's 20c? Just saw one on the roof of a random building, solid block of ice in direct sunlight. Just defrosted as I'm typing this. Figured they'd defrost waaaaaaay earlier than that.
I changed my recommendations and said we need to make alterations based on getting the shrouds back on. Once they’re back on I’ll remeasure the static pressure and adjust accordingly. Thanks for the feedback. Promoted me to read further into it and get a better understanding. I haven’t seen one, but Ive heard about it happening. I think it was a bypassing valve. Was it a YNW? The look for certain parameters before it goes into defrost. TH3 temp below -5 for X amount of time, compressor durations time from memory.
@hvacraustralia No worries! I always learn a lot digging into stuff like that. It's nice chatting to techs that actually give a shit about getting to the root of the problem. Looking forward to the follow up vid! Seems like it's something that's hard to quantify without actually trying it, but most papers I can see online directly correlate the fan blade tip clearance with static pressure, so in theory shrouds should help a lot! Unfortunately, I have no idea what the units actually were, mainly a refrig apprentice now, don't have much to do with AC. They were just on the top of a random building we don't service. Same circular shroud as all the mitsi's I see on google but more of a square top edge.
Had a good few of these a couple of years ago here in Ireland.
WTAF were they thinking with the ducting....is it some stupid attempt at beauty at the expense of working A/C units....
Pretty much this. Originally the roof wasn’t meant to be there. The installing company also went a bit rogue with the unit locations and ductwork. It’s a real shit show.
Love your commentary!
Thanks mate. Glad you enjoy it.
I have seen already it's happen sometimes because there isn't split ring washer before nut!!
That's totally nuts!
Someone forgot to put it back on??
Looks like it’s just stripped the flat section inside the blade and just kept spinning. Eventually the nut just fell off.
If the extra cut out in the front cover panel bothers you too much, the replacement part number is E27942006 and probably $50-60. Part Description: COVER PANEL (FRONT)
Thanks for that mate. It doesn’t bother me too much 😂 might replace it one day.
👑
😂
Did I hear a fellow Fridgy do the Phosgene cough during the Weld? Another great video.
😂 it was good timing. I didn’t smell anything, but maybe I’m just used to it now.