Attend this recent install of a Actron Air 25kW package unit that our mechanical devision had done to commission it and carried out a basic air balancing.
I was a factory Actron Air service technician back in the day and great to see them still pumping out systems today. Pretty sure they will have some commissioning documentation you can also follow. Funny, that board layout hasn't changed all that much over the years. Cheers Mick
Awesome. I don’t see many of split ducted units. Mostly package unit. I found on their website they have a link to all theirs manuals which is great for future reference.
Thanks for the tip! I don’t do this very often so any help is greatly appreciated. I’d definitely be keen to learn and do more commissioning. Seems like a interesting part of the trade.
@@hvacraustralia I got thrown in the deep end with with Airmaster actually, ended up down in Melbourne with their commissioning technician for 2 weeks! Very interesting part of the trade that often gets overlooked.
How good is that multi screw driver I have one too. I had to make a little modification on mine and glue the tiny springs onto the plastic tabs and now it is great
@@hvacraustralia nah haven't had that issue. My only issue was I dropped it and the tabs came off and the tiny springs flew out so I cut some new springs off a Biro and glued them on and has been great ever since
I assume you’re referring to the system pressures equalising causing that “whoosh” noise? I’ve always thought it’s dependent on what mode you’re in. The RV without power is set for cooling mode, so when the unit is calling for heat it will send a voltage to the coil moving it into heat mode. Even once satisfied the system is still in heat mode so the RV would still be receiving voltage. When you kill power the RV returns to its cooling positing causing the refrigerant to suddenly equalise. I could be wrong, I’ve never read that but that’s just how I’ve always though about it.
There was a flexi connection issue which connected to the duct. It looked off though. I’ll head back to add a flashing over the top. Potentially it’s been measured wrong.
I explained this incredibly poorly 😂 there is a flexi connector (canvas connection) that joins to the solid duct. It’s all sealed inside. The overhang looks to be there for protection of the flexi. It looks strange and I haven’t seen it done this way before. Usually they will just use a section of capping to cover it. Hopefully that makes more sense.
I was a factory Actron Air service technician back in the day and great to see them still pumping out systems today. Pretty sure they will have some commissioning documentation you can also follow. Funny, that board layout hasn't changed all that much over the years. Cheers Mick
Awesome. I don’t see many of split ducted units. Mostly package unit. I found on their website they have a link to all theirs manuals which is great for future reference.
Don’t forget to add in your K factors when taking airflow readings. I think generally a 4 way is around 0.5-0.6.
Thanks for the tip! I don’t do this very often so any help is greatly appreciated. I’d definitely be keen to learn and do more commissioning. Seems like a interesting part of the trade.
@@hvacraustralia
I got thrown in the deep end with with Airmaster actually, ended up down in Melbourne with their commissioning technician for 2 weeks!
Very interesting part of the trade that often gets overlooked.
Great Video mate! What size flexible ducting is used to the grills? it seems like 10inch on video but i might be wrong..
I believe it was 10” but it’s stretching my memory a bit 😂
How good is that multi screw driver I have one too. I had to make a little modification on mine and glue the tiny springs onto the plastic tabs and now it is great
I love the flexibility of it. My only issues has been the inside holders breaking away. Have you had this issue also?
@@hvacraustralia nah haven't had that issue. My only issue was I dropped it and the tabs came off and the tiny springs flew out so I cut some new springs off a Biro and glued them on and has been great ever since
Why does the reversing valve switch when you turn the power off to a heat pump unit?
I assume you’re referring to the system pressures equalising causing that “whoosh” noise? I’ve always thought it’s dependent on what mode you’re in. The RV without power is set for cooling mode, so when the unit is calling for heat it will send a voltage to the coil moving it into heat mode. Even once satisfied the system is still in heat mode so the RV would still be receiving voltage. When you kill power the RV returns to its cooling positing causing the refrigerant to suddenly equalise. I could be wrong, I’ve never read that but that’s just how I’ve always though about it.
Why is that supply duct not flush with the unit?
There was a flexi connection issue which connected to the duct. It looked off though. I’ll head back to add a flashing over the top. Potentially it’s been measured wrong.
Flexi as in the canvas connection from unit to duct?
I explained this incredibly poorly 😂 there is a flexi connector (canvas connection) that joins to the solid duct. It’s all sealed inside. The overhang looks to be there for protection of the flexi. It looks strange and I haven’t seen it done this way before. Usually they will just use a section of capping to cover it. Hopefully that makes more sense.
@@hvacraustralia Fair enough mate thanks for clearing that up hopefully the pigeons can't make a home out of it lol