POR-15 Why it fails: My opinion
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- čas přidán 15. 07. 2024
- I take a look at the por 15 (paint over rust) paint/rust encapsulator and discuss, in my opinion why it fails. This isn't a scientific review of por15, but a discussion of what I have seen and my observations over the years of using it. Por-15 is not a sponsor, I have purchased POR products with my own money, and these opinions are my own. Thanks for watching, Liking and subscribing
por15.com/collections/all?utm... - Auta a dopravní prostředky
I've been using por-15 for more than 25 years. I've used various undercoating 3M is the best and we have used rust converter all of them doing a good job. He's a preparation and time-wise putting it on POR 15 paint on rust as lasted the longest. I put it on the frame of a 1992 Jeep Wrangler and to this day there's no rust on that. But here's a hint; use a big sheet metal screw to the top of the lid and poured into a container that you don't want to use ahain 5:26 cuz it will stick to it. It rolls on great with a small roller and very short nap roller All your tools that you apply with you're probably going to have to throw away. It is self-leveling so you don't really see the brushstrokes using cheap brushes.
If you want to get por 15 off of anything it’s on, you better do it while it’s wet and wipe it with a rag soaked in lacquer thinner.
I worked at a restoration shop in the nineties and we used Por 15 like crazy. The guy from the Por 15 had always said to apply it to clean rust but never to shiny metal. It’s also works good with fiberglass over a rust hole.
For sure. The things you learn along the way. I appreciate your comment. Thanks for watching, subscribe for continued content. I try to up load at least once a week.
@@RealWorldGarage It’s crazy the uses it has. You can put a amount around the rust hole than push the fiberglass on it than brush Por 15 over it. Once it dries you will have a solid filled hole.
@@adamfrench8735 I helped a friend a few years ago on a “rust o ration” project. It was before I was serious with my YT videos. But if you look in my videos way way back, I had some tutorials on a 67 mustang brakes and turn signal switch. That was the car. I did the front floor pans, it was a Fred Flinstone. But the rear pans were mostly ok. When I hit them with a wire wheel there were pin holes, but nothing serious. He didn’t have the money and I didn’t have the time to replace them. So I coated the rear pan with POR and laid stranded fiberglass in it then dabbed POR into the fiberglass. I let it dry then took a light and checked again and repeated the process, until it was sealed up. It’s rust proof/ “resistant”( nothing is 💯 perfect LOL) but since the car is now parked inside and they only drive it on fair days, it should last their lifetime. I have pictures of the car in progress and after it came from the upholstery shop, on my Real World Garage FB page.
If it’s clean bare metal I would be looking for an epoxy type primer sealer. Sandable primer is fine if you’re going to top coat it soon. The epoxy primer will hold in there.
Iron & steel do something evil: the oxygen continues to transfer until all metal is consumed by reaction. For that reason, I always endeavor to remove as much scale as possible [wire wheel seems to get into pits well enough] and then use a convertor. Where por finds its niche is areas that just can't escape humidity that might prevent other coatings from doing well. Islands [like Puerto Rico] are relentless humidity zones for example - about zero chance of seeing a sub 50% week to do certain projects.
To your point on gear oil, yes: its pernicious and can hang on for years, wherever it lands. I repainted my rear housing using following prep: scrape, engine degreaser/hose off, wire brush with lacquer thinner to work over corners and webbing where heavy gunk was removed during scraping, light sanding of axles tubes, and a final "rinse" of the whole thing with brake cleaner. Eight years, no problems noted.
Very good information on POR15. I will be using this when I replace my rocker panels in my truck. Thanks for sharing this.
I’m seeing I missed your comment, sometimes YT notifications don’t always come through properly. I appreciate you watching and commenting. ✌️ hope your project is going well!!
Thank you for taking the time to make this video - extremely helpful! I’ve used the product, but I have to admit I never knew that “POR” stood for Paint Over Rust - ha ha (I’m not kidding). You hit the nail on the head (with one minor qualification) - the bond is mechanical, not chemical which is why it’s so important that you have a rusty surface (i.e. stippled) for the coating. There are other products that form a mechanical bond on a smooth metal surface - a two-part epoxy primer, followed by a two-part epoxy finish is one example. Restated, POR 15 works great when it’s used for its intended application.
Indeed. Thanks for watching and commenting!!!
I’ve applied por 15 to bare metal with excellent results. I’ve used the wrong color of por and had one heck of a time getting it off with both a bead blaster and a sand blast cabinet. Just sayin’. Be cool, freezerburn
Great video !!!!!
The Por 15 factory says to sandblast bare metal, use cleaner/degreaser, use metal prep, then paint. The sandblasting is to make the surface rough giving the paint something to bind to.
Indeed, the POR-15 needs something to “bite” onto. It’s a great product and I have used it in unconventional ways over the years with great success. Thanks for watching and commenting ✌️
What is your source that says the factory requires that
I think the porous metals trap microscopic water molecules. If I remember correctly, many powder coaters heat porous metal parts in an oven to evaporate all the moisture before coating. That's why a torch is perfect for larger parts. I think that's what I remember.
Indeed. Thanks for watching and commenting!!!
The trailer hitch on my honda pilot was rusting away. About 5 years ago I removed it, sand blasted it and used POR 15 on it. It saved the hitch.
It’s good stuff!! Thanks for watching and commenting ✌️
Perfect video for me. Using por15 on my 1964 Mercury Comet.
Awesome!! I hope to be getting back on it soon!!! I’ve taken a loooong break from it for several reasons. I did get the engine built and broken in back at Christmas!! Thanks for watching and commenting.
good info ive never used the stuff
A lot of the time it's because they don't let the tank dry completely before using it. It'll flake off if there's any moisture
It's sounds wrong not trying to get it as shiny clean metal as possible but thinking about it makes perfect sense hard to believe it but it's true that rust is the actual primer to bond and stop rust with obviously free for oils on the surface. Thanks for the video.
If it was on a finished surface like an external body panel, sure shiny metal and epoxy primer sealer. But many times on these old cars in out of the way hidden places, it’s sometimes pitted, but still solid enough. I just don’t feel like spending the time anymore. I’ll be dead and gone before it’s a problem for someone else, I want to enjoy the car before I’m pushing daisies.
I’ve read where ppl have had issues with it but idk how they prepped for it. I’ve never had a issue with it myself and have used it many times. What’s Vice Grip guy say? “There’s science’s involved” ? Lol.
Por 15 doesn't stop rust it just covers it up for a while, u really have to sand blast and powder coat which cost thousands
Tell that to my 54 ford, restored using por 15 over 20 years ago. 😂 if top coated rust hasn’t come back. The only places that had rust come back were places where we couldn’t get the por 15.
Interesting, 20 years is a good test! I built a steel frame trailer to carry my homebuilt airplane in 2011, it was bare metal when I first put it on the salty winter road, a few years later I gave it the full 3 step POR15 treatment it's been 6 years the trailer has been outside in the rain and snow, no rust at all on it, the sun has made it a little faded but no rust at all.
Yes, the black por-15 has no UV protection, but they say it will get a little Chalky looking but it won’t hurt it or make it release.
@michaelwoods3850, too bad you got it completely wrong. If the rusty surface is sealed it CANNOT rust further because it has no access to oxygen. Rust is iron atoms combining with oxygen atoms. Once you prevent O2 from reaching the iron the rust is STOPPED.
Thanks for sharing,,, Best Regards
If your going to grind it down to bare metal you definitely need to degrease, clean with water, use the metal prep (phosphoric acid), keep it wet with the metal prep for 20 mins or so, rinse off with water, let dry, apply the por15, let cure for 2 hours, apply a second coat, then paint over the por15 once its cured to protect it from UV damage. done.
Definitely agree with that. The por-15 needs something to bite onto.
Sweet, someone with experience! Just for clarification, what are you using to take off the flaky metal? Would I use a wire brush attached to a grinder… or? I feel like I wanna wire brush it but just not to the point that it’s shiny… I plan to do it on my Tacoma frame, however, I’m not stripping everything off the frame, I’m going to jack it up, get to what I can get to- so the top of the frame is out of the question, would painting POR over whatever paint and crap is on the top of the frame be ok? Any tips for getting it inside a frame?
@JRESHOW to be honest, I don’t know that por-15 is your best option for frame rail rust prevention. If you were restoring it and had the body off of the frame and had it stripped where you could get it on all points It would be fine. Por-15 is an excellent product to protect metal on a restoration project, but needs to be applied to all of the hidden nooks and cranny’s while it’s broken down. I have another CZcamsr guy that I have been watching for years that lives in the rust belt areas of Avoca, New York. He really knows his stuff, and is a mechanics mechanic. Put the following in the search bar| south main auto rust proofing | and look at some of his krown and fluid film rust proofing videos. In my opinion this is really the way to go. If I lived in the rust belt This is what I’d be doing. You’ll need to mechanically remove the rust by wire wheel, scrapers, screw drivers, and possibly hand wire brushes. The beauty of the fluid film type products is the can be sprayed over the top of everything, there are hose and spray nozzle adapters where you can spray inside frame rails or even inside body panels. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I'm thinking to repair some localized rust spots on my truck roof with brushed on POR-15, font and back surfaces. Should work great I think. But then I was thinking to fill some pinholes with the thicker POR Patch (maybe with your fiberglass impregnation approach to build up thickness). But do you think the POR Patch will adhere to a cured POR-15 surface, or should I just do the whole thing at once with the POR Patch? Thanks for your experience!
Por patch first then scuff it, then por-15. Make sure you hit it with a good top coat.
Great video. I am repairing some rusted seat brackets and in a situation where I sanded down the feet where it bolts to the floor. So I have some rust left and some back to shiny metal and some painted where the paint wasn’t bubbling or loose from rust after sanding off the bubbled paint. I was going to use the por 15 kit, purchased it etc. now after watching your video I am reconsidering. What do you think I should use/do. Mix of shiny metal and rusty and paint.. thanks and great video
Any shiny metal needs to be etched with their metal prep, or something like it. The por seems to like sticking to the natural iron oxide finish better than anything else.
@@RealWorldGarage okay got it. Going to follow the kit .
Five honda likeeeeeez 😎🙌
Great info thanks for sharing. Curious to know why you have those two screws screwed into the can.
Sorry I missed your comment and have such a late reply. This was a trick an old body man showed me. 2 reasons, 1) when you take the lid off of the can and por-15 gets on the rim, it will dry and you can’t easily remove the lid without destroying it. 2) the product has a tendency to cure in the can after the lid is removed, it seems to do better if you just poke a couple of holes, one to pour out product and the other so it will vent and allow it to pour smoothly. ✌️ thanks for watching and commenting, again I apologize for missing the comment. The way YT delivers them sometimes I miss them.
It’s all good thank you
Met you in Raymond Ms. At the car show. When are you coming back? I'm currently working on the 55 f100.
I haven’t seen an advertisement for Raymond’s car show. I will keep an eye open for it. I’m just over in Byram.
Very good info! Question: Would you put POR15 before applying BONDO on a rusty wheel arch? My plan is: POR15, Bondo, POR15 High build primer, automotive paint. It is for my old 2010 daily driver. Just want to make it look better. Thanks!
I think you’ll end up with problems for BONDO to stick properly. Por15 dries so hard I don’t think you could get a good bite. In this case I think I’d be looking at a rust converter and a kitty hair green filler, it’s supposed to be water proof. Once it’s repaired you might be able to hit the backside of it with some por15. Wheel arches are a tough repair to make last with out cutting out and replacing the metal. But I get it, you’re trying to make your daily live a little longer. I’m going to assume you live in the salt belt?? Or at least where they salt sometimes??
@@RealWorldGarage Thanks for your reply. Yes I live where salt is everywhere on the road during winter (Quebec, Canada) If it could hold up up to 2 years I'll be very happy. It make sense that the filler won't stick well to por15...I guess you're right a rust converter is very good idea!
@@borderline666 yeah it’s a bit tough to keep your stuff nice in the rust belt. I live in the Southern US, Mississippi, and unless you’re right on the coast we don’t have these kinds of rust issues.
Cosmoline is a way better choice with the right prep.
I painted something with por15, its part rusted,part bare metal,part still got factory paint on it, iv prepared it well and applied por15, after couple of month i can say por15 doesnt like baremetal and painted surface,they peel off by my nail ,but on the rusted surface it stays and rock soild.
Yeah, the bare metal needs to be weathered, has been my experience with it. Thanks for watching and commenting
I bought POR 15 for my frame on my Tahoe. It's used and when I got it I panicked because the frame was very rusty. Never seen that much rust on a vehicle and I'm in Colorado. Well I got underneath with a handheld wire brush and Krud Cutter rust converter and the rust just falls off. Many areas of the frame are now shiny bare metal. What should I use? Thank you
Thanks for watching and commenting. First let me say, I don’t have any affiliation to anyone I suggest, I make nothing from my suggestions. Now that said, I follow several rust belt guys and who use Fluid film. There’s a couple guys who make their own concoction using toilet wax rings and used engine oil. But that seems like a bunch of work. I don’t envy you salt road guys. Now with all that said Fluid Film seems like one of the best products, I don’t live in the “rust belt” but I do work on old cars where 60,70 years of being in the weather has taken its toll. But the places that had oil or grease leaked on them are nearly pristine. So the Fluid film seems like a great idea. In places it can get washed off over time and will require a little touch up occasionally. I’d say after initial treatment you’d need to make sure it has a good coat in the wash off areas in fall before your snow season. www.amazon.com/Fluid-Film-11-75-Spray-6-pak/dp/B00CLTXPX2/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?adgrpid=61744205651&gclid=Cj0KCQjwqPGUBhDwARIsANNwjV6TszHgjtECaQmjn9NM2wvmUF6HhHn4eEIq47H3_B4AGKJrN1akQBoaAu2rEALw_wcB&hvadid=409941498673&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9013954&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=13945798176696227341&hvtargid=kwd-299084692026&hydadcr=8581_11326186&keywords=lanolin+spray&qid=1654436956&sr=8-4
This is one of the guys I follow myself, he’s a great mechanic. czcams.com/video/QiIym5JiMOc/video.html
@@RealWorldGarage Thank you for the reply. Been watching Eric O for years. He's awesome. Problem is I don't live in the rust belt. We don't undercoat cars in Denver. The Rust Belt guys always have advice but it's tailored for their area with salt and humidity. I tried an oil based undercoating like Fluid Film and it doesn't set up the same out here in a low humidity environment
@@DJR5280 that’s a shame. Maybe the concoction method then. There’s some guys making one out of wax toilet bowl seals and used oil.
@@DJR5280 have you watched Mustie 1?? This is one of his concoctions. Seems like he’s tried several things. czcams.com/video/LWHISQ_1Lik/video.html
Have you used Por-15 to patch holes in a floorboard?
Yes, many times.
Don’t be fooled, it might stick to the rusted surface better but it will still keep rusting underneath, you have to prep it with phosphoric acid to neutralise it then apply POR15
Mine hasn’t.
lost cause rust bucket... cut and weld in new.. or junk it
It fails if you don't prep the metal correctly.
Correct, and what I see a lot of folks do is, put it right over fresh shiny metal. Nope not going to stick, it will peel off in sheets. Put it over surface rust/iron oxide, it sticks and protects forever. I see to many people thinking that the have to remove that stuff from the metal for it to work. Sure if you’re working on an exterior panel, and you’re working to get a factory or better finish on it. But on sub-structures and things that get covered up to never be seen again paint it on and forget about it.
Keep cool Jewel. Thanks for the tips. sub/likie
Thanks more to come, just not as fast as I’d like.
I reckon its no good
@@jaycharger72 that’s not the case. But you have to know how and when.
When it first came out just paint straight over rust they said , i had some suspension parts sand blasted cleaned and painted them in por about 2 yrs later its flaking off . Should have used rattle cans .