POR-15 vs RUSTOLEUM - What's Better?
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- čas přidán 29. 02. 2024
- POR-15 vs RUSTOLEUM. What's better for rusty metal surfaces? This brief video may give some insight into what's best for your project. Tools, materials and Lakeside Merch below:
💥 Wire Wheel - Harbor Freight
💥 Needle Scaler - Harbor Freight - great tool by the way 👍
💥 POR-15 - por15.com/
💥 RUSTOLEUM - www.rustoleum.com/product-cat...
💥 Paint Stripper for Drill - waterproof.com/product/sealon... or similar
💥 - Lakeside Merch - brothersdesignsmi.com/shop-al...
💥 - Lakeside Discord (Your Projects) - / discord
💥 - Lakeside Autobody - / @lakesideautobody
*********************************************************************************************** - Auta a dopravní prostředky
As with every rust product on the market, just like oil changes, it is far more important that you do it on schedule than the actual product you use. It doesn't matter if you use Supertech or Mobil 1 on most cars. It is far more important that you change it regularly. Same with this stuff. If fluid film says apply every year, then do it every year.
I have a 2001 Silverado I bought a year ago that is getting a brand new frame from GM due to rust/rot issues. I have a good friend that has a 1985 C10 that has been oiled regularly for the last 40 years and it is in perfect shape... along with the original suspension grease bushings. You just have to keep up with the maintenance on your stuff.
That's a great point - have to stay on top of the maintenance 💯
When I saw the link to this, for some reason I assumed you would do an acid test. The main reason we use these is to prevent rust, so I think that might make another interesting video. I've used all of these and I'm surprised by how hard the POR is. The only downsides I've heard are: cost, supposedly won't stand up to UV light. Great video. Thanks.
I like the black cosmoline, and I’m gonna spray Fluid Film inside boxed sections on my rust repair jobs😉😉
Thanks for checking it out BB - appreciate the input too 😊💯
👍🏻I’ve used the rusty primer then painted with rustoleum on the under carriage and I’m happy with the results. I should say that it does take a month or so for the paint to dry hard. When I use a wire wheel on a grinder it doesn’t take the paint off
Great information MM - I figured it needed more time to dry. For the price, it's hard to beat RUSTOLEUM and other implement paints - like from Tractor Supply, etc. - have a great weekend and thanks for watching :)
22 years ago I bought a brand new truck and after getting it home, I found the pinch seam at a bottom back corner was crushed and paint chipped off down to metal. The damage was hard to see so I coated it with POR15 and hoped for the best. After all these years of road scum and salt hitting it, there's still no corrosion.
Great story and proof that the stuff works - thanks for the input Scott :)
@@LakesideAutobody
I saw the msds or something on the por.
It's got cyanoacrylate in it ,like crazy glue.
I spilled some on the floor ,it took a couple years to wear off whereas normal paint spillage is gone in like 6mo.
Lol saw this post everywhere... same copy paste with different username.
I had great success with por15. No problem finding it in my small town in Ontario. Price is steep but you only get what you pay for. It’s also available on Amazon.
Thanks for the input Harvey - the more thoughts and experiences the better on these topics - enjoy the weekend :)
Im going with the Por15. After a few coats it just covers better for me.
I've been wondering about this for a while now.. Thanks Jerry for the video! Also love the Guitar intros!
Thanks for watching 67 - you're welcome too. Enjoy the weekend my friend 😊
Jerry I have used both products...and I live in New Jersey not far from the shore ...por15 is good but is highly dependent on prep to be successful and cost a lot more than rustolem in can form... While rustolem is less dependent on prep... But when you prep the rustolem black and use phosphoric acid and paint when dry it will hold up for a very long time... I have seen POR15 fail and bubble up even when correctly prepped nothing makes you cry than spending the money and time on pro15 only to have it fail... I have a engine hoist that sits outside painted with rustolem black 25yrs+ ago with very little prep done that has very little rust for being outside that long... I have test panels outside with etching primer and rustolem top coated 8yrs in the elements faded but very little rust creep...prep is king Here but rustolem will do the job cheaper and longer than por15 especially if the newbie diyer doesn't get the prep quite right... With both products a wiping or spraying of xylene will pre soak the metal and help penetration....and 40 to 60% phosphoric acid like in milk stone remover available and farm supplies store will increase adhesion and kill under lying rust... But POR15 recommends none of this cause they sell there own versions at much higher cost... And they are located here in New Jersey. Just sharing my experience with both products and what I found to work and be the best cost effective in the long run for me it's an alkylad enamel on properly prepped steel.... Have a great weekend Jerry...and I hope the AMX is doing well.
I found the same thing. POR when it first came out was better but then they cut corners on it.
. I don't think they cut to many corners as I've been using por15 30 yrs+ I think it comes down to prep rusty metal it works great but can fail many years down the line... Their poor patch is quite good it's a paste version of por15 and with proper prep I have never had it fail... To me price and ease of preparation rustoluem wins.
Thanks so much for spending the time and sharing that knowledge MN - that's great information 💯 Very valuable to folks trying to find a good answer to the rust battle. Nothing hurts more than getting a hold of a rust free car and having to drive it on a freshly salted wintery road - you're like, "Welp... it's over..." Thanks again - enjoy the weekend 👍💯😊
Thank you for sharing this video Jerry. I personally use the brush on rust-oleum when I'm restoring my cars. I like to use it on the firewall. And underneath - also inside the car when it's at the metal stage.
Thanks for checking it out and your input Luis - have a good weekend my friend :)
I haven't commented for awhile and I want to thank you for this video. As prices skyrocket I'm always looking for more cost effective products. I used all of my old Eastwood rust encapsulator and bought some of the Rustoleum for using on wheel housings etc. before I install my new quarter panel. I'm now confident that it will work. I treated the rust first.
You're welcome - a lot of people like RUSTOLEUM - I think it'll work just fine :)
I quit using POR15, Chassis saver, and anything like it years ago. They all suck. The problem is the coating is so hard it microfractures and allows moisture instrusion. Rustoleum and other oil based implement paints stick better and last longer on something that isn't a fair weather trailer queen.
100%
Thanks for you input DSS. Cosmoline RP342 might be something that would interest you - never gets super hard and will not come off in water, salt, etc. Comes in clear and flat black :)
@@LakesideAutobodyCosmoline does inded seem interesting, but I question it's ability to stand up to oil leaks and degreasing.
@@DaneSaysStuffoil leaks are pretty good at keeping rust at bay all by themselves.
That also has been my experience.
Thank Jerry have a great weekend!
You're welcome GM - you too my friend :)
Great video Jerry. I have had good luck with the oil base Rustoleum.
Thanks Tom - hope all is well with you and Layne. You can't beat RUSTOLEUM for the price and quality for sure :)
Try the heavy rusted metal primer from Rust oleum. ti has more chemical to treat the rust and excellent adhesion. Also keeps out water like a finish. good for priming underneath. Comes in quarts gallons and spray cans. I use it all the time.
I did buy a quart to do a video on it but never got around to it - I'll give it a try. Thanks for checking the video out Mike :)
thanks for the info again, por15 looks good. but like you said, to protect new stuff if one thing, but sort old stuff is another, so usning old engine oil, i think that is the key.
oil oil creeps, its good.. thanks again
You're absolutely right. Even if I had this whole thing sand blasted, there would be 15% of the car untouched - inside of frame rails, cowl, enclosed cavities, etc. The creeping oil is perfect for those areas after you make sure they're cleaned out - even if you have to cut some holes and put a body plug in later. Thanks for the comment my friend :)
Also, you must remove oil and grease from the area that you’re treating. You presented an unbiased opinion on these products
I say thumbs up on this video
Thanks Richard - I appreciate your input :)
Yep in 2012 i redid my summer car and detailed out all the suspension.
After cleaning off the heavy stuff, i did 2 coats of por-15.
Then 2 coats of their tie-coat primer and 2 coats of brush on Rustoleum.
Some light sanding of the Rustoleum and add 2 coats of spray can Rustoleum for a glossy top coat.
Pick a color you can get both.
I figure if it chips, hopefully the brush on Rustoleum is what ya see.
Good ideas MTH - enjoy the weekend :)
I just like using a 2k epoxy primer honestly.
You can also brush it on if you need to, doesn’t have to be sprayed
Thanks Jeremy - enjoy the weekend :)
Other reviews have shown the Por 15 not doing too well. Rustoleum seams as good as Por 15.
Great comparison Jerry. I very often use Rusoleum only because POR 15 is 90 dollars a quart where I live
It's sort of the same here RUSTOLEUM is affordable and POR 15 is expensive. Thanks for checking it out Stephen - enjoy the weekend :)
Thank you for sharing.
You're welcome Ken - enjoy the weekend :)
Unless I missed it, you have to treat the rusty metal with Metal Ready (aka: Phosphoric Acid) first. THEN apply POR15. I've used this stuff extensively and it has never been that easy to remove, ever. Infact it's a bitch to remove if you need to weld something that's been covered. Re apply after the surface prep has correctly been done as per the instructions.
👍
Thanks Jerry.
You're welcome Bruce - enjoy the weekend :)
Love the videos, to the point 👍.. . . . . . . . with little other crap that wastes time.
Thanks 👍 - glad you like that type of video - I'm not that good at entertaining :)
Man, I remember being deployed on ships and the Navy breaking out the needle scalers. We called them the atomic woodpeckers. Sitting in the berthing areas with that going on was rough, sometimes.
I'll bet. Must have been daunting seeing all that rust using a little tool like this :)
I've had excellent results with POR 15 however it's important, after removing the loose rust to degrease and then etch the surface with the POR 15 metal prep. I think you will find by performing these steps according to the manufacturers recommendations the POR 15 will be even more durable and harder to remove.
Thanks for your input Scott - it is always best to follow the labels for sure. After using it a few times, I feel real confident that it will stand the test of time :)
Interesting video thanks for the review. The spray stuff would seem to be a waste of money if you are going to do this to a vehicle. Have great week.
You too Bob - thanks for checking it out :)
I use hardner With rustoleum now. And try to let anything I paint cure for a month or more before heavy use. It still takes weeks to fully cure with hardner from my experience
I've been doing the same. Adding hardener definitely makes this stuff hold up better. I use the Majik brand catalyst from Rural King, but it's a little spendy at $18 (small can of maybe 6 or 8 ounces I think?). I'd like to find something else. Seems like some folks are using urethane hardener. Any idea if that works?
@@mccoma11 I use the same product. Haven’t tried anything else. I’m not too concerned by the price, as it works for a gallon. And a gallon of rustoleum goes a long, long way.
@danhoy8356 that's true. I guess I'm just thinking about how I always have urethane hardener on-hand, and the closest RK is an hour away lol!
@@mccoma11I get it! Always good to have options on the shelf. I would imagine the chemical composition is different between the mode of action for hardners. But if you test it out… share the knowledge!!!!!
I vote for sandblaster and fiber disc, then 2K epoxy, then rubberized stonechip and then 2-3 layer of some industrial 2K acrylic.. You do it *once* in a car/trucks life and will never have to worry about the underbody. Maybe the material cost is like 3-4x than one por15 job, and the labour involved is 3x, but the peace of mind .... 😊 that is not comparable.
👍💯😊
I like the guitar intros as well, show us your axe and amp setup, I think that would make a cool video, and drink two for me,have a great weekend Jerry
My set up is pretty weak. I've got a few older Washburn KC series guitars and a small Crate practice amp. I'll do a video on that though - maybe paint a guitar and do a little jingle at the end. Thanks for always watching my friend - have a great weekend 👍💯
@@LakesideAutobody your ability far outweighs the quality of an instrument or gear,if I ever make videos again, I am going to make my own intro music,actually a cover of a few things from the 80s, prob get a copyright strike
lol
@@LakesideAutobody I've been aiming to comment about the guitar intro ever since I've been watching our videos.
Great video
Glad you enjoyed it - thanks for watching Straight Pipe 👍💯
Por 15 needs to be top coated rust oleum does not that’s the difference. I’ll stick with a good coating of ospho let it dry knock off the white ash then some Rustoleum . I’ve done several frames with Rustoleum I thin it and spray it on.
It does spray on nice for sure - especially the satin black. Can't beat the price and availability either :)
I use rustoleum over Hallman Lindsey Industrial metal guard primer. Metal guard's solvent is xyxol, and it dries very fast. Works for me, but it's expensive.
Thanks for the info Bob - Thanks for watching too. Have a great weekend :)
Interesting tests. I know Por15 is harder to get off your bare hands than Rustoleum
Thanks and you're right - that stuff stays on your skin - not sure why but man! - it don't come off :)
I used por-15 on a VW project. I was not impressed. But it was not a rusty surface. I had heard about the "bonding" qualities for decades. But after not being completely happy with the adhesion i started to research it online and the best i can come up with is supposedly the epa or some gov overwatch got critical of some chemicals & the ended up changing the formula? Idk i was underwhelmed.
I tried it 20 years ago and was underwhelmed then too. Tried their exhaust coating and was flat out disappointed with it (wouldn't stick). I think the POR products just got ingrained into hobby car culture from a bunch of guys that don't actually drive their cars in bad weather anyhow. That's not a knock on them, it's just not really an accurate source of experience. The daily beater stuff I've painted with it made it for 1-2 years before it was right back where it started. Any paint would have been as good.
brush on rustoleum is way better than por15
Thanks for you input JB :)
I've used both over the years, and for the cost I think the rustoleum is fine to be honest. As you've demonstrated here, the performance difference is like splitting hairs.
Thanks for your input Steve - enjoy the weekend :)
I vote for none of the above. All of the paint-style products I've ever used to treat rust have been fairly useless. The _one_ thing that I've seen over and over, which actually appears to work, are the mastercoat products. That's one of the few rocks that I haven't yet over turned and tested personally. It's not cheap, but it appears to be the real deal.
Thanks for that information TBL - enjoy the weekend :)
And how did they do preventing the spread of rust. The channel Project Farm recently completed comprehensive testing and neither POR 15 nor Rustoleum came out on top.
Good info - thanks for the input 👍💯
I used the one from Eastwood and it seems to be very durable. It’s expensive and you have to wait forever to get it though.
Thanks for that information Don - have a good weekend :)
Think the reason por-15 is working best is its formula is made primarily too etch into metal to convert or stop oxidation to point of then protecting surface from rerusting.could be why lots of body guys por15 then paint black base over top.holds up longer given that you have 2 actions taking hold.just my guess.snooky pa.😊😊😊😊
Thanks for input Allen - I think it does do some etching or something like that. It obviously soaks in or does something a little different than paint. Have a great weekend :)
Have you ever tried Bill Hirsch Miracle Paint?
No - but I'll check it out - thanks for the suggestion :)
I have a question, I’m removing rust on the inside lower drivers door of my Tacoma. The rust is not bad enough where it would require a cut and weld patch. Once I grind out the rust and get down to bare metal do I treat the bare metal with a rust inhibitor or a rust converter or rust encapsulator? Can I use all of those products? If so in which order? After treating the metal with the rust product(s) I plan on using a few coats of a zinc rich primer with wet sanding in between coats the paint then clear coat and buff then wax. Any feedback or instructions is appreciated thank you
The reason you're door bottoms are rusting is because they are rusting from the inside. What you do on the outside really isn't relevant. Just sand the surface rust off, prime and paint. Then treat the inside by cleaning (if possible) with compressed air, vacuum, water, etc. (no leaves, needles, dirt, mud, debris, rust chunks, etc.), squirt some WD40 inside to prevent further rust in the pinch weld at the bottom of the door. Watch this video for more insight on this issue - czcams.com/video/y05dNxt-nVc/video.html
@@LakesideAutobody thank you so much Michigan and CZcams are lucky to have you
@@jcz136 👍😊
@@LakesideAutobody any primer you recommend? Zinc rich ? Epoxy?
I’m going with sandblasting and epoxy primer.
Can't beat that method for sure. For me though, it would be quite pricey and still wouldn't get the insides of the unibody frame rails, inside the cowl (windshield wiper area), rockers, and any other enclosed spaces.
I even tried Eastwood stuff. Was not very good. Rust came back. Worst than before. Friend of mine tried it was soft.
I have at times been using rustoleum. But I put 2-3 coats. (2 medium to heavy coats to 3 lighter coats.) I think it takes like 30 days to completely harden. I am not saying it is better. That what I am trying to say. Not sure if When completely hardened it is that much worst than other stuff. Por15 is moisture cured. So if in humid area will dry quicker. I followed their directions. A few days later I could not open the can. I made a hole on top to get more paint out of it. Few days later what was left in can had hardened.
Tried magnet paints. Same thing. But a few dollars cheaper. Gets expensive quickly.
Eastwood has one in the spray can that might be moisture cured. (Not sure. Going to email them.)
I think I might try that one.
This coating might be the alternative to painting that you are looking for - I've had really good luck with it on anything I use it on :- czcams.com/video/i7sOyujLA8o/video.html
Removed some old bedliner on my frame and some spots have good paint underneath..i read tons or horror stories about it not sticking. If i rough it up with 120 grit or so and prep with cleaner and metal prep, itll be alright? Id hate to waste so much money and time
If you are only worried about preventing rust and it's under the bedliner Cosmoline RP-342 is you're best bet - it comes in clear or flat black. Otherwise, yes just rough up the area with 120, prime and paint with rustoleum. If it's pure rusty metal, the POR-15 will work better. POR-15 is for metal that's literally coated with rust - just clean it and brush on the POR-15 :)
@LakesideAutobody yeah I think I'm gonna roll/brush rustoleum. I know it will work and not give me any issue, I just wish I could use the por but at least I don't need it. Lol think I have to mix any hardener or thin the rustoleum out to get a nice brush stroke?
Not with a brush - just open the can and brush it on. Park your truck so the water drains out the back - i.e. front is higher than the back if possible. The water under the liner needs to drain out 😊
There's a company called KBS coatings that make some great rust repair/prevention products. Better long term over Chassis Saver
Thanks for the information Dave 👍💯
I wonder how it compare Rustolem professionsal high performance enamel or Rustoleum fam implement pain
👍💯😊
I have heard a lot about POR-15 but we don't have it in our stores around Toronto. I am very curious about it. Thanks
You're welcome. I will say the most striking thing about it is how it seems to soak in and grab. I really don't know about the chemistry of the stuff but that's what I noticed right away :)
Hey patvancanada: I'm in sask. Canadian tire here sells the stuff, but any paint body supplier should be able to get it. I get mine at walkers here
@@gm-lb9oe Really?! Thanks, it must be in the GTA, I just have to look harder.
From my experience, brake fluid eats thru both products but I use Rustoleum
Interesting.... thanks for the tip. I'll keep that in mind :)
What about rust converter and lanoline undercoating?
That can work for sure. Make sure the panel is clean inside, can drain and dry out and this - czcams.com/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/video.html
Once again, thank you. My 2008 F150 will not be a show truck, but a daily driver. I want to keep it a couple more years.
both about the same except por 15 can be top coated with urathane primer and paint where as the rustoleum will bubble up the paint
Thanks for the input Bill - enjoy the weekend :)
Eching primmer same weld thur primmer
Hi Super - hope all is well with you. Have a great weekend 😊
Mastercoat silver primer is the best
I'll have to remember that - thanks for your take Tank :)
I think my pick would be the Rust-Oleum. Isn't Rust-Oleum in oil base?
Yes - it's actually great stuff for the price. I think if you prepare the surface like RUSTOLEUM wants you too - you'll be just fine :)
@@LakesideAutobody i watch a video today of an experiment a guy did over a year POR what's a total fail. Once it starts peeling it comes off in sheets. Rust-Oleum did pretty good no chips, peeling and brake fluid didn't effect it unlike POR. Master Craft and raptor liner came in 1st and 2nd. He was a guy here in Ohio. Rust-Oleum still had 90% of it's gloss after a year. The channel is called the Repair Geek the video is only two weeks old. It's pretty interesting. It used 8 different manufacturers
I like your channel and get a lot of useful info. In this case, however, I think you should have compared Rustoleum's Rust Reformer. It would been more apples to apples.
Thanks for the input BBO - thanks for checking it out anyway. Enjoy the weekend my friend :)
What is the needle tool? That looks like a great way to get rust out of corners...
Needle scaler
Air needle scaler. Usually they go on the front of an air hammer.
It's one of the best tools for rust and corners without a question - a favorite tool of mine lately with this resto. It's a needle scaler from Harbor Freight 👍💯😊
Can you use por15 on body panels
Yes but it actually works best if it's applied to cleaned, dry rust. I doesn't stick well to plain metal 😊
@@LakesideAutobody so I can scuff it and apply some filler to also
I just wish they hadn't changed the formula on the rusty metal primer the old stuff was fantastic
Probably something the environment didn't like 🥴
@@LakesideAutobody
Don't know all the ingredients but it had fish oil in it
How about painting the Rustoleum over the POR15?
I have painted over POR15 after it cured/dried (scuffed first) and it works perfect. You could do what you are saying too - just scuff the POR first :)
I'm not sure what they recommend or say but in my opinion any type of paint needs up to a month to cure. Especially something like this situation.
You're right. Rustoleum with a hardener (like Majic enamel hardener) does harden act more like real auto paint though :)
Will rust bubble under these?
If you prepare the rusty surface according to the instructions it won't bubble on either. You tend to get bubbling and paint flaking off when metal is not prepped correctly. Also... panel, metal, wood, anything outside in wet environments has to be able to drain and dry out. It's when things sit in water or moisture for long periods of time that problems occur.
@@LakesideAutobody Got it, thanks!
Back in the day when implement paint contained lead, it was bullet proof. Of course those days are long gone as we all know that lead is bad.
For the price, I am not impressed with POR & all "their" prep recommendations just up that cost. Lately I have been using phosphoric acid prep & after thoroughly dry, enamel, in my lawn tractor restore hobby. I am a fan of Sherwin Williams DTM (direct to metal) paints.
Great points Skip - I appreciate the input :)
I think rustoleum metal primer should have been tested next to por 15 , the one you used was paint .
Thanks for your input. I should have put that to the test too :)
You need to add the 'gloss & hardener' catalyst to the Rust-Oleum...
True - thanks for the input - it does make a difference. The MAJIC enamel hardener is the only stuff I can find lately though :)
@@LakesideAutobody Cerrocoat is available through Ben Moore and Valspar is at tractor supply. 😉
My whole pickup is painted with a $50 gallon of Rust-Oleum OSHA Safety Red and a $19 Horrid Fate spraygun. 😂
@@LakesideAutobody Jerry, I shared your video with the Ford truck forum where I'm the tech admin.
I hope you don't mind if it drives traffic to your channel...😄
Fellow CZcamsr "Repair Geek" did a rust sealer test back in January and Mastercoat Master Series destroyed the others. They've been selling out as soon as they get stock since. Worth checking out!
Yea repair geek is like a young project farm
Thanks for your input PF - thanks for checking this one out :)
I have had absolutely phenomenal results with KBS coatings Rust Seal. I live in the Northeast and I've used every conceivable rust remedy there is on the market.
Thanks for the information - I'll be checking that stuff out :)
@@LakesideAutobody awesome you'll be happy with those products. I've learned so much from you it's not even funny thank you!
Por15 it’s almost 3 times the price of Rust oleum, and it doesn’t seem to be better
You're right but like I said in the video - I didn't really put the two to the TIME test - I guess years will tell which really lasts the longest. I don't think I have that much time anyway 👍💯😊
Great video. Seems like the the Por and Rusto (not spray can) were very comparable. My first experiment with my Fuji turbine sprayer (video here czcams.com/video/ZQGtg2GSF9k/video.html )was using Rusto to paint my little utility trailer. Mixed 50/50 with acetone and very little prep. I was not concerned with high quality. It came out better than I expected. A year and a half later it looks about as good as the day I put it on. Seems very durable. Thanks for the excellent content.
You're welcome Ken - thanks for watching :)
Kbs paints is the stuff...
Thanks for the input - I'll check that brand out :)
@LakesideAutobody it's a 3 step process but it's on there forever..used por 15 on my 68 valiant and didn't last 3 yrs..started flaking off w rust under it...used kbs on my grand national 4 yrs ago and it looks like I just put on..thx
What people don't realize is por 15 only works on rust.
Anything not rusty needs real paint.
You're totally right - I really should have made a point of that - it's not for anything else :)
Just don't forget to top coat over the POR15. UV rays is not its friend
You're right - it does take a topcoat real well too - just have to scuff it up. Thanks for the input Fixin' - have a good weekend 💯
por15 , no contest ... don't even have to watch the video to make that choice
Thanks for your input - that stuff really soaks in and ends up getting super hard and durable :)