Glue On Quarter Panel Patch (Part 2) - Tapping Down the Seam, Filling & Painting
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- čas přidán 24. 08. 2024
- Part 2 of "Glue On Lower Rear Quarter Rust Repair Panels". The seam is tapped down, filled and painted for a repair that is durable and can stand up to daily driving. More info below:
Tools, materials, Lakeside apparel and merch:
*** Glue: SEM 39757 Structural Impact Resistant Adhesive
*** Body Hammer: MARTIN TOOLS 158G GENERAL PURPOSE PICK HAMMER WITH HICKORY HANDLE (Similar)
*** Lakeside Merch: brothersdesign...
*** Fiberglass Reinforced Body Filler: Evercoat Everglass short strand fiberglass reinforced filler
*** Steel Spreaders: www.ebay.com/i...
*** Cheese Grater Blade: Stanley Surform 21-299
*** Air File: Viking V100
*** Sand Paper (air file): Indasa brand 36 or 40 grit
*** Regular Body Filler: Autobody Master lightweight body filler
Tape: 3M Automotive Refinish Masking Tape
10" Sanding Board - www.zoro.com/k...
Sand Paper (10" board): Indasa brand 36 or 40 grit
5" Block: Harbor Freight
Sand Paper for small block: Mirka brand 80 grit
DA sander: www.amazon.com...
Paint: Nason Ful-Base Victory Red (GM) w/ Nason Select Clear 496-00
Reducer: Nason Ful-Base Reducer 441-21 Medium
Lakeside Discord: / discord
/ @lakesideautobody
I’ve done just about everything over the years Auto Body related… Except the floor pans. We need some videos on floor pan replacement!
I've picked up so many helpful tips from your videos.
Good to hear TJ - thanks for the comment :)
👍🏻Just like any professional at his trade, you make it look easy!!!
Will done! Also nice mud board, I use a piece of masonite for every project I do and enjoy to see how thick the Bondo is on the board when I’m finished with the job.
I always look forward to your videos on the weekend Jerry…that mixing board looks awesome!
Thanks for watching UPK - good to hear you look forward to the vids my friend - that makes my day. I'll send you a mixing board when they are ready to go. Have a great weekend :)
@@LakesideAutobody look forward to the mixing board and I’m working on something to send your way as well…have a good weekend Jerry!
@@UndergroundPaintKing Very cool - talk to you soon :)
@@LakesideAutobody I want a mixing board
@@curtismuma1931 Me too
well i learned a lot in 15 mins, now time to patch my rusty chevy express quarter panel and rockers. Thank you for this video 👌👌
You're welcome Manny :)
Nice job again.
Hi Jerry, Dan here. Great video! Had to take a break on my project for a bit. Hopefully back to it in a couple of weeks.
Hey Danno - sorry about the late reply. Thanks for the support and good luck finishing your project :)
Always look forward to your body work vids. Thanks for sharing.
You're welcome Randy - thanks for watching :)
You make it look too easy! Great video. Just ordered my hat.
I appreciate that Buckshot - thanks for the support :)
Very, very Nice!
Hey always look forward to your videos
Thanks for the kind words Joseph :)
That is sheer genius...
I appreciate the kind words Richard - thanks for checking it out :)
You make it look easy, Jerry. Beautiful results!👍
Thanks CSG - I appreciate you always checking out the videos. Hope you have a good weekend my friend :)
We have different ways of doing things. Kitty hair? All metal and then 80 grit da, skim coat of 3M 01131 filler. Long block with 180 grit. Done. Really cool how you do repairs way up there. People going to bash me. Great work Sir! Hope it is warmer. I could not deal with cold for nine months. Fun stuff.
It is fun stuff for sure. Thanks for your input as always Bill - have a good week :)
Real nice work!
Thanks Fred :)
Your videos are really informative and your merchandise placement is nice. 👌 keep up the good work
Thanks James - I appreciate your kind works - have a good week :)
Looks great ! Nice work!
Thanks Curtis - hope everything is going well for you my friend :)
That's how it's done
Could use a flange tool before gluing ?
Yes - you can do that. Try to make sure you have at least a 1" flange. Maybe less would work but have not tried it.
awesome
Very instructive videos, thanx :))
You're welcome :)
MAN IF ONE LOOKS IT WOULD BE HARD TO SEE A DIFFERINCE
Hi Jerry: Another great video. Thank you. Not sure if you did a video on your air compressor and some of your air tool?? Awesome mixing board for your filler. I'm jealous now :(
Here's one on my compressor if you are interested - czcams.com/video/53miAObOdVY/video.html Thanks for watching GM :)
Can you show how to do headlight caps on a 56 chevy. You would be the guy that I would trust. Thanks Bob
What would you like to see done to them. Prime and paint? Or would you like to see other stuff done to them? Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks for replying Jerry. I would like to see how to blend the top of the fender cap blend into the headlight bucket. My fenders the rust has removed all that so I can't even see what should be there. The caps I bought for the fenders do not have that part. Can you help with that?
@@bobgreen3116 In other words, were your new parts (headlight buckets) are to be attached is damaged or rusted away. There literally is nothing there to attach the parts to? Feel free to email some pics to schoolvideolibrary at gmail dot com and I'll try to help you out with that. Are you in Michigan? Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody no I'm in PA. I will have to get my son to help me with the pictures. The cheeses graded tip has helped me so very much. Thank you. Love your videos 👍👍
@@bobgreen3116 I'm happy to hear the cheese grater helped you - It saves from breathing a lot of dust too :) I'm thinking you'll have to weld some metal onto the old fender to attach to the new buckets but not sure - I'll check out the pics and get a better idea.
Great work. What would a repair like this cost in a body shop? Got an old challenger I don't want to try this myself.
It varies a lot from place to place. Any where from 500 on up really :)
Do you believe filler does not stick to paint as well as it does to steel?
Great question - filler doesn't stick to paint or metal if the sand paper or grinding disk is dull - in other words has "shined" the metal instead of cutting it. I just made a video on that and will post it next Friday. For now though here's something that may help - czcams.com/video/koMw6-auoIs/video.html The shops I worked at were serious about putting filler only on metal that was prepped with a 24 or 36 grit fiber resin disk on slow speed. Never, ever have I had filler come away from metal if I did that :)
I like it! I'm doing this on my truck for sure. I also like you custom bondo board! I want one with my logo on it. Who did that for you? Great video bud
The bondo board was done by Brothers Graphics in Saginaw, MI - brothersdesignsmi.com/shop/ols/categories/lakeside-autobody-apparel?sortOption=descend_by_created_at Thanks for checking the video out GN - have a great weekend my friend :)
Jerry! Nice video. Do you make your metal squeegees. They really do the job by being a little stiffer and longer lasting then those yellow plastic squeegee appliers. And if so, what gauge? Thanks.
I don't but here is a company that sells them - very similar to the ones I use - www.ebay.com/itm/141695623597?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=141695623597&targetid=1645685074448&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=9017127&poi=&campaignid=16730423415&mkgroupid=135815925780&rlsatarget=pla-
Did you use any epoxy primer under your blocking primer? I also like to use epoxy on the backside of panels and under coat the inside after the epoxy has cured. Your finished job looks great as always.
Thanks for the support David. I didn't use epoxy under the blocking primer. You can if you want but remember.... paint is your best protection against moisture and/or protecting bare metal. If you leave it outside for months or years before painting then yes, it might be a good idea to hit it with some epoxy. Have a great week my friend :)
👍
Not going to fill holes. Then hole filler? Cheese grater removed most material? Then straight to sanding a new material? Did you skip a step?
I didn't skip a step. I think when I said I wasn't going to fill the holes, I meant with rivets. Sometimes I use rivets to fill holes but in this case it will be under the trim so I sort of cheated - knocked the holes down a bit and filled with fiberglass reinforced filler. If that doesn't make sense ask again. Hope that helps clear it up :)
What is the glue you are using for patch panel repair?
It's listed in the video description - it's SEM Impact Resistant Panel Adhesive. Has little micro pellets in it to make sure you don't squeeze it out of the joint - really like that :)
I’m confused… why are we adding dings
Just like the factories did sail panels. They would lap weld the quarter panel to the roof panel in a valley - then fill that valley with lead or even filler on late model cars. Body shops try to copy that process by tapping the seam (lap) down to make the valley - then fill - just like the manufacturers did. You always want a buffer (filler) between your seam and the finish (paint)
Good job Jerry..what do you use to glue the molding back on? Thanks..have a good week
I bought new moldings but you can remove the old adhesive strips and buy the 3M molding adhesive tape (2 way) :)
Nice job as always. I still have never used the cheese grater. Is this only for fiberglass or can you cheese grade bondo/ plastic fillers????
It works very well on both. Once you use one and get used to it, you'll never sand filler w/o it - no dust, super fast, easy to use. Thanks for always watching PSG - I appreciate that my friend :)
@@LakesideAutobody Have a great weekend Jerry
do you use activator in the basecoat? do you think the fulbase is the old chromabase?
Yes I do use activator in the base coat though I've heard of guys not using it and the paint rep also says it is not needed in the base. I still use it though :)
@@LakesideAutobody have you done a video on repairing a stake pocket on a pickup bed? I have some damaged from a ratchet strap
I'm about to attemp try number 3 at redoing the roof skin on one of my cars. I tried the last time with panel bond and it seemed very thick and hard to spread. I noticed that there is a foam (looks almost like black closed cell foam) across the middle roof brace and the front and rear have a very soft yellowish foam. Do you have any idea where I could find similar products? Have you replaced a roof skin before? Thanks!
I replaced a roof at the posts but not a skin. I'm not sure what the black closed cell foam type stuff is other than factory type adhesive but I'm sure the SEM Impact Resistant structural adhesive would work fine for that - it's not that thick. SEM 39757
@@LakesideAutobody Some of the research I did suggested 39747 would be good for roof skins and door skins, so I tried that. Is it supposed to be hard to come out of the tube and spread? I'm thinking the stuff I got was old or something.
@@jayinmi3706 It should come out really easy - like too easy. You have to back off the trigger each time you set the gun down. It comes out much faster and easier than say latex caulk for your house :)
@@LakesideAutobody It didn't, so I think there was something wrong with it.
@@jayinmi3706 I think so too. If you don't have real good luck with SEM try 3M brand adhesive :)
Can a floor patch panel be done like that
Yes. I glued an entire Dodge B250 van floor in but I left the self tapping screws in. A Doge van is unibody (not full frame) so the floor was not only glued to the frame rails but also the sides and ends. I used galvanized steel thus the glue - I didn't want to mess up the galvanized coating by welding it in. It'll never rust again hopefully :)
@@LakesideAutobody Thank you I appreciate the advice and I definitely appreciate the fact that you take the time and answer everybody’s questions
@@leonardcrisci7254 You're welcome Leonard - have a great week my friend :)
@@LakesideAutobody Absolutely you do the same
@@LakesideAutobody ,don't do body work, but pretty adept at things(was a metal fabber-machinist of sorts). Now retired. So, I have to put floor panels in my altima and don't have a welder anymore. But your use of glue has solved my problem. Looks like you do nice work and have good videos. I'll be checking out more of your channel to steal more ideas.(I only just found your channel)
Windshield urethane is cheaper 🤠
Good idea - probably would work great too :)
great job. smoke cigrits
Thanks 👍
😎🖖✌👍👌🤓
VERY new to all of this, my question is, why do you hit it with a hammer after you glue it together?
Good question and super important. No matter how you fix rust hole, weld, fiber glass, glue, etc., you'll want to make sure you tap the seam down for two reasons. 1) hides the patch 2) the filler is a good thing and acts as a buffer between the seam and the finish. It's really not good to have a seam (butt welded, glued, lap, etc.) right under the finish - it's probably going to show eventually :)
@@LakesideAutobody Oh, well that's logical, should've known that! It's the same with drywall
👍✌😊@@dragonfire7734
Why don't you just flange the seam and glue it. Yes some welding needs to be done but can't understand making more work for myself.
You could try it but the flange that all flange tools make is only 1/2". Another thing is that you can't flange around bends, corners, edges, etc. If you try it, let me know how it goes :)