Mercedes KE-Jetronic - The Fuel Distributor Disassembly Part 2
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- čas přidán 22. 10. 2020
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In this video I will be showing you how to disassemble the fuel distributor.
THIS VIDEO IS FOR ENTERTAINING PURPOSES ONLY, DON'T USE IT AS GUIDELINE FOR THE DIS- AND REASSEMBLY ON YOUR CAR!!! I just want to demystify this system and to show you everything as well as its heart(the fuel distributor) how it looks like open.
There are some other disassembling methods in which you won't damage the diaphragm but I would recommend you to buy the replacement kit. The fuel distributor I am using in this video as reference is off from a car that was not started for God knows how long, it's rusty and it will never be mounted on a car, so I had that freedom to do some things less carefully so the diaphragm got ruptured and an o-ring on the barrel. From what I have seen, I have realized that you will probably never have to disassemble this part off your car(maybe in some extreme cases if the car was not started for a year or even longer...), eventually in order to replace the 2 green o-rings on the EHA and the black one which the plunger rests on. If you have to do this anyway, use oil as a lubricant because I used none.
And again I want to stress it here - I DON'T TAKE ANY RESPONSIBILITY FOR THE DAMAGE ON YOUR CAR. EVERYTHING YOU DO WITH YOUR FUEL DISTRIBUTOR AS ON THIS VIDEO YOU ARE DOING IT AT YOUR OWN RISK AND RESPONSIBILITY!!!
#fueldistributor##fixyourmercedes##mercedeskejetronic#
Instagram profil:
/ fix_your_mercedes
What am I talking about?
My topic is the KE-Jetronic injection system which I try to demystify as much as I can.
For all of you to understand the system in brief - Developed in 1973 and being mounted into cars up to 1993 as it went in history. But why these to letters!?(KE) K(from German "kontinuierlich" meaning continuos, without interruption) the MECHANICAL injection system on which the fuel starts flowing from the fuel tank sucked by the FUEL PUMP and delivered to the FUEL DISTRIBUTOR which sends fuel to the INJECTORS while the majority of it flows through the FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR through its return line back to the fuel tank again. The letter E(electronic) has to mark the electronic sensors (the developement starting from early eighties) which had to inform the ECU about the current state of the engine so that the ECU(Electronic Control Unit) then could create current signal in mAmp(miliampers) and send it to four crucial components for the system - the EHA(the electro-hydraulic actuator,a unit consisting of a magnet, an electromagnet and a baffle plate) which had to fine tune the engine in each of its phases, the ICV(the idle control valve), the unit which was predicted for the engines perfect idle, the X11(the diagnostic socket) where the duty cycle(the ideal mixture) was adjusted and the X11/4(the code reader) - the socket which from any codes were read if present using an OBD1 scanner.
An extraordinary injection system which could be fully repaired in your own garage using a multimeter and a pressure gauge only for its fine tuning, together with some common tools.
"Happy Mercedesing" - Auta a dopravní prostředky
This has been more interesting than any movie or documentary I could've watched on TV tonight 👍🏻
Thank you, you are so kind. Please, be careful! This is no joke. One thing I forgot to mention in the video - in order not to rupture the diaphragm take all the connections off from the distributor, use some oil with a syringe or use WD-40 to lubricate the inside. Put oil with a syringe, take some clean 2l bottle and cut it in two pieces just for the distributor to fit in, remove all the torx T27 screws and then pour diesel fuel in and let the distributor rest over night soaked in diesel fuel. That way you will be able to split the two chambers easier.
Best regards, amico
@@mercedeske thank you for the advice! With time I am going to do everything. Now my attention has been brought to the crankcase breather hose, I know they probably are faulty... I just have a lot of things going on about this W124, many issues and parts to be replaced and I'm just so impatient to see the final result haha. But at least I have already done some works on it
Of course you will. Check those hoses because with time it becomes as hard as a rock and needs to be replaced.
Ivica, you are freaking AMAZING !!! And your videos are very FUNNY but above all INSTRUCTIONAL🥸🤓!!
2:59 …put all parts in a hat🎩! and then just “🎼🎤Wiggle it…a little bit 🤣!”
NO KIDDING THOUGH, I thought when the video got to…
28:55 When you say “add these parts
(to the parts already in the hat)”…
I was expecting: “THEN WE CAN PULL A RABBIT 🐇 OUT OF THE HAT🎩!!!”
😂😂😂
9:44 …I like how you marvel as you look at the plunger and the “precise machine work….” That’s what I’ve always loved about German engineering and fine craftsmanship. Kudos!!!
¡Oh, and thanks for the clean space, clear procedures and Nice Jazz Music 👍🏼! KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK 😎
Hi, Berni, sorry for the delay, I didn't notice this comment. Thanks for the support and finally to see someone analyzing me 😆that means you pay attention to what I say and I am glad about that a lot! I will try as best as I can. Thanks for such a wonderful analysis and keep following me. Until then - Happy Mercedesing/Feliz Mercedesando!😃🍀🍀🍀
Thank you for the solid information, it is greatly appreciated, my friend.
Thanks, my friend. Happy Mercedesing 👋👍👏🍻😃
Very interesting ! Nice video well explained... never dare to open this damn distributor up to now ... 😂
Thanks. Greetings, mate and best wishes
This is a great content. I love the way you telling everything in details.
Thanks a lot 👏🏻 🍀🍀🍀
Thanks for your help
My pleasure. Happy Mercedesing 🍀 👍🏻 💪🏻 😊
This is VERY helpful thank you. I am doing a rebuild on my distributor for my vw scirocco 16v. Distributor is the same as this except my part# ends with 005
Just watch how everything was and get it back the same way. Be careful. My advice to you would be to take a 2l bottle, to cut it half, or to have at the bottom enough place for the distributor. Unscrew the holding screws, the adapters for the cold start valve and others and pour oil with a syringe, lubricate the bottom part as well. Put the distributor in the "rest of a bottle" and fill it up with diesel fuel. Let it lay over night. That way you will be able to separate diaphragm easier from one of the chambers. There is a tool for those circlips, try to find it. The most of your time you are going to spend on them mounting them back on the filter.
Thank you for your kind words and good luck! ;-) If you succeed inform me, please. Many greetings from Serbia
Ty FYM! I already took it apart. The diaphragm actually came out in one piece. Everything came out the same way as your video. One thing i am unsure of though. You were saying there should be a specific depth that I should be mounting the metering shaft in the upper fuel distributor housing? I should have a certain depth on the plunger for the metering plate and car starting to work properly?
Ahaaaa, I get it. When you put the holders for the o-rings, the o-rings must be aligned with holders. When you roll your finger across you mustn't feel the metal part with your finger because that metal part will be scrubbing the metal surface in the upper chamber. How can I say - push the metal holders in as far as you can and then they won't be able to scrub the metal surface in the upper chamber as you push the barrel back into the upper chamber ;-)
11:20 the cover on mine was stuck, was convinced it was glued together! impossible to take apart with screwdrivers, tapping it with hammers, etc.
but, a few minutes with a heat gun and it came apart by hand very easy.
Yes, that's another method. This one was stuck, it forgot when it saw fuel for the last time 😉😃
🤝🏽
does adjusting the nut on the plunger make any difference to the system pressure?
No
Hi there. I'm having a problem with my CIS injection. The return to idle of the engine is too slow. The revs are going down pretty slow once I lift my foot from the throttle. Could you please tell me to what should I need to look at to bring it back to normal?
Hi. Try at first with some basics and I mean the throttle lever linkage. When the car is off try pressing and depressing the accelerator lever to see how the car reacts, maybe it's dirty and won't go back as it should. In that case it would be great to take it off, clean it. Maybe the pivot points have to be lubricated and it acts like a bit stuck(WD-40 does the job great).
If that's not the case, then you should disassemble the fuel distributor, press the plunger(its piston in the center) and see how it moves up and down. If it doesn't slide easily then lubricate it with WD40. Just spray it inside and let the distributor rest over night(in my video on the reassembly of he distributor as I suppose you can see how I check at the end how the plunger slides). If not, then we will see what to do further. Try pressing the sensor plate and if it goes back slowly, then it's the plunger that you will have to lubricate. That's the fastest check ;-)
Best regards, FyM
@@mercedeske Thanks a los!. I will try and let you know.
Any time. My pleasure and hear you soon.😀😃🙂
Hi there, What should I do if I forgot to mark the Kerf direction at the tip of the barrel during dismantling?
Hi 👋🏻, the kerf is located opposite of the indentation on the distributor. To make it simple - orient the kerf towards the indentation and just turn the barrel clockwise towards the next cylinder(your first left).
@@mercedeske Hi, I followed your procedure, now I can't start the engine, because engine gets flooded, even without cold start valve. Any suggestion.
Did you pay attention to the holes from the barrel with those from the distributor to align them? Is the diaphragm unruptured? Are the o-rings on the barrel in a good condition?
@@mercedeske Would you show some pictures of what are mentioning about, thanks
Should there be a spring where the plunger goes?? Took mine apart and was no spring??
Regards
Laurence
There is no spring on M103 engine, on M102 yes. On M103 engine the compression moves the plunger!
ouuh, my fuel distributer is leaking a bit inside my fuel divider....in the middle of the plunger...just a tiny bits as i can see its wet of petrol below the plunger inside...🧐 that oring is small is it a special one? or just a round fuel oring. My car seems running fine, but ill probably need to replace it someday as it will leak more into the fuel divider body
Dear Maui, you will have to replace the seal ring. I will give you a link of the video, I have it.
czcams.com/video/EPTgBZlB6NA/video.html
@@mercedeske ouu theres a video, thank you very much
I am at the point where u are at with the flat head screw driver to pry it apart.. But mine not buging...
What can I do
Leave T27 screws screwed half a way in. Take a hairdryer and start heating it until it's hot. Once it is start hammering the FD from beneath until the two halves "give up". Good luck!
Hi. Which brand repair kit do you advice
Either T&S T&S-TECHNIK from Germany or on ebay the kit from the USA. If you go with the Germans, keep your original o-ring on the sleeve(the one that the plunger rests on).
Hello!
Very interested in taking out the FD and doing this myself. However I just did a smoke test and I see a lot of smoke coming from under the fuel distributor. Is this a sign it is leaking internally? Can I take it off, reassemble it without making adjustments?
Thanks!
Hi! Thanks for the comment! As for your problem, if it concerns the FD, the answer is NO! But you will have to take off the unit called air flow sensor, the thing FD lays on, the big one. There is a rubber underneath and it is cracked, that's why you get the smoke coming out of it. Well, it is a real pain to get it out from the car, many screws to be unscrewed but nothing hard. You will have to order a new part. You will see that on my video(I think it's about the vacuum leaks) airflow rubber boot, that's how I think it's called. That's your issue!
@@mercedeske thanks a lot! I will look into that. I assumed it was the FD, because also when I want to start my car when the engine is warm (30-60min after driving) the engine seems to be flooded and takes 10 seconds for it to start. Thanks again!
@@esc1991 If that's the case, then test the rubber seal. There is one the plunger rests on it. Just activate the fuel pump to run constantly, on my 230e I have to take out the fuel pump relay and bridge the contacts 7&8 with a wire. Then hold the sensor plate for 30 seconds and watch the boot inside. If there is fuel just like fog, it's okay. But if the rubber boot is full of fuel you will have to replace the seal. I'm going to make that video in English, too, I have it in Serbian. Here, tomorrow the video will be available on my channel. The video how you replace that o-ring and under what is the reference number. It can be bought at the dealership. 12 and something euros it costs.
@@mercedeske thanks a lot! Really helpful. But if even you say removing it is a pain, damn 🤔 Thanks again!
@@esc1991 You are welcome. You will have to remove: the throttle linkage, the fuel pressure regulator, the screws holding it, the metal hoses from the FD, from the cold start valve, the rubber hoses that connect idle control valve, etc. But in general nothing hard, just unscrewing bunch of screws.
Estimado profesor, podría explicar su reparación y dónde conseguir los recambios en español.
Un saludo y gracias por todo
Me voy acer el video en español. En cuanto a las piezas de repuesto, búsquelas en Ebay. Thanks for the compliments. Saludos de grandes mas grandes!😉
Mil gracias y todo mi respeto a ud
@@alfacorsesprint5425 Gracias 👍🏻
23:30 easier to take them off with pliers, just grab gently and pull. takes 30 seconds to remove all four 👍
Hi,
Is there part 3 for installation? Thanks
Yes there is.
This is the video on reassembling the FD. I have 4 parts of them, watch them entirely and carefully!!!
czcams.com/video/CbUzb-SEQFU/video.html
@@mercedeske You have been a great help, I re-assembled the fuel distributor and "Houston, we have ignition and lift off"
Now that the engine is running, how do I make calibration and adjustments, since the injectors are changed as well.
Thank you
@@henrysalem5516 Hi 👋🏻 glad to hear that. If you haven't been turning the adjustment screws(those under the protection screw) then there is no need for any adjustments. I can just tell you that if you have replaced the injectors it would be good for you to replace their holders(can create vacuum leaks). Otherwise that's it, no adjustments needed. Just enjoy your ride and Happy Mercedesing 😊 😃
30:23 👀👂
😁😂🤣😅😷🙃
Jesi pomerio sat+⏰- unazad u Mercedesu☕🍀
Ma jok, obično vadim minus klemu.🤣🤣🤣
@@mercedeske
Neema nam dragog Johneea🙄 nije nastimala sat
Samo ga treba pozvati. Javiće se on. Evo, ja ću umesto tebe(da vidimo ko će koga!!!)😁😁😁😁Džoni, plavušane, javi seee! Vidiš da te spominje Darija!!! Nego, vreme je za jednu kavezu😀☕Đevuška, per favore. Hajde da pijemo kafu😉🙂🙃😎
@@mercedeske
Bon appetit ☕😊
🍵 green tea with...jasmine today🍋
@@darijatomic5489 Obrigado, você é muito legal, querida Darija.🙃🙃🙃Bom apetite à você também!🍵😀😉☕😎Bogami, imaš smisao za osećaj!🤣🤣🤣🤣
Prevedi to na nas jezik
Biće, ne brini.
Holy crap. I have no spring behind the plunger.😱
Don't worry, there is none on M103 engines!
@@mercedeske ok. Thanks 🙏
@@mercedeske it's really a shame, I thought I found the mistake 😁