Mercedes Ke-Jetronic - Checking the mechanical part of the system
Vložit
- čas přidán 13. 07. 2024
- If you would be kind to support the channel you can do it via this link
www.paypal.com/paypalme/IvicaFyM
#fixyourmercedes ##mechanicalpartKE##KEJetronic#
In this video I explain how it looks like diagnosing the mechanical part of the KE-Jetronic. The mechanical part is the most important and that's the basis for a good system operation. The sensors are just an improvement (upgrade) for more power. The most critical parts of the system are the INJECTORS, FUEL ACCUMULATOR, PRESSURE REGULATOR whereby the last two are as expensive as hell!!! From my experience in almost 100% of the cases I faced with the injectors were never replaced which creates a big ISSUE. If the car has been driven then the fuel distributor is not an issue unless you drive the car with ethanol containing fuel. The most important tool for the diagnosis and the onlt one is the pressure gauge, everything else is done using common tools. EHA can fail but only if someone has been mesing with the allen screw, without any "feeling" using force.
Watch the video and enjoy because what you will see and hear on this channel you won't on almost any other channel. Happy Mercedesing!
Timecode
0:00 Intro
0:08 - 0:51 Greetings for Nermin on Patreon
0:52 - 1:46 Thanks&Join
1:47 - 4:24 About the video&the mechanical components
4:25 - 7:18 VERY IMPORTANT
7:19 - 9:46 The importance of a pressure gauge
9:47 - 10:09 In case the car won't start
10:10 - 10:34 The residual pressure
10:35 - 10:45 About the check valve and its specs
10:46 - 11:56 A faulty fuel accumulator
11:57 - 15:57 Diagnosing the fuel pump&SYMPTOMS
15:58 - 17:08 Diagnosing the fuel accumulator&SYMPTOMS
17:09 - 18:06 Diagnosing the fuel pressure regulator&SYMPTOMS
18:07 - 18:59 Diagnosing the fuel filter&SYMPTOMS
19:00 - 26:16 Diagnosing the fuel distributor&SYMPTOMS
26:17 - 26:57 Diagnosing the injectors&SYMPTOMS
26:58 - 27:26 Diagnosing the airflow meter&SYMPTOMS
27:27 - 29:53 Diagnosing the rubber boot&SYMPTOMS
29:54 - 32:46 Diagnosing the EHA&SYMPTOMS
32:47 - 33:33 My girls and special people
What am I talking about?
My topic is the KE-Jetronic injection system which I try to demystify as much as I can.
For all of you to understand the system in brief - Developed in 1973 and being mounted into cars up to 1993 as it went in history. But why these to letters!?(KE) K(from German "kontinuierliche Einspritzung" meaning continuos injection, without interruption) the MECHANICAL injection system on which the fuel starts flowing from the fuel tank sucked by the FUEL PUMP and delivered to the FUEL DISTRIBUTOR which sends fuel to the INJECTORS while the majority of it flows through the FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR through its return line back to the fuel tank again. The letter E(elektronische Gemischanpassung/electronically controlled mixture adaptation) has to mark the electronic sensors (the developement starting from early eighties) which had to inform the ECU about the current state of the engine so that the ECU(Electronic Control Unit) then could create current signal in mA(miliampers) and send it to four crucial components for the system - the EHA(the electro-hydraulic actuator, a unit consisting of a magnet, an electromagnet and a baffle plate) which had to fine tune the engine in each of its phases, the ICV(the idle control valve), the unit which was predicted for the engines perfect idle, the X11(the diagnostic socket) where the duty cycle(the ideal mixture) was adjusted and the X11/4(the code reader) - the socket which from any codes were read if present using an OBD1 scanner.
An extraordinary injection system which could be fully repaired in your own garage using a multimeter and a pressure gauge only for its fine tuning, together with some common tools.
"Happy Mercedesing" - Zábava
If there is anything you think I should have said and I haven't, feel free to ask and "write" you in the comments. Happy Mercedesing
Je trouve que cette vidéo est mieux que les premières bien expliquées et plus précise
Je pense que c'est aussi pour ça que je l'ai fait.
Very good video. I’m sure I will be referring to this video soon!
Thanks, Tony. I'm waiting for the car to be started and driven as you promised.😎😎😎🍀🍀🍀💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻
Wonderfull explanation.
Thanks. Happy Mercedesing 🍀 👍🏻 💪🏻 😊
Maestro muy bueno esta clase de verdad q se puede aprender mucho para solucionarle muchos problemas a uno muy agradecido de sus videos auq siempre seria una maravilla q pudiera hacerlo en español de todas manera muchas gracias.
Thanks for explaining this! :) I love your positive vibe! I make a donation when I've got the money :)
Thanks, glad to hear you positive comments! Happy Mercedesing!
@@mercedeske thnx :)
Obrigado pela pormenorizada explicação, excelente trabalho
🖐🏻🖐🏻🖐🏻💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻😊😊😊
que video tan ilustrativo para aprender auq sería una maravilla q fuera en español maestro
Nice video thank you❤
My pleasure. Happy Mercedesing 🍀 👍🏻 💪🏻
¡Gracias!
Gracias a ti tan bien!
One thing that is confusing me is that in the Mercedes repair manual the optimal working pressure is described to be 5,3-5,5 bar and the control pressure should be 0,4/0,5 bar below that (depending on the source). In my case I get approximately 5,6 bar working pressure, which is within the values you mentioned in this video. Could you explain this?
I really appreciate your videos, no one else teaches ke jetronic in such detail.
Thanks. Maybe it's just the matter of the gauge and it's "accuracy". So, if you have the pressure high, the difference within the specs, then don't worry. Greetings, Happy Mercedesing 😊 😃 😀
@@mercedeske no that is not what I meant 😅. You mentioned that the working pressure for m102/m103 is 5,5-5,7 Bar, but the Mercedes manual mentions 5,3-5,5 bar working pressures. I think my pressure gauge is correct, at least it measures 2,8 bar residual pressure, as it should
Clogged up exhaust!
Well, that happens, that's not the injection system. That's exhaust!😟
@@mercedeske, I went from heaven to hell to get my car going again after changing everything in the injection system. Everything was solved when I changed the exhaust pipes, which were full of soot. Your video was excellent on the injection system. But if you are chasing a vibrating bad idle, you might not find it until you sort the exhaust. Found a new full set replacement with Klarius exhausts.
@@siriperera6974 I replaced the exhaust as well.
😎😎😎
💪💪💪
Good day sir,I have a 190e 2.3 1984 a 8 v Mercedes Benz...after changing the cylinder gasket the engine stall while changing gear to 1 and tuned off...black smoke came out from the exhaust muffler....any idea sir? Thanks.
Hey, i looked your video, tried to check, fuel pressure, air mixture screw everything is in spec, car has 130k km. Runs nice on idle, and drive ok, but its lazzy on throotle respons and it reach max 5k rpm. If you driving its even less max rpm. Maybe have any idea?
I bought a broken w201 with lpg, i found out that it was after thaz detonation, like u said, U hose for idle air was fallen and the air sensor plate was stucked very up and cannot be moved. It blown up a lpg fuse too
Remove that crap out of the car!!!!
@@mercedeskeyou mean whole lpg?
@@asineprestanou5221 Yes. It is maybe more economical if you do 20k+ km a year. I removed that from my car and I feel reborn. The only solution for the lpg is the blos system but it can't be found anywhere.
Hello, my m103 300sel vehicle has a cold start problem. After 10 attempts, the vehicle starts jerkily. It takes 1-2 minutes from starting at approximately 300 rpm until it reaches 750-800 rpm. Afterwards everything works normally. If I stop after a short drive, it starts with a single start.
Have you replaced the injectors?
@@mercedeske With new ones. Yes.
Hi. Great video. Could you probably tell what is happening with my m103 3.0? The engine starts really great and the cold engine (cold winter here) is producing really much power. But them it warms up and the power drop radically. Engine idle is about 500 rpm and sometimes even stall when pressing cluch. Starting could be a bit longer. It is also provided with some shaking and misfire like behaviour. So all of this happens when the engine is warm. Spark plugs, distributor rotor, fuel pumps, all the filters, even the fuel distributor (ke jetronic module) has been changed (aftermarket). What could make the problem? Thank you for your help.
Hi. Have you replaced lambda probe?
@@mercedeske I have replaced lambda, temperature sensors. Could wiring or relays be problem?
Does your pressure gauge have the same thread as the injector pipe nut?
Or did you have to use an adaptor?
Both the adaptor as well as the pipe.
Firstly thanks for this video. 24:38 isn’t it 100ml/min full load ? And 30ml/min partial load Doesn’t matter the engine ? I think I saw in another video from you. or am I making a mistake ?
Yes, exactly. I'm glad you remember what I was talking about. Those are Bosch specs which I hold for inaccurate and I'm going to prove it. Because 100ml says both for 1.8l engine and for the 5.6l one. This is more realistic. I must be talking about that. Greetings
@@mercedeske ok thank you! yes this could be a good topic for a future video 👍 greetings
where did you get that pressure tester gauge? I'm looking to get the same one
Hehehehe. The one is the oil pressure indicator for tractors Ferguson 🚜 😊
@mercedeske hahaha you're the man. Joining the patreon of things don't go well, have been toying with a 2.3 for 2 years now trying to get it running. Cheers 🍷
Hi, I have an Audi 100 ke jetronic system, 2.0 1992 with symptoms: very hard start cold but also warm BUT no power loss, good idle, and once started it starts fine, an starts every time, but after 30 mins it starts bad again?
(long cranking and sometimes once started it stalls but after a second start its fine, its like the engine doesnt get fuel or it runs too rich for a few seconds because I can smell fuel sometimes too after start)
Check the fuel quantities you get from the cyllinders, they must be within 5% AT MOST!
Can I ask a question about the fuel system? I have a 92 190e. Here in the UK E5 fuel (5% ethanol) is getting difficult to find, most fuel stations now just sell E10 (10% ethanol). I have never used E10 as I have no idea if the fuel system will be damaged ? Can you give any advice? Thanks.
Try to avoid ethanol containing fuel. If you have to, don't fill the car up, that's what I can tell you because ethanol creates mesh inside the fuel distributor and it will clog all the filters inside and there are many of them. Once that happens you will get uneven fuel flow towards the injectors. Pour as much as you think you will burn, don't let that fuel to be sitting inside the fuel system.
@@mercedeske thanks chap👍🏼 I thought that would be the case, I guess when only e10 can be bought all the part affected by ethanol will have to be replaced?
@@theobster If ethanol has been sitting in the car for too long, more than 3 months.
Hey Ivica, sorry maybe this one will be a little bit off topic. but i write this question here, so anyone can read and learn in the future.
is there any ways to check if our ignition is 100% healthy or not?
like my car G300 has similar ignition system as 300E.
my point is, is there a method to check ignition parts like Coil, Rotor, spark plug etc? since i change my coil 12 years ago and i want to know if it still good or not. Thanks
No, it's not off topic. I will explain about that.
@@mercedeske im waiting for the video!
@@mkwiipro5912 It will be soon.
Hello! It's great that I found you! I'm not really good at English. I have a beautiful 230CE w124. I replaced the KE jetronik on it, from another m102 of my own, with a 1.8 engine. Is it okay that the cm3 is different? The error phenomenon remained the same. Cold low idle which will be good sometimes. The car runs well up to 3000rpm, it is torquey. After that it just spins, no power.
Vacuum ok, lambda probe ok, EHA ok, Fuel pressure ok. Ignition system ok.
Where do you think the error could be? I think, maybe cable harmess?
Thanks!
Hello. You should not change the heart, that leads nowhere. For now check the EHA how it's set and whether you have the right values. I was speaking about that. Have you replaced the potentiometer? If you haven't do that at first and then check the adjustments on the EHA.
@@mercedeske
thanks for the reply!
I rebuilt the entire KE jet head from the 1.8 190E. The operation has improved, but errors remain, which someone will blame on the fuel battery. According to others, it is a cable bundle. The idling speed in the 190-E was perfect with this system, it operated in a completely factory new way.
Now the idle speed is too low again, if the engine is warm then it is ok. I also rebuilt the idle valve.
They wanted to tighten the CO screw, I didn't allow it, because the car doesn't go at high throttle. When the gas pedal is half pressed, it works perfectly, if I keep pressing it quickly, it doesn't! By pressing it down slowly, it follows what I want, so good. EHA was also rebuilt from the 190.
I also checked the ignition.
Hi dear..... What if fuel pump deliver fuel more than 1 liter in 40 seconds i test it according your instructions pump deliver almost 1.5 liter 230E M102 engines
Then the pump is okay.
@@mercedeske thanks
Maestro UD debería dar esa explicación en español para entender mejor lo de los vídeos .
Hi Im trying to pay for membership but it says my bank dosent work with your system of banking.. how can i pay in an other way???? Hi from Denmark
www.paypal.com/paypalme/IvicaFyM
You can also use the option THANKS. Thank you in advance!
How can i contact you ?
On my instagram page.
instagram.com/fix_your_mercedes/