Mercedes Ke-Jetronic- Airflow meter explained&A billion dollar tool - A special video for the Member
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- čas přidán 6. 07. 2024
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#fixyourmercedes##mercedeskejetronic##airflowmeter#
Timecode
0:00 Intro
0:09 - 1:11 About the video plus membership
1:12 - 2:00 About the CO screw
2:01 - 4:12 The screw and its key inside
4:13 - 5:10 Illustrating the lever moving
5:11 - 8:10 How much I should turn the CO screw
8:11 - 12:05 The CO screw all the way counterclockwise/videos
12:06 - 14:49 The airflow meter fully turned clockwise
14:50 - 20:10 About the airflow meter as a unit VERY IMPORTANT!!!
20:11 - 24:55 About the billion dollar tool!!!
24:56 - 25:42 My girls plus the gratitude to special people
What am I talking about?
My topic is the KE-Jetronic injection system which I try to demystify as much as I can.
For all of you to understand the system in brief - Developed in 1973 and being mounted into cars up to 1993 as it went in history. But why these to letters!?(KE) K(from German "kontinuierliche Einspritzung" meaning continuos injection, without interruption) the MECHANICAL injection system on which the fuel starts flowing from the fuel tank sucked by the FUEL PUMP and delivered to the FUEL DISTRIBUTOR which sends fuel to the INJECTORS while the majority of it flows through the FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR through its return line back to the fuel tank again. The letter E(elektronische Gemischanpassung/electronically controlled mixture adaptation) has to mark the electronic sensors (the developement starting from early eighties) which had to inform the ECU about the current state of the engine so that the ECU(Electronic Control Unit) then could create current signal in mA(miliampers) and send it to four crucial components for the system - the EHA(the electro-hydraulic actuator, a unit consisting of a magnet, an electromagnet and a baffle plate) which had to fine tune the engine in each of its phases, the ICV(the idle control valve), the unit which was predicted for the engines perfect idle, the X11(the diagnostic socket) where the duty cycle(the ideal mixture) was adjusted and the X11/4(the code reader) - the socket which from any codes were read if present using an OBD1 scanner.
An extraordinary injection system which could be fully repaired in your own garage using a multimeter and a pressure gauge only for its fine tuning, together with some common tools.
"Happy Mercedesing" - Zábava
Bonjour ivica encore un bon astuce pour le réglage de la vis de co jusqu’au moment où l’essence sort par le trou du distributeur je ne l’avais pas cette astuce là merci
Bonjour Jean et merci. C'est l'astuce principalement pour le K-Jet, mais il peut également être utilisé pour le KE, puis il suffit de l'ajuster en fonction de la tension et c'est tout. Mes salutations!
I came here to say thank you for all the help and to encourage you all to keep at it. I sold my 190e and will never again own a Throttle Body Injection vehicle. I threw in the towel. Good luck gents, and thanks for all the fish.
Always doing great job!!!!
Thanks.
I want to watch the women and the cars. Love the videos.
Okay, I will add them more in the videos! Hehehehehehehe
Saludos amigos Mercedeando!!
Saludo, mi amigo. ¡La morena te está saludando!
@@mercedeske igualmente un abrazote a todos!!
😊❤
Que bueno sería en español maestro.
Me voy hacer el video en espanol!
Gracias maestro.
Best video!
Thanks a lot.
Simply the best of the best!
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻🍀🍀🍀
Ivica, I've watched several of your videos that got me on the right track trying to get my 119 engine to run decently. First, I got the electrical system to show that when foot is off gas pedal, ohm is 0 (or vise versa, I forget as to O at off or on). Soon as pedal is pushed, ohm goes off zero. When driving now, I can hear the engine respond, when I take foot off gas (gas shuts off to the engine). I had to replace the fuel regulator which was leaking and car would bearly run until it didn't run until I replaced the fuel regulator. Car was tolerable. Then, I replaced the ETA valve. 8mm of depth has been the sweet spot for me. That is 8 mm from screw to bottom edge of caliper. The 0 shows at 9, but I like using the bottom edge to keep it simple. Then on the plate adjustment, I found in my case that at just flush (almost zero play) works well and car loves it. Going clockwise richens the mixture to black smoke when I step on it that I learned from experimentation. Currently at flush, the idle is where it should be on the rpm scale. I have seen 1500 at idle before, before I sort of think I understand what the car is trying to say to me. I changed plugs also. Gapped them .40. Car ran as best as it ever has for me. So, me, I gap to .60 just for test to try to get better fuel mileage. Car sooted up the plugs rather quickly, so I cleaned them and gapped back to .40 (book says .32 but .40 made an immediate improvement). The book says 13 mpg combined. So, it might be as good as it gets. Might. But knowing Mercedes they allow for large adjustments in their cars. Anyway, you helped me get on the right track. Maybe some others can benefit from what I've learned. Still have lots of just regular tuneup stuff to do like wires and injectors analysis. But in the meantime, the 119 although guzzling fuel, at 80 mph or so, it feels like it is yawning. Thanks again. Oh, don't try to be as smart as Bosch engineers. The car is simple.
Glad to be of help. Enjoy the ride and Happy Mercedesing!
Can the inner 3mm allen key be removed? So you could just use long 3mm key from outside and not disassemble the sensor plate?
If you remove the bridge only, but I don't see why you should be doing that!
This happend to me, twice, i was turning it so bad clockwise and find out, that i can not reach it no more... But there is one way more you can do it without disasemble it. You have to take off the plate and lift that paddle inside up and allen key to that hole, you have to use little of strenght, but you can do it. Happend to me second time, but in the counterclockwise, in this case, i was just pressing plate randomly down, until i hit that hole good way and was able to fix it without disasemble again, but its maybe my luck.
Okay, next time watch how much you turn that screw. No need for more than one whole rotation.
can you please tell me the nominal values of system and working fuel pressure for m104.980 engine? i've seen so many of yours videos and you are helping a lot
System pressure 6.4, working pressure 6bar
@@mercedeske awesome thank you very much!!. keep he good work going
@@lordwnz Thanks 😊 Happy Mercedesing 🍀
I have a question regarding initial setup. I did a rebuild on the distributor, diaphragm and o rings. I have backed off the small wheel that contacts the plunger fully counterclockwise, but yet the plunger still makes contact and goes up quite a bit when I drop the distributor onto the airflow meter body. It doesn't seem right, won't that immediately cause too much fuel to flow?
You must remember the distance between the nut and the screw. Usually it is either 0.6 or 0.4mm. The plunger has to slide easily without any resistance. If it is pushed too much in, the fuel will start flowing out, if the screw is too much out the plunger won't go all the way in and the car is not going to deliver all the power and it won't idle as it is supposed to.
I got a little confused, did you say i need to disconnect the fuel pump relay before i turn the screw clockwise
Yes and put a wire in the contacts 87&30, that way the pump is going to be working continuously.
@@mercedeske ok thank you for the help
I have a 560sl , i am able to get the relay out its behind the glove box hard to get to but to connect the wire in there i can't see anything, is there another way to keep the fuel pumps running @mercedeske
@@mercedeskewhere can I find the contacts 87 and 30
@@louievigil8662 When you remove the fuel pump relay