The internet, like television was originally touted as an educational tool. I still believe it can be, no fluff, no begging and pleading for subscribers and likes. Simply put out there for knowledge. Thank You.
People like you do so much to help so many others. Thank You! I hadn't used mine for 20 years. I didn't know that McCulloch had gone out of business until today. Because of you I was able to get mine back in good condition!
Awesome videos. A+. This fella gave me the confidence to rebuild a eager beaver givin to me 25 years ago. Very good instructional video. Top notch mechanic!!!!
Thank you for the excellent video. I'm normally pretty good at figuring out how to take things apart, but this video covers a couple things I might not have been able to figure out on my own, like how to remove the fuel+oil tank from the housing and how to disconnect the throttle linkage. This was my first time taking a chainsaw apart and this video was a tremendous help.
You’re welcome. The top handle mini’s are, with few exceptions, the “problem child” of the chainsaw repair world. But they punch way above their weight class. Though most say they are ‘Disposable”, I respectfully disagree.
Yes they are, but they punch way above their weight class. Get one working and you’ll be walking around the back yard looking for stuff to cut because you don’t want to put it down.
@@j.k.mcclead9207 I tuned it yesterday and it does cut good for its size. I had to make the fuel line for it. I cut it to length, inserted a coat hanger into it. I then formed the shape of the factory bends with the coat hanger. Once I did that, I inserted a piece of shrink wrap over the bends and heated. After cooling it held the factory shape and works great. Anyway, I wanted to thank you again for making our endeavor easier with your videos.
Really appreciate the whole process you showed with this one! I recently picked up a 160s with the case and bar cover for $20, I really love tinkering with all sorts of mechanical things so I figured this would be a fun challenge. Your videos have been such a help for all the things that I've had questions about along the way, and all the little tips and tricks that only come with years of experience. Currently, I've got everything cleaned, the carb rebuilt and I'm getting a spark - started seeing some combustion for the first time yesterday when I cranked it up but I haven't gotten it to run yet. Two things that have happened along the way that I wonder if you've encountered or have a fix for: First, the threaded plastic piece has broken in half in the back of the handle - I assume someone over-tightened them at some point and cracked them. Is there any way to fix that or should I just look to buy a new handle? Second, when I first took everything apart and got it fully degreased/cleaned, I pulled the fuel pickup from the tank and haven’t found a new one. Is that something that needs to be replaced or will it run without it? I also was curious if there’s any type of fuel filter on these models or if that acts as a sort of filter as well
Was just wondering what size of fuel line would go on one these types of Mcculloch chainsaws. I have the mac 160s. Thanks so much for having these videos on CZcams they've really been very very helpful to me. Thanks again
I prefer to use 1/8 inside diameter x 1/4 outside diameter, the thicker wall keeps it shape better and reduces the chance of the hose collapsing from heat. 1/8 x 3/16 (easier to find) works just as well. Pay the little bit extra for Tygon, it is a far superior product than the cheap no-name stuff.
Thank you very much. My Eager Beaver does not have a fuel line into the gas tank but rather some type of large fibrous hard felt like material filtering the gas.
Yeah getting that throttle linkage hooked back to that trigger piece in that notch is not an easy thing. I had to put it down for a while cuz I was getting aggravated but yeah I'll come up with some needle nose to do it
I’m sure McCulloch had some proprietary tool at the factory that made it simple and easy to attatch the linkage, but for the rest of us, needle nose pliers and cursing, lots of cursing.
Very nice work! Must have have gone through a learning curve in setting up the camera -its really excellent. I'm already guessing why mine won't start after seeing the worn-through insulation issue. Will find out tommorow.
does the ignition coil (electr. ignition model) have a 2nd cable ? seems the coil have a hole where a cable should be?? and is it connected to the motor?
Thanks for your videos. I am refreshing the same saw. Do you know what size the fuel line is? I figure 1/8 or 3/32? Splitting hairs but figured you might know.
I use a few different methods. PB Blaster, WD40 to break up heavy grease and dried pine sap. Dawn dishwashing liquid and a slop sink for major cleaning. A parts washer for the smaller more intricate parts. An ultrasonic cleaner for carburetors, and carb spray to get the spots I can’t reach and final degrease.
I APPRECIATE your videos on the Mac Eager Beaver Chainsaws! I an currently working on one for a friend and I'm pretty sure I wouldn't have been able to tackle it without your help! I have two questions if you would be so kind-- I wonder how the gas tank vents as I don't see one on my model which is 60012312? Also what distance should I set the gap between the coil and the flywheel? Thanks in advance for any help!
The tanks don’t have duck bill valves ( though they should ) the tank caps really don’t seal that well, so they let air in. It may be by design. For the flywheel to coil gap, I use the cardboard from a spark plug packaging. .008 - .012 is technically the proper gap, but the cardboard is .010 which is right where you need to be.
Any suggestions on where to find an ignition coil? I know they don't make new ones anymore but I'm just wondering if it's worth rebuilding this thing or parting out lol. All I've seen are people rebuilding new coils and I'm out on that.
I usually eBay them, if it’s a black cased ( electronic ignition ) top handle, the 110, 120, 130, 160s, eager beaver 2.0, or the reconditioned 2.0, all use the same coil. The yellow cased (points ignition) 110, 120, 130, 140, mac mini 25, 30, 35, again all use the same coil. There’s also a way to try and resurrect the coil you have. Leon’s chainsaw parts and repair on youtube, has a tutorial where you “bake” your coil on a low heat for a couple of hours, and he’s had pretty good success bringing them back.
I have a question if my mccullough 120 doesn't have a chain brake it has the cover for the clutch but not the chain brake can i just get a whole new cover and put it on an it'll work or no
To put on a clutch cover with a chain brake is a simple “bolt on” process. They are pretty much universal fit. The only hitch may be the muffler. The “flat style” is required for proper clearance.
Yes, That’s why few people will touch them. The carb and the coil sit on top of each other tucked into the case. The plus is the tank, oiler and bar stud are accessible with just removing two screws at the front of the case.
So, I took it on, got that little stinker apart, the carb cleaned and everything put back together. The only issue I have is with the throttle/trigger. I took the " front to back" handle off and the trigger doesnt seem to interact...?
Do you have to prime that carb somehow after putting it back together...I cant get mine to stay running after cleaning the carb...and also how fast does the gas come out the tank since it has that long cloth filter in there to go thru...does it just drip out the output of the tank or have a pretty good stream, mine drips out.
For the most part, the carbs are “self priming”, but a few squirts of fuel down the throat of the carb during the initial start up will help the process along. The filter should drip at a fairly fast rate, if not, they can be removed, cleaned and put back. I have seen them on eBay, but they are pricey.
@@j.k.mcclead9207 Thanks...I have had it running several times with starter fluid, running for about 3 seconds each time, and no luck with it priming. I guess I have to take it back apart and fill the fuel line with fuel and try again...
@@kennynvake4hve584 The carb should pull fuel on its own. If not, re-check the order of assembly and needle valve hight, as they are the most popular places thing go wrong. I also recommend using a squirt bottle filled with 2 cycle mix to prime instead of starter fluid, as starter fluid does not contain any lubrication and may damage internal parts.
These particular filters are living proof that you CAN get a square peg into a round hole (the filter is rectangular shaped). I've tried from both inside and outside the tank, and the “easiest” way is to drop the filter inside the tank, guide it to the opening with a long screwdriver, and with a thin pair of needle nose pliers, twist and pull until it’s 1/4” from the end. ( You’ll need to leave room for the fuel line fitting ).
I realize this is a repair video but... How frequently does the bar and chain need oil delivered during operation? I have only used saws with automatic oilers. Is there a rule of thumb or some things things to watch for in particular? Also, thanks for these excellent videos.
They are available on eBay, but they are a little pricey. Cleaning them ( if possible ) with carb spray or brake cleaner might do the trick. And yes they are square filters in a round hole.
What state are you in and how much do you charge to clean carb. I am sure that the carb is the issue, I have pulled and pulled nothing, I have spark ,but the plug has never been wet.
Thank you for your confidence, but I am in the midst of moving and it will be a while before my “shop” is up and running. Meanwhile, why not give it a shot yourself. Rebuild kits are cheap and plentiful on eBay and the carbs are simple to rebuild. Just remember to cut the new fuel line the same length as the old, too long and it will kink cutting off fuel flow.
Squirt a little starting fluid into the carb throat. If it doesn't fire then get a new spark plug. That's what my issue turned out to be. Was surprised cause the plug didn't look too bad. But yet a little carbon buildup caused it not to fire.
Hello. I also have a McCulloch Eager Beaver 2.0 C.I.D. A non-starter. Following your excellent instructions I have now stripped to a bare engine. New spark plug and carburettor repair kit is required. The carb is a Zama M7 7XP. Looking at the IPL the model number for Eager Beavers all start with 600 xxxxx. How can I determine what model number is mine so that I can order the correct carb repair kit? Thanks.
The black cased 2.0’s all use the same ZAMA carb. M1-M7 all use the same rebuild kit. Whether you have the 110,120,130,160s or the Eager Beaver 2.0, the only thing different are the stickers they put on the outside.
Thanks for the info. There appears to be numerous options to purchase a full repair kit for the ZAMA M1-M7 carb series. OK manufactured within a Chinese factory!!! Have you videoed and loaded such carb rebuild? Or know of an uploaded video? Thanks.
@@glosterboybirder I prefer to purchase from US sellers, though generally less expensive, shipping times from china can be lengthy. As far as rebuild videos, a youtube search either for the ZAMA M1-M7 or the Walbro MDC. They are virtually the same carb with the same rebuild technique.
Thanks. Yes there are numerous carb rebuild videos to follow. The fuel line is a bit dodgy. So might be a good idea to replace. Here in the UK all measurements are metric. I believe the current fuel line I have is measured in what I would call imperial, feet and inches. To ensure I purchase the nearest metric equivalent what is the imperial sizes O/D and I/D. Thanks.
From the fitting side, reach in with a pair of needle nose pliers and gently work it out. If not too bad, you can clean and reuse, if not, they are available on eBay.
Unfortunately not. The 2.1CI (35cc) is used on the 300 series of saws ex: 320, 330, 340. It uses a different form factor that does not fit the "top handle case.
@@j.k.mcclead9207 it's actually smoking really bad. I haven't took it apart yet but took the spark plug out and its full of it but this may happened when it was turned over. But will not start now.
@@shaneshumake8091 The pump uses a pressure pulse from the engine to push a disc with a small metal shaft forward, a spring behind the disc pushes the assembly back, and the process repeats with every rotation of the engine. The rubber O-Ring is there to seal the pump to the engine to prevent the “pulse” from escaping. Oil should not be on the inside of the pump where the disc, shaft and return spring are, if oil is present, then the pump has failed. There is a hole in the engine side of the pump mounting that leads directly into the lower crank, if the pump has indeed failed, the back wash of oil will enter the saw through that hole.
Found out the shaft the piston rides in was push all the way down causing the oil not to come out to lube the bar and chain causing the pump to fail. Wouldn't do any good to rebuild. So I replaced the complete oiler assembly. Works great now. Runs and cuts good. Never would have known how to do this job without your video. Thanks Shane
Eager Beaver 2.0's are manual oiler only. They lack the pressure pulse hole necessary to drive the pump plunger, so adding a pump to a EB would not work.
If it’s the black cased saw, the carb is a ZAMA M1-M7. The IPL shows the “Carburetor Assembly” but does not list the parts individually. Your best bet is to eBay the carb or a beat up donor saw that has the parts that you need.
@@j.k.mcclead9207 Thanks so much. I believe the idle pin in my original EB 2 broke off a bit. I have to break out the magnifier to check for sure. If that is the case, I do not think that carb will be salvageable. So I took my other one apart but when I pulled out the engine from the case there was this black 2 inch pin type piece that fell out and not sure where it went. Any insight? TYIA
@@samuelmaddoxsr.8923 If it has a primer bulb, then it is the same as a Mac 3200 series (3214, 3216). The Mac 110, 120, 130, 140, 160s, and the Eager Beaver 2.0 are self priming and do not have a primer bulb. The bulbs themselves are plentiful on eBay. just make sure they are the snap-in kind.
Great video
I was trying to figure out how to get to the carb for a rebuild
Now I know how to disable for any future repairs
Love this little saw
why isnt all youtube like this ? good quality ,clear directions and to the point , thanks so much.
The internet, like television was originally touted as an educational tool. I still believe it can be, no fluff, no begging and pleading for subscribers and likes. Simply put out there for knowledge. Thank You.
Just bought one of these off of Ebay and have watched a LOT of tear-downs. Yours is the best. Great job!
Thank You.
People like you do so much to help so many others. Thank You! I hadn't used mine for 20 years. I didn't know that McCulloch had gone out of business until today. Because of you I was able to get mine back in good condition!
Thank You. CZcams, like television, was touted as an educational tool. I still believe it should be.
Awesome videos. A+. This fella gave me the confidence to rebuild a eager beaver givin to me 25 years ago. Very good instructional video. Top notch mechanic!!!!
EXCELLANT tutorial. Best I've seen. And timely, as I need to repair my eager beaver. Thank You.
Thank you for the excellent video. I'm normally pretty good at figuring out how to take things apart, but this video covers a couple things I might not have been able to figure out on my own, like how to remove the fuel+oil tank from the housing and how to disconnect the throttle linkage. This was my first time taking a chainsaw apart and this video was a tremendous help.
You’re welcome. The top handle mini’s are, with few exceptions, the “problem child” of the chainsaw repair world. But they punch way above their weight class. Though most say they are ‘Disposable”, I respectfully disagree.
Thank you sir for the video. My 13-year old son and I just got one of these running again. They are cantankerous little saws to work on.
Yes they are, but they punch way above their weight class. Get one working and you’ll be walking around the back yard looking for stuff to cut because you don’t want to put it down.
@@j.k.mcclead9207 I tuned it yesterday and it does cut good for its size. I had to make the fuel line for it. I cut it to length, inserted a coat hanger into it. I then formed the shape of the factory bends with the coat hanger. Once I did that, I inserted a piece of shrink wrap over the bends and heated. After cooling it held the factory shape and works great. Anyway, I wanted to thank you again for making our endeavor easier with your videos.
Really appreciate the whole process you showed with this one! I recently picked up a 160s with the case and bar cover for $20, I really love tinkering with all sorts of mechanical things so I figured this would be a fun challenge. Your videos have been such a help for all the things that I've had questions about along the way, and all the little tips and tricks that only come with years of experience. Currently, I've got everything cleaned, the carb rebuilt and I'm getting a spark - started seeing some combustion for the first time yesterday when I cranked it up but I haven't gotten it to run yet.
Two things that have happened along the way that I wonder if you've encountered or have a fix for:
First, the threaded plastic piece has broken in half in the back of the handle - I assume someone over-tightened them at some point and cracked them. Is there any way to fix that or should I just look to buy a new handle?
Second, when I first took everything apart and got it fully degreased/cleaned, I pulled the fuel pickup from the tank and haven’t found a new one. Is that something that needs to be replaced or will it run without it? I also was curious if there’s any type of fuel filter on these models or if that acts as a sort of filter as well
Was just wondering what size of fuel line would go on one these types of Mcculloch chainsaws. I have the mac 160s. Thanks so much for having these videos on CZcams they've really been very very helpful to me. Thanks again
I prefer to use 1/8 inside diameter x 1/4 outside diameter, the thicker wall keeps it shape better and reduces the chance of the hose collapsing from heat. 1/8 x 3/16 (easier to find) works just as well. Pay the little bit extra for Tygon, it is a far superior product than the cheap no-name stuff.
Thank you so much for your video - I have a cone shape spring that I have no idea were it should be and was hoping you can help me figure it out
Thank you very much. My Eager Beaver does not have a fuel line into the gas tank but rather some type of large fibrous hard felt like material filtering the gas.
Most times that “filter” can be cleaned, I have seen them on eBay, but the price is pretty steep for a simple piece of felt.
@@j.k.mcclead9207 Thanks for the reply, If I can not clean it I will remove it and replace with a small in tank filter and hose.
Yeah getting that throttle linkage hooked back to that trigger piece in that notch is not an easy thing. I had to put it down for a while cuz I was getting aggravated but yeah I'll come up with some needle nose to do it
I’m sure McCulloch had some proprietary tool at the factory that made it simple and easy to attatch the linkage, but for the rest of us, needle nose pliers and cursing, lots of cursing.
@@j.k.mcclead9207 yes cursing definitely like I said I had to put it down and take a break from that linkage.
Very nice work! Must have have gone through a learning curve in setting up the camera -its really excellent. I'm already guessing why mine won't start after seeing the worn-through insulation issue. Will find out tommorow.
itsReallyLou thank you, I’ve had “used once and put back in the case” units with this no - spark issue.
does the ignition coil (electr. ignition model) have a 2nd cable ? seems the coil have a hole where a cable should be?? and is it connected to the motor?
Thanks much
So...how does the carb come off for rebuild?
Thanks for your videos. I am refreshing the same saw. Do you know what size the fuel line is? I figure 1/8 or 3/32? Splitting hairs but figured you might know.
Great video! Thank you for all your instruction. What are you using for cleaning up the parts?
I use a few different methods. PB Blaster, WD40 to break up heavy grease and dried pine sap. Dawn dishwashing liquid and a slop sink for major cleaning. A parts washer for the smaller more intricate parts. An ultrasonic cleaner for carburetors, and carb spray to get the spots I can’t reach and final degrease.
Great video! I’m looking to ID my eager beaver to purchase a new ignition coil. Any ideas where to purchase one? Thanks
Ebay is my go-to source for most of my parts. #84957 is the part number for the electronic ignition (black cased) models.
I APPRECIATE your videos on the Mac Eager Beaver Chainsaws! I an currently working on one for a friend and I'm pretty sure I wouldn't have been able to tackle it without your help! I have two questions if you would be so kind-- I wonder how the gas tank vents as I don't see one on my model which is 60012312? Also what distance should I set the gap between the coil and the flywheel? Thanks in advance for any help!
The tanks don’t have duck bill valves ( though they should ) the tank caps really don’t seal that well, so they let air in. It may be by design. For the flywheel to coil gap, I use the cardboard from a spark plug packaging. .008 - .012 is technically the proper gap, but the cardboard is .010 which is right where you need to be.
Any suggestions on where to find an ignition coil? I know they don't make new ones anymore but I'm just wondering if it's worth rebuilding this thing or parting out lol. All I've seen are people rebuilding new coils and I'm out on that.
I usually eBay them, if it’s a black cased ( electronic ignition ) top handle, the 110, 120, 130, 160s, eager beaver 2.0, or the reconditioned 2.0, all use the same coil. The yellow cased (points ignition) 110, 120, 130, 140, mac mini 25, 30, 35, again all use the same coil. There’s also a way to try and resurrect the coil you have. Leon’s chainsaw parts and repair on youtube, has a tutorial where you “bake” your coil on a low heat for a couple of hours, and he’s had pretty good success bringing them back.
I have a question if my mccullough 120 doesn't have a chain brake it has the cover for the clutch but not the chain brake can i just get a whole new cover and put it on an it'll work or no
To put on a clutch cover with a chain brake is a simple “bolt on” process. They are pretty much universal fit. The only hitch may be the muffler. The “flat style” is required for proper clearance.
Great tutorial and for my potentially dumb question...the whole engine has to come out to access the carburetor?
Yes, That’s why few people will touch them. The carb and the coil sit on top of each other tucked into the case. The plus is the tank, oiler and bar stud are accessible with just removing two screws at the front of the case.
Thanks for the response. I'm not sure I have the patience to take it on but I hate giving up on it.
So, I took it on, got that little stinker apart, the carb cleaned and everything put back together. The only issue I have is with the throttle/trigger. I took the " front to back" handle off and the trigger doesnt seem to interact...?
Please disregard my last note and thanks again for an awesome tutorial!
Do you have to prime that carb somehow after putting it back together...I cant get mine to stay running after cleaning the carb...and also how fast does the gas come out the tank since it has that long cloth filter in there to go thru...does it just drip out the output of the tank or have a pretty good stream, mine drips out.
For the most part, the carbs are “self priming”, but a few squirts of fuel down the throat of the carb during the initial start up will help the process along. The filter should drip at a fairly fast rate, if not, they can be removed, cleaned and put back. I have seen them on eBay, but they are pricey.
@@j.k.mcclead9207 Thanks...I have had it running several times with starter fluid, running for about 3 seconds each time, and no luck with it priming. I guess I have to take it back apart and fill the fuel line with fuel and try again...
@@kennynvake4hve584 The carb should pull fuel on its own. If not, re-check the order of assembly and needle valve hight, as they are the most popular places thing go wrong. I also recommend using a squirt bottle filled with 2 cycle mix to prime instead of starter fluid, as starter fluid does not contain any lubrication and may damage internal parts.
How about getting the filter back in the tank
These particular filters are living proof that you CAN get a square peg into a round hole (the filter is rectangular shaped). I've tried from both inside and outside the tank, and the “easiest” way is to drop the filter inside the tank, guide it to the opening with a long screwdriver, and with a thin pair of needle nose pliers, twist and pull until it’s 1/4” from the end. ( You’ll need to leave room for the fuel line fitting ).
I realize this is a repair video but...
How frequently does the bar and chain need oil delivered during operation? I have only used saws with automatic oilers. Is there a rule of thumb or some things things to watch for in particular?
Also, thanks for these excellent videos.
McCulloch recommends 30 -45 pumps per min. I do about 20 per min. of cutting. More if the wood is sappy. (pine)
@@j.k.mcclead9207 Thank you.
@@j.k.mcclead9207 Hmmm... maybe that's why my chain stops cutting so soon after sharpening. I was doing 3 or 4 pumps of oil a minute.
Thank You. You can’t oil too much, McCulloch recommends a couple of pumps every 5 seconds of use.
I'm rebuilding one this week. Where do you find fuel filters for these?
They are available on eBay, but they are a little pricey. Cleaning them ( if possible ) with carb spray or brake cleaner might do the trick. And yes they are square filters in a round hole.
EBay
i have no spark. I have checked the ground wire and it is complete no cuts
Same issue here! Ever got it resolved??
What state are you in and how much do you charge to clean carb. I am sure that the carb is the issue, I have pulled and pulled nothing, I have spark ,but the plug has never been wet.
Thank you for your confidence, but I am in the midst of moving and it will be a while before my “shop” is up and running. Meanwhile, why not give it a shot yourself. Rebuild kits are cheap and plentiful on eBay and the carbs are simple to rebuild. Just remember to cut the new fuel line the same length as the old, too long and it will kink cutting off fuel flow.
Squirt a little starting fluid into the carb throat. If it doesn't fire then get a new spark plug. That's what my issue turned out to be. Was surprised cause the plug didn't look too bad. But yet a little carbon buildup caused it not to fire.
Hello. I also have a McCulloch Eager Beaver 2.0 C.I.D. A non-starter. Following your excellent instructions I have now stripped to a bare engine. New spark plug and carburettor repair kit is required. The carb is a Zama M7 7XP. Looking at the IPL the model number for Eager Beavers all start with 600 xxxxx. How can I determine what model number is mine so that I can order the correct carb repair kit? Thanks.
The black cased 2.0’s all use the same ZAMA carb. M1-M7 all use the same rebuild kit. Whether you have the 110,120,130,160s or the Eager Beaver 2.0, the only thing different are the stickers they put on the outside.
Thanks for the info. There appears to be numerous options to purchase a full repair kit for the ZAMA M1-M7 carb series. OK manufactured within a Chinese factory!!! Have you videoed and loaded such carb rebuild? Or know of an uploaded video? Thanks.
@@glosterboybirder I prefer to purchase from US sellers, though generally less expensive, shipping times from china can be lengthy. As far as rebuild videos, a youtube search either for the ZAMA M1-M7 or the Walbro MDC. They are virtually the same carb with the same rebuild technique.
Thanks. Yes there are numerous carb rebuild videos to follow. The fuel line is a bit dodgy. So might be a good idea to replace. Here in the UK all measurements are metric. I believe the current fuel line I have is measured in what I would call imperial, feet and inches. To ensure I purchase the nearest metric equivalent what is the imperial sizes O/D and I/D. Thanks.
How do you replace the gas filter that’s in tank
From the fitting side, reach in with a pair of needle nose pliers and gently work it out. If not too bad, you can clean and reuse, if not, they are available on eBay.
I have a 2.1ci. Is there a video series for the 2.1. Or are they close enough 2.0 should be okay?
Unfortunately not. The 2.1CI (35cc) is used on the 300 series of saws ex: 320, 330, 340. It uses a different form factor that does not fit the "top handle case.
@@j.k.mcclead9207 Thank you for the quick reply. very much appreciated.
I have a mcculloch mac 160s dumping bar oil in the crankcase. Would it happen to be the O ring between the pump and crankcase. Thanks
Is it dumping oil into the engine (smoking like crazy) or all over the inside of the case?
@@j.k.mcclead9207 it's actually smoking really bad. I haven't took it apart yet but took the spark plug out and its full of it but this may happened when it was turned over. But will not start now.
A friend told me that the oil pump maybe or was in need of a rebuild
@@shaneshumake8091 The pump uses a pressure pulse from the engine to push a disc with a small metal shaft forward, a spring behind the disc pushes the assembly back, and the process repeats with every rotation of the engine. The rubber O-Ring is there to seal the pump to the engine to prevent the “pulse” from escaping. Oil should not be on the inside of the pump where the disc, shaft and return spring are, if oil is present, then the pump has failed. There is a hole in the engine side of the pump mounting that leads directly into the lower crank, if the pump has indeed failed, the back wash of oil will enter the saw through that hole.
Found out the shaft the piston rides in was push all the way down causing the oil not to come out to lube the bar and chain causing the pump to fail. Wouldn't do any good to rebuild. So I replaced the complete oiler assembly. Works great now. Runs and cuts good. Never would have known how to do this job without your video. Thanks Shane
Does it have automatic oiler?
Eager Beaver 2.0's are manual oiler only. They lack the pressure pulse hole necessary to drive the pump plunger, so adding a pump to a EB would not work.
What is the model number for the carburetor for the eager beaver 2.0?
ZAMA M-7. The rebuild kit is ZAMA M1-M7
J.K. McClead Thank you!
DOOM Chainsaw
JK, can you get me an idle screw or give me guidance to replace it? Please...
If it’s the black cased saw, the carb is a ZAMA M1-M7. The IPL shows the “Carburetor Assembly” but does not list the parts individually. Your best bet is to eBay the carb or a beat up donor saw that has the parts that you need.
@@j.k.mcclead9207 Thanks so much. I believe the idle pin in my original EB 2 broke off a bit. I have to break out the magnifier to check for sure. If that is the case, I do not think that carb will be salvageable. So I took my other one apart but when I pulled out the engine from the case there was this black 2 inch pin type piece that fell out and not sure where it went. Any insight? TYIA
Any help on Fr. 2
I’m not understanding your question, how can I help?
@@j.k.mcclead9207
Just found an FR 2.0 McCullough with problems with fuel bulb. Wonder if you had any information on that model
@@samuelmaddoxsr.8923 If it has a primer bulb, then it is the same as a Mac 3200 series (3214, 3216). The Mac 110, 120, 130, 140, 160s, and the Eager Beaver 2.0 are self priming and do not have a primer bulb. The bulbs themselves are plentiful on eBay. just make sure they are the snap-in kind.
Alguien que me pueda ayudar con el manual???
There are McCulloch user groups on Facebook that have the manual in their “files” section, you can simply download from there.
What a *'d up design ?
McCulloch perfected getting 10lbs of malarkey into a 5 lb container.
@J.K. McClead
Well
At least this EAGAR BEAVER crap is .
I do like the newer McCullough designs like the 3214 and those from newr years .