Great job lawn. I followed your video, referred back to it numerous times to make sure I had gaskets aligned, and it came out fine. I didn't use the spring and arm from the rebuild kit because the original seemed to lay in place better, but I did use new needle. Runs great after sitting unused for about ten years. Thanks. Love these mccullochs.
I got a hand me down 2014 , model, it's was used to death but still alive , in 2021 , it needs a new bar chain , studs , drive gear , and maybe a new piston and carb , it had a fule system rebuild last year , tubes and bulb filter. Funny thing it still going strong 😂 But my husky 550 xp mark ii is jealous..
I am doing a 2.0 for a friend and have been through the carb several times (Walbro MCD 15). I tested the seal of the ring by dropping a little runny grease in the plug hole. That got me some fire (not much) just enough to want to check the piston, ring and cylinder further. I got the bolts out of the bottom crank cover but don't know what to do about removing that. Any hints?
The 2.0 ci means 2.0 cubic inch, which is the same as 32 cc (cubic centimeters). By the way, I have this same saw. It's a pain in the ass to start when hot. I rebuilt the carb as you did, now it's difficult to start cold or hot. Fed up with it. Going to get a STIHL.
I have a similar Mac, put a hose washer in the cap. no more leaks. this my favorite saw for around the the house. too bad replacement parts are almost non-existent. starts so easily, cleaned carb on mine and had same issues. it is twitchy!
Initially you set the thottle advance which was opening the butterfly and overriding the choke, when you went back to it two days later you can see you didn't lock the throttle. That was your problem initially. You shouldn't set the throttle advance when starting the chainsaw. It conflicts with the choke.
I’ve been having the same issue as you. I have the same 3200 chainsaw but it’s rebranded as craftsman. I’ve rebuilt the carb, replaced the fuel lines, and use trufuel premixed 40:1 fuel, it worked fine the one time I’ve start it. I cut a few logs and then suddenly It started to die out slowly and then once it did die I couldn’t get it to start again at all!! So a couple days later I decided to start it again and I just couldn’t get it going I’m so stumped of what the problem could be. Should I clean the carb even though I rebuilt it and replaced all the gaskets? Or should I use a richer mixture of oil and gas of like 20:1? Or should I just replace the carb all together. I really don’t know what to do at this point. I can appreciate all the help I can get! Thank you
Good job on the tutorial. I was able to get around my 2014 easily after viewing your video. One quick question...when you install the fuel bulb, did you notice that bulb assy is labeled with 'in' on one nipple and is shorter than the other which is a good hint as to which line goes to the tank and the other to the carb. I wonder which one goes to the carb the long side or the short side.
Yes.. that's for sure.. and then what is the proper adjustment procedure? Looks like the screws were never touched.. except when the saw didn't start.. This is a seriously important part of this process.
Thanks for the video. It says 2.0 cubic inches on the case, so that is roughly 32.8 cc. The model number is 2014, so i'm guessing that the 20 is for 2.0 cubic inches. I have a 4600 and a 4618 and they are both 46 cc, so they must have changed their nomenclature between cubic inches and cc's.
that's a 32 cc and what direction did you turn the idle when it finally started. Mine still is not starting adjusting and readjusting. please help your video did not explain what directing you turned the Idle.
I must have an older Eager Beaver. It has absolutely no model number on it and you take a plastic cover off the side to get at the air cleaner which is a round, domed shape wire mesh screen. But how the carburetor comes out, I'm not sure. It must come out from the side as well. There's only one screw in there beside the air hole, which I haven't touched yet.
Thanks. I did that and then found that I couldn't get a carburetor rebuild kit for because the damned thing is obsolete. So now it sits as a pile of junk and I bought an electric chain saw.
I would take the old carburetor apart and clean it with carb cleaner as well as compressed air. See if it comes to life. That's what I'm doing right now.
You could make new gaskets out of gasket material but they didn't use any gasket cement so they'll come off without getting damaged if you're careful and you can reuse them. It's not like a head gasket that crushes one time only.
If the carb has limiter caps first thing is remove them. CZcams has videos to help with that. This series of macs were made between 93-97,the earlier ones didn’t have them. Anyway, once the caps are out of the way, turn both screws in until they just seat- don’t wrench them down. Then back them out 1.5 turns each. That’s the starting point. The throttle screw should be at 3 turns. Probably me it up and try to start. Increase the low idle in 1/8 increments until it starts. Once it starts advance low until it begins to sputter, remember where that point on the screw is and back it off the other way just until it began us to sputter, and the midway point between those positions should be your optimal low setting. Next move to the high setting by giving it full throttle. If it dies out increase the setting on h screw to a point where it just starts to sputter then back it off 1/4 turn and you’re good. Use a tach to fine tune
I'm trying to replace the fuel lines and filters on my mac 3200cc and it looks like i need to remove the gas tank. Do you know the best way to remove it? The model looks almost identical to yours
I've been trying to find parts for my eager beaver. My problem us that the tag with the model number is gone. I watched your video very closely and the carb parts and the body is the exact same. Could you give me your model number?
hello there........i have an issue with my carburetor for my mcculloch { silver eagle } se2000, and i notice that the carburetor that you have on yours, is almost the same as mine, but i wanted to get a new one, but i can't find it on Amazon neither on Ebay, can you tell me what the model number is for your carburetor, so maybe i can change what i have there, to the one you have on yours ...............help
I was guessing that as well, but saw have a 20cc engine. I would guess it has 32cc engine but what do I know. I think 20cc is not a lot power for a chainsaw
tune up your carborator using the H and L adjustment because it's an idling issue adjust the low this guy turned it all the way in then back it out a turn and a half if I heard correctly. Think of it like tuning an instrument listen to it idle while turning the low adjustment until it sounds nice and gives you a good response on the trigger. steve's small engine saloon has a great vid on it with a demonstration, not this saw but the same exact thing.
I'm watching the carb repair of the 2.0 part 2 of 2. Does part 1 of 2 show how to get to the carb i.e. remove the outside case. I'm having a hard time with that not having an exploded drawing.
At 1.5 turns out, your MAC sounds a little lean, to me. try 2 turns out of L jet. Start at 1.5 turns out on the H jet and tune from there. I try to limit my WFO RPM to under 13,000 if possible.
The L screw is the low speed screw on the carburetor. It's right next to the H screw or high speed screw. The screws are held in place by springs. Some saws have an L screw only.
So, I'm watching this video and wondering what the fighting in the comment section could be about. As always, it's about the trivial things, like how often the guy says, "so". This world sure is fucked. Now some asshole will send me a threatening message...
Great job lawn. I followed your video, referred back to it numerous times to make sure I had gaskets aligned, and it came out fine. I didn't use the spring and arm from the rebuild kit because the original seemed to lay in place better, but I did use new needle. Runs great after sitting unused for about ten years. Thanks. Love these mccullochs.
Good job
Always a good idea to reset upper and lower needles 👍
These videos were perfect man thanks. Just wish there was a video on fuel lines for the EB 2014!
original oil cap has cork gasket. replace it with a hose washer, no more leaks. mine did same thing.
nice job
Jim
I got a hand me down 2014 , model, it's was used to death but still alive , in 2021 , it needs a new bar chain , studs , drive gear , and maybe a new piston and carb , it had a fule system rebuild last year , tubes and bulb filter.
Funny thing it still going strong 😂
But my husky 550 xp mark ii is jealous..
I am doing a 2.0 for a friend and have been through the carb several times (Walbro MCD 15). I tested the seal of the ring by dropping a little runny grease in the plug hole. That got me some fire (not much) just enough to want to check the piston, ring and cylinder further. I got the bolts out of the bottom crank cover but don't know what to do about removing that. Any hints?
Thanks you solved my assembly mistake.
The 2.0 ci means 2.0 cubic inch, which is the same as 32 cc (cubic centimeters). By the way, I have this same saw. It's a pain in the ass to start when hot. I rebuilt the carb as you did, now it's difficult to start cold or hot. Fed up with it. Going to get a STIHL.
Son of a
I have a similar Mac, put a hose washer in the cap. no more leaks. this my favorite saw for around the the house. too bad replacement parts are almost non-existent. starts so easily, cleaned carb on mine and had same issues. it is twitchy!
It's got the size cc and bar size right on the front recoil starter cover. 3014 ,3516 and so on.
Initially you set the thottle advance which was opening the butterfly and overriding the choke, when you went back to it two days later you can see you didn't lock the throttle. That was your problem initially. You shouldn't set the throttle advance when starting the chainsaw. It conflicts with the choke.
Runs good
I’ve been having the same issue as you. I have the same 3200 chainsaw but it’s rebranded as craftsman. I’ve rebuilt the carb, replaced the fuel lines, and use trufuel premixed 40:1 fuel, it worked fine the one time I’ve start it. I cut a few logs and then suddenly It started to die out slowly and then once it did die I couldn’t get it to start again at all!! So a couple days later I decided to start it again and I just couldn’t get it going I’m so stumped of what the problem could be. Should I clean the carb even though I rebuilt it and replaced all the gaskets? Or should I use a richer mixture of oil and gas of like 20:1? Or should I just replace the carb all together. I really don’t know what to do at this point. I can appreciate all the help I can get! Thank you
On the carburetor where does the fuel return line connects, the top or bottom?
Good job on the tutorial. I was able to get around my 2014 easily after viewing your video. One quick question...when you install the fuel bulb, did you notice that bulb assy is labeled with 'in' on one nipple and is shorter than the other which is a good hint as to which line goes to the tank and the other to the carb. I wonder which one goes to the carb the long side or the short side.
how about the adj screws? on any carb i have ever done the adj screws should be removed before you clean it so that ALL of the ports can get cleaned
Yes.. that's for sure.. and then what is the proper adjustment procedure? Looks like the screws were never touched.. except when the saw didn't start.. This is a seriously important part of this process.
nope saw is 32 as 2ci is about 32 cc and a trick for starting a dry saw is to put some gas in the intake like half a water bottle lid.
Thanks for the video. It says 2.0 cubic inches on the case, so that is roughly 32.8 cc. The model number is 2014, so i'm guessing that the 20 is for 2.0 cubic inches. I have a 4600 and a 4618 and they are both 46 cc, so they must have changed their nomenclature between cubic inches and cc's.
I think the 14 means 14" bar. Perhaps your 4600 was sold with a variety of different bars.
Nice video,i have the kit and need to do this job on mac 338.I will let you know how i get on.
that's a 32 cc and what direction did you turn the idle when it finally started. Mine still is not starting adjusting and readjusting.
please help your video did not explain what directing you turned the Idle.
i tried the same thing on my old craftsman saw ,,, and my old homelite and both of them blew gas on my arm straight out of the carb
I must have an older Eager Beaver. It has absolutely no model number on it and you take a plastic cover off the side to get at the air cleaner which is a round, domed shape wire mesh screen. But how the carburetor comes out, I'm not sure. It must come out from the side as well. There's only one screw in there beside the air hole, which I haven't touched yet.
I have two of the same model. You have to take the engine out of the case to get the carburetor off.
Thanks. I did that and then found that I couldn't get a carburetor rebuild kit for because the damned thing is obsolete. So now it sits as a pile of junk and I bought an electric chain saw.
I would take the old carburetor apart and clean it with carb cleaner as well as compressed air. See if it comes to life. That's what I'm doing right now.
And what about new gaskets? Would you make those?
You could make new gaskets out of gasket material but they didn't use any gasket cement so they'll come off without getting damaged if you're careful and you can reuse them. It's not like a head gasket that crushes one time only.
What did you do in order to start so easily the engine?
My carb settings are way messed up on my 2016 which seems to be identical, how would I reset and tune them
If the carb has limiter caps first thing is remove them. CZcams has videos to help with that. This series of macs were made between 93-97,the earlier ones didn’t have them. Anyway, once the caps are out of the way, turn both screws in until they just seat- don’t wrench them down. Then back them out 1.5 turns each. That’s the starting point. The throttle screw should be at 3 turns. Probably me it up and try to start. Increase the low idle in 1/8 increments until it starts. Once it starts advance low until it begins to sputter, remember where that point on the screw is and back it off the other way just until it began us to sputter, and the midway point between those positions should be your optimal low setting. Next move to the high setting by giving it full throttle. If it dies out increase the setting on h screw to a point where it just starts to sputter then back it off 1/4 turn and you’re good. Use a tach to fine tune
Where did you find the carb rebuild kit?
I'm trying to replace the fuel lines and filters on my mac 3200cc and it looks like i need to remove the gas tank. Do you know the best way to remove it? The model looks almost identical to yours
To replace the fuel lines you in fact do NOT remove the tank czcams.com/video/j6u5vtWBIRY/video.html
Thancks for the video my i did everythin you show but my dont start is kiping throw gas thru the mafler
I've been trying to find parts for my eager beaver. My problem us that the tag with the model number is gone. I watched your video very closely and the carb parts and the body is the exact same. Could you give me your model number?
hello there........i have an issue with my carburetor for my mcculloch { silver eagle } se2000, and i notice that the carburetor that you have on yours, is almost the same as mine, but i wanted to get a new one, but i can't find it on Amazon neither on Ebay, can you tell me what the model number is for your carburetor, so maybe i can change what i have there, to the one you have on yours ...............help
I was guessing that as well, but saw have a 20cc engine. I would guess it has 32cc engine but what do I know. I think 20cc is not a lot power for a chainsaw
what makes the saw race then settledown and just go back &forth when it idles
tune up your carborator using the H and L adjustment because it's an idling issue adjust the low this guy turned it all the way in then back it out a turn and a half if I heard correctly. Think of it like tuning an instrument listen to it idle while turning the low adjustment until it sounds nice and gives you a good response on the trigger. steve's small engine saloon has a great vid on it with a demonstration, not this saw but the same exact thing.
I'm watching the carb repair of the 2.0 part 2 of 2. Does part 1 of 2 show how to get to the carb i.e. remove the outside case. I'm having a hard time with that not having an exploded drawing.
I have an old 1840c . I just rebuilt the carb and it starts but won't keep running and it spews a lot of gas out the muffler any suggestions
I just found this saw . I need the throttle working HELP
At 1.5 turns out, your MAC sounds a little lean, to me. try 2 turns out of L jet. Start at 1.5 turns out on the H jet and tune from there. I try to limit my WFO RPM to under 13,000 if possible.
John Clarke. I have a mac 46cc can I just bust the plastic of L an H adjustment screws?
What inch bar is on this saw and what size chain?
If it's a 2014, the bar is 14".
so ya go to all the trouble, and when ur done you still have a pos!
Don't you have a rainbow parade to go to? Or a Vaccination/Booster to get?
GOD DAMN DUDE! If you don't like hearing me saying "so" then stop watching my videos.
what L SCREW can you explain where that L Scew is located??
Yeah, what G Head said. Pretty please. I ordered the rebuild kit so twould be great to know about that screw that worked magic for you
The L screw is the low speed screw on the carburetor. It's right next to the H screw or high speed screw. The screws are held in place by springs. Some saws have an L screw only.
Anyone know the part number for a replacement carb?
The chain shouldn't engage in idle. I think one of the other adjustment screws is out of whack.
its just the idle
Hello,
what and the diameter of the fuel pipe (inside, outside)?
please
1/8" x 1/4"
inside is 2.52mm and the the wall of it is 1.23mm
Good but where is the bougie?
hey i used to have a saw lke that ,,, i left it on my tailgate and forgot aout it when i went to work it fel off somewhere
I got it. won't go. wish you took better care of it
Over choking it to begin with will make it difficult to start
I know, like whenever I do that I end up popping out the soaking wet plug, dry it out then starting...back when it used to start that is.
what's the part number to the kit
I can't hear how much did u turn the L please let me know, thanks
So, I'm watching this video and wondering what the fighting in the comment section could be about. As always, it's about the trivial things, like how often the guy says, "so".
This world sure is fucked.
Now some asshole will send me a threatening message...
I'm gon git you for saying that
joemac35
а масляный бак(горловина течет) и что тут сделать можно?
эпоксидкой заклеять не получилось ?
cuanto cuestan
32.7 cc's
I hate two stroke engines, is always hit or miss with them.
Don't tell me what to say I'm 28 years old I'll say whatever I want to say.