I just started my fathers old Eager beaver after 20 year of non use . Just need to change the blade. Thanks you answered all my questions in this video 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
You were right on about the Eager Beaver Coil grounding out. Installed the heat shrink new fuel line and it starts and runs as good or better than when I bought it in 1993. I would put this saw against a Stihl the same size any time! Great video.
I really enjoyed this video series. Great job! I am working on this same saw. First issue: flywheel was completely seized and wouldn't budge. Found a loose screw lodged between the flywheel and the case. I took the whole thing apart, cleaned carburetor and replaced the spark plug and fuel line. It will start and run for a few seconds if you put gas directly into the carburetor, then it dies and wont start again. Another issue: both the gas and oil caps are stripped out. They will snug up, but then break loose if you twist them just past snug. Both leak, even when tightened as much as allowed. I do not want to put a lot of money into this saw, but would like to get it running. I am just out of ideas.
Never put straight gas in these. Only 2cycle mix. Its probably not getting enough air when warm. Likely need to adjust your carb screws. The gasket that was inside the caps probably fell apart ages ago. I used gasket material to make another use the cap as a template. Alternately a better approach is to find a rubber o-ring that will fit in there snug.
Thanks, a really helpful video. I have just bought a Eager Beaver in reasonable condition and was looking for some instruction on how to assemble it as it came in the mail unassembled. I have subscribed to your channel. Cheers and hello from Queensland
Great videos. Successfully dismantled the chainsaw because although it had good spark, would not start, and leaking gas. Now no spark when out on the bench. Checked all wiring, and plug. What am I missing?
Yellow case or black? Check the grounding wire, on the black cased electronic models, the ground wire rubbing against the case and grounding out was a prevalent problem.
@@stanskowronski5413 The yellow case has breaker points located behind the flywheel. They may need to be cleaned. Remove the flywheel, open the plastic case containing the points, clean the points with sand paper, gap to .018, flywheel back on, test
J.K. My mistake. The 2.0 is a black case and there is no plastic case containing the points behind the fly wheel. Any suggestion for no spark. Thanks for your responses.
@@stanskowronski5413 Ok, then lets try the 3 bolts that hold the carb and coil. the top and the middle bolts have a fiber washer up against the head of the bolt, the bottom bolt has the grounding wire against the head of the bolt with the fiber washer beneath it to isolate the grounding wire. Is that how you have it?
@@stevemullaghy1625 Not sure if Mcculloch indexed the date into the serial number. I doubt it. On this saw for example the model is a 600123 and 12 is the revision number. The serial number is the revision 12 then 057408. 05 could mean the 5th month of 1980 but I really doubt it. These eager beavers are early 80s vintage mostly. There might be a chart somewhere that cross indexes the serial numbers into a mfg date but haven't seen one.
Don’t know if you’ll ever see this post but here goes…😊 Brother in law came home with an eager beaver, looks exactly like yours but it has no number anywhere that says 2.0, or any other number (sticker is not damaged) Anyhow, I got it to run and it runs great…2 problems, the oiler is probably clogged as it does not oil (will tackle that soon) Main problem is that after I adjust the chain and run the saw, the chain tightens up and kills the motor 😳😳😳 Is this also due to the oiler ????
Lack of oil will make the bar and chain hot, expanding both and tightening the chain. Eager Beavers 2.0 for the most part are manual oiler only. ( gotta pump the leaver ) I recommend you repair the oiler before any further use. P.S. attatching an auto oiler to the saw will not work as it does not have the necessary pulse hole in the engine to activate the plunger.
@@j.k.mcclead9207 I really appreciate you getting back with me…it was going to sit on the bench until you did 😉 Now I know where to start, I was afraid it was going to start out as a money pit 😳 Thanks again, love your attention to detail
@@TruthIsNotTemporary The manual oiler is a simple mechanism consisting of a rod, spring, and a boot shaped plunger with a screen. Check the hose for mushiness as they are prone to collapse. If so, a small spring placed in the oil hose will stop it from closing.
S49 is the standard chain for a mac 2.0 with a 14 inch bar. Count the number of drive links of the chain you have, if its more than 49 and is too long for the bar, then you will need to either cut a drive link (or two) off your existing chain or your local hardware store should have one.
Followed your tips on disassembly, got a carb kit and about to change components over, thankyou for the advice. Question: what's the rpm for the high jet? I've got a new tachometer and want to put it to good use. TIA
I have three similar saws to this. The one that runs has a problem of quitting after it gets hot then not starting again. I haven't checked but based on what I have seen in videos, probably the coil being flaky. I can't seem to get any spark on the other two and the points look pretty good, I have both completely disassembled. If indeed it is the coils, is there someplace these can be purchased or is there a replacement option. Thanks for your help and these very helpful videos.
No spark when hot is generally the coil, the condenser might also be suspect. Coils are plentiful on eBay, The Yellow cased Mini 25, 30, 35, 110, 120, 130, 140, all share the same coil. Black cased are electronic ignition.
@@j.k.mcclead9207 appreciate the advice, I found one on ebay but it looks slightly different www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-McCulloch-Chainsaw-Electronic-Ignition-Coil-302138-Eager-Beaver-Pro-Mac-22/362885722566?epid=1200545539&hash=item547dacb1c6:g:XZYAAOSwl2BeIpCK, thoughts on that one? the m/n on the two I have apart are 600123E and 600016C and the coils have no p/n on them, they just say type 5. I found a used one previously that has now been sold but I wasn't confident that it would work.
I just bought a carb kit and put it back to gether and i cant get it to fire i got spark and i ha e a ton of gas coming threw the carb low hours on saw im stumped
hi, great vids , i have one and it seems to be getting to much fuel. will start briefly, then stop , pull the plug its all wet , dry it ,return it then its starts putters and and dies, any ideas?
Start with the easy, weak spark. put a fresh plug in and see if it clears up. The more difficult, the needle arm in the carb is set too high allowing too much fuel to into the carb.
There is no primer bulb. To manually prime, take off the air breather cover and filter, then squirt about a half a teaspoons worth of 2 cycle mix into the carb. If the diaphragm is not petrified, it should start pulling fuel from the tank. You may need to repeat the process 3-5 times. Any more than that, a good cleaning and carb rebuild may be in order.
Just above the nut which holds/tightens chain bar to saw body there is an “adjuster screw”. Part number 111047 Screw-Pan Hd 8-32x.625. What exactly does this screw do, what is it’s function? Thanks very much.
It is exactly that, an adjustment screw. That screw is threaded through a small nut with a tab sticking out of it. That tab goes into the hole in the bar and is used to tighten / loosen the chain by moving the bar in and out.
@@j.k.mcclead9207 Thanks for your reply. I can detect the 90658 Screw Adjusting. Located at the front of the saw body. As you inform its function to tighten/loosen chain. But I’m referring to the screw located above the nut which holds/tightens housing/blade to saw body. This screw is 111047 Screw-Pan Hd 8-32x.625. Within your final assembly video you obviously tighten the lower 110676 Nut-Hex 1/4-28. But did not refer to this screw located within the same area. I’m unsure what function it is used for? Thanks very much.
OH, I see what you are referring to. That screw holds part of the chain break, (the metal band specifically), that goes around the clutch drum. When the anti kick-back handle is pushed forward, the top of the band moves with it. That screw anchors the bottom side of the band in place, tightening around the drum and stopping it from spinning.
@@j.k.mcclead9207 Now I see and understand. Thanks. When you completed a "trial run" prior to final assembly the fuel tank was located away from the saw. Understandable in case of potential problems when "starting-up" the saw. What are the I/D and O/D dimensions of the fuel line which you use? I've read somewhere 3/32 I/D and 3/16 O/D. Are these correct? I believe I do need to replace my current dodgy fuel line. Thanks.
Remove the engine from the case, the carb sits below the coil and is held in by three bolts with insulator tubes and fiber washers. ( Note the order of the fiber washers the one with the coil grounding wire is different ) only two of the three bolts hold the coil. Remove coil, then carb. For the yellow cased points ignition models it’s a Walbro MDC, for the black cased electronic ignition it’s a ZAMA M1-M7 rebuild kit. There are a number of videos dealing with the actual rebuild process the both are virtually the same. Making a detailed carb rebuild video is on my to do list.
I just started my fathers old Eager beaver after 20 year of non use . Just need to change the blade. Thanks you answered all my questions in this video 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Your welcome, glad I could help
You were right on about the Eager Beaver Coil grounding out. Installed the heat shrink new fuel line and it starts and runs as good or better than when I bought it in 1993. I would put this saw against a Stihl the same size any time! Great video.
Thank You. I put the engine in and out 3 times before I spotted the bare spot on the coil wire. Now I heat shrink every one I do.
Very good sir,
Nice comparison, things pointed out, things to look for, and how to successfully complete the project...
We thank you
I really enjoyed this video series. Great job!
I am working on this same saw. First issue: flywheel was completely seized and wouldn't budge. Found a loose screw lodged between the flywheel and the case. I took the whole thing apart, cleaned carburetor and replaced the spark plug and fuel line. It will start and run for a few seconds if you put gas directly into the carburetor, then it dies and wont start again.
Another issue: both the gas and oil caps are stripped out. They will snug up, but then break loose if you twist them just past snug. Both leak, even when tightened as much as allowed.
I do not want to put a lot of money into this saw, but would like to get it running. I am just out of ideas.
Your fuel line is most likely pinched, when you put it back together you have to watch out not to pinch the line between the coil and the case.
Never put straight gas in these. Only 2cycle mix. Its probably not getting enough air when warm. Likely need to adjust your carb screws. The gasket that was inside the caps probably fell apart ages ago. I used gasket material to make another use the cap as a template. Alternately a better approach is to find a rubber o-ring that will fit in there snug.
Great movie! Engine and carburetor are in perfect settings.
Thanks, a really helpful video. I have just bought a Eager Beaver in reasonable condition and was looking for some instruction on how to assemble it as it came in the mail unassembled. I have subscribed to your channel. Cheers and hello from Queensland
Thank you so much you video help me a lot
Finally a helpful fucking video
Excellent video! Thank you
Great videos. Successfully dismantled the chainsaw because although it had good spark, would not start, and leaking gas. Now no spark when out on the bench. Checked all wiring, and plug. What am I missing?
Yellow case or black? Check the grounding wire, on the black cased electronic models, the ground wire rubbing against the case and grounding out was a prevalent problem.
J.K. McClead Removed the engine from the yellow case, and disconnected the ground wire; no spark!
@@stanskowronski5413 The yellow case has breaker points located behind the flywheel. They may need to be cleaned. Remove the flywheel, open the plastic case containing the points, clean the points with sand paper, gap to .018, flywheel back on, test
J.K. My mistake. The 2.0 is a black case and there is no plastic case containing the points behind the fly wheel. Any suggestion for no spark. Thanks for your responses.
@@stanskowronski5413 Ok, then lets try the 3 bolts that hold the carb and coil. the top and the middle bolts have a fiber washer up against the head of the bolt, the bottom bolt has the grounding wire against the head of the bolt with the fiber washer beneath it to isolate the grounding wire. Is that how you have it?
Another great tutorial with another question regarding this saw...what is the small screw for that's located just above the bolt to secure the bar?
...and while I'm at it how can I tell the year of manufacture from the serial number (12-146678)? I'm guessing 2012...?
That screw holds the silver looking band which is the clutch / chain brake. J K
@@jameskrivitsky9715 James! Thanks for the reply. That helps!
@@stevemullaghy1625 Not sure if Mcculloch indexed the date into the serial number. I doubt it. On this saw for example the model is a 600123 and 12 is the revision number. The serial number is the revision 12 then 057408. 05 could mean the 5th month of 1980 but I really doubt it. These eager beavers are early 80s vintage mostly. There might be a chart somewhere that cross indexes the serial numbers into a mfg date but haven't seen one.
@@barackobama5304 Thanks, Mr. Obama!
Don’t know if you’ll ever see this post but here goes…😊
Brother in law came home with an eager beaver, looks exactly like yours but it has no number anywhere that says 2.0, or any other number (sticker is not damaged)
Anyhow, I got it to run and it runs great…2 problems, the oiler is probably clogged as it does not oil (will tackle that soon)
Main problem is that after I adjust the chain and run the saw, the chain tightens up and kills the motor 😳😳😳
Is this also due to the oiler ????
Lack of oil will make the bar and chain hot, expanding both and tightening the chain. Eager Beavers 2.0 for the most part are manual oiler only. ( gotta pump the leaver ) I recommend you repair the oiler before any further use. P.S. attatching an auto oiler to the saw will not work as it does not have the necessary pulse hole in the engine to activate the plunger.
@@j.k.mcclead9207
I really appreciate you getting back with me…it was going to sit on the bench until you did 😉
Now I know where to start, I was afraid it was going to start out as a money pit 😳
Thanks again, love your attention to detail
@@TruthIsNotTemporary The manual oiler is a simple mechanism consisting of a rod, spring, and a boot shaped plunger with a screen. Check the hose for mushiness as they are prone to collapse. If so, a small spring placed in the oil hose will stop it from closing.
@@j.k.mcclead9207
Will do 👌
Great video. Anyone know the RPMS at full throttle should be? Thank you!!
With bar and chain on, 10,000rpm max on the bench. I would wait until it’s in the wood to find the sweet spot.
@@j.k.mcclead9207 Wow, thank you for a quick reply!! Thank you!
I put the wrong date when bought the Eager Beaver it was 1983 after hurricane Alesha in Galveston Texas
Where might I be able to get a replacement chain for this saw? I got a 14in and it seemed to be larger than the one already on it.
S49 is the standard chain for a mac 2.0 with a 14 inch bar. Count the number of drive links of the chain you have, if its more than 49 and is too long for the bar, then you will need to either cut a drive link (or two) off your existing chain or your local hardware store should have one.
Followed your tips on disassembly, got a carb kit and about to change components over, thankyou for the advice. Question: what's the rpm for the high jet? I've got a new tachometer and want to put it to good use. TIA
With the bar and chain on, McCulloch recommends 10.000 RPM Max. Idle speed around 2,900RPM or till the chain starts to move.
@@j.k.mcclead9207 legend, thankyou
I have three similar saws to this. The one that runs has a problem of quitting after it gets hot then not starting again. I haven't checked but based on what I have seen in videos, probably the coil being flaky. I can't seem to get any spark on the other two and the points look pretty good, I have both completely disassembled. If indeed it is the coils, is there someplace these can be purchased or is there a replacement option. Thanks for your help and these very helpful videos.
No spark when hot is generally the coil, the condenser might also be suspect. Coils are plentiful on eBay, The Yellow cased Mini 25, 30, 35, 110, 120, 130, 140, all share the same coil. Black cased are electronic ignition.
@@j.k.mcclead9207 appreciate the advice, I found one on ebay but it looks slightly different www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-McCulloch-Chainsaw-Electronic-Ignition-Coil-302138-Eager-Beaver-Pro-Mac-22/362885722566?epid=1200545539&hash=item547dacb1c6:g:XZYAAOSwl2BeIpCK, thoughts on that one? the m/n on the two I have apart are 600123E and 600016C and the coils have no p/n on them, they just say type 5. I found a used one previously that has now been sold but I wasn't confident that it would work.
I just bought a carb kit and put it back to gether and i cant get it to fire i got spark and i ha e a ton of gas coming threw the carb low hours on saw im stumped
My problem too!
@@philbo65 Set your carb screws turned out 1 1/4 - 1 1/2 initially.
hi, great vids , i have one and it seems to be getting to much fuel. will start briefly, then stop , pull the plug its all wet , dry it ,return it then its starts putters and and dies, any ideas?
Start with the easy, weak spark. put a fresh plug in and see if it clears up. The more difficult, the needle arm in the carb is set too high allowing too much fuel to into the carb.
@@j.k.mcclead9207 thanks will give a shot
I just picked one of these. How do you prime the fuel. Cannot a primer bulb.
There is no primer bulb. To manually prime, take off the air breather cover and filter, then squirt about a half a teaspoons worth of 2 cycle mix into the carb. If the diaphragm is not petrified, it should start pulling fuel from the tank. You may need to repeat the process 3-5 times. Any more than that, a good cleaning and carb rebuild may be in order.
Just above the nut which holds/tightens chain bar to saw body there is an “adjuster screw”. Part number 111047 Screw-Pan Hd 8-32x.625. What exactly does this screw do, what is it’s function? Thanks very much.
It is exactly that, an adjustment screw. That screw is threaded through a small nut with a tab sticking out of it. That tab goes into the hole in the bar and is used to tighten / loosen the chain by moving the bar in and out.
@@j.k.mcclead9207 Thanks for your reply. I can detect the 90658 Screw Adjusting. Located at the front of the saw body. As you inform its function to tighten/loosen chain. But I’m referring to the screw located above the nut which holds/tightens housing/blade to saw body. This screw is 111047 Screw-Pan Hd 8-32x.625. Within your final assembly video you obviously tighten the lower 110676 Nut-Hex 1/4-28. But did not refer to this screw located within the same area. I’m unsure what function it is used for? Thanks very much.
OH, I see what you are referring to. That screw holds part of the chain break, (the metal band specifically), that goes around the clutch drum. When the anti kick-back handle is pushed forward, the top of the band moves with it. That screw anchors the bottom side of the band in place, tightening around the drum and stopping it from spinning.
@@j.k.mcclead9207 Now I see and understand. Thanks. When you completed a "trial run" prior to final assembly the fuel tank was located away from the saw. Understandable in case of potential problems when "starting-up" the saw. What are the I/D and O/D dimensions of the fuel line which you use? I've read somewhere 3/32 I/D and 3/16 O/D. Are these correct? I believe I do need to replace my current dodgy fuel line. Thanks.
How do you rebuild the carburetor on this saw?
Remove the engine from the case, the carb sits below the coil and is held in by three bolts with insulator tubes and fiber washers. ( Note the order of the fiber washers the one with the coil grounding wire is different ) only two of the three bolts hold the coil. Remove coil, then carb. For the yellow cased points ignition models it’s a Walbro MDC, for the black cased electronic ignition it’s a ZAMA M1-M7 rebuild kit. There are a number of videos dealing with the actual rebuild process the both are virtually the same. Making a detailed carb rebuild video is on my to do list.
Not really I've disintegrated that's all and put it back together it's a pain