These were great videos. Thanks for providing a near 100% disassembly video. This took a long time and it's certainly appreciated by hundreds if not thousands that didn't comment or like. Thanks!!
Thank you for sharing this! I'm tearing down a 1970's horse at the moment. Great piece of machinery, and worthy of salvaging. Great made in the USA equipment
I most enjoyed watching the whole step by step and the whole process and especially your comments and thoughts on this video, you don’t know how much this helps if you don’t have a manual, great job brother. Best wishes in the future farming, I’m 63years of age and still trying to put a garden every year and right now my Trojan, Troy horse is still going , I’m a dyi guy myself, always have been but knowledge is everything to a working man. Thanks again, will continue watching your videos too,take care your feller.🙏👍
Great job and very helpful. I'm replacing the rear tines and the rear seals in my 1977 Horse. This video was extremely helpful. Thank you very much. Good job.
I had a rear tine shaft that was pitted really bad where the seals were on the shaft , leaked gear oil really bad. Instead of replacing the shaft I ground the shaft where the pitting was and used JB Weld and filled in the grooves. Used emery cloth and sanded the JB Weld down. Put new seals in and not leaking after 6 years. Just giving some helpful hints.
Great video, good camera angels, no music,straight talk clear talk, lets the viewer know what,s next and what ya think it may be,I like to see it all, keep doing what ya doing, and thank you for posting this video, I just picked up one of these Troy bilt Horse tillers, looks just like this one
I am glad this video is helpful to you. I would say that there is no energy on my part since I was doing the job any how but there is the extra effort of setting up the camera, figuring what would be helpful or of interest to watch and then there is the compiling and uploading. I did not know what all was involved by the people that I like to watch until I tried it my self. I now have a better understanding and thankfulness to their efforts. I enjoy doing it and am glad someone finds it helpful.
I just bought one for $75 as I have to replace the engine. I like everything in detail so I can see it start to finish. I am SO HAPPY you made one in a LONG version. One can always skip a part but it is impossible to add what is not there. I used a CZcams downloader to save it to my PC for later. www.youtubedownloader.com it's free. I will put an 8HP Harbor Freight motor for $240 on it. Would you ever think after 7 years people are still watching your video.
just watching your troybilt trans teardown and I like to see the whole thing not just snipbits so I know what im getting into, good job your doing explaining
Roger Jackson your videos are great. I am not very mechanically inclined, so your videos really help. My tiller looks like yours. It will not stay in forward gear. Any suggestions?
Roger Jackson, your videos are very informative and they are great. I am not very mechanically inclined, so your videos really help. My tiller looks like yours. It will not stay in forward. Any suggestions?
Thanks for the walk thru... I was wondering if you were an aircraft mechanic based on the amount of finesse you showed, but I guess your CZcams handle says it all... lol... thanks again
Thanks for the vids, I started off with just replacing the engine then noticed slop in the trans shaft so I removed the front bearing and the slop was still there and pulled the shaft out and the end bearing fell apart so I had to get another bearing so now I'm waiting for them in the mail
Mine is doing the exact same thing.I had ordered a new front seal because it was leaking gear oil and I noticed alot of slop.I can push or pull the shaft about a 1/2 inch..I may need to do the same thing as you I will be tearing into it tomorrow..Do you mind telling me the parts you ordered? Thanks
I'm watching this for the first time in 2023. You ask at the time what you could do while editing to improve the content. My thoughts on that are for repetitive operations do a fast forward after the first few frames explain what the procedure is. I am doing a complete teardown for a friend's machine and this may save me from getting in over my head. Thank you
My Mechanic Dad put some STP in it and 90/140 gear oil back in 1970 and I drain and refilled it with Lukas hub oil and 90/140 gear oil, it looked like new inside box
I don't know if you're still 9:16 using your older Troybilt rototiller or not but if you're still helping people, I have some questions for you. We have an older machine which looks about the same year as yours. Even has the same tires. No one has been able to tell me what year ours is. My folks bought this one and I'm thinking it could be around a 1972 or 73. So in watching your videos I decided to teart into this thing. I wouldn't have done it if I didn't have these videos to guide me. Well I think I've hit a snag. When I took the tine assembly apart, there were some rollers from a roller bearing in there. After pulling the cap off the back end I found where they'd come from. The rear bearing for the drive shaft was completely disintegrated. I was looking at the very end of the driveshaft and it looks to me like there is some of it missing. Like it broke off. The brass worm gear was pretty chewed up and there were thousands of brass shavings mixed in with the sludge in the bottom of the tine shaft housing. I can't seem to find a driveshaft for this old of a machine. Do you have any contacts who might have one? I'd really appreciate it.
I got my parts from super x power. There are no spaces between the words but youtube won't let me type links in the comments so I put spaces in there. They have been very good to me. As you have seen or might see I made my own shaft and reverse disc.
I have a question about the connection between the drive shaft outer tube and the rear tine shaft assembly. Are they threaded together or spot welded. Mine is separated and I don't see how they are connected and I have a 1" gap between the tube and spline assembly. The part I am referring to can be seen at 8:40, it looks like I see threads as well as two spot welds?
Hi Doc... I have a 70s troybilt (I think), when I had the belt off to put a new belt on, I noticed the lower has 1/2 inch (or more) play from front to back.. and it's been leaking, off and on.. is that a bearing and seal, or could it be even more serious problems?
I would rather see the hands on long versions. Step by step, I'm looking at 3-4 different tillers trying to decide if they are worth the cost of parts to repair them. One has destroyed the tiller worm gear and shaft due to water and dirt intrusion. Over $400 in parts alone unfortunately it's the newest of all of them I am looking at. I'm wondering if there is a seal between the tiller gears and the transmission gears to keep the dirt and water from getting to the transmission? Thanks for sharing.
Where would I find a manual like you have? Thanks I'm about to check my rear gear and the seal is shot... It stopped moving forward and I noticed oil coming out from the seal..Hoping it was just low on oil and that the gear is ok.
Before you took the top off, what is the spring with the bolt in it? Is it some kind of a blow off valve? I had gear oil come out of it and I don’t know if I am in trouble or not. Just bought the thing and my wife was already mad about it as it is.
That assembly limits the reverse engagement. The spring is there so it will automatically disengage the reverse friction drive if you let go of it. It has an adjustment bolt on the top.
HI, I have a 6HP Econo-Horse Troybilt tiller. I need quite a few parts for it. Wouldn't mind used if they are good and not bad priced. I need the worm gear for the drive line in the transmisson The big one. I need the Main Drive Shaft Assembly for the transmission. Need some bearings, seals too. Main gasket. You know where I can get these. Been on Ebay with no luck. Called the main Company which is MTD now for parts. I can get some of them but not the Main Drive Shaft Assembly. Any help appreciated. Thanks
You asked. If you have four screws, we don't need to see you unscrew 4 screws. Just start and the finish. The in between isn't neceassary or interesting. thanks
These were great videos. Thanks for providing a near 100% disassembly video. This took a long time and it's certainly appreciated by hundreds if not thousands that didn't comment or like. Thanks!!
Thank you for sharing this! I'm tearing down a 1970's horse at the moment. Great piece of machinery, and worthy of salvaging. Great made in the USA equipment
I most enjoyed watching the whole step by step and the whole process and especially your comments and thoughts on this video, you don’t know how much this helps if you don’t have a manual, great job brother. Best wishes in the future farming, I’m 63years of age and still trying to put a garden every year and right now my Trojan, Troy horse is still going , I’m a dyi guy myself, always have been but knowledge is everything to a working man. Thanks again, will continue watching your videos too,take care your feller.🙏👍
Great job and very helpful. I'm replacing the rear tines and the rear seals in my 1977 Horse. This video was extremely helpful. Thank you very much. Good job.
I had a rear tine shaft that was pitted really bad where the seals were on the shaft , leaked gear oil really bad.
Instead of replacing the shaft I ground the shaft where the pitting was and used JB Weld and filled in the grooves. Used emery cloth and sanded the JB Weld down. Put new seals in and not leaking after 6 years. Just giving some helpful hints.
Great video, good camera angels, no music,straight talk clear talk, lets the viewer know what,s next and what ya think it may be,I like to see it all, keep doing what ya doing, and thank you for posting this video, I just picked up one of these Troy bilt Horse tillers, looks just like this one
Thank you sir for an amazingly helpful video! Saved me hours of knuckle busting.
Just want to say thanks for posting the detailed video. I'm working on a 1969 model - this was very helpful!
I like the results type video.
Thank you..I just bought a horse and Installed a new motor now it's time to do all the seals. Thank you sir.
I am glad this video is helpful to you. I would say that there is no energy on my part since I was doing the job any how but there is the extra effort of setting up the camera, figuring what would be helpful or of interest to watch and then there is the compiling and uploading. I did not know what all was involved by the people that I like to watch until I tried it my self. I now have a better understanding and thankfulness to their efforts. I enjoy doing it and am glad someone finds it helpful.
I just bought one for $75 as I have to replace the engine. I like everything in detail so I can see it start to finish. I am SO HAPPY you made one in a LONG version. One can always skip a part but it is impossible to add what is not there. I used a CZcams downloader to save it to my PC for later. www.youtubedownloader.com it's free. I will put an 8HP Harbor Freight motor for $240 on it. Would you ever think after 7 years people are still watching your video.
Great job! Thanks very much for the steady camera work.Some videos are so shaky that I just can't watch them.You need a table or bench to work off of.
Awesome videos!. I just purchased a '78 model that needs this kinda of TLC. A great help. Thank you for putting this together!
just watching your troybilt trans teardown and I like to see the whole thing not just snipbits so I know what im getting into, good job your doing explaining
Great video!
Perfect the way it is, you give us alot of hints!
Thank you so much for the detailed video, My husband said you are very hands on and he loves it. Thank you ,
I like the detailed video I'm sure it'll help some and others can skip past what they don't need. Great job.
This was a very helpful video. I needed to see something that your video revealed. Excellent work Doc!
Roger Jackson your videos are great. I am not very mechanically inclined, so your videos really help. My tiller looks like yours. It will not stay in forward gear. Any suggestions?
Roger Jackson, your videos are very informative and they are great. I am not very mechanically inclined, so your videos really help. My tiller looks like yours. It will not stay in forward. Any suggestions?
Very Helpful Video. Much appreciated! Perfect the way it is.
This was very beneficial. Thank you.
Thanks for the walk thru... I was wondering if you were an aircraft mechanic based on the amount of finesse you showed, but I guess your CZcams handle says it all... lol... thanks again
I prefer the long version videos with much detail.
bravo to you and your tackling this.
just keep doing what u'r doing thank's
Thanks for the vids, I started off with just replacing the engine then noticed slop in the trans shaft so I removed the front bearing and the slop was still there and pulled the shaft out and the end bearing fell apart so I had to get another bearing so now I'm waiting for them in the mail
Mine is doing the exact same thing.I had ordered a new front seal because it was leaking gear oil and I noticed alot of slop.I can push or pull the shaft about a 1/2 inch..I may need to do the same thing as you I will be tearing into it tomorrow..Do you mind telling me the parts you ordered? Thanks
I am very glad it is of help to you. Lets keep these graet machine running.
Awesome video, thanks!
So much better designed and built than the new cheap tillers.
Really like the way you are doing it
I'm watching this for the first time in 2023. You ask at the time what you could do while editing to improve the content. My thoughts on that are for repetitive operations do a fast forward after the first few frames explain what the procedure is. I am doing a complete teardown for a friend's machine and this may save me from getting in over my head. Thank you
Great stuff thank you
shaft is inertia welded hollow tube early models were solid assembled I welded hundreds of them those could handle 12 hp with ease overbuilt
My Mechanic Dad put some STP in it and 90/140 gear oil back in 1970 and I drain and refilled it with Lukas hub oil and 90/140 gear oil, it looked like new inside box
what book are you using for the teardown?
if the seals leak fill the gearboxes with grease. its worked for years no gear wear at all and saves worry time and money💓
I don't know if you're still 9:16 using your older Troybilt rototiller or not but if you're still helping people, I have some questions for you. We have an older machine which looks about the same year as yours. Even has the same tires. No one has been able to tell me what year ours is. My folks bought this one and I'm thinking it could be around a 1972 or 73. So in watching your videos I decided to teart into this thing. I wouldn't have done it if I didn't have these videos to guide me. Well I think I've hit a snag. When I took the tine assembly apart, there were some rollers from a roller bearing in there. After pulling the cap off the back end I found where they'd come from. The rear bearing for the drive shaft was completely disintegrated. I was looking at the very end of the driveshaft and it looks to me like there is some of it missing. Like it broke off. The brass worm gear was pretty chewed up and there were thousands of brass shavings mixed in with the sludge in the bottom of the tine shaft housing. I can't seem to find a driveshaft for this old of a machine. Do you have any contacts who might have one? I'd really appreciate it.
very nice job!
I got my parts from super x power. There are no spaces between the words but youtube won't let me type links in the comments so I put spaces in there. They have been very good to me. As you have seen or might see I made my own shaft and reverse disc.
I have a question about the connection between the drive shaft outer tube and the rear tine shaft assembly. Are they threaded together or spot welded. Mine is separated and I don't see how they are connected and I have a 1" gap between the tube and spline assembly. The part I am referring to can be seen at 8:40, it looks like I see threads as well as two spot welds?
Wanted to see how to get a Tecumsah engine running-spark plug number, carb rebuild etc
Where can I find manual for my hose Troy bilt. Thanks for the video.
Hi Doc... I have a 70s troybilt (I think), when I had the belt off to put a new belt on, I noticed the lower has 1/2 inch (or more) play from front to back.. and it's been leaking, off and on.. is that a bearing and seal, or could it be even more serious problems?
You may have to shim the shaft , I've heard that the play will wear out the bronze gear.
I would rather see the hands on long versions. Step by step, I'm looking at 3-4 different tillers trying to decide if they are worth the cost of parts to repair them. One has destroyed the tiller worm gear and shaft due to water and dirt intrusion. Over $400 in parts alone unfortunately it's the newest of all of them I am looking at. I'm wondering if there is a seal between the tiller gears and the transmission gears to keep the dirt and water from getting to the transmission? Thanks for sharing.
I thank God for you. Same problems. Where did you buy the parts, rear bearings, gaskets. etc.? Thank you.
Where would I find a manual like you have? Thanks I'm about to check my rear gear and the seal is shot... It stopped moving forward and I noticed oil coming out from the seal..Hoping it was just low on oil and that the gear is ok.
The shaft was put in before worm gear shimed i used to work at troy bilt in troy ny 1979 to 85
Before you took the top off, what is the spring with the bolt in it? Is it some kind of a blow off valve? I had gear oil come out of it and I don’t know if I am in trouble or not. Just bought the thing and my wife was already mad about it as it is.
That assembly limits the reverse engagement. The spring is there so it will automatically disengage the reverse friction drive if you let go of it. It has an adjustment bolt on the top.
I prefer to watch everything in detail. That way I don't miss a step.
Take all the time you want during your videos. I'll just push J or L to jump forward or back as I need to.
hands on
HI, I have a 6HP Econo-Horse Troybilt tiller. I need quite a few parts for it. Wouldn't mind used if they are good and not bad priced. I need the worm gear for the drive line in the transmisson The big one. I need the Main Drive Shaft Assembly for the transmission. Need some bearings, seals too. Main gasket. You know where I can get these. Been on Ebay with no luck. Called the main Company which is MTD now for parts. I can get some of them but not the Main Drive Shaft Assembly. Any help appreciated. Thanks
I got my parts from superxpower.com
can you tell me where to get the pdf file thanks
I have to rebuild mine TH-1002 where did you get your parts?
Prefer details. Those others can fast forward
I have a Troy Bilt horse Tiller and the PTO Lever does not stay engaged. The lever has a lot of play in it. Can you please help.
I replied to what I think your email address is to be. If you dont get it, comment in here and I will call you.
You asked. If you have four screws, we don't need to see you unscrew 4 screws. Just start and the finish. The in between isn't neceassary or interesting. thanks
Screw 4 screws in your head moron