Troy-Bilt Horse Rototiller Tines won't Engage - Fixing Seized Dog Clutch/PTO (1986 PTO Horse Tiller)
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- čas přidán 30. 07. 2024
- The tine unit on this 1986 Troy-Bilt PTO Horse rototiller wouldn't engage due to a seized dog clutch/PTO shaft. This video shows disassembly of the dog clutch, freeing the seized mechanism/PTO shaft, reassembling the dog clutch/PTO and packing with grease. Freeing the seized mechanism required penetrating oil, vibration (light tapping), and heat. If you encounter this situation, one (or all three) of those techniqes may be necessary.
What you should have done, was to smear a thin coat of silicone sealer, on that tine gearbox sealing surface, to keep out any further moisture from ever getting on that dog gear, for the tines engagement piece. I use to be a mechanic on these yard machines, years ago. Also , that actuator box, for the tines, is actually supposed to have a heavy weight gear oil in that box, Not grease. The reason being is with engine & gearbox heat, that grease will melt, and drip away from your engagement mechanism, leaving the sliding dog gear, to lose lubrication again. That is why we use a heavy weight gear oil in that box. When that gearbox, was originally designed, it has machined surfaces, which allows you to not using a gasket. That's why I said to use a thin coat of silicone sealant there. You'd be ahead of the game, if you were to remove the tines now, and apply some silicone, on those surfaces now. Just to keep any moisture from causing any rust on those moving parts in the future. Just Saying.
I use 90/140 and mix Lukas hub oil with it due to heat in West Texas
@@philliphall5198 Hey Philip, you'd be better off, using the 90 with by itself. Not a multi grade oil.
Love these tillers..A true American workHORSE from back when we made things to last.
Best built item ever made in America 🇺🇸
Many thanks! Precisely my problem after many yrs of non use. Getting the time clutch freed up is my final task to get my 1986 Horse functional again.
Thank you for sharing this informative video. Laughed empathetically when the lock ring went into orbit. Great explanation, practical processes, and video. Well done!
has any one else lost i C-clip the same way, Yes many, you could also ue Grese as a temp seal at that joint it should repeal the Water, but never Pressure was any sealed area's ever.
Thank You so much for your posting with as much detail as you offered. My biggest problem was getting the snap ring off. Had the correct tool except the points on the tip had to be ground down to fit the tiny holes on the snap ring. It appeared to be one side of the slotted key that had rusted to the shaft. A little bit of rust inhibitor in the shaft did the trick. The shifter to engage the tines work Slick !! FYI my Model was a 2012 with exactly the same system.
I usually do most of my own trades work but without any schematic of the inner workings I was going blind into this repair. Your assistance with the posting made this an easy fix. Thanks again!🎉🎉❤❤
Great video! I have one of these babies that was gifted to me with a splitter and tiller attachment. Had the splitter on when I received it, works a treat, however I just recently put the tiller attachment on and the tines run without resistance, but as soon as they touch the dirt, nothing but grinding noises.. I dissected the PTO parts but was unsure what all was amiss.. Ah, the head must have snapped off the engagement bolt, there's nothing there to engage the dog ear... not sure how it was fine with the splitter attached and broken now, but it is. The snap ring was missing from mine so, you're certainly not the only fella to loose the snap ring into "open air", LOL.
I'll try getting what's left of the broken engagement bolt out of the lever, if that proves too difficult, it's going to be "full time" PTO.. I'll add a bushing behind the dog ear. Cheers buddy!!
Great video. Thanks. Half of things you said for this repair I said to my wife on our honeymoon.
Excellent tutorial video no nonsense. Thanks
I had the same problem and watched your video. It was great help and I had the pto apart and back together in an hour ..thank you very much
Thanks for the video! Had an ear on my dog gear break off, and this video was very helpful! Got my tiller up and running again, thanks to you
Thank you, very valuable. I have the same issue. Five star review!
Thanks for your videos.just what I needed.i love my horse
Fantastic! All the info I needed.
I’ve been looking just for this. Thank you very much. Hoping to try all that out soon. !! Very informative !!
I am having to do this. Good job, well done!
Thanks! I made the video because I thought it might be helpful for someone else. Just be careful if you use heat.
Thanks for the video. It was very helpful.
I’m so happy you made this. I have the same exact tiller that was gifted to me. This season my pto engage snapped right off and I can’t figure out how I’m supposed to fix it. This video helped a lot thank you
Same here. My engage broke and will have to replace it. Thanks
I was able to get it taken care off after watching the video pretty easily just a little welding and it was good as new! Good luck!
Thanks for the help!!!
Fantastic. As good as it gets!
Great video!
14:54 Oh man, ptingggg. Been there, done that. Great video. Thanks.
Very informative
great video thanks , just happened to me today.
I’m glad it was helpful. It was a surprise to me when it was seized up. This tiller has been in my family since it was new and is well maintained. Never happened before!
I just replaced all the seals in my tiller attachment last weekend. I have the chipper/shredder mounted on it now. When I make the swap, I'll make sure to grease the snot out of that while I have it separated.
How hard was replacing those seals in the tiller attachment??
It was pretty simple all said and done. I had mine completely torn down because I replaced a shaft also. For seals only, I found a couple other vids out there I wish I would have seen first though.
like to see a video of the chipper / shredder. I have one but can't see how to hook it up with controls and handle bar in the way
I removed the key but the clutch is frozen on the shaft and it’s difficult to apply leverage to move it back out. As you mentioned in your video earlier, I’m going to apply some heat. Someone else online with the same problem suggested that. Do you agree?
Great stuff, thank you. Don't have that problem but I bookmarked for when I do.
One minor quibble: treat yourself and buy a proper mechanic's ball peen hammer. I realize the difference in temper very rarely results in problems when a claw hammer is used on machinery but it still makes me cringe. :)
My Dad worked on these and he used Indian head cement between the trans clutch units
Hi. I replied earlier but have been unable to remove the dog clutch. I removed the lock ring and the key but can’t separate the dog clutch from the shaft. Soaked everything with Liquid Wrench. It did move slightly when I tapped it but unfortunately back not forward! Anyway to free it from the shaft?
There is a key on the shaft. If I recall, I got the key out and worked it from the rear until it spun. Then I worked in the side of the housing to move it forward and back. Grease the heck out of it after.
So what about the seal behind he engagement cog? You don't think it got damaged from the heat of the torch? Doesn't that seal keep the gearbox oil from leaking outta the unit?...🤔
Other than that, and watching you launch the snapring(been there, done that), you showed me something I was dealing with on a used unit I just purchased. Seems the Troybilts are prone to rust issues. You'll wanna keep the big pin slides between the engine and transmission box clean and lubed as they are also known to rust and sieze up if not exercised.😉
The seal seems OK so far. I was worried about the heat near it too, but it’s pretty far back to the seal and I focused the heat in short bursts on the PTO end of the shaft only. Thankfully it didn’t take much heat. Only one or two other bursts that I didn’t show. It’s possible the seal didn’t get much hotter than it would after an hour or two of hard running. My Dad bought this tiller new in 1986 and it’s always stored in a shed. It has been well maintained. This issue came as a surprise. The engine slides are certainly well lubed, as is the F/N/R lever.
The main reason that Troybuilt equipment has rust prone areas, is because they build their products from cast iron, which is pours, which holds moisture. Addressing the part where he used a torch, he did this to help enlarge the sliding components, and he did so, only momentarily, not long enough to cause any damage to anything else. In most cases, you're able to use the same gaskets, in the event, that you forgot to get some new ones etc. But Troybuilt, uses a thick gasket material, which you'd be fine in most cases, adding some silicone sealer spread out across the sealing surfaces, evenly. On the Many different pieces of equipment that I've repaired for customers, I've very rarely had to replace the gaskets, because of the high grade of gasket material that Troybuilt uses. I've always just used a very thin film of silicone, and it has never failed me.
Ultimately, I've always let the customer know and decide what they want. Gaskets can be a bit pricey, when you're purchasing them. Some more than others. Also I keep a bulk roll of gasket material on hand, to make my own gaskets, when needed. I hope this helps some of you.
Seems a lot of people have decided to fix there up and bring to shop
Which is good because slow in winter down here and hard to pressure wash them
I have same machine and. problem...except mine was not having a problem spinning...the engage lever just doesnt move it. Of course, I'm a little frustrated.
That is the same problem. I couldn’t move the engagement lever. You can only spin the shaft without spinning the whole transmission once the shaft key is removed. The outer piece needs to slide forward and back to engage and disengage. I got it free by spinning it on the inner shaft and then getting it forward/back.
Hey, it finally came off. Heat and a little leverage via the hole for the engage lever. I’m gonna fine steel wool the shaft and as you say, grease the heck out of it! Thanks for response. Your video was a life saver. BTW, my Horse is a 1986 as well. Where you located? We’re in Upstate NY.
NH
Where did you get your owners manual?
My father bought this machine new and kept all the original manuals, including the parts manual. The owner’s manual is very good and even details seal replacements. You don’t normally see that today.
you can find them on the forums, or just Google. then download what you need.
show us a video of changing the oils and lubricating the rest of the tiller
Unfortunately I replaced the tine shaft seals about 2 years ago and the gear oil doesn’t need changing any time soon. Other lube is just the shift levers and slider posts by the engine where it slides to tighten and engage the belt. Maybe I can show hitting those in spring.
Mine has the opposite problem.. It won't disengage the tines to clutch. Mines at least still usable but isn't fun.
It’s probably the same issue - dog clutch and shaft seized in the engaged position instead of disengaged.
@@ProductiveRecreation right and I'm not wanting to tare it down to fix it. I can still run it for now. Will see how long it stays engaged
That is when a can of lithium spay grease is worth it's weight in gold,
I can’t stand the music in a workplace or watching a video
I hit the dislike button