Use FAKE Vase Mode when going BIG with Spiral Vase Mode prints!
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- čas přidán 8. 05. 2022
- Hello, 3D Printing friends! Today we're going to learn how to print in Fake Vase Mode! It's another handy tool to keep in your 3D printing tool kit!
Did this video help you out, save you a bunch of time, or help you learn something new?
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#FakeVaseMode - Věda a technologie
Well the vase mode has no seam and that's the game changer.
You can not get that with this method.
However it's a great way of getting functional parts with thin walls strong!
And if the part has sharp edges where you can hide the seam the main advantage of vase mode isnt even relevant anymore.
Great video :)
It kind of makes this method pointless, really. Probably why he didn't use Cura. Cura's "Fake Spiralize Outer Contour" that doesn't 'spralize' loses its punch.
I was heading this way on my own last week and had to take a break. Was delighted to see the notification pop up with exactly the topic I needed! Keep on rocking, BV!
Absolutely brilliant. I was having this exact issue with Curas vase mode setting. Changed things to how you recommend and things are looking better. Print is now running and look forward to a 18hour print.
Showing the slinky really did a great job of visually showing how vase mode works. it's my favorite analogy. I love calling it, “Fake Vase Mode”! I've been using your extrusion width idea and have been saving on lots of printing hours. Thanks for all the slicer tips!
You're welcome! I've used that slinky as a visual aid in other videos about spiral vase mode. In fact I specifically bought it for that purpose! 👍
Thanks for sharing Bryan. Great to keep in mind for bigger vase mode prints!
Beautiful, Bryan. I enjoyed this. Easy to follow, handy checklist, good camera zooming, and I liked the trashcan sound when you knocked on it. Hey, thanks for putting our sticker on your laptop! That made me smile, too! -Rich (Oh yes, a GG3D shout out to Andrew Rogers! He IS a super awesome person!)
Thanks so much for this! Really clear and helpful presentation speed. I'm using ideaMaker and the procedure is very similar. Am now enjoying trials with 1, 2, 3, 4 & 5 shells but even with 2, the increase in strength over the vase mode's single shell is great.
Nice video.
I have been using 'fake' vase mode for printing nosecones for my model rockets. And the support blocker to add mass to parts that experience a lot of stress. And I learned all this from watching your and CHEP'S videos. So thank you very much.
Very clever and useful tip Mr. Vines. Thanks!
I appreciate your "bin" design btw, I have about 6 of them around the office for purge lines 👍
I think we have a competition here. 😜
I want to see a side by side of your extra thick vase mode vs this. I think yours would be faster and his would look better.
but who's is stronger? 🤔
I have printed many as well! It's such a great model!
Thanks! I must have 20 of them in various sizes around the house!
That's my next print in a mo .thanks I like to try the things you come up with
Interesting video as always 👍.
I very like your approach with step by step view of what the slicer do with the preview.
Great Job 👌
Thanks for sharing your experience with all of us 👍🙂
Thanks, and you're very welcome!
I hope you realize that whatever hack or trick you do in these vids, you express it WAY better than anybody else out there.
Liked and subscribed.
Super technique. I do similar and never knew I was faking!!!! Thanks Bryan
Thanks! 😊
Very interesting and informative! I need to try this out! Thanks!
Another excellent video. Entertaining and informative.
thanks, keep it in mind.
I love this bin
ended up making a 1000% scale one for my garage lol
Well done Bryan good info that I never think of. Take care my friend.
Thanks, Zimmy!
Thank you!
Excellent tutorial Bryan... Love it!
Thanks! 👍
Thank you.
Lost In Tech has gone way over the nozzle width with vase mode prints with very good results
Yes, been doing that for some time and it works pretty good. But I use cura
awesome man! subbed!
Nice job.
2 things... I've gone up to 0.8 from a 0.4 nozzle in vasemode. Also, there should be an option in the sliced view to show the volumetric flow. I've had some of my slices hit 14+mm/s3 (microswiss hotend). Most stock printers should, probably, try to keep the value under 9-10. May not be an issue, but just throwing it out there.
I never used vase mode and have been doing this since i started printing, just made sense . and this is the first time im seeing this video or knowing what its called.
Your T-shirt is exceptional. Link?
Wow to drop half the print time us amazing
Have you seen Tom Stanton or Nerys on vase mode printing? They also have a great hack that ensures rigidity whilst leaving out seams (which you now do have)
Thanks!
awesome video also don't forget to create a profile with these settings for future use
Thank you 🙏🏻
Thanks again Bryan. But seriously, I need to know where you get your t-shirts from, they are hilarious.
Right? Come for the 3D Printing knowledge, stay for the funny wardrobe! When are we gonna see some Rick and Morty stuff?
Haha! My wife buys me most of them as gifts. I got several for Christmas! 😀 I think she gets a lot of them from Redbubble.com
@@BV3D, "The older I get, the less life in prison is a deterrent..."
@@BV3D tell your lovely wife that we think she’s a keeper!!!
THANK YOU!
Hi and thanks! Question: How did you manage the seam line/dots?
10% likes to views. Crazy percentage! Thanks for the super clarity.
Now thats cool 😎 👍, I remember trying to find vase mode in cura lol bye the way I switch to Head and shoulders 😉
Nice work! For big non-vases/closed-top objects, consider tossing in a Lightning infill (Cura).
I'll keep that one in mind! Thanks for the tip! 👍
Yes, lightning infill. Used it when I printed a mold for a finalized model. Shaved 6 hours of my print time and 50 meters of the needed filament.
@BV3D Thanks for the tips. I've printed your Desktop Trashcan @ 0.28mm/layer & 0.6mm extrusion width @ 60mm/sec. Turned out great.
You never did mention at what speed and fan cooling settings you were using... care to share those?
(Long time lurker & subscriber)
Awesome "hacks", but that shirt is the best part of the video. 🤣
Thanks for the great information and video. You might want to add a little reminder in your teleprompter every few sentences to 'BLINK'. Thanks hahaha
I'm secretly an AI, and don't need to blink. 🙂😊🙂
I wonder if you have profiles that you're willing to share for prusa or cura slicer
You can actually print 0.8 walls with a 0.4 nozzle, specially in vase mode. it's how the fast modular storage system on Curse is reccomended to print for example. it works perfectly.
Yeah, 0,8 works fine for me too.
My understanding is that increasing the layer height does cost a bit of strength, because as the layers get closer to the nozzle diametre they get closer to having true circle cross section, and thus less surface area in contact with the layers above and below. It may not be enough to matter, but everything is a trade off, and it's good to keep in mind when using materials with poor layer adhesion.
Also, I'm always curious about dialect, and find your pronunciation of "plater" interesting. Around here (Edmonton), "plater" with a long A is kitchen jargon meaning the person who puts all the parts of a meal on the customer's plate. When "plater" is used to mean "a large tray used to serve items" it has a short A and would rhyme with "latter." The second version is also how people who've never worked in a professional kitchen would say it in any context. Totally not relevant, of course, but it's always fun to hear variations in the language!
im using a 0.6mm nossle and im printing vase mode perfectly at 1.2mm layer width.
I wish you would have shown the seam on that "fake vase trashcan" post print.
HI, great video. Is it possible though to print a cylinder in vase mode (say 80mm high), with a reinforcing 20mm band or belt around the middle of it, that sticks out 3 or 4 mm (like wearing a belt around its middle or waist). When using your settings, the object is sliced incorrectly leaving a weak point where the band in the middle begins and ends or connects to the rest of the cylinder. Thank you.
I have been printing some plant covers come micro cloche things for my old dads plantlings in natural PETG for the last couple of days, I used a 0.8 nozzle and 0.6 layers and the first one came out stiffer than required so I printed the rest at 0.5mm using Chucks fast profile for Cura, I quite like Prusaslicer and I use it with my MKIIIs but for my other machines the stock profiles are terrible and PS has its own version of G-code so you cant just transfer the printer profiles from Cura to PS, I am much more proficient in Cura than PS so anything that needs some tinkering gets done in Cura and printed on one of my other machines I have created loads of different profiles for different nozzles and printing techniques so most of the time its just a case of clicking the correct profile, I have one machine that I run on RepRap FW on a Duet 3 board and setting that one up was a doddle on Cura, whereas I gave up after 30 mins with PS.
Is anyone aware of the location of any good 3rd party profiles for using PS with machines other than Prusa's?
I'd love to find a good location for profiles as well. They seem to be scattered all over the place.
You can go VERY wide extrusion width on a standard 0.4mm nozzle if you just slow it waaaaaay down and maybe raise the temp. Like a millimetre shouldn't be a problem at all.
This...effing...guy... 🏆
Will it be water tight?
it is all good and all but what if you need a ball? i had the problem of printing christmass blown up bubbles around 8 centimeters in diameter and it was imposible to print with 04mm nozzle because of overhangsat near 90 degree, so i increased nozzle to 0,8mm and used clever adaptive layer height from 0,1 to 0,55mm where i could and that all in vase mode so it has no seems
but then to fix the top i sliced it again with the same layer heights but with a conventional 3 top layers 0% infill and swaped that part of the code manually when stepover on top become wider than 1,3 of the nozzl;e width by manually copying and replacing that part of the print in notepad
the 80mm ball on a short stem prints in about 40 minutes like that, still slicing a ball for vase mode took me a while to figure out
too bad that your method still have a seem even if you can randomize it it would still be there otherwise i could use that method although it most likely be slower
I'd like to have some automatic mode that would slice the vase in two equal halves and would take care of the way of connecting those e.g. pins and holes, does anyone knows a way of doing it in FreeCAD, a addon or something ?
Prusaslicer seems so much more complicated than Cura!
Does anyone have a fake vase mode profile for Cura available? When I slice stuff, it looks like it has gaps in the layer lines for some reason so I wnated to compare someone else's profile
Now how can I do this for printing a pot that I first cut up in Meshmixer to fit in my build volume?
By scaling it in the slicer?
I have watched several videos on this topic and can't figure this out. I can't get my model to hollow out. I follow all the steps, top layer 0, infill 0, slice and I still get a solid piece. Any thoughts as to why taht is? What am I missing?
You make me curious to what part you are trying to print. Is it so small that perimeter walls fill up the middle?
Looks like old vase mode to me, but ive been 3d printing since 2012 😅
You don't need a bigger nozel. I regularly print my vase mode prints at 1.2mm width with just the standard 0.4 mm nozel.
^^ this. Though ideally you switch to a larger nozzle, this does work. I'd rather do this than risk unsightly Z seams, which to me avoiding the z seams is a big part of vase mode.
Is the file for the bin available somewhere?
Hi John! It's on Thingiverse. At some point I need to move all my stuff over to Printables.com or something. Anyway, here's a link: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3806866
@@BV3D Thank you Bryan.
Problem is...... You will now have a seam! You should have stated that so people know. One thing about vase mode is no seam.
True! Check out Tom Stanton or Nerys on vase mode printing, they have some great tips how to combine strength and vase mode.
Use a scarf and stop getting hysterical.
That is not vase mode at all, but just making the walls thicker. Where do you locate the inevitable seam. Well you said fake, ok acknowledging that :)
Well, PrusaSlicer at least has a "random seam position" setting that costs a little time but starts each layer in a random spot, so the seams don't align from layer to layer and thus usually stay below the ability of the human eye to detect.
Not going to lie looks like a giant wire nut.
Haha! It kind of does!
Unfortunately you will have seams
True! Check out Tom Stanton or Nerys on vase mode printing, they have some great tips how to combine strength and vase mode.
I guess this might be helpful to someone who has literally no idea how slicer settings work? I wouldn't call this "fake vase mode", I would just call it 3D printing.