Cura Slicer Advanced Fast & Stronger 3d Printed Vases without Vase Mode
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- čas přidán 30. 07. 2024
- Objects printed in Vase or Spiralize mode are often quite beautiful but fragile. In this video, we explore techniques applicable to any slicer, Cura, PrusaSlicer, ideaMaker, and others, for producing stronger vases quickly.
00:00 Introduction
02:49 What is a vase?
03:34 Creating a Simple Vase in a CAD Program
04:38 Slicing a Vase
06:07 Printing Solids in Vase Mode
07:37 Strong Vase Mode Prints without Vase Mode
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The MakeWithTech channel teaches people how to use desktop technology to create, innovate and make things. If you are a "maker" and want to learn more about 3d Printing, 3d Printers, 3d Printing Slicers, Computer-Aided Design (CAD), or 3d Modeling, this is a place you should visit often. The channel includes additional content about using a wood lathe, woodworking, programming single-board computers such as the Raspberry Pi, Adafruit Circuit Playground, ESP32, and Python. Available reviews are about Prusa, Creality, Monoprice, ANET, JG Maker, and Flashforge 3d Printers. Slicers covered include MatterControl, Cura, PrusaSlicer, Flashprint, and IdeaMaker. CAD design videos cover TinkerCAD, FreeCAD, OpenSCAD, and Shapr3D. Slicers covered have MatterControl, Cura, PrusaSlicer, Flashprint, and IdeaMaker.
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Let's continue to learn together. Irv
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"Cura warns us it might be a mistake. But it's not. We know what we're doing"
That gave me a chuckle.
I watch all your 3d printing videos. Even if I think I know the topic, I learn something new.
Ironically he in fact does not know what he's doing. He doesn't understand vase mode, just like he last time didn't understand monotonic skin lines. In fact, every other 3D printing CZcamsr know better what they're doing.
@@marcus3d That's simply ridiculous. He knows what he's doing. He also knows the weakness, literally, of vase mode with a small nozzle. He even says it's possible to create strong prints in vase mode by using a nozzle with a larger opening. He's simply trying to find a way of getting stronger prints without having to swap nozzles. Of course it's not ideal, as he says, but it's a compromise that may appeal to some people.
Great walkthrough of the process!
Thanks for sharing your experience with all of us 👍😀
Thanks for sharing. You definitely break it down where it's easy to understand and comprehend. I really appreciate it! 👏
Had a buncha failures with trying vase mode goingnto try this way tonight. Very clear and concise instructions!!
Thank you for this excellent video. It is easy to forget that many of us are either new or just dabble occasionally. The way you explain what the changes you suggest are actually doing allows me to better understand how to tweak and tune things across the board. The age old "Give a man a fish..." or "Teach a man to fish..." scenario. The more I already know the information you are sharing, the more I realize I have learned already. Cheers.
Another tip is to use a wider extrusion width. For example in PrusaSlicer, the default extrusion width (you'll have to figure out which "width" is used for Vase mode, in Prusa it's the "External Perimeter" one), is 0.45mm. I've printed successfully up to 0.8mm without any visible surface imperfections, and I've printed up to 1.2mm successfully with some degradation in surface quality. This is all with a standard 0.4mm nozzle. As long as the layer bonding is good, those 0.8mm spiral prints are *really* sturdy, and very fast!
Just another trick that is good to have in your 3D printing reportoire.
Thank you. I absolutely agree that there are many ways to get the job done.
Is 0.8mm width enough to make it strong enough?
@@goku445 0.8mm will make for a pretty sturdy vase print, yeah. Of course there's always some flex, but it depends on what the use-case is.
@@Mythricia1988 thanks. I guess it's ok for smaller vases. Wonder about permeability tho.
@@goku445 From my experience it depends on the substance. Even thin walls work well for water, but for oily substances, 3D printed containers behave like a sieve... So, seems to be related to the surface tension of the liquid.
Herb just want to say what a pleasure it is to watch your content. I am new to 3D printing and learning with you is amazing! Thank you so much!
Indeed! very nicely done
Great content as usual man, thanks for the info, very useful!
I really dig your channel, you and Chep have given me a really good crash course over the last 4 months. I’m getting amazing results from my ender 3. You remind me of my ex girlfriend’s dad, (a rabbi) very calming and pleasant personality, also, your explanations are excellent.
Always great tips and tricks. Thanks for the video tutorials!
Thanks Irv, simple and great info!
This is amazing! Thank you very much for teaching us!
Thanks very much for the tip Irv!!
Hi Irv, This was absolutely fascinating! I'm trying to find the secret formula for waterproofing and while that question wasn't really addressed I learned so much more about cura then I originally thought. Thank you!
Short and concise is good!
Love this! Great tutorial Ivr
Thanks for the great info.
Thanks i really had been looking for a way to make nice strong vases
hehe..just a few days ago I decided to try vase mode and I was not very satisfied with the strength of the printed model..in the same way as you I approached solving the problem..manual vase mode..it turned out great ..so much stronger vase...i did it with two walls and it turns out great.. anyway great video,i enjoy to watch them..
As a newbie in 3D print I appreciate your approach! Thanks and respectful greetings from Austria!
… and the NY Tristate area.😂
Thank you
Awesome video! I learned a bunch!
Thank you for sharing👍👍👍
Very helpful thank you!! 👍
Great video thank you
Awesome!
Great! thanks!
great video, thkx Irv
I just finished printing a funnel in spiral mode with Cura. I have been using .8mm line width in my vase mode profile. I decided to print this in 1.2mm for the first time. The result was great. The surface (both inside and outside) is very good. I used a layer height of .28mm and the funnel looks like it was printed with a .2mm layer height. This funnel is pretty simple so I want to print a more complex vase with the 1.2mm line width to see if the 1.2mm works for other items. All my previous prints with .8mm line width have been very good. And lastly, the strength of this funnel is is pretty amazing considering that it was printed in vase mode.
Perfect timing, I was wanting to attempt a "vase" and had no idea how and they seemed so weak
Thank you! :)
Thank you. I love your videos.
Will try right now.
I had never thought of doing it this way!
Whenever I have made anything with vase mode, I've used a .6 nozzle with the line width cranked up high.
Really useful tip, thanks!
Thanks. As you noticed you can combine these two techniques. Larger nozzle and multiple lines.
A great place to discuss this is at the MakeWithTech forum located at forum.makewithtech.com.
At the free MakeWithTech forum/discussion group, you can also post images and examples of your work.
What? You never thought of slicing vases in normal mode? There's nothing new here. In fact, the suggested "solution" is the default settings in any slicer. The consequence of using normal layers is the seam, and this video doesn't show how to get rid of the resulting imperfections, so what exactly did you learn from this video?
Actually your way of doing it is much, much better. Just use a bigger nozzle and crank up the line width, and then spiralize it. You did it right.
@@marcus3d I learned something.
@@hugohugo37 What did you learn?
Great tutorial, as are all your videos! You are giving me hope in Cura LOL. I think E3D's new REVO is going to be an awesome, quick way to print strong vases, as the nozzle change will be extremely quick. I'm itching to try them out. Either way, settings need to be adjusted in Cura!
Thanks Sir.
you're the best
Best on CZcams. Come on BBC, sign this guy up!
BBC is the past
Thank you so very much for this! Wanted to print a flask could not figure out how to keep liquid from escaping!
You can often minimize those bumps by turning coasting on. Also, for a model like this you could actually turn retraction off. A combination of these options can reduce or remove the blips.
Correct. Thanks for sharing. You can also experiment with minimum segment size.
Great video! You have opened a whole new world for me in Cura. I see while you are explaining z seam alignment the outer wall wipe distance is set to zero. Have you found a distinctive difference in quality from changing it from 0.2?
I resorted to nearly the same method the other day on my own to see if it would get rid of those little blobs in vase mode on my Ender 3 V2. It does :)
i am confused, i have the ender 3 v2 too, how did you lose the blobs/dots ?
@@AireDeZapatos Basically, print a vase in normal mode, like you would print anything else, not in Spiralize mode.
Great Video, as always. Thank you. If you choose another filament color, it might be better visible on camera?!
Good point.
you can print a top in vase mode if the top comes to a point at 45 degrees or less. :)
I also like to use weight mode but I prefer to find pieces in the field 32mm I have a bunker and trees (massive trunk) I usually print 0.4 but I print 0.6 wall
Hello and thanks for the video. Can you help me with this question? is there an option in Cura to print the first layer in 1 line? i often face the problem of seperate printed cirkels in corners that come off of the bed, while the cirkels easily can be connected in the first layer. For example a constructionplate with 4 holes in the corners, easy to merge in the printing direction of the first layer.
Or is such an option already availible in the experimental section? thx
I printed a tulip vase using your setting and it came out very good, the only thing was some stringing inside at the start of the printing of the petals. What can I do to prevent this?, also I would like to thank you for your very interesting and helpful tutorials.
Watch this video on tuning your printer, you can jump to the part on retraction if you don't have much time. czcams.com/video/rp3r921DBGI/video.html
Does Cura have a wipe or coast option to remove those bumps? Also can you force the travel to happen over the model, meaning along the wall to remove stringing?
yes it does!
How about trying to hide the seam by arranging wall printing order in to out so that the seam is kept inside.. also enabling combing to minimize those blobs.
My thoughts also!
You can make the start point inside but the external perimeter has to stop somewhere and will leave a visible seam.
great video but i still dont know what i need to make it stronger and can hold water.. did i miss it when you say which setting it is
Can I use this technique to print a half sphere( dome)? Thank you
I'm assuming that printing a vase with this method that has a shaped outer design like the ones on your shelf is going to be much more difficult although the seam will be able to be hidden on the sharpest corner
It should work just fine.
Or, keep the vase mode, switch to a larger nozzle and/or overextrude to avoid those z-seam zits and get a stronger print
Well... Thank you! For sharing in a way that even a beginner understand!! Is there any way of printing small boxes ( 90X70X65mm ) that dont take forever? First I designed a box in thinkercad the way I use to, and slice it.. 7h per box! I need 12 of them. Then I tried spiral mode, 1,5h Then I tried making a box with "manual vasemod" with 1,2mm walls and it still would take 5h to print! Is it because its a square shape or am I missing something? I run a Ender 3 V2 with ms direct drive, all metal hot end, double z-screws and 0,4 nozzle.
Would Arc Welder be of any use with the technique?
I did find it very helpful. I am new to the 3d printing world so I have to ask a question that is bothering me. I have an Ender 3D Pro and it is not printing correctly. I have leveled it and have the settings right I think but I can print the bengy boat correctly yet. It looks good until about half way through. When I come back to check again it has a wire mess and is trying to print in mid air above the boat, what am I doing wrong? Please help!
You either need to film the print or watch it until failure as there are many things that can go wrong and you don't have enough info to diagnose the cause.
So there is no cure for seams if you need more layers wall. If its back - vertical lie, if its random - random dots... Possible to do something? I hoped to find an answer in this video to be honest.
Isn't there a way to make a pseudo vasemode but without travels (where it doesn't print)?
E.g. like this with 3 walls:
1. Prints the inner circle.
2. Prints the middle circle.
3. Prints the outer circle.
4. Goes seamless to next layer and prints the outer circle.
5. Prints the middle circle.
6. Prints the inner circle.
7. Goes seamless to next layer and prints the inner circle.
...
I hope it's clear what I mean.
I don't know why this shouldn't be possible technically. But I have no idea what settings on PrusaSlicer or Cura would end up in this.
Excuseme. Instead of using spiralized mode, use SURFACE MODE IN SURFACE O BOTH. and then you could set numbers of walls, roof, and bottom. sithout infill. so you can asign 4 walls and it will print quicker than your mode. excuseme please.
Disculpe, en vez de usar modo espiralizado usen modo superficie o Ambos y alli podrán asignarle el numero de paredes que desen como asimismo tapas, techos, fondo, piso y NO USAR RELLENO Y QUEDARA REFUERTE. Ademas se imprimira mas rapido. Con 2 paredes ya adquiere fortaleza y estanqueidad. Disculpen, no quise ser impertinente. He aprendido mucho con Ud. Sr. Saludos desde Argentina. EL MUNDO DEL PC - MARIO
I don't understand how come we can't have a setting that allows us to change the perimeters or Wall thickness Is when vase mode is selected
@MakeWithTech I have a wanhao i3(maker select plus v2) and I want to upgrade the firmware. Is this possible? Do you have a video on how to do so? I am not in the market to buy anything.
Question, that's the same as saying 100% infill, correct?
Can't you simply change extrusion width? I printed 0.8mm with 0.4mm nozzle to print a tube - it worked quite well (prusa slicer). Have not tryed to do extrusion widh 1.2mm on a 0.4mm nozzle. It would nice to see a comparision. As with modified extrussion width where would be no seam.
Yes but over and under extrusion is very imprecise since the nozzle is a fixed size. This approach is quite accurate.
What if you want a 3mm wall? This technique works with everything rather than a bodge of altering extrusion width. Which will add even more variables to the 3D printing equation you have to solve to get great prints.
@@supercheapmodelrailways5134 Than you have to live with seams, as the video shows quite well. The advantage of vase mode is having no seam. So until up to about 2....3 times the nozzle diameter, just editing extrusion width instead of other variables definitly is worth it. Esp. on constant cylindrial shapes (so no overhangs), there more extrusion do not lead to visible artifacts. There was a video about someone trying to compare a 0.4 and a 0.2mm Nozzle - but getting nearly exactly the same result - he forget to correct the extrusion with, wich was still 0.4 on the 0.2mm nozzle...
Do not mix up bigger extrusion width with over extrusion. Over extrusion is pressing more plastic in a space as fit there. Thats not the case with higher extrusion witdh. The amount of plastic is whats calculated by the slicer (on normal prints the way the nozzle takes is the same as on a 0.8mm nozzle). A bit more imperfection you might get on sharp changes in direction. but thats normaly not a problem with vases.
There is no - as we call it in german - "Eierlegende Wollmilchsau" (animal giving pork, wool and eggs). The solutions to get an optimal print differ by the object you want to print. Actually on the cyliner I wanted to print, the seam was rather bad. With using 0.8 mm extrusion with I got the strength I needed, without a seam.
What if we simple want to make an object hollow, like say a crystal for a light. But want it to have 3 walls?
I ask because that is my current challenge and no matter how I play with the settings, the wall count stays at 1
I just tried this on a simple tube that would slice at 5hrs 6mins. When I did vase mode, 1 hrs and 2 mins. When I tried what this video said, 5hrs and 1min. Not sure how he went from 3 hours to 1 hour.
Cura settings starting at 8:07
Can you use vase mode on something that’s not a vase?
Yes. Absolutely. You can use "spiralizer", "vase", etc. mode on any object that only requires an outside wall and no top.
Hi I've used cura for a year but it came with a 3d printer I bought on a sd card,where is the best place to download the latest version of cura that works on a different computer an 3d printer
Cura's website.
Can you make something other than a vase in vase mode?
My wall thickness is grayed out and it won't allow me to change it... ideas?
wall line counts changing more than 1 doesnt work.... i didnt miss anything did i??
It's not working for me it's staying at 11 hours vs 3 hours I'm vase mode. I can't figure out what I'm doing wrong. No top no Infill
Random seam alignment causes horrible pimples on the model skin with most bowden type printers. If only there would be a function to move the nozzle away from the outer wall slightly and jump to travel from the infill/inner wall...
I can't really understand how does the printer print 3x more wall lines with only 20% overtime.
I would rather use 0,6mm line width (1.5x nozzle size prints reasonably well) and 2 wall line count.
I tried this and cura still says 5 hours, vase mode was 1... not sure why I followed the video exactly
or you could do vase mode and just make your extrusion width wider
I've been trying to figure out how to design those nifty spiral vases. Or even better, double spiral vases. Doesn't seem to be an easy way with 123D Design. How is it done? The only way I can think of doing it is to create a series of stars, rotate them and move them up, and then loft between them. There's probably an easier way using other software (S-CAD, maybe?).
On more advanced CAD softwares, it's pretty straight forward. You create a base shape, and extrude that along a path that can be a spiral or what ever curve you draw in space. In more organic modelling software, like Blender, you can basically morph the 3d model by applying modifiers to the surface mesh, so you would just start with a cylinder, push and pull some vertices in and out to make a star shape, and then twist that thing by applying a rotation. I'm sure you'll find tutorial videos that show you the basic concept, and then you just need to go wild with your creativity...
@@ProtonOne11 Thanks. I tried my initial idea of copy/rotate/lift/lofting polygons. It works. I then tried making spirals out of long rectangle sketches, and then combining them with a reflected counter-spiral (sort of along the lines of a Terraplanter), and then multiplying them around a circle - this works, too - the problem came when I tried to do an intersection between the multiple spirals and a vase outline - at this point the computer started to drag (I'm using a 10 gen i7 with 16 GByte of RAM), and got worse when I tried doing this with a double spiral. I guess it's just too many objects. Converting to a .STL literally took hours, and the result was a 40 megabyte .STL! It does import into Cura, though. I'll have to see how it prints - Cura says 16 hours. I guess I should investigate and learn Blender, too.
The only reason I print in vase mode is to get rid of the seam/start-stop-imperfections...
"Oops, I broke it.." 😁
Amazing that 1 layer wall takes 1h 2min and 3 layers takes 1h 12min? It does not make any sense if you think about it. I also think you can up the extrusion width to 0.8 mm max in a single wall. So lets set that extrusion width to 0.6, and use 2 layers to get that required 1.2mm goal, that should be totally doable. Would it print faster? Of because of the extrusion width the mm/s goes down and is in fact not faster? Hmm..
Comment
This was not really helpful. It takes 5 minutes to swap tips.....just do that. You can also print wider than your tip size if you up the temp and go slower.
When using tools there are often multiple ways to solve a problem. If you are comfortable with swapping nozzles and retuning your slicer profile that is great. If you think you can get consistent results by over extruding that's another choice. This is a third alternative and their may in fact be other options.
Isn't it wonderful that we have so many options for producing objects with desktop, relatively low cost, technology?
Amazing video
Thank you very much.