4 Vase Mode Techniques Compared; How to use Cura for Vase Prints
Vložit
- čas přidán 30. 07. 2024
- Spiralize Outer Contour or Vase Mode is a technique for 3d printing solid objects as hollow shells used as containers or vases. In this update to a video from two months ago, I demonstrated four different approaches to vase mode and discuss the advantages and disadvantages of each.
In addition, I discuss a bug in the Creality firmware on recent model 3d printers that interact with vase mode.
While Crreality Slicer is used to demonstrate the configuration for these prints it is applicable to all major 3d print slicers including PrusaSlicer, Cura, and Simplify 3d.
The videos content follows:
00:00 Introduction
02:32 What is Vase mode?
03:46 Creality Vase Mode bug?
06:03 Cura Spiralize Outer Countour Set Up
08:50 Advantages of using a larger nozzle
09:52 How to configure over extrusion for stronger prints
12:22 Vases without Vase Mode
15:55 Recap
---
The MakeWithTech channel teaches people how to use desktop technology to create, innovate and make things. If you are a "maker" and want to learn more about 3d Printing, 3d Printers, 3d Printing Slicers, Computer-Aided Design (CAD), or 3d Modeling, this is a place you should visit often. The channel includes additional content about using a wood lathe, woodworking, programming single-board computers such as the Raspberry Pi, Adafruit Circuit Playground, ESP32, and Python. Available reviews are about Prusa, Creality, Monoprice, ANET, JG Maker, and Flashforge 3d Printers. Slicers covered include MatterControl, Cura, PrusaSlicer, Flashprint, and IdeaMaker. CAD design videos cover TinkerCAD, FreeCAD, OpenSCAD, and Shapr3D. Slicers covered include MatterControl, Cura, PrusaSlicer, Flashprint, and IdeaMaker.
---
Let's continue to learn together. Irv
---
The following links are to products I have used, reviewed, or evaluated for the MakeWithTech community. Some of the links below are affiliate links that provide commissions, at no cost to you, and help support the MakeWithTech video production, purchase of products for reviews, lab, forum, and website.
I have reviewed the following printers or similar printers:
➡︎ kit.co/makewithtech/3d-printe...
These are some of the tools I use for 3d printing day-to-day:
➡︎ kit.co/makewithtech/basic-3d-...
I have reviewed or used the following 3d printer upgrades:
➡︎ kit.co/makewithtech/3d-printe...
Here are the 3d printer filaments I use to evaluate prints, software, and techniques:
➡︎ kit.co/makewithtech/3d-printi...
I will be covering basic electronics and software in future MakeWithTech segments, and here are the products I am using:
➡︎ kit.co/makewithtech/software-...
Some of the Woodworking products I use:
➡︎ kit.co/makewithtech/drvax-woo...
---
** Affiliate disclaimer: some of the above links in my videos may be affiliate links, which generate a sales commission for me. Your price is the same or less than if you go to the site directly. These sales commissions help to support the MakeWithTech channel. (makewithtech.com)
** MakeWithTech and the MakeWithTech videos are Copyright Cogitations, LLC. (cogitations.com)
** Equipment used in the MakeWithTech videos has the potential to cause injury if misused. Use all equipment and tools at your own risk and follow all manufacturer's safety recommendations.
** Cogitations, LLC licenses all music used in the MakeWithTech videos from Epidemic Sound. Additionally, cogitations, LLC uses only authorized or open source clip art and third-party images. Images and videos used in product reviews and tutorials are from the original product (software or hardware) manufacturer's site.
** We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites. - Jak na to + styl
One cool thing to experiment with in vase mode - "Fuzzy Skin". It's under "Experimental". It adds a random jitter to the outer layer of the model, with vase mode this would be the only layer. It adds a degree of stiffness to a smooth surface, and you can adjust the degree of jitter. I had to print some eggs in vase mode, and making the skins fuzzy made them look more like real eggs (other than they were 7 or 8 inches tall and all sorts of weird colors).
Irv, thank you for explaining these concepts in easy to understand methods. I'm just getting started with my printer and your content has been invaluable!
Thanks for another great video.
Thank you so much for this knowledge... I will be looking forward for more new videos!
Good analysis. Each technique has its place depending on the project needs. I also like multiple walls since they seem to be much stronger. I'm printing a Christmas Story Leg Lamp using 4 walls and no infill. It is almost 400 mm tall and needs to be strong. I'll post on the forum
thank you again, very informative!
Really glad to have found this channel. Have learned quite a but since going down the rabbit hole of 3D printing.
That being said, for the love of God help me with my Ender 5 plus!
Thank you for the videos!
Useful info for me. Thank you.
Fantastic tip for creating a better vase mode!
Thanks
Very useful, 👍
Great video, but increasing line width is not over-extrusion. Over-extrusion when there is too much filament extruded for the desired dimension; that is controlled with the flow setting(s) in Cura. Increasing line width will make a stronger print (like using a bigger nozzle) while increasing flow will make a vase more likely to be water tight.
thank you sir
very helpful in printing vase like objects more strongly by printing with no infill and 3 wall layers etc.
My ender 3 kept pausing on vase mode and it was driving me nuts. Thanks for your explanation
Spiral mode is way, way more than 10% faster. E.g., I just made a cylinder, 60x60x100 mm, with 3 bottom layers. With spiral mode it's 1h8m, and with 3 perimeters it's 2h45m. (No other difference. No top, no infill.)
If at all possible I prefer spiral mode, with a 0.6 mm nozzle, pushing 1.0-1.1 mm wide lines. Or if I'm too lazy to swap the nozzles I'm using a 0.4 mm nozzle with 0.8 mm thickness.
If I need it to be watertight I spray a few layers of clear lacquer. It works, although it's a bit tricky to spray into an enclosed shape, so do use close-fitted safety glasses (or swimming glasses 😅) and N95 (or preferably better) breathing filter, because it's gonna swoosh back up in your direction.
There’s a work around to turn off the resume print mode with adding adding a line at the end of your starting g code. Add a M413 S0 ; as your last line and it will disable resume mode in Marlin.
Thanks for the video/help. I was working on a vacuum hose adapter in Fusion 360 and having a heck of a time hollowing out the three sections ("Shell" would only work on one section). Watched your video, set up Cura with no top, no bottom, and 1.2mm walls (which is what I designed to, anyways). You sir, are a great help (I subscribed a while back for reasons just like this).
Looking forward to your review of the Ender 3 S1 Pro when the time comes...
10:27 - if you just increase line width does it automatically extrude more filament or you have to change it too?
When I changed my thickness from 0.4 to 0.6 - overall lines, walls, top, bottom changed to 0.6 automatically, but the flow didn't change at all. It just doesn't show or we have to do something?
Thank you i came looking for something I did wrong my Ender 3 max did the same thing with the weave patern.
Off topic but can anyone tell how get that play slider at the bottom of the screen, that shows the hotend travel. Is it a in the plugins? Thanks in advance.
Sounds like good ideas. Right now I'm printing my first spiralised object. IT will be used as wargaming terrain so I suppose that 0.4mm thickness will be to thin. I will try it with 2 or 3 perimeters. :)
How can I do the "favorite method" on latest cura? I can't make cura draw the exactt number of walls tweaking on the "Walls" settings
Can you give me the adjustment in cura for using the ender 6 inspirallazed mode,because now it!s not possible to do. Stepping bug
Rgrds Theo
There is a setting in cura that helps reduce seams and that is ti tell the slicer to print outer walls first. (this also helps reduce stringing)
You are correct. Thanks for sharing.
Hmm... I get more stringing when I print the outer wall first.. If it's the retraction that's reducing the seam for you then maybe you'd be interested in the "retract before outer wall" setting?
What about the bottom? On the last technique how do you make sure the bottom is water tight?
Irv,
I cant contact you directly but I recall that you’re big into vases. I just came from Amsterdam and saw a vase in the Rijks museum there called a “Pyramid Vase”. Have you seen these before and attempted ? I bought two similar pieces but the one that stuck out is about 3’ tall and is beyond exquisite. Please let me know if you’ve run across a stl for one
💕👌👍
Hi how do I get hold of the file for that vase?
I'm curious about why the single perimeter spiral mode is likely to leak. Do you sometimes get tiny bubbles in the extruded pla that allows water through?
I also wonder if there's some kind of spray coating you could use on the inside to provide a seal.
Yeah, I spray my vases with a couple layers of clear lacquer, which makes them water-tight.
3D prints will often leak because the layer to layer adhesion isn't perfect. In the case of vase mode the problem is so much worse because there is only one really thin wall.
@@iskandartaib I see. Mine usually leak at the very bottom, because my bottom layers have some tiny gaps in corners.
But if there's a problem with layer adhesion then fortunately there's easy fixes. You could increase the temperature (nozzle and/or enclosure), decrease the speed, increase the line width, decrease layer height, ...
@@marcus3d Yeah, the bottom is also usually one layer. Yes, you can do all of those things to try to get a watertight vase - another one is increasing the flow, and if the bottom is leaking, increasing the initial layer height without actually increasing the physical initial layer height. Not really sure if it's really worth doing all this.. I figure if you actually want functional vases it would be best just to NOT use vase mode and print a multi-wall, multi-floored object.
I print the three wall version all the time
I've never heard it called a hamburger menu but I like it and I'm going to use it.
Yeah, I thought that was interesting, too... 😁
Please send me and the green vase 3d model 🙏 thanks
Hi I wan to make a vase like that gold you have can you send me the 3d model please thanks
I would spill the beans on the layer change problem but naughty kids don't get Christmas presents
He's pretty honest I think he will.
@@NuttyforNissan I meant I will spill the beans I know what the problem is and how to solve it.
@@TommiHonkonen What's the problem? Or has he made a video about it since this? I can't seem to find him talking about it after this video but maybe I just missed it.
You need to look at STL meshes. They are not solid objects. The slicer makes them solid.
Well, the polygons have an inside and an outside, so sans errors I'd call an enclosed object with all its polygons facing outwards a solid.
In summary: (1) use vase mode, (2) use thicker line width setting, (3) use a thicker nozzle and (4) don't use vase mode, think about seams. Reading this comment saves you about 17 minutes ;)