Getting My Cheap ATV Running: Yamaha YFB250 Timberwolf ATV Project Part 2
Vložit
- čas přidán 26. 07. 2018
- Update: Hey guys subscribe to my Rumble account! I will have much more mustang, motorcycle, ATV and more content there! Search for @jpsgarage and look for my mustang! I will also be talking about my awesome experiences working for an automotive startup company as an engineer fresh out of college and giving advice on how to land a similar job! Don't miss out! I chose to switch because it is a free video streaming site without 30 second back-to back ads and the ability to listen to videos with your phone locked!
Update: Part 3 coming May 2019!!
Another week of working on the Timberwolf project. Finally got it running, stay tuned to see it in action!
Update video: • Yamaha YFB250 Timberwo... - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Welder tip cleaner is what we use just trying to help not saying it's the rite way but it's how we do it. Great vids as always keep up the great work
For cleaning the plastics?
@@jpsgarage I think he's talking about the carb jet
Those damn stators. They are so hard to diagnose. had a spark issue on my atv and i spend hundreds on solenoids, cdi box, coil, and fuses and i was stumped. last ditch effort, i checked the stator and flywheel and the stator magnets were just loose in the casing.
Electrical issues are the worst.
I just picked up a 98 timberwolf 250 4x4 off my friend who has a timberwolf 250 2wd been sitting for a few years gunna start work on it tomorrow only paid 100 bucks for it!
Nice!
Do a video
Nice video! So I have a question about my 2000 bear tracker atv. I believe it's the same motor as your timberwolf. It's stuck in 3rd gear. Can't put it back down to neutral to start it. Any ideas? I'm guessing it's something in the shift linkage.
Yeh sounds like a bent shift fork to me or something in linkage
Hey I just bought a ‘96 yfb 250 Timberwolf and I took it off-roading once and came back and the gear shifter was super tight like it’s a stuggle to kick it up into first. I was wondering if you’ve ever seen this problem or can help me out at all?
My first Timberwolf I had to clean the carb twice and run seafoam through it for a few tanks. I also use 93 octane gas because it seems to run better and I heard from an old timer that if you’re gonna run ethanol gas best be 93 so that’s what’ve been doing mine runs perfect now. Lemme know if you need any help maybe we can figure it out if I can’t myself
Thanks! I'm about to try SeaFoam because I noticed that there is a bunch of carbon buildup in the engine.
What did you have to do to the carb at the end of the video
I'm really interested in this video series! Thanks for sharing your work.
I have a 97 YFB250 that I need some help with a couple of items. Mine isn't running at the moment and has been sitting up for a while so I am doing a full renovation.
One item is to find the location of all of the fuses. I want to replace all of them regardless of whether they are still good or not. I know where a couple of them are but probably not all of them.
Second, I have been told there is a kill switch wire below or behind the motor which must be connected in order for the machine to crank and run.. Where is that located and where does it connect?
Any help on these two things are greatly appreciated.
Also, for the benefit of those trying to clean the plastics, here's what I did. I wanted to do a camo paint job on my plastics which were originally bright red. I cleaned the plastics well first, then used a "cat" sander to being a process of working off the shiny upper coating of the plastics. I started with 80 grit sandpaper just to get the surface stripped off quickly. I followed the first sanding up with a couple higher grit passes. I did not want the surface extremely smooth as I wanted the camo paint to be able to adhere well.
Getting into the finely checkered areas was a really pain in the butt. I used a dremel tool in a lot of places or did some hand sanding. Looking back, some type of sandblasting probably would have been better.
While my plastics were not punctured or broken, some might want to apply a plastics filler to fill in any small punctures or cracks. Obviously, some situations may not be easy to repair if there is major damage to the plastics. It's not too hard to get replacement plastics from parts bikes.
After preparing the surface to be able to take a new paint coating, I applied a high fill grey automotive primer that is suitable for plastics. I wet sanded the primer after it dried by hand using a fine grit sandpaper. The high fill primer helps fill in smaller imperfections like scratches and makes for a smoother surface. It may take more than one sanding to get a good, smooth primed surface.
Next, I applied a based coat of automotive spray paint to the plastics. For a camo paint job, the base coat defines the major color of the plastics. I used olive drab green but you can also get nice results from desert sand as the base coat. This base coat will need to be wet sanded after it dries using progressively higher grits of sandpaper. You may need to do two or three light sandings. Notice the key word is light. Heavy sanding will strip away the paint.
If you simply wanted a solid color set of plastics, the only thing left to do is lay down one or two additional coats of paint and wet sand between each coat. For a camo job, you will likely want to use two or three additional colors such as grey, black, and tan to go over the olive drab. Each color is applied using stencils or materials that produce various camo shaped patterns. Each color must be allowed to fully dry and get its own wet sanding. These camo colors are flat paints without any level of gloss at all. So the end look is a typical flat, non-reflective camo pattern.
You have two choices next. One is to apply a clear coat that is non-glossy (flat). You will want to apply at least two, if not more, clear coats as this is what helps protect the underlying paint job from scratches and abrasions. The other choices, which some people like, is to apply a semi-glossy or even a glossy clear coat. The clear coat paint is also standard automotive paint. All of the paints can be purchased in rattle cans or you can step up to a spray system if you have access to one.
The point of all this isn't to urge people to paint their machines in camo. It's to say that efforts to restore the original appearance of the factory stock plastics may not give the results desired, particularly if the plastics have had lots of UV damage over time. All is not lost however as the plastics can be repainted. It's a lot of work, but the results can be very nice.
One word of caution. The reason the factory plastics are colored completely through is that ATV's are subjected to all sorts of abuse when riding off road. Scratches, chips, dents, and such are going to happen. Once you paint them, no matter how well they are protected by outer clear coats, at some point the paint may get damaged. Any such damage will then expose the underlying original plastics color. Painting a camo pattern however greatly reduces that issue, as when a scratch exposes the red color of my plastics all I have to do is touch up the scratch with one of the camo colors and some additional clear coat. With camo, a streak of a color used as a touch up just blends right in with the camo pattern and the touch up is undetectable.
I did some black out painting on various other parts, such as the rims, and the end results looks pretty awesome if you are into a hunting style ATV.
Hey man, that's awesome hearing that other people are working on these, I'm a big fan of the Timberwolf at this point. Super simple and fun to work on.
So first of all, your question about the fuses. As far as I know, the only fuse is under the seat connected to the battery terminals. If you replace the fuses, I would also replace the starter relay while you're at it. I ended up replacing my starter relay, CDI,
Second of all, I think the part you are referring to is the neutral safety switch, it's the wire that connects into the copper fitting. It is around where the shifter comes out of the case. I have never messed with it personally.
Thanks for the advice on restoring plastics, I will probably be finishing them in the final project video. Ive already worked on them with razor blades and sandpaper as you can see, they still show some fade and sun damage.
I also did some blacking out of the exposed metal components which were corroded. So far I have done the rack, bumpers, foot pegs, etc. When I am home from college for winter break I might be painting the wheels.
Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment! I hope my advice helped.
I appreciate your assistance. It may be the neutral safety switch wire that people say will kill the motor if it gets disconnected. I'm assuming the wire must run from the neutral position on the key switch down to the ignition coil maybe? I'm guessing the wire needs to be connected to complete a circuit so that the electricity will flow and the coil will fire, thus if that wire gets cut, broken, or pulled out, it is said to kill the motor or keep it from starting. Someone told me to check to be sure there was continuity through that wire because that could keep the engine from starting if it isn't. Just was curious as to what your experience might be with something like that.
I already replaced the starter relay and the CDI. Haven't replaced the rectifier but I might because I like this ATV and want to restore it back to like new condition. It's a very handy sized ATV for running around on my 20 acre farm.
I'm inspired by your results on your Timberwolf. You made it look pretty easy!
Nice work! I have the same ATV, I was wondering If you could change the system to start it manually with a pull start rope? I have seen other ATV´s of the same model that has this system and don´t know if it´s able to make an adaptation.
Its funny that you ask that question because I was thinking about doing the exact same thing. From my research, it appears that it is possible. You will have to buy both the pull starter assembly and the part that bolts onto the shaft.
@@jpsgarage Yea because I think it´s easier starting it that way when something is not working well, I´ll make more research and let you know if it worked for me, thank´s
Let me know what y'all come up with🇺🇲👍
@@lancebown4498 I thought the shaft is different on pull rope type.i tried changing mine. Wouldn't fit. Did yours fit?
Hey. Great job. Any idea where the chassis number is on the timberwolfs?....I can’t find one on mine
Bottom frame...behind left front tire
Just bought one think it's a 96 fixer upper. Hunting rig. What size tires are on yours.
Don't go over a 24"
Hey man I’m trying to figure out what’s wrong with mine it’s a 1992 Timberwolf my netruel light won’t come on so my quad won’t start every once and awhile if ya turn the key the light will
Come on then shit off when trying to start
it's the key switch mine is tricky too. I gotta wiggle it until its just right then start the quad.
Try cutting out the connector. Splice the wires, and heat shrink.
Lots of times the wires get loose in the connector.
I changed "everything" on mine... Only to learn I didn't actually have it shifted to neutral 🤦
When you removed the cover for the stator did oil come out or no?
The stator is oil cooled and the engine oil runs inside of the cover. Don't worry about it, it's normal.
what are the 2 red wires hanging on the exhaust ?
That's probably the red wire that runs into the battery box, has a 30 amp fuse in it.
JP what are the tire sizes please
Front tire is a Dunlop AT22X7-10 KT701, Rears are Dunlop AT 22X10-10
@@jpsgarage Thanks very much for your help
@@billylester7901 mine has 23x8x10 front
22x10x10 rear
I've got a 1999 timber wolf it wont pull it's self
Do you mean your electric starter won't work? If so, check out part 5 where I rebuild the electric starter motor!
@@jpsgarage no it wont pull its self when you put it in gear
@@keithonan3811 pull the rear axel.
Check your splines inside rear differential.
Does it make a popping sound?
So....