What went wrong? Chrysler 3.5 Engine Tear Down
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- čas přidán 6. 06. 2016
- In this video, I completely disassemble the engine out of a 2000 Chrysler 300m. The engine had a bad knocking in the bottom end. In this video we findout why!
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![Cylinder Heads Replacement-Part 2 [2000 Chrysler 300M]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/e6S_GqWZ89g/mqdefault.jpg)
![Cylinder Heads Replacement-Part 2 [2000 Chrysler 300M]](/img/tr.png)
I'm a master of 47 years,trans and engines were my specialty,this engine is made good,i can see by watching your video that the 3.2 and 3.5 has a lot of superior design,the bearings were into the copper,that means that the guy driving the car changed oil,never,oil is a flush,it always has been,this engine looked good on the bores and pistons,id' of sent the crank out had it turned,KING BEARING OUT OF ISRAEL is now making main and rod bearings for a 0.080 cut,that means that you never weld these flimsy cranks just turn them down till they are out of spec,they are also ohc hemi engines,when cutting the cranks on these small engines,tighten the lower end up to 0.0017 on mains and rods,tight means they will not hammer,the hammering is what speeds up the show of copper,i'd change oil religiously every 3500 miles and throw on a lot of filters,like one every 2000 then add a quart,the belts should be changed every 80k to 125k depending on how you stay off the throttle,i really enjoyed your video,first one to show complete teardown,you learn it all on teardown
I work on these motors and your teardown video was very informative. For people who are having a engine knock and are wondering where the problem is coming from, your video gives people a look where the problem is. Thank you for taking the time to this the video.
can the crankshaft be sanded smooth and new bearings installed
There is also 3 rubber orings that need to be changed on the back of timing cover when you do the timing belt..it is very critical to change it
RAHRAH807 man that just sounds like an ass though he’s lucky he’s touching this motor and not me haha this shut would be labor intensive 😂😂😂
To everyone with the negative comments and\or claiming the engine is toast, read "strattuner"'s comment. He has 47 years of experience with engines & transmissions. This engine can easily be rebuilt since 95% of the damage was in the bearings, which is exactly why the bearings are built of a softer material. A bit of machining, new bearings & a re-ring kit is about all that is needed to get this engine operational again. Maybe magna flux to check for cracks from the overheating as well, which is usually done with a hot tank cleaning & boring/honing. But to each his own. I gave my son a 2001 300m with this engine & it's at about 245,000 miles now & still plenty of life left in it. Never had anything other than Mobile-1 oil in it. I'm a big fan of the 300's, way ahead of their time. Good job on the teardown Matt & keep up the good work. Always fun to see exactly what caused a failure.
Rule #1 with these engines. When it comes time to change the timing belt put a fresh water pump in. You're already there anyway.
Working on an engine at home in the garage. Get a cheap blow molded kiddis pool. Make a riser from some lumber and you've got a catch pan.
In the 90s Chrysler proped a sport racing spec class to the SCCA and IMSA (?) That used the 3.5 drive train out of the Intrepid. If somebody's building a kit car the engine and transaxle would make a nice package. Even stock in a light chassis you'd have a decent power to weight ratio.
To my knowledge these engines never got a lot of love (if any) in the tuner market. The bottom end is pretty strong. 4 main bolts with two cross bolts. Structural windage tray and oil pan. One piece front and rear seals.
i heard he found out later the car just needed gas
He sounds like the guy who would use that as an excuse for it blowing up oh why did my car blow up haha not enough gas I should have hit up a gas station 😂😂😂
Thanks Matt, I can see your zeal there. Thanks for the video. After being rebuilt, the baby will run perfect again. Love the Chrysler....
My 99 Chrysler 300m has a 3.5 original motor . Just rolled over 400,000 miles . It's called regular maintenance . If your failed it on you .
I have just had a 3.5 in a 300C fail without warning at 230,000km! it is serviced every 15,000km as per manufacturer with top shelf 5W30 Syn. What a lump of expensive junk!!
Don't follow those crazy recommended intervals. Go under those intervals. That's hippy dippy environmentalists coming up with that crap. I have a hated 5.4 Ford Triton with 206k miles on it. Rotella synthetic every 5k miles which would be like 7 or 8k km. Engine runs fine. Biggest killer of the triton is gunky oil.
Can't wait to watch this tonight! This should be a part of an MBA course. You should do the 2.7 nightmare too. Maybe another title for this would be, " How to destroy your reputation in business by outsourcing all the talent".
That engine was run without oil. Every bearing is toast. That one piston was slapping a valve because of extreme clearance on that one rod bearing.
My 04 M Special (K motor) when I pulled it at 120k. For a fact, I ran it hot twice, months apart, though gauge never actually made it to the H (no telling as there was no coolant touching sending unit for it to read). Hint for me was a slight rod knock that was only present on the first start after oil change, which would then go away after a a few rotations of the engine. Ran this way on full syn oil for 30k until it eventually locked. Leave it 5 min and you could run it again. My motor looked worse than yours. Entire bottom end and front of left head/rocker asm were red/brown colored. All bearings in bottom wiped. Had to pry crank to free. Several cam lobes were scored.
In the end, swapped with 60k used motor from standard M (G motor).
Great coverage. Lots of info!
I thought for a moment that you were trying for a rebuild, but after seeing what was left of it, I agree, that short block is toast. There is not a lot of room for machining on those blocks, so another short block would be the only fix. I haven't seen 1 wipe out bearings that bad that still ran and had oil pressure. Hard to say exactly what happened when, but it seems that multiple overheating, plus coolant in the oil, wiped out the bearings, which caused lower oil pressure, and created a domino effect. Hope you made some dough off the scrap :)
This a reminder to change your oil religiously, those people who say you can wait 10,000 miles are nuts, oil is cheaper than a new engine, I do mine every 3 to 4k, I have 284,000 on my 3.8 engine in my lesabre with no problems, you can barley hear the engine running.
I think you could have extended your oil change interval out to like 20,000 and every three years because that motor on the bottom and looked really good
I reused the mls head gaskets on my buds 01 rt intrepid.it had bent valves from a timing belt failure.It has a additional 40 or so k no problems
Let me guess. He didn't change it when he should have
The bearings are actually supported to have a groove so it is lubricated all the way around
Looks like your oil filter did a good job of collecting the swarf etc. Usually a bad engine would have metal shavings inside the shells. I think you may get away with a crank grind and oversized shells...as you know probably not worth it.
thank you I live in Massachusetts I don't know where you live but I am looking for a mechanic I'm going to have to get the timing belt and all that stuff done but I thoroughly enjoy your videos and just subscribed thank you for your time you answered my question I really appreciate it
No prob! Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video. Unless my hearing aids missed it, did you mention how many miles were on this engine?
Its honestly looking like there was some type of grit in your oil at some point. Bad filter for sure. Good and informative video ty. I'm looking to rebuild one of these for my magnum soon.
I missed why you had to scrap the block. I didn't see where any bearings spun in the block, which would be the only damage there. I didn't see any scored cylinders. You can usually have cylinders honed to 30 mil over and fit new pistons. If the crank was damaged, you can have it ground down a bit and use thicker oversized bearings. The factory even did that occasionally back in the 1960's during engine production. They would mark such blocks with a Maltese Cross or such.
is it not odd that the pistons popped right out past the cylinder ridge??
Thank you for this video.
Those head gaskets are graphite coated and that's the stuff that transfers to the head. It makes a great seal, especially on pitted heads but its tough to change out. Fel-pro has a different style coating, more of a rubber clad.
That was a really cool video!
I'm sorry if this sounds stupid, but does this tear down walk through also work for the 97 3.5? I just bought a 1997 eagle vision TSI and instantly fell in love with it. I'm really wanting to tear it down and rebuild it. Thanks for the informative video!
Didn’t watch your original videos but sounds like the OE gasket was a MLS gasket. It’s all metal and doesn’t leave a mess behind like the graphite gasket you used.
Timing gear🙂 and those spark plugs look new although the gap looks a bit big.
Also on the gasket, there's a specific torque sequence to follow on the heads. If you torque with no sequence you could warp the head causing a poor seal.
antifreeze leak into oil will destroy bearings. The damage was on all the bearings so likely from a slow leak.
Could be. Too late to know now!
At 14:00 , looks like the bearing swallowed something it should not have . In addition to wear down to the copper . The rest of them were pretty much as bad or worse .
Looking at the oil on the rods and pistons , the oil did not look that great . Do not know if that was a factor ?
Very educational video .
Wyr
God bless
Kick ass teardown vid, Matt! Wow those bearings were HAMMERED huh? Looks like the ones further downstream from the oil pump really got beat up bad lol... So in this case, that glitch we saw on the crank sensor may actually have been physical movement from the bearing slop! Might as well throw a clean low-mileage engine back in and ship it :)
Ah that makes sense! I remember you suggesting that and after seeing these bearings, I honestly think that is a definite possibility. Next time I am at the shop I will be opening up the oil pump to see what it looks like. As of next week, what is left of the car will be sold for scrap. Movin' on!
Un my 300m especial edition i got a knock sound, in the mechanical workshop, told me that is a problem with the tappets, but now i think is the sale problem as yours.
So, fix that how much should cost? Its very expensive?
If you dont wanna make prices público xD please send me a private message
+Random Person deam, well thanks bro :D
motoYam82
May have been coolant in oil. Low oil pressure. Or lack of routine maintenance.
where can you get the connecting rod bolts
no oil flow to the bearings looks like. fracked the crank and egged the rods. new rods/piston assemblies and turned crank would be a good idea. hi volume hi pressure oil pump is also recommended.
HI ARE YOU SWAPPING WITH STANG BEARING OR UNDERSIZE? THANK YOU
Block is going to Junkyard, Crankshaft can be use in an Alternative Block if found?
I got 786 405 miles from the same engine.
Wow!!!
Looks like a well built motor in terms of 4v valve-train, belt timing, and main caps.
The bottom end on these is pretty much standard for how modern aluminum blocks are made. The crank is a forged piece. Rods are powdered metal like every one else uses but I think iirc the rods after the sintering presses were forged. In terms of a 4 valve head it is not the standard way a 4 valve head is made. One thing I do not like on these engines is the cams run in the aluminum with no bearings. Everything on this engine with the exception of the sheet metal timing belt cover is either sand cast or diecast aluminum. The hlock is a high silicon aluminum alloy for strength.
Those were powerful engines. My mom had a 95 intrepid and it had some serious balls for what it was.
Quick question is there a oil galley plug on the oil pump by chance
Would you be able to push that engine on that mount up a smooth driveway slope
Can I follow this steps if I want to tear down a 3.6 out of a 2012 charger?
Poor maintenance is the problem...
why not rebuild the block ?
I worked on cylinder heads for a looong time. different gaskets work different. the residue is normal for a lot of them.
awesome video, hope to see a rebuild video soon. that would be cool
I don't think a rebuild would make sense in any way. That engine had huge amounts of metal put through it and the cost of restoring that crankshaft (if that is doable at all, it looked really bad) will most likely exceed the cost for a good low mileage replacement engine. To me it looks like that baby got run low on oil once, and as soon as you had that metal to metal contact somewhere, there's no stopping the demise. And the one piston looked like there was some metal pieces or even the valves that hit the top, maybe damage from a jumped timing belt or so...
Maybe it wouldn't make financial sense, but MattsMotorz has this channel to make videos and get views. Any CZcamsr worth his subs should rebuild the motor and show why people should watch his vids and subscribe.
I think you mistake Matt for an actual full time video producer. He films the stuff he gets his hands on. Nothing more. He is actually a student from what I understood in the diagnostic video.
Not even close to being worth a rebuild. Just the machine work alone will cost more than a good engine. You would need an align bore to clean up the bearing saddles from the spun mains, regrind the crank, resize the rods, bore each cylinder at least .010 over. At the shop I normally use that alone will kill over $600.00
$ 400.00 for the rods/mains and ring/pistons
$ 200.00 for an oil pump
$ 175.00 for the timing kit
So figure about $1,500.00 all in. For a car that is 16 years old and very rotted. OR he could go to a you pull it yard and take home a complete engine for under $300.00 OR he can have one setting on the pad for pick-up in Harrisburg or for $300.00
These days, unless it is a very special engine or one that you are building for a purpose it just doesn't make sense to do a full rebuild. Especially on a grocery getter that's seen better days.
Yes Markus is right. I do this stuff in my spare time and don't have the funds for a rebuild. Also Blazer is spot on about it most certainly not being worth it (good break down!).
Now that being said, I would love to be able to do a rebuild just for the experience and the videos, but it just isn't in the cards.
Nice tear down. Looks like engine was run low on oil or just didn't have oil changed regularly.
Nice big job good luck?
bearings look like lack of lubrication how many miles?
I find out that the 2000 Concord's , 300M's and the LHS have no re-sale value. I just bought a 2001 LHS for $300.. Will it take me from Salt Lake City to Orlando and back again? The LHS has 172,567 miles on it , please share your opinion. I leave on May 3rd and must be back in S.L.C. by May 14th !
Wish you lived around Philly and can help me rebuild my 3.5L 04 Pacifica! It should be fun!
I'm tearing into my 2004 Pacifica right now
educational and scary at the same time. You never really know Whats going on in your block.
How many miles on that engine? What was your oil pressure?
Interesting video, the culprit is of course the damaged main bearing, the question is how did such damage occur to the main bearing in the first place?
Excessive milage between oil changes. Add in possible low oil levels. Also possible oil sludge in the main bearing oil galley port.
How many miles on this engine?
70% of these comments are people condescendingly explaining how he’s doing everything wrong
The rod bearing are all totally wiped out. Why?
How many miles?
what is the mileage of the motor?
What did u do with the car?
can it be fixed?
I have a 09 Dodge Challenger with the 3.5 liter ho is that a good motor so far I've only had it for 3 months so I really don't know a whole lot about it I don't know if that motor is the same as what I have just curious of your thoughts on that motor I am not drag racing it so I don't pretend it is something that it's not like a SRT so no burnouts or anything like that just a daily driver cruising I have the 3.6 in the 2013 Town and Country I know it seems like that's a better engine but just hopefully it's not a stupid question but with the proper maintenance and everything else is it a good motor your opinion
The engine in this video is the 3.5 high output, so yes it is the same motor. The thing about this motor is, it does have some pattern failures that are quite annoying, but I would say it is still pretty good and produces quite an impressive amount of power for being naturally aspirated.
I have a 3.5 liter dodge. I have 172.k miles. I run 10w40 Quaker State . I never race the engine, easy accel onto highway. No stomping onto the accelerator. But the clock spring is not working the best. Engine light on and off about every 12 starts.
Antifreeze in the oil. This is all the result of the overheating episodes. The oil pump may have failed but likely it was clogged up by the debris from the bearings making a bad situation much worse.
Yep. One of the items you have to watch for on the GM engines that have intake gasket issues. Antifreeze destroys the babbitt layer on the bearing and things rapidly go south.. If you are REAL lucky and catch it when it first starts you might be able to flush the crap out of the system and save them but that doesn't happen much.
that is possible, but it would have to have been much earlier in its life, because coolant mixed with oil makes a chocolate shake concoction, which was not evident in the teardown video
Could replace the crank and bearings to fix this issue? Think my car did the same thing.
was wondering the same thing. And what was the reason those main bearings failed?
so what caused the bearings to fail?.. lack of oiling coolant in the oil..etc ?
Not maintaining the engine
All that damage because the overheating and the oil pump go bad
If a motor comes with a metal gasket anywhere or a MLS head gasket from the factory never replace it with that horrible graphite style gasket. It's cheap BS just like you suspected. Not only do you get the mess, it does not maintain the clamp load in all areas like the MLS style and will lead to leaks and loose bolts in the long term. The only benefit to the graphite style is that you can get away with more surface imperfections. Take the time to prep the surface properly and use a better gasket. All metal gaskets require a better surface finish. Such a waste of labor in the long run with cheap gaskets.
Also that motor was run low on oil or had oil pump problems. I would guess low oil level. Thing is dry as hell in many places
This happens when you don't use a micrometer to check the crank diameter before a rebuild.
Someone had this crankshaft turned .010 -.030" to clean up gouges/scratches/imperfections on the throws, and maybe the mains also. Then someone else used "standard" bearings..
Probably rods are weakened, crank is trashed(?), and pistons weakened also.KAPUT!
Hi there Matt! I have two question about your Chrysler 300m. How many miles did it have on it when the motor started knocking. The other is I have a bumping noise when I run over bumps. I seen your video about the tie rod and I have replaced them a while back my question is what else could it be. I have not replace the struts yet but i was told it was the rack pinion, sway bar. But It seem like they were guessing. and hell I can do that myself. Just want to see if you had the same issue with your 300. I have an 2002 300m. How is that ryboi impact wrench is it worth the money. I seen it in your engine tear down video. Thinking about buying one.
It had about 140,000 miles.
Yes, many time it is the strut mounts that knock. The best thing to do is get under there and start moving things around to see if there is play.
I love it. I got it as a gift about 4 years ago and it has served me well.
Thanks for your feed back!!
I have a 2006 3.5 L Chrysler 300 engine which was hydro locked and has been sitting. What is the most likely thing I would have to try and fix?
WD 40
Matt, how many miles on the 3.5 before this failure?
I have 245.000 I changed o2 sensors(all 4) coil packs (all 6) & plugs a month ago also water pump / timing belt 2 year ago, & it runs great! I think it will go another 100.000 miles! Use Mobile 1 full synthetic oil. I drove the car for 7 year & didn't do anything but brakes & tires. The car is a 2009 Chrysler 300 touring it still looks new. Keep your eye on the oil. It has a Mercedes transmission. I;ve had NO PROBLEM with it
@@dwaynejones987 I got a 2010 300 w/245k....just did tuneup and belt..runs great(I am religious on the oil
Can you send me this engine video actually?
Put a half a quart of non detergent transmission fluid in it drive it about 50 miles when you tear the motor down it will be clean as a whistle I use it in all of my vehicles before every oil change
I've been there 😁 nice
27:41 So what caused it? Oil pump failure? relief valve ? blocked pick up? lack of oil?
Bearing
Years ago I drove an Intrepid with a 3.3L that gave me 140,000 trouble free miles. I'd like to get another but heard the 3.5L suffers from too small oil passages and too small egr resulting in oil sludge/bad lubrication.
No, that was an issue with the 2.7L.
M G is correct. In fact the 2002+ 3.5L engines got rid of the EGR system.
The Old Adage "You Get What You Pay For" is usually correct with anything you buy.
Had a friend with a new product called Engine New, suppose to add metal to the worned parts, to improve compression which it did, but during a flood at work the custom ram air scoops sucked water into the Carb. and the engine stop in a puttle, even the Towl company could not get the rear wheels to move. Later during tear down the engine New product
reacted violently to water rusting the crank solid all the bearing needed to be cold chisseled from the block. one solid rust junk! Yea! Great Product?
I don't look at crank bearings every day either, but every one of them seems to be straw colored. When I made a bunch of knives a few years ago, I learned that it takes about 450 degrees to get steel to straw color, so that engine has been really, really hot. I believe they are supposed to run around 170-180. I believe you said something to Ivan about your girlfriend overheating it to failure three times, so I guess that explains the straw color.
Seems pristine until I open it oooooof 😂
He needs to be found new worlds hell no cap
classic big ends, was obvious from the engine noise, when it ran..
is it me or did the rocker arms look different colors on the 2 different banks.
the only 340 with oem mechanical (adjustable) rockers was 340-six pack
What a wrecked bottom-end!
From what i can see it would appear that you have an OIL FALURE, or a lack of oil
oil pump failed?
somebody didn't correctly torque down the bottom end on last rebuild ;)
I think that's what happens when you run your motor out of oil and overheat it cool video
The result of driving it like you stole it lol
i would use multi layer steel head gaskets....
Those bearings are absolutely gone
Clear and simple....oil starvation. The block needs to be hot tanked and all oil passages painstakingly cleaned front-to-back and top-to-bottom....
show how to properly time the 3.5L engine
I do. It is in one of the videos of the head gasket job
Best way is rebuilt the engine is a lot money but you have a brand new engine
An awesome video on how NOT to dismantle an engine!
Mark the rods to the caps. The rods in production were machined in one piece until about two thirds of the way through. Then the rods were notched on each side and the rod cracked. Both halves wire brushed and put back together. The micro fracture planes will provide very positive rod to cap alignment. After the cracking operation the rod would then be finish bored, the small end bushing pressed in and honed. There should also be an oil squirter hole in the rod for piston cooling. Worked in the Tool Room of one of the two plants that built 3.5s
If you will put about a half a quart of laundry detergent transmission fluid and the oil and drive it normally for about 50 miles and then drain the oil when you go to tear the motor down it will be clean as a whistle I do it before every oil change on all my vehicles
WHERE do you buy laundry detergent transmission fluid, is it near the Tide at wallmart
Un my 300m especial edition i got a knock sound, in the mechanical workshop, told me that is a problem with the tappets, but now i think is the sale problem as yours.So, fix that how much should cost? Its very expensive?If you dont wanna make prices público xD please send me a private message
the cost..... A SHITLOAD!!!
unhook those keys from your belt when you do major work like this
You're right, I should have! Bad habit.
Anybody on here know what all I would have to switch out to swap a 2.7 over to a 3.5 in a 07 dodge charger?
Did you ever find out?
should have check the oil pump sound like it ran out of oil pressure or did debris get into the system after first time it went down completely rekt
I will! If I find anything interesting I will give you guys an update. Damn I wish I did that on this video.
true but if you lose flow you lose pressure and just manly wanted to see if there was debris in the system or alot of wear in the oil pump
isn't there supposed to be a gasket between your water pump and block?
For this car there is only a big o-ring.
Derick Smith yup you’re right
You should never put in or take out bolts in a aluminum block with an impact.
The engine is toast already! Lol