hey thank you for your videos as always,but I find what you're doing here is more than helpful for the restoration and preservation of the classics.keep them coming good sir.
Thank you, Sir. I have had some requests for videos showing the actual work that I put into these motors to revive them. I thought I could cover a lot of that work with a series covering the tune-up process as I go through a motor that is, for the most part, in good mechanical condition but non-running. I plan to take these videos to the completion of this motor. Hopefully someone will find at least some of them helpful. Thanks for watching!
Dear old JohnnyRude this is just incredible good as I have just purchased a 1959 FD-13 AND I like the way you work ! I will watch with graditude and hope I learn on this . The one I got is kinda Scruffy....but I like it !
That's great to hear! Congratulations on your motor. Hopefully you find the videos helpful. Nothing wrong with a little scruffy. The scruffy ones are the ones I usually run. That way I don't worry about messing up my nice ones. LOL. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 This motor that I have has been converted to a fuel pump and the carb is a little different that the 5.5 motors I have worked on. Do you have any video's of a carb rebuild for this model ? I am asking because I sure would like to do it right the first. It does not hurt to ask and thank you for your reply.
@@rustyleighty1999 Your FD-13 carb is the same carb as the one on this '59 Fastwin minus the choke solenoid and slight differences in the knobs and needle linkages. The rebuild is the same procedure. Actually, other than being larger and some differences in the choke the rebuild process is the same as the 5.5 carb. If you have any trouble with it, I'll try to help.
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 Thank you Sir, I was assuming the carb rebuild would be similar and since I save every part, piece off every kit and anything and every nut screw washer off every motor. I got the right stuff to do the carb. The linkage is giving me a head scratch since I do not know how it really should be and if who ever was in here before me knew what they were doing. It just did not look to well put together and small washers on the base and clips. You know what I mean....? ? In the video I heard you mention Richard White concerning the locating ring and timing tool. Would that by any chance be the Richard that lives down Kendelville way ? I got my tools from him. Thanks again !
Generally, I'm not a fan of most of the HF stuff, but made one purchase that was a good one...I bought that 1/2" electric impact gun, $40, zips those flywheel nuts right off and great for using on the flywheel puller drive screw, but you still need the strap wrench/ring gear holder to properly retorque the flywheel nut. The OMC puller is a must for working on these engines, and is worth every penny of its purchase price...
Some HF stuff is total junk and other things are actually pretty good tools. I have a framing nailer I bought for $69, added the 2yr warranty to it for another 10 bucks which I never used. I built my entire shop inside my barn with it. My dad built his shop with it, and it had built 2 other people's decks. It's still going strong and ready for more. I agree, an impact is the ticket for removing the flywheel nut. I use it often in the summer when I work in the barn, but not often in the shop. I could since I have air in there. I just don't for some reason. Strap wrench and a torque wrench is still needed to properly torque the nut like you said. One of those electric impacts would be handy sometimes too. I may get one sometimes. Thanks for watching Don!
Question: The magneto cam that opens the points, is it pressed on? I removed it from my 1972 Mate 2 2202M and can't remember how I got it off. Putting it back together now and it's very loose on the shaft, vertically. It does have a pin that keeps it from spinning on the shaft but I don't know what holds it down. Thanks!
I bought mine from Crowley Marine several years ago. The price has gone up with everything else affected by inflation, unfortunately. Here is the link www.crowleymarine.com/parts/16323.cfm?gclid=CjwKCAjwnZaVBhA6EiwAVVyv9GBgMz2sunTeFIPPt9BVirLfB40AjzDQIvp9jfIKun7_Ru0bq1OsVBoC0ZAQAvD_BwE For an 18, you could likely get by with a good harmonic balancer puller with grade 8 bolts. Just be careful to get them all square when installing the puller. If you work on any number of OMC outboards, this puller is 100% worth the money. It's a wonderful tool. Thanks for watching and good luck with your motor.
Your local BRP Evinrude dealer has parts. I order many of mine from Marineengine.com since I don't have a dealer that is convenient for me. Good luck on your motor and thanks for watching!
Hello, I have a 1966 18hp fastwin that won’t stay running past starting fluid. Pulled the carb off it looks clean and rebuilt with nice gaskets. So moving on to the coils and points and stuff right? I know this video is about a 50s fastwin, am I going to be able to use this video series as my guide for working on my 66?
The '66 Fastwin is essentially the same motor minus the shape of the cowl. If your motor will run on starting fluid (not reccomended. It is much better to use a shot of fuel mix) but not on the fuel tank you have a fuel delivery problem. You may want to address the ignition later, but that is not keeping your motor from running if it is running on a shot of ether.
Old JohnnyRude got it, I’ll switch over to a spray bottle with fuel/oil. I guess I should be looking at the fuel pump then? There’s not even a fuel filter, I’ll go get an in-line one and install before the pump. Can the pump be rebuilt or is that something I should try to find new? Edit: thank you VERY much for replying, I’m already subscribed but you definitely have a new loyal follower.
Old JohnnyRude so is there a way to test the fuel pump, lol it’s $100 on marineengine.com... The motor I got doesn’t have a fuel filter on it, not the original glass bulb or even a aftermarket inline one. I wonder if I pull the fuel pump off maybe it just needs cleaning? The guy said the motor ran last year when he bought it, then he never used it and sold it to me a couple weeks ago. I know fuel is getting to the carb, because when I pulled it off the other day, fuel dumped out. I know that doesn’t mean it’s getting enough fuel or pressure tho. The carb looked clean and rebuilt already. I really appreciate your videos and any help you can offer, I am mechanically inclined and work on my own cars, but these old outboards are another world...lol my motor is 10+ years older than me
Old JohnnyRude if you have a minute, will this work? Looks like the updated evinrude one on marine engines .com? www.amazon.com/dp/B07F67TG6J/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07F67TG6J&pd_rd_w=s63Tg&pf_rd_p=48d372c1-f7e1-4b8b-9d02-4bd86f5158c5&pd_rd_wg=H3tm8&pf_rd_r=K6V8EAZQ12R3X8FDXVYC&pd_rd_r=418ba4de-741c-41d1-bee0-6ab408cd004d&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyRTZIVzNBMlRUQURLJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwOTc2ODM3ODNUMjMzWlZWTktGJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA2MjgwOTYzNk0wMEc3VzRZTUw4JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfZGV0YWlsJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
@@TheFrogfeeder It will fit and work. How long it works may be in question. The overseas aftermarket fuel pu.os do not have the best reputation for durability. I would opt for the OEM fuel pump instead. If you do get the aftermarket one, you may consider buying two so you can keep a spare with you.
Doesn’t the WD40 dry out the seal ? Do you have a remote mic. And could you stand on the other side of the motor so we can see your work better ? Just a suggestion. You have a good way of explaining things , keep it up !
Not too sure about WD40 drying out seals. I'll use fogging oil next time. That won't dry em out. I only have the mix on the camera and the outstanding acoustics of my shop what with the concrete floor, steel walls and ceiling.😎 I'm not sure I can see what I'm doing if I stand on the other side and work on the wrong side of the motor. 🤔 Thanks Dave! Sounds like advice someone may have given Chrysleroutboarddude on some of his videos.🤣 I'll see if my other camera is any better after the first few videos.
hey thank you for your videos as always,but I find what you're doing here is more than helpful for the restoration and preservation of the classics.keep them coming good sir.
Thank you, Sir. I have had some requests for videos showing the actual work that I put into these motors to revive them. I thought I could cover a lot of that work with a series covering the tune-up process as I go through a motor that is, for the most part, in good mechanical condition but non-running. I plan to take these videos to the completion of this motor. Hopefully someone will find at least some of them helpful. Thanks for watching!
Dear old JohnnyRude this is just incredible good as I have just purchased a 1959 FD-13 AND I like the way you work ! I will watch with graditude and hope I learn on this . The one I got is kinda Scruffy....but I like it !
That's great to hear! Congratulations on your motor. Hopefully you find the videos helpful. Nothing wrong with a little scruffy. The scruffy ones are the ones I usually run. That way I don't worry about messing up my nice ones. LOL. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 This motor that I have has been converted to a fuel pump and the carb is a little different that the 5.5 motors I have worked on. Do you have any video's of a carb rebuild for this model ? I am asking because I sure would like to do it right the first. It does not hurt to ask and thank you for your reply.
@@rustyleighty1999 Your FD-13 carb is the same carb as the one on this '59 Fastwin minus the choke solenoid and slight differences in the knobs and needle linkages. The rebuild is the same procedure. Actually, other than being larger and some differences in the choke the rebuild process is the same as the 5.5 carb. If you have any trouble with it, I'll try to help.
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 Thank you Sir, I was assuming the carb rebuild would be similar and since I save every part, piece off every kit and anything and every nut screw washer off every motor. I got the right stuff to do the carb. The linkage is giving me a head scratch since I do not know how it really should be and if who ever was in here before me knew what they were doing. It just did not look to well put together and small washers on the base and clips. You know what I mean....? ? In the video I heard you mention Richard White concerning the locating ring and timing tool. Would that by any chance be the Richard that lives down Kendelville way ? I got my tools from him. Thanks again !
Generally, I'm not a fan of most of the HF stuff, but made one purchase that was a good one...I bought that 1/2" electric impact gun, $40, zips those flywheel nuts right off and great for using on the flywheel puller drive screw, but you still need the strap wrench/ring gear holder to properly retorque the flywheel nut. The OMC puller is a must for working on these engines, and is worth every penny of its purchase price...
Some HF stuff is total junk and other things are actually pretty good tools. I have a framing nailer I bought for $69, added the 2yr warranty to it for another 10 bucks which I never used. I built my entire shop inside my barn with it. My dad built his shop with it, and it had built 2 other people's decks. It's still going strong and ready for more. I agree, an impact is the ticket for removing the flywheel nut. I use it often in the summer when I work in the barn, but not often in the shop. I could since I have air in there. I just don't for some reason. Strap wrench and a torque wrench is still needed to properly torque the nut like you said. One of those electric impacts would be handy sometimes too. I may get one sometimes. Thanks for watching Don!
Question: The magneto cam that opens the points, is it pressed on? I removed it from my 1972 Mate 2 2202M and can't remember how I got it off. Putting it back together now and it's very loose on the shaft, vertically. It does have a pin that keeps it from spinning on the shaft but I don't know what holds it down. Thanks!
very good the video how much you have left the light to the platinum
Thank you 😊
You're welcome and thanks for watching!
Thanks for doing this video! Is this pretty much the same for a 1980s Chrysler 15hp?
The flywheel removal is about the same. The ignition is a bit different on an 80s Chrysler but you get at the parts the same way. Thanks for watching!
Where do I get that flywheel puller? I have a 1959 18hp seahorse that I’m trying to rebuild
I bought mine from Crowley Marine several years ago. The price has gone up with everything else affected by inflation, unfortunately. Here is the link
www.crowleymarine.com/parts/16323.cfm?gclid=CjwKCAjwnZaVBhA6EiwAVVyv9GBgMz2sunTeFIPPt9BVirLfB40AjzDQIvp9jfIKun7_Ru0bq1OsVBoC0ZAQAvD_BwE
For an 18, you could likely get by with a good harmonic balancer puller with grade 8 bolts. Just be careful to get them all square when installing the puller. If you work on any number of OMC outboards, this puller is 100% worth the money. It's a wonderful tool. Thanks for watching and good luck with your motor.
Where do you get parts this outboard motor? I just got one haven't started it, needs gas tank rebuild..
Your local BRP Evinrude dealer has parts. I order many of mine from Marineengine.com since I don't have a dealer that is convenient for me. Good luck on your motor and thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 Thank you
@@ericangel1950 You're welcome.
Do you have to remove the points and coil to remove the magneto?
No, the magneto plate can be removed with the points, condensers, coils, and plug wires still attached if desired. Thanks for watching!
Hello, I have a 1966 18hp fastwin that won’t stay running past starting fluid. Pulled the carb off it looks clean and rebuilt with nice gaskets. So moving on to the coils and points and stuff right? I know this video is about a 50s fastwin, am I going to be able to use this video series as my guide for working on my 66?
The '66 Fastwin is essentially the same motor minus the shape of the cowl. If your motor will run on starting fluid (not reccomended. It is much better to use a shot of fuel mix) but not on the fuel tank you have a fuel delivery problem. You may want to address the ignition later, but that is not keeping your motor from running if it is running on a shot of ether.
Old JohnnyRude got it, I’ll switch over to a spray bottle with fuel/oil. I guess I should be looking at the fuel pump then? There’s not even a fuel filter, I’ll go get an in-line one and install before the pump. Can the pump be rebuilt or is that something I should try to find new?
Edit: thank you VERY much for replying, I’m already subscribed but you definitely have a new loyal follower.
Old JohnnyRude so is there a way to test the fuel pump, lol it’s $100 on marineengine.com...
The motor I got doesn’t have a fuel filter on it, not the original glass bulb or even a aftermarket inline one. I wonder if I pull the fuel pump off maybe it just needs cleaning?
The guy said the motor ran last year when he bought it, then he never used it and sold it to me a couple weeks ago.
I know fuel is getting to the carb, because when I pulled it off the other day, fuel dumped out. I know that doesn’t mean it’s getting enough fuel or pressure tho. The carb looked clean and rebuilt already.
I really appreciate your videos and any help you can offer, I am mechanically inclined and work on my own cars, but these old outboards are another world...lol my motor is 10+ years older than me
Old JohnnyRude if you have a minute, will this work? Looks like the updated evinrude one on marine engines .com?
www.amazon.com/dp/B07F67TG6J/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07F67TG6J&pd_rd_w=s63Tg&pf_rd_p=48d372c1-f7e1-4b8b-9d02-4bd86f5158c5&pd_rd_wg=H3tm8&pf_rd_r=K6V8EAZQ12R3X8FDXVYC&pd_rd_r=418ba4de-741c-41d1-bee0-6ab408cd004d&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyRTZIVzNBMlRUQURLJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwOTc2ODM3ODNUMjMzWlZWTktGJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA2MjgwOTYzNk0wMEc3VzRZTUw4JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfZGV0YWlsJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
@@TheFrogfeeder It will fit and work. How long it works may be in question. The overseas aftermarket fuel pu.os do not have the best reputation for durability. I would opt for the OEM fuel pump instead. If you do get the aftermarket one, you may consider buying two so you can keep a spare with you.
Doesn’t the WD40 dry out the seal ? Do you have a remote mic. And could you stand on the other side of the motor so we can see your work better ? Just a suggestion. You have a good way of explaining things , keep it up !
Not too sure about WD40 drying out seals. I'll use fogging oil next time. That won't dry em out. I only have the mix on the camera and the outstanding acoustics of my shop what with the concrete floor, steel walls and ceiling.😎
I'm not sure I can see what I'm doing if I stand on the other side and work on the wrong side of the motor. 🤔 Thanks Dave! Sounds like advice someone may have given Chrysleroutboarddude on some of his videos.🤣 I'll see if my other camera is any better after the first few videos.
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 POOR volume, great elbow, learned NOTHING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
@@CoriJacksMom Not my best elbow. I'll try to give a better one next time. If you didn't learn anything yet, don't give up. 😉
I watched more of the vid and you seemed more knowledgeable
Thanks, and thanks for watching! I know my way around 50s OMC outboard pretty well.
Sack the camera man!