Dialing In a Carburetor After a Rebuild
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- čas přidán 3. 10. 2020
- In this video I demonstrate how to dial in a dual adjustable circuit carburetor from initial settings from a cold start / first start following a fresh carburetor rebuild. I have had a lot of requests for info in how to do this so I decided to try making a video. Incidentally this motor is a 1958 Johnson 18hp FD-12.
Gracias, I have a 18hp Johnson and this video really helps. Thanks for your presentation.
You're welcome. I'm glad you got some good information from the video. Thanks for watching!
I have an 18hp 1957 evinrude this video was very helpfull thanks Johnny
Excellent! Glad you found it helpful. Thanks for watching!
Awesome video helped me very much thank you
Excellent! I'm glad to hear this video was helpful. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for sharing! I am getting back into outboards and am seeing lots of folks not knowing much about carbs. The set and reset once warm on both circuits is something folks sometimes miss too.
Yes, I have come to realize that also. I decided demonstrating this process in a video would be the most effective way to describe the process. Yes, it is also necessary to readjust a bit once the engine is warm. Ideally, the idle should be done after a thorough warm up following a full throttle run on the boat, but getting it in the right neighborhood in the tank beforehand is a good start. On some motors, they run a lot better if they are enriched 1/8-1/4 turn at cold start and then slowly adjusted back as it warms up. Others are not as sensitive.
Fine job Sir. Concise and uncomplicated.
Thank you, Ed. I was hoping it would come across that way. Thanks for watching!
This is very informative! When I bought my 57 Johnson 5.5 the previous owner told me to never touch these dials. After reading forums and watching videos on the topic I know that is not the case. When I adjusted the dials it was like a whole different motor, so much so that I'm no longer considering upgrading to more hp
I have come to realize there are a lot of people. Dare I say most average people that do not know or understand how to adjust a carburetor. I was getting a lot of questions about it and thought a video demonstration of the process would be the most effective way to explain it. Thanks for watching!
The previous owner probably messed with them badly and had to take them to a mechanic to fix it - where the mechanic said "don't mess with them". :)
@@dkruitz That is probably pretty much what happened.
I'm glad to see that my motor is "normal" when it comes to how sensitive it is. I have to adjust on it a little depending on the weather. I have a '64 model 18hp and I got rid of the fixed high speed jet and installed the older bowl with the adjustable high speed circuit. I was never able to get above 4,200 RPM with the fixed jet, and after installing the adjustable one I finally reached max RPM. The fixed jet was over rich.
Yes, it is normal to have to adjust the carburetor a little for changing weather conditions. I'm kind of surprised you were not able to get to 4500rpm with the fixed jet. Are you at a higher altitude? I have two '67s amd a '64 all with their original fixed jet carburetors and they are the strongest runners I have here in Michigan. I have a nice '63 with its original 2-circuit adjustable carburetor and it is about 1-1.5 mph slower than the others. I cannot dial any more out of it. Thanks for watching!
This video gonna help a lot of people :)
Edit: I could watch outboards run all day, I dunno what it is, I think I have a problem...
I should be out fishing using the 18hp, but the river is tough by myself, nobody wants to go... :(
I hope this video is helpful for lots of people. I think inhave a similar problem 🤔. I guess I can think of worse problems to have. 🤷♂️ Thanks for watching!
As always, another great vid ! Thanks !!
Thank you and thanks for watching!
Nice .......valuable information great video
Thank you. I hope it will be helpful for someone. Thanks for watching!
Helps a tons thanks. I just redid the carb on a 69 10hp Evinrude sportwin and it will start and end run but I could not figure out this needle adjustment stuff
Great to hear! That's exactly what I made the video for. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 I tried to dial it I a week ago but couldn't get it. But I didn't do it in gear as you did.
@@dustinadams9829 It needs to be done in gear under load in a ventilated test tank to evacuate the exhaust gasses or better yet, on the boat on the water. A test wheel is a big help especially in a barrel or small tank to keep from losing a bunch of water out of the tank. If using a barrel, at least use a fan to blow the exhaust away from the carburetor intake. If it inhales its own exhaust it will cause the engine to run rich due to lack of oxygen. If it gets dialed in like that it will end up much too lean when running it on the boat.
It Helped Me & most likely ,,, Hundreds, Thank You,, Great Vid. ..... kodibass
Great to get the positive feedback. Thank you and thanks for watching!
Thanks! very helpful video!
You're welcome! Glad you found it helpful. Thanks for watching!
Should I be able to slow the throttle down all the way? Seems as though no matter how much I lean it out I can not keep the engine running once the throttle is a little past shift on the slow side.
Most motors have enough wear on them that they will not idle against the mechanical low idle stop on the magneto plate. Depending upon condition of the powerhead, they can get the timing turned down pretty far before they stop running. The indicator ring is really only a rough guesstimate. You just have to slow the throttle down and dial in the low speed incrementally until.you reach the best the motor will do. Thanks for watching!
that test wheel you've got on there is super cool ive gotta get my hands on one of those one day. where did you find that one?
Some I have bought at meets, some I have bought on Ebay. I have test wheels for OMC 5.5, 7.5, 10, (15/18/20/25), and 25/30 hp RD/BT. Very handy for initial carburetor tuning in the tank before final fine tuning on the boat.
Hi Johnny how you doing...? I have a QD-16 that I just rebuilt the carb and it will start and run and idle down OK but I am getting fuel spitting out the throttle body. Is that an idication of improper float set or maybe bad seat or needle ?
Is it fuel spray that is coming back out of the carb intake while the engine is running? A small amount of that is normal, but not very much. If it is excessive, you may have a petal or two in the reed valves that are not sealing properly.
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 Not excessive but just ever so fine.The air breather is off while I was running and I noticed it.
@@rustyleighty1999 If itnis very fine mist, it is probably normal. If anything your reeds may not move sealing perfectly. Unless you are getting excess fuel mix covering or puddling in the bottom of the lower cowl, I would not consider it an issue. Thanks for watching!
Nice video thx that helped
Great to hear it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
Help , on td 20 5 hp , what oil do I put in extra screw hole on water circulated???
?? I do not understand.
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 where water goes in , there is a mini screw in there!
I put oil in once it leaked out slowly, look on your 46, or 48 , mine both have it
I'm thinking you give it a shot or oil before you take it out to prelube water circulator
I followed path or the flow from screw, and it looks like a prelube , passage
I’ve tried everything on my 5hp Sea King and it will not idle! I’ve rebuilt the carb and cleaned it twice. Fuel still comes out of it sometimes.
I would say you need to check the carburetor bowl vent in the body of the carburetor and make sure they are open and not obstructed. Those can be easily missed. I have even seen them intentionally plugged before. I'm guessing the float had failed at some point and the vent was leaking so it got plugged. Anyway, plugged bowl vents will cause them to pour fuel out the throat even if the float is adjusted properly and not sticking open. Thanks for watching!
Old JohnnyRude gave it a clean and linked the carb again. We will see!
You did not mention that the motor will reinvest the exhaust gasses back into the carburetor making it run richer.The warm exhaust gases will raise and although you cannot see them the engine will rerun them back into the engine. I put a box fan on a table and run them. This will lean them right out and you will get a more accurate setting.Ken
I didn't mention that. You are correct. What you could not see in this video is the exhaust fan drawing the exhaust out of the tank and away from the motor. It is good to bring it up. If there is no evacuation of the exhaust gasses there is almost no point in trying to dial in a carb in a tank. The mixture will be off by a lot once it is on a boat on the water. I used to use a big shop fan on my barrel, then I made this tank out of a 350 gallon tote and put exhaust on it. I now have a commercial size tank that I'm working on getting installed inside my barn with exhaust thru the wall. Thanks for watching!
Do you tune it with propeller on or off?
I usually use a test wheel in the test tank or a prop when on the boat. You cannot properly tune without a prop on the motor. The engine has to have a load on it to tune it. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 Ok. Thank you. My motor is a small 7.5 seahorse. I read prop on and some say prop off.
@@TuneInBurnOutTV Definitely run yours with the prop on it to tune it.
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 Ill try this tonight
looks like a 1958 18 Hp
You got it, Scott! That's exactly what it is. It has a few mismatch parts but seems to be a solid motor. Thanks for watching!
Hi Ben, I have a bit of a dilemma, it seems vintage outboard where I have gotten many parts, no longer is carrying any complete engine gasket kits for Johnson QD 17-19 engines anymore. Where would you, or do you get your kits from? As always thanks!
Gary
Hi Gary. I have never bought a complete gasket kit for any of my outboards this old. I have only bought individual gaskets if something needed to be replaced. If the gasket was simple enough or not readily available, I just make my own. The head gasket is the only one I typically buy new for a QD. Marineengine.com seems to have most of the gaskets as individuals.if Vintageoutboard doesn't. If neither of those have what you need check with Dan at ganotech.com. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 As always Ben, you're the best! Thanks!
@@garysmith5795 My pleasure. 🙂
Thanks for doing this video, it's prob one of its kind on youtube, and i think this is the one thing most people have difficulty with during a carb rebuild, myself included! You sure make it look easy! :) I was just out there for a few hours prob approaching 100 pulls, my pull rope is starting to come apart lol! Curious, what does "lightly seated" mean - from my understanding it's the least you can possibly thread the needle? But that is prob incorrect because if I back out any further it won't be threaded at all. Thanks appreciate it and I enjoy watching your vids, esp the classing outboard series!
It is always nice to hear from viewers that enjoy the content. I know I have gotten a lot of questions directly and seen many others ask the question generally how to do this. I came to realize that a great many people do not know or understand how the adjustments work on a carburetor. I have gotten a decent number of positive responses to this video. It is apparently helping some people get this done correctly and that's fantastic.
"Lightly seated" means the tapered / pointed end of the needle is just making contact with its seat in the carburetor body. I specify lightly, especially on the low speed needle, because if the needle is seated too firmly into the seat it can be damaged. The needle should be seated gently and with most of the resistance off the packing nuts to allow you to feel the seating of the needle before it is overdone. 9nce it is lightly seated, it is opened up 1 to 1.5 turns for initial starting and the packing nut can be snugged up to prevent the needles from moving too easily or on their own when the engine is running. Once that is done, it can be put in the water and started and this procedure followed to get it adjusted properly. Thanks for watching!
Nice sounding 58 ? 10 hp ? I just finished 2 of them and for sure one of my favorite motors along with the 54 ! How’s the 6 I sold you in Constantine ? Get Er done yet ? Ron just took a 75 Johnson 9.9 home to replace the other one someone wanted more then him ! Lol. Is that rain or snow ? Keep warm there bud !
Thanks Dave! It is a '58. It's an 18. It has a LOT of JohnnyRude in it now, but the motor was given to me and is in nice mechanical condition. It is very faded and not very pretty, but it should be a good runner.
I heard about Ron's motor getting lifted and him getting the '75 from you.
The 6 I got from you at Constantine runs great. It may not even need a tune up. I do need to get creative on a repair to the drive shaft spline which is stripped. I need to get the powerhead off and see how the crankshaft socket looks. There is quite a lot of spline left on the shaft but it will not even spin the drive shaft in neutral to run the water pump. Once that is fixed it should be a sweet little motor. 👍
I think I found the bracket for the 18hp fastwin. On marineengines they got it labeled as #0126256. Is that what the bracket that works for my 66 18hp?
I am talking to a guy about 150 miles away, that might have that bracket on a 69 25 hp Johnson. He took the bracket off a 72 20hp Johnson. The 25hp says needs a fuel pump(which I have), the 72 I dunno he bought just for the bracket apparently. He wants 350 for both or 300 for the 25 with the bracket and starter motor. Gonna send me pics later when they get home. Best lead yet.
Edit: www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_details.php?pnum=OMC0126256
Yes, that is the bracket. I posted a link to the video I made you of my bracket with the starter in it. Same number. It fits all the 22 c.i powerheads. At least all the ones with fiberglass covers. The link is back in the comment thread on the other video where you asked for the video. I posted it three days ago.
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 lol dang I’m slipping! Holy cow, I found it! And yes it’s the one on the motor that guy has. So now my decision: the bracket and motor brand new is 286$ on marine engines, the guy wants 300$ for his motor with the bracket, motor needs a fuel pump and it’s 150+ miles away... long drive, but I can probably slap a pump on the motor and sell it for more than 300. Imma offer at 250... I really hate driving, and spending money...
@@TheFrogfeeder Yupper, that's the bracket. Those small block 25s sell well. I have bought three of them this year. They're great motors if your not trying to troll with them on an aluminum fishing boat. They are strong performers. It should easily bring 300 as a running motor. They're hard to find near me for under 500. I do understand driving and spending money not being high on the list of fun things to do.
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 yeah, I’m driving 5 hours at least tomoro to go get both motors for 250$! 😁
The 25 needs fuel pump, the 20 is ready to go, just actually spoke to the guy.
Why don’t the 25s troll well, just don’t like the low speed?
@@TheFrogfeederThat will be worth the drive. 👍
So I got a 5.5hp Johnson and took it out for the first time after rebuilding the carb and I could not for the life of me get it to idle, could I have messed up the packing? If I remember right I may have tightened the low speed needle a little too much ? Could this be my issue ?
When you rebuilt the carburetor, did you remove the old packing and replace it with new? When you replaced the mixture needles, did you lightly seat and back them out to the initial positions before you tightened up the packing nuts? I usually start with both needles out 1.5 turns from lightly seated. That is WAY rich on the high speed and typically still a good bit rich onow speed. That way I know I will be leaning the mixture out from my start point and it usually means a fairly easy first start. From there follow this video on dialing the needles in while it is running. Be careful with the low speed needle especially. It is fairly easily damaged if it is seated too firmly. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 if I remember right I may have over tightened the packing nut on the low speed, I'm going to take it out again tomorrow probably and I'll report back, I tried running it in the back yard today I got it running good but the moment I put her into gear she dies, I could it possibly be my fuel pump? I replaced it with the correct part number but it was a cheap 15 dollar pump
@@nightdrivers9138 A could more questions.
1. What model is your motor? I ask so I know the year so I know what you're dealing with and how to answer questions better
2. Does it run and idle well, but just dies when you shift into gear? If so, your trouble may not be the carburetor, but the shock absorber in the gearcase. That part is under the water pump. They tend to get sprung after so long a time. When they do they expand in length and start to drag on the bottom of the bearing carrier plate for the drive shaft. When they are sprung they badly, I press them back together and weld the seam. That makes the drive shaft effectively solid and you have to go to a brass shear pin in the prop to protect the gears since there is no shock absorber in the driveline anymore.
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 so it's a cd18 1961 5.5hp seahorse, i can get it to run okay at high rpm but at low rpm I can get it to idle but the rpm still seem to be too high and can't get it to drop anymore, I also had issues with it popping out of gear under load at high speed
@@nightdrivers9138 OK. Second year with a fuel pump for a single line tank. First year for needle bearings on the big ends of the rods so it will use 24:1 gas/oil mix instead of 16:1 that the previous years required.
It does sound like your low speed circuit may be clogged or partially clogged. Something seems.to be keeping it from taking over when the high speed circuit cuts off. It also sounds like your clutch dog and possibly forward gear has become rounded off from slow shifting over the years. The detent spring in the gearcase could be weakened or broken as well.
can you remake this vid with the camera above ? so we see what you are doing
on a 1963 5.5hp johnson if u have it :P
This one is fairly clear if you're following my narration with the video. At the very end, it could be better. If I get a chance, I will try to make a new version of this video with a different camera angle that hopefully will not have the same issue. As far as the motor goes, I'll see what I am working on when I decide to try doing the video. All these OMC dual adjustable circuit carburetors adjust the same way. Thanks for watching!
I just pulled original paper work , it's pump drain plug
That makes some sense.
Do you adjust motors every time you use them? If it’s adjusted for say a hot day then you want to use on a cold day 2 weeks later...re-adjustment?
How bout if you keep slowing down the idle and adjusting, got the perfect idle for the day, then won’t it be out of adjustment for initial startup next time?
I was supposed to get a 33hp 1965 Evinrude yesterday but the guy screwed me after having me drive 2 hours...that carb on that thing didn’t have a high speed adjustment..every 33 hp from the 60s on marine engines shows in the schematic that they all have an adjustable jet there.
Edit: I really wanted that 33hp motor...my 28 was running beautifully the other day, not even a cough or hiccup...but it wouldn’t go over 6 mph...I gotta look at my throttle cables, but I feel like I was getting full throw on the handle..so disheartening
I adjust motors as needed. Sometimes they need to be adjusted a little and other times they don't. It just depends on the conditions. If there is a large swing in temperature or humidity, then an adjustment to the low speed needle is often needed for best idle. If it is a big difference, like early spring or late fall to middle of summer, the high speed may need a little adjustment as well. The idle needing adjustment is very common. That is why they left the low speed adjustment on the carburetors long after they went to a fixed high speed jet.
Sorry to hear the deal on the 33hp didn't work out. I see that Marineengine.com shows adjustable high speed on 33hp thru the 1960s. I find that unusual, although maybe that is how those were. I'm not that familiar with the 33s. Most OMC motors went to fixed high speed in 1964 at the same time they made the switch to 50:1 mix ratio. I would have guessed that one would have been fixed high speed being a '65. I was surprised to see ME showed that carb as 2 circuit adjustable. Thanks for watching!
As for your only getting 6mph at WOT, it sounds like it dropped a cylinder if it was not getting full RPM. Thats my first thought, anyway.
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 I pulled each wire while out running, no change in it. Would anything that undear the fly wheel make it do that?
I was thinking the throttle cables, they work perfectly on the 18, you think they need adjustment for a 28? Like i said, they seem to move the throttle all the way, but it’s hard to see on the 28 from my console, it’s all tucked up in there.
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 I’m so bored today, I’m thinking about trying to add my 62 Johnson 18hp to the boat, dual 18s is 36 hp ;) would look better with 2 fastwin, but it’s what I have. I have 4 gas cans, so I can do the different mixes. Lol your thoughts?
@@TheFrogfeeder I say sounds good to me. Set it up for the Fastwin and the FD now and you can always get another Fastwin to put in place of the Johnson down the road. Twin 18s are great!