Replacing Spark Plug Wires and Terminals on an OMC Universal Magneto
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- čas přidán 28. 11. 2020
- This video shows how to replace or install the spark plug wire on a new coil and then how to install the terminal and boot on the other end of the assembly.
Great instruction video. I was able to install my new coils and plug wires perfect first time. Thank you!
Awesome to hear! I'm glad to be able to help out. The feedback is really appreciated. Thanks for watching!
Cool demo • Cheers from the Detroit & Mackinac Railway 🚂
Thank you and thanks for watching!
Excellent video.
Thank you! Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the tips, I've got a motor just like that one, have you ever ran across a bronze 2 blade prop for a 5.5 just purchased a 62 Johnson with one, and guess that's the only year they incorporated fuel filter housing on intake, that calls for sock type element, keep the videos coming.
Yes, I have seen a 2-blade and a 3-blad bronze prop for the 5.5. They are not real common. They have all been Michigan Wheel props. I had a '62 Johnson 5.5 and it had the remote mounted sock filter too. I guess I never paid attention to that being the only year I had seen woth sock. Thanks for watching!
It would be cool if you got the time to make a few more of these little demo/instructional videos on this stuff
I try to do a how-to video every so often. I do have an 18-video series on doing a full tune-up on classic OMC outboards. When I get requests for certain things or think of something that may be helpful and have an opportunity to do it, I try to get a video done. Thanks for watching.
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 thanks for the reply . I find these ones both informative and encouraging as I’m trying to get better at fixing /looking after motors . The normal boat ride ones are very relaxing, specially as I’m not getting out on the water due to a certain global situation
@@TheConradChannel Thank you. I appreciate the feedback. Thanks very much for watching!
very helpful! thank you
I'm glad you found this video helpful. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the great how to, I just picked up a nice QD15 that will need going over, Where do you get your parts such as carb kits, water pumps and the like ?
Congratulations on your new motor. The QD-15 is a great one. I buy many of my parts from Marineengine.com. Also check iBoats, Vintageoutboard.com, ebay, etc. Something to know about the QD-15 since it is a 1954 those are getting harder to find parts lists for. Many of the parts, however, are still common with much later motors. The water pump is the same as that used in the 18-25hp through 1976. The carb kit is the same one used on the 10hp through 1963. Coils, points, and condensers were used on all the twin cylinder OMCs from ~1952 through 1972. Thanks for watching!
Thank you!
Thanks for watching!
Great video. Do you have a video of setting the air gap on tie coils after replacement? I don’t have the locator ring
I don't have a video of it, but when setting the coil air gap without the ring, just line up the heels of the laminations with the machined outer edge of the bosses the coils sit on. Use your fingernail to get them as close to the machined edge as you can without them hanging over and tighten them down. I have set lots of them that way before getting the coil ring. Thanks for watching!
Thank you!!!!!
Thanks for watching!
Where do you get your spring tips for the spark plug wire to spark plug head? I've looked all over the internet and don't find anything like that? Thank you for the info...
Bill
They are available from BRP, Sierra Marine Parts, and other sources online such as this one:
lionparts.com/products/spi-01-109-sparky-plug-connector-sold-each-not-pair?variant=31138827993167&gclid=Cj0KCQjwmcWDBhCOARIsALgJ2QcHm18LQhuodvUw2QFwk7iFA5xdHTEEQK4sVKohugEp2NkOEF1IqsYaAmHGEALw_wcB
Thanks for watching!
Where ya get those cool shrink wrap boot covers? Thanks for this video!
I use 3/8" marine heat shrink tubing. It works great on these coils. Thanks for watching!
Happy thanksgiving!
I just pulled apart the 33 and 35 to start the short shaft conversion. Unfortunately I won’t be able to just bolt the short case on, the flange is ever so slightly different and will not seal, and also the water pumps are different the 35 has 2 tubes coming out the 33 has 1..but everything else looks good for swapping parts. I was hoping you knew off hand which of your videos will guide me for removing the shift rod, that’s the only part I’ve never messed with in this process.
I guess I didn't realize you were dealing with one Super Quiet and one non-Super Quiet. That is true, they will not quite match up. The rest should be the same. The powerheads don't match up either, but the internal parts are the same. If the actual shift rod has to be changed, the gearcase has to come apart to remove them. The skeg comes off then the gearset comes out. At that point the shift fork and shift rod assembly can come out.
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 ok, so i gotta take the very bottom skeg part off, and that whole gear assembly should just come out in one piece, then shaft just slides out thru the bottom right? And doing all that gives me access to the shift rod linkage too. I should probably replace all the oil seals and shift rod seal while I’m there too huh?
I didn’t know The was a quiet motor, the housing is all different for sure, i thought it was just fancy 50s facade styling... I wish that 59 was in fixable condition because, I can’t believe imma say a Johnson is better looking than the Evinrude, but this one really is/was ;)
Thankyou
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 got the cases opened, the skitwin definitely had a water leak, the Johnson was sealed tight... the oil/water was also rusty orange in the skitwin, the o-ring for the prop shaft was rotted completely away,the cotter pin for the shift rod linkage was rusted almost all the way thru, and the case was sealed with silicone not a spaghetti gasket, and the driveshaft was missing it’s o-ring also. I’ll have to use the gear assembly and bottom case cover from the Johnson for peace of mind. Good thing I did this swap!! So I’ll order the driveshaft seals and a new impeller and she should be good to go :)
@@TheFrogfeeder I have had plenty of them turn out that way. Yes, it is a good thing you made the swap. It should be set once you get it done and back together. 👍
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 this will be the most work I’ve done on a motor yet, I got everything apart and clean and covered, I found a entire lower unit seal kit on amazon for 26$ so I’ll even have the nylon washers for the drain/fill plugs which I’ve never seen on any motor I have or had. The lower unit will hopefully be good for as long as I own this motor now :)
After this, I just gotta retap 2 bolt holes where somebodies jbweld let go, The starter bottom bracket is mounted to those 2 holes, and there is pressure behind there...I think that goes back to this being a frankenrude motor ;)
Thank you for the helpful video. Got a ? for ya do you know if a 1957 10hp Johnson lower unit will work on a 1958 Johnson 18hp?
You're welcome. Glad to hear you found the video helpful. Yes, the 5-bolt lower unit from a '57 10hp Johnson (or Evinrude) will bolt up to and work on a 1958 Johnson 18hp. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 Thank you so much for the info. My 18 HP lower unit is bad (gears) former owner got the screws boogered up so bad , I have a lower for a 56 10 HP, and was hoping it would work. I'll use the prop from the 18. I sure do appreciate your help friend , thank you again, God bless you
I'm restoring a 57 mercury mark 10 which runs good but the plug wires are old and need new ones. I haven't looked that close yet but was told the old coils the spark wire can't be replaced?
Without looking it up I don't know if the Mark 10 Merc has Phelon or Scintilla ignition. Either way, the plug wires can be replaced, but the Scintilla mag will have either tabs or solder blobs on the coils. If it has a tab, just bend the wire through the loop. If it has the solder blob, you have to very carefully unsolder the old wire and solder on a new one, or if part of it is good, cut the wire and solder a new length of wore to a stub of the old one. Be very careful soldering them. Too much heat from the soldering iron can melt the secondary winding internally.
They have the Phelon coils. Thats good to know then. Thanks
Hey I purchased a 69 18hp,evin. Seller said it had new coils,points, by his local mechanic, at pre-insp noticed mag plate movement at rotation,pulled flywheel found 1 lam leg contact to flywheel, lams were discolored slightly starting to flare open slightly, no major grooving on flywheel. Coils appear to be BRP markings and new gold hold down bolts, Thinking to replace with new one, what's your opinion would you go used old factory type or (hi-fong) china, noticed no fuel filter on that model either, going to adapt factory glass bowl type and remove spark plug wires protective sleeve too, stiff over time think that was the cause of worn advance lever, 69 late model, kinda like to leave them what there born with, you need flexibility on those wires, including stop wires too, enjoy all your videos, I understand what you deal with on getting them right, when you can crank them with 6" of rope
I would replace the worn coil with a new OEM coil. I would avoid the Chinese Ebay aftermarket ones. If you do want to be able to start your motor with a 6" pull of the starter rope, don't try the cheap Ebay coils. They run, but they won't make a strong spark at that low of an RPM. If you give the rope a rip, it will start and they'll keep it running. Starting will not be as easy though. I like to keep those coils in 10hp and under motors most of the time. Sierra do not always have well-fitting laminations anyway and the lams are the reason for replacing the one existing coil. I would also hold on to the coil with the flared lamination as a spare. Chances are it would still work fine as it is if you didn't want to replace it at all. Just move the lamination back so the edge is even with the machined bosses on the mag plate. The auxiliary fuel filters were eliminated at some point due to the filter screen being inside the fuel pump inlet cover. I do like the glass sediment bowl filters also. Having the extra filtration certainly will not hurt anything.
Those plastic sleeves over the plug wires always get stiff. I have removed most of them from my motors for that reason. The kill switch wires get stiff too, but do not restrict magneto movement like the sleeve does.
It is always nice to hear when someone enjoys my content. Thanks for watching!
EXCELLENT
Thank you and thanks for watching!
I have a 1960 Ward/ sea king 35 hp with electric start gg8837A. From what i understand the sister engine is 35DE13 by gale/bucaneer. Ive read somewhere that these are considered OMC engines . do you know anything about this im struggling to find parts.
Your Sea King is built by Gale Products. It was the third branch of OMC. They built all of the store brand motors for OMC that were marketed by Wards, Spiegel, Atlas, Goodyear, Eaton's of Canada, etc. The 35s are mostly identical mechanically to the Johnson and Evinrude 35hp motors with the standard (non-super quiet). To my knowledge Gale never built a motor with the Super Quiet lower. The 1957 and '58 standard J/E should share pretty much all the mechanical parts that are not cosmetic. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 thank you so much! Im glad there is someone out there with as much knowledge as yourself willing to help others and share their videos. Thank you again. Ill have to send ya the video when i get the boat restored and the motor singing as nice as one of yours!
@@sir.icefire5470 That would be awesome. I'll be looking forward to seeing it. Thanks again for watching!
nice job, but no boat ride? LOL keep up the good work,
No boat ride. I did take it for a barrel race right after this video though. Thanks for watching!
Looks good buddy!
Are you having problems with uploading videos to CZcams? A 2 minute video is taking two hours for me now.
Thank you, my friend. For me it depends totally on my location. I used to be able to upload a 3 minut video in 15 minutes with cellular data. My WiFi at home is really slow so that doesn't count. Now it takes 20 minutes one day and 2 hours another day at home. There is one place I can go in town that makes uploads much faster, but it seems hit or miss at home now.
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 okay well for me it doesn’t seem to matter if I am on WiFi or cellular. Thanks for letting me know I will try again
OK. I'll let you know if anything strange here. I have another video uploading now. About 6 minutes long and it is taking just under an hour.
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 I am trying to upload one now that is 2 minutes and it says 3 hours. This is stupid.
@@Mnoutboards Wow! I wonder why it is doing that. That's stupid, crazy, and in-sane! Ain't nobody got time for that!
I'm still confused as to what holds it on place...
What holds what in place? I don't fully understand what you are confused about. I will try to help you understand if I can. Thanks for watching.