Follow Up On The Janome HD3000 Situation
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- čas přidán 11. 07. 2024
- Let's do further investigation on the Janome HD3000. LIKE, SHARE AND SUBSCRIBE / @thimblebook . Your Support is greatly appreciated. =)
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First off...THANK YOU for giving people a peek inside this "Heavy Duty" machine. It is appreciated.
I have not yet posted a Janome "exposed" video to my channel, but will post a couple of snippets to what I am going to publish on my own findings of my sheep in wolf's clothing via a video or two. I'm glad you left it for people to draw their own conclusions. That gives the viewer the choice of whether or not to go with what is being presented, obviously.
People need to understand what they are seeing. With the HD3000 (actually a model 753LE), that black soot on the commutator (not communicator, LOL) is what happens when you run a motor hard and fast. As well, the brushes are made with lesser quality carbon brushes, thus the blackened, sooty appearance on the copper commutator. How many sewing projects have I done on this machine? Exactly 6 of them, and not one of them was something you'd consider to be a "Heavy Duty" project, save for the denim pack sack.
A machine that has had this low an hour usage should not have a commutator that is that packed in with soot.
The differences between these motors; the flywheel. With the older Kenmore motor, which is most certainly an electric brush motor, you'll see the aluminum cast flywheel. That motor came out of a 1991 Kenmore 27. That machine I have upgraded the motor to a .7 amp motor. This .5 amp motor I reconditioned, and it works very well. The machine, I will note, is almost all metal, save for the nylon gears down below, and a lot of moulded, hard (and strong) plastics found within the cam block, as well as a commuter elbow, etc. The old HD3000 would have had it's build using many of these same parts (they have identical frames and infrastructure on both the Kenmore and the Janome models).
The new motor (if you look, you will see identical model numbers for both motors), like you described, was meant to run fast. And it does. The main reason? The wafer thin, ultra light flywheel. Add to this the super light parts inside the Janome HD3000, like you pointed out...allows the machine to run really fast. It does not make better needle penetration, or better anything for that matter.
Controlling the pedal speed is very difficult for anyone with a heavy foot. Trust me, mine is one kilo away from being a lead foot...LOL. It was so bad I had to buy a sewing machine with a speed controller feature on it. With the HD3000 being so lightweight inside, you get a whole lot of stitches, and the machine will sew stuff. But then, any machine can do what this machine does. Seriously. What this machine is NOT is Heavy Duty. The fact that Janome is still advertising these machines as the end all and be all of strong, durable sewing machines just galls me to no end.
I won't lament further. I'll post my videos tomorrow as those little shorts style vids. That will hopefully be enough until I can get a decently made video onto my channel for people to have a look at. I want to show them the "before" and "after" with build quality when comparing the old Kenmore built Janome machines vs what you get for your very hard earned money today.
Thank you for working with me on this. I really appreciate you giving a broader voice to this issue of what you get when you buy a "Heavy Duty" Janome (or any such machine, actually).
Peace Out!
I went from domestic sewing machines to industrial, i discovered heavy duty machines too late and never really understood why they were considered heavy duty to begin with until this video, thanks for this collaboration, finally understanding so many things
I had both the Janome HD1000 & the HD3000, which both got donated to charity as they did not meet my expectations...I now use the Bernette b05 Academy which is a work horse...I have been sewing for 60 + years & love it!
Awesome. you have a very nice machine.
I would say that the Janome HD line are DOMESTIC heavy duty machines. That's different from an industrial heavy duty. One issue that will always reduce a domestic's power, is that it does many things. Even the 3000 and 5000 have 18 sts. That's 18 times the number of stitches a true industrial will usually have. An industrial does one thing, and does it incredibly well. So a heavy duty domestic and a heavy duty industrial will never be equal. There is a channel where a guy (I can't remember his name or the name of his channel) who makes backpacks and camping/hiking equipment, compares a Singer HD from their 4400 series, to a Janome HD3000. He felt they were both heavy duty machines, they both did well with his tests. There is a channel where a sewing machine repairer pulls apart machines and he did an episode on a Singer HD from their 4400 series, and determined that yes, it was a heavy duty machine.
But what is a heavy duty machine for the domestic sewer? For someone who sews clothes for themselves or their family, it isn't the same as the person who has a business sewing, as the guy I mentioned above, camping and hiking gear, and is doing this all day long. A heavy duty machine for domestic use is going to need to get through several thicknesses, say for jeans, or a coat. For that, the Janome HD3000 is going to work, and work well (although I have, and far prefer, the HD5000). One advantage of the Janome, is that the presser bar will lift an extra notch, so that you can fit extra thicknesses underneath.
The other issue is what the sewer is asking the machine to be. By that, I mean, if you want to do high speed heavy duty sewing, you probably want to invest in an industrial straight stitch. If you do a lot of bathing suits, you probably need a serger. Etc. The myth is that there is a perfect machine out there that can do everything, and it just doesn't exist. I have 4, and each one does what it does very well. I have a Singer Studio 16 (not the computerised 18), a semi-industrial high speed (1600 sts per minute-- Juki makes one that does in excess of 5000 sts, but it's like a race car, I just don't need that:-)) for lots of straight line, fast sewing on woven fabrics. I have the Janome 5000HD for sort of all purpose/everything sewing. I have a Husqvarna Viking Eden Rose which I got for a song-- I wouldn't have purchased it otherwise. It handles knits especially well and does a wide variety and length of buttonhole, which the Janome does not-- the latter only had the standard buttonhole, a limit on all mechanicals, and can't do more than 1" long. I have the model I grew up on, the indestructable Singer 15-91. The limitation on that one is that having been made in 1953, it can't handle knits. None of my machines can do everything, I need and use all 4. (I am one of those people who is allergic to sergers-- tried one which was a disaster, just not my thing, and although I do sew on knit fabrics, not enough to torture myself with getting used to a serger and coverstitch machine.) My point is that a true industrial heavy duty machine would not do all of these things, anyway.
Thank you so much for this comment. I have been looking for a machine for exactly these purposes- I am trying to sew all my families clothes myself- so I need something that is VERSATILE and somewhat budget-friendly. I have been looking at the Janome HD5000BE for these purposes. I really only need straigtt he stitch and zigzag, so the other stitches are just extra fluff to me, but at the same time I can’t afford one of the semi-industrial machines and this machine looks to be the top of the line for my budget and needs. Comments like yours help me to verify that. It needs to be able to handle frequent use at a domestic level and turn out polished looking seams so my children don’t get made fun of by their friends. That’s about all I’m looking for. I’ve been hand-stitching the last three years since my childhood brother machine broke and frankly I’m losing my mind because they grow faster than I can sew 🤣🤣
@@sorelyanlie2784 I'm so glad my comment was helpful!:-). Yes, I think that you will find the HD5000 to really work for you. Hi highly recommend Ken's Sewing in Alabama. Free shipping, same price as Amazon, and they even run sales every once in a while. I also strongly suggest getting the HD5000 instead of the HD3000 because it gives you 2 more utility sts which are so much more valuable than the 2 more decoratives on the 3000. Also, the 5000 visual panel is much better and more convenient than the 3000.
My one hint on this machine which is not included in the manual, is that if you have the thread on the horizontal spindle when winding the bobbin, wrap it twice around the little peg. Otherwise, the bobbin will wind too loose. If you have the thread on the vertical spindle when winding the bobbin, just place the thread as it states in the manual.
I do want to add something here-- I began sewing at age 9, and never looked back. It was the 1960's, before fast-fashion, and people sewed their own clothes both for the creativity and to save money. It was before knit fabrics really came on the market place for the home sewer, so what you needed was a solid machine that would sew forwards and backwards, with different stitch lengths, and hopefully, a buttonholer attachment. The sewing was about the sewing, not really about the machine. No one ever took a class on how to use their machine, the manual was plenty.
I was taught by my mother, who was a very follow-the directions kind of sewer. She did excellent work. I was also taught by my paternal aunt, a very different kind of sewer. Aunt Janet was a prominent (behind the scenes prominent, not a household name sort of prominent) children's fashion designer. Her mother (my paternal grandmother) had sewn everything at home, as had her mother. Janet grew up sewing and designing. I have a copy of a rejection letter she received from McCall's Magazine, after sending them her designs, from 1939. She was 13 years old. After high school, my grandmother packed her off to Bates College; this was post Depression, and my widowed grandmother was adamant that Janet had a solid career. After 2 very unhappy years, Janet put her foot down, and somehow convinced her mother to let her attend the Rhode Island School of Design, the Harvard of design schools, from which she graduated in 1948. Which is to say that Janet was sewing the mock-ups of her designs for child, her own clothing, eventually her husband's and children's clothing, and then things for me and parents and siblings, etc., etc., etc., from the late 1940's, onwards. The kicker is that she ended up doing a lot of designs for McCall's Magazine.
Having grown up in the Depression, she was extremely thrifty, and she was never willing to spend more than a couple of hundred dollars on a sewing machine, her entire life, up until her death in 2013. She did eventually get a machine with zig-zag stitch so that she could sew knits, at some point in the 1970's. No machine she ever owned was computerised. My uncle sewed a full-sized teepee (using Ben Hunt's "Indian Crafts and Lore") on whatever machine she had, which they camped in for years and years. She sewed everything from lingerie, to baby clothes, to coats, to well, everything you can think of, on her home sewing machine.
Now, granted, in the 1940's, '50's, '60's and most of the '70's, I'm sure those machines were made out of cast iron and could, as they say, handle anything you could throw at them. I'm not arguing that the computerised machines have their pluses (I own one) and that there are some great features. I'm also the last person to argue that there are so many different kind of machine sewing now, and that different machines are great for different things.
But there are so many different machines, and so many different styles, and we can make ourselves crazy trying to decide which one(s) are best for us. I went nuts during 2 separate summers, buying machines. It was worse than buying a car, much, much worse, actually. I'm so glad I have all my machines. I still want an embroidery machine, just for elaborate button hole designs. But if all I had was my Janome HD5000, I could sew anything I want. It's not even my favourite machine, that would be my 1953 Singer 15-91. I'm not saying this to be combative, people love their different machines, and with good reason. I'm just saying that unless you are a specialty sewer, as long as you have straight stitch, zigzag or lightening stitch, overcast stitch and can make buttonholes, whatever you have will probably work for you.
Wow. Its so cool your aunt designed for McCalls. For the buttonholes, i got one of the computerized 4x4 brother embroidery machines from Walmart. They work pretty good for a little buttonhole variety. Thanks for commenting.
@@ThimbleBook Thanks so much for the info on the Brother embroidery machine! I have the downloads of some beautiful buttonhole decorations, but they have to be used with a machine with a USB port. I looked up Brother 4x4 embroidery machines, and it looks as if they have that ability. Yeah, I just love that not only did she end up designing for them, but that she did after getting turned down at age 13:-). I'm sure she never revealed her age to them when she first sent in those samples! But not only was she a great help in my learning to sew, but she was certainly an inspiration in going after your dreams!:-).
Amierichan, thank you for this interesting story about your aunt! I would love to have seen her designs, and maybe I did, because I grew up in the 1960s and 1970s. I miss the days when women expressed their creativity by sewing. Girls nowadays buy endless amounts of clothing because they want to look their best, but they have NO IDEA of the artistic principles that would flatter their particular style of beauty. Nor do they have technical sewing skills. They are trapped. The humblest little Home Ec student from the past was far better off than today's ignorant and helpless young woman.
@@drjlrust You may very well have! I don't have any of the magazines, but I've seen the old copies of McCalls where they would show the dresses on little girls, or sometimes mother-daughter combinations, and you could send in the coupon at the back of the magazine and X amount of money, and have the patterns sent to you. She had a favourite model to use for the photographs, it really is amazing how respected she was in the business. Her obituary says that she graduated from high school in 1943, and then did the 2 years at Bates, and then graduated from RISD in 1949. So she must have had to start all over with the 4 year program when she went to RISD. I'll have to ask my father about that, he will remember (he is 95!). She designed for Rosenau Brothers in Philadelphia, and then was the head designer for Joseph Love in New York, and once she had kids, freelanced in houses in Boston and Philadelphia. Pretty amazing. I was so fortunate to have her at my elbow when learning to sew.
It's very interesting. I was just talking with a teenager about how visual my memory is, that I will remember where I was when I was engaged in a certain conversation, and what I was wearing. She was stunned that I would recall what I was wearing. We talked about how her generation is now wearing mostly shorts or sweat pants and t-shirts or hoodies to school, so basically all the time, except when there is some special occasion. It's never anything memorable or distinctive, from day to day. I showed her images on the Internet/Pinterest, etc. of what fashion-forward girls my age were wearing in the early - mid 1970's. There were plenty of more hippie-ish styles, but even those outfits were artistic, jeans and embroidered peasant blouses sort of things. She said kids her age don't even wear jeans much these days. And yet there's the fast-fashion culture. There is also far less use of make-up than there was when I was a teenager or in my early 20's. The ones who wear make-up, tend to do it in a very exaggerated way. I remember sewing my outfits for the season in what is now called middle school, and I knew no one had exactly what I was wearing, and I was HAPPY about that!
Some of this is generational, of course, as it always has been and always will be:-). It's also an interesting statement on what they find important. A great deal of dressing when I was young was to attract boys. I am fascinated that that's not what motivates their clothing these days. Everything cycles, and likely this will as well. Very few know how to sew or own a machine, but there are a couple I know here and there. What I hope is that if not in sewing, they are finding some other way to express their creativity, and I'm not sure that's happening.
All of these different machines and definitions made my head spin so much that I recently picked up a 1938 Singer treadle machine. Ill tell you what, what I lost in speed was made up for multiple times over in the amount of fabrics I can sew through with beautiful and strong stitches. Plus, it was hundreds of dollars cheaper than a modern machine. It is now my primary machine. From apparel fabric to denim, the vintage machine performs nicely!
Awesome
Thanks.
Understand, plastic is used in most car/truck timing chain gears goes 100k miles, Briggs entire cam(s) is plastic & lasts decades too. It's in everything & its tough!
I retired in 2001 but made OEM auto parts & military weapon guns/rocket stuff too. Plastic is battlefield tested. Nylon you say? Still plastic!..lol
Tried to break M16/M60/AK Stock/Butt/Grip lately? We made millions of them!
I started out making Ma Bell parts remember her?..lol
We made Harley fairings where I worked also so I seen it all change trust me. In the sample dept I tested all our new molds & any changes made. We set torque test on the little plastic bosses for Harley Davidson fairings at 130ft lbs for quality control test. Yes I said ft lbs not inch lbs. Higher than most vehicles wheel torque.
I think it was 3/8 bolt size? Been awhile sorry, but they were small bolts/boss size. During testing we hit 153ft lbs & they still held. We never twisted a boss or at least I never seen one break? Crazy tough, it shocked us all because it was designed for 20-25ft!
Plastic durability is there believe me its tough stuff.
What mainly gives plastic a bad rep is corps cutting corners or engineering not knowing what materials to use & where.
Sun destroys plastic fast, but my wife don't sunbathe with her Jenome machine. Still by far the best built machines under $500. Singers & Brothers only last half as long if that.
Thanks for your great insight about the plastic. It makes a lot of sense.
It’s standard. It does not plow through bulk like, say a Sailrite machine. I couldn’t get it through coated PVC double knit. It did better than the Juki DX7 though.
I wanted one was replacing my 30+ year Kenmore that was computerized and finally died. I first purchased a less expensive Brother and it did not last a year with regular sewing. I did alot of research and decided on the Janome HD3000 because it is mechanical, not electronic and I love it. I grew up learning to sew from my maternal grandmother using a treadle Singer and Mom had a WHITE machine. My elderly cousin passed 2015 and sewed for a living and she was still using the Pfaff that her mother bought 80 years earlier in the 1930's. ( I found the purchase receipt book in the drawer.) PS, the motor was replaced but the everything else was original. And now I have my paternal grandmother's Anniversary Singer from the 1950's and it will SEW THRU anything. So with my Janome HD3000 and my Anniversary Singer.... I am a happy camper.
You've got some very nice machines. Since Janome made the 385 Kenmore and later models, its like you got a cousin to your original machine. Happy sewing! 🙂
@@ThimbleBook ❤
Yes I knew I was right!! they are also doing this with tools too not just sewing machine! I believe it’s for better contact? but.. I believe it’s because they don’t won’t them to be fixed ? It is a pain to work on the motor sometimes you have to send a part to the machine shop to fix the metal bearing I believe if the brushes were gone !
From my own, very European point of view, the so-called Heavy Duty is just a marketing term and nothing else. Home sewing machines are not intended for continuous sewing of leather or strong fabrics. Industrial sewing machines are a different matter.
Then these mysterious amps. Home sewing machines in Europe seem to be inefficient if you calculate the power W divided by the voltage V. Let's look at two machines I own, Janome 6700P 230V and 55W -> approx. 0.24 Amps and Juki TL-2200QVP 230V and 90W -> 0.39 Amps. Both sew what I want, excluding strong fabrics and leather of course.
In sewing machines, including home sewing machines, quality bearings, shafts and quality workmanship are (and this is my own opinion) more important than an easily replaceable, relatively cheap electric motor
"...Heavy Duty is just a marketing term and nothing else. Home sewing machines are not intended for continuous sewing of leather or strong fabrics. Industrial sewing machines are a different matter."
Absolutely @hese61
I have a lot to say on this.
TL;DR , nothing sensational or conspiratorial is happening here with "Big Sewing" lol.
I would consider any domestic machine to be just that - Domestic. To quote the Oxford definition "relating to the running of a home or to family relations". If we pondered what "Domestic Heavy Duty" might mean in marketing terms I don't think any lies are being sold here.
Et Cetera...
If you are sewing a sturdy fabric such as denim, canvas , lightweight leather , vinyl and upholstery ( on a regular basis or to produce a product - even on a small scale ) please invest in an industrial straight stitch with servo motor , grab a walking foot if that floats your boat. Or look for an old treadle machine I found those to zip through most heavy fabrics like butter + no electricity required. Replace your needles and dust / clean your machine often! You can look up industrial sewing machines in your area , pick up a used one , get to know the service center , they will give you a short lesson, sell you the oil for the motor and large cones of "heavy duty" thread. Juki is a good place to start. Fashion students and other small scale production houses are always selling off machines.
☺IMO comparing a Sailrite Walking Foot machine to any Heavy Duty Domestic is a bit silly. Sail canvas is extremely heavy. Sailrite machines were designed as a portable alternative to an industrial straight stitch. You can add a hand crank to one of their balance wheel models to use without any electricity , I don't think we can do that with any of the current domestic machines , heavy duty or otherwise. While domestic machines might be marketed as heavy duty to the home sewer and Sailrite may market themselves to the "heavy fabric" home sewer , the original design objectives remain.
I'd like to see a Sewing Machine Service tech weigh in on all of this because you could really go down a rabbit hole talking about AC and DC motors , VFD , servo and clutch. Just so much.
I believe the goal of all sewing machine companies is simple. Yes to remain profitable and not go under but also keep machines at an affordable price point to support and engage the domestic home sewer. Barrier to entry needs to remain low , they are aware as anyone that cost of living is rising and wages are unfortunately stagnant. For many , especially those who are aging , the fact that newer machines are lighter in weight is a big plus. The trend if anything is to remain affordable and provide a decent value for all.
To ponder another question : Who is the audience for this product ? I saw a mountain of Janome HD3000 at Jo Ann fabrics over the holiday season. Who shops at Jo Ann's? I would say mainly hobbyists. Roll on down to any sewing machine retailer and they cater to more "serious" or "advanced" hobbyists. I definitely recommend buying from whatever sewing machine center is in your area so you can develop a relationship with them for service , repair and the inevitable upgrade when you become more serious. If you have issues with a Janome look up the nearest Bernina center and they will be happy to assist.
My first brand new machine was a Janome Magnolia 7330. That was over a decade ago. I sew garments and some light upholstery regularly and it's still ticking. Before that I only had mixture of second hand all metal vintage machines. I love fixing and maintaining them but I wanted something lightweight, modern and more energy efficient. I hope to upgrade to a Bernina soon and when I have the space acquire an industrial machine. My Janome 7330 was and is a great value for what I was able to afford at the time , $360.00 on sale.
Breakdown of sewing machine motors from this South African site : www.saito.co.za/motors-for-sewing-machines-pros-and-cons-of-each-type
"Here is a table summarizing the different types of motors available for sewing machines, along with their pros and cons:
Type of Motor Pros Cons
Clutch Motor Precise control over sewing speed Requires more maintenance
Direct Drive Motor Quiet, smooth operation Less control over sewing speed
Servo Motor Energy efficient, adjustable sewing speed More expensive
Electronic Motor Adjustable sewing speed Requires electricity
Clutch motors are a popular choice for sewing machines because they offer precise control over the sewing speed and they are relatively quiet and smooth running. However, they do require more maintenance than other types of motors and can be more expensive to repair if they fail.
Direct drive motors are another popular choice for sewing machines. They are quiet and smooth running and do not require a clutch mechanism. However, they offer less control over the sewing speed than clutch motors.
Servo motors are a newer type of motor that is becoming more common in sewing machines. They are energy efficient and offer adjustable sewing speeds. However, they are generally more expensive than other types of motors.
Electronic motors are another option for sewing machines. They offer adjustable sewing speeds and do not require a clutch mechanism. However, they require electricity to operate, so they may not be suitable for all users"
I don't know how many times I've yelled at my HD3000: "You're a heavy duty machine - act like it!!" And it does not. Because it is not.
What do you have now? I'm trying to sew 6 layers canvas sometimes 8 and I broke 2 singer 4432
I still have the HD3000. I don't sew denim any more. @@AmericaNeedsWeed
I wrote that my HD3000 is a sheep in wolf's clothing. Your experience demonstrates my point! It was made to sew until it breaks, and it wasn't made to sew through anything heavier than light denim. Beyond that, the machine is basically a ticking time bomb! I've converted my sewing space to all steel Kenmore sewing machines, and one Singer from the early 1950's, a 306K. It too has a .5 amp motor, but the difference between it and the Janome is night and day. And...that Singer machine only has plastic fashion discs and pedal (Bakelite, actually). Every last bit on it...rock solid metal. It's a shame manufacturers have chosen greed over quality.
@@AmericaNeedsWeedyou're not asking me, obviously, but I've stocked up my sewing area with all metal vintage Kenmore machines and a very nice old Singer. I keep my Singer electronic for any modern sewing, and my HD3000 is STILL in bits on the floor. I don't have the stomach to reassemble it.
@shopwornbear1171 mine broke lmao. Was the best until it broke
I was recommended this machine from my sewing shop. I mainly sew bags (I'm a beginner) and I work with canva, cotton and a strip of leather only here and there. Would this machine be good enough ? If not, do you recommend a machine specifically for less than $500. Thanks
I wouldn't recommend getting this machine for doing the kinds of projects you are looking to get into. A lot of shops recommend this machine because of the price. But it doesn't have good speed control for handling thick materials. Instead, you have two different options 1) A gently used Consew, Sailrite, or Thompson 2) A Juki TL series, or Brother straight stitch machine. They are often in the second hand market too. But, you may be able to get a brand new one with a coupon at sites like bed bath beyond/overstock online.
Having gone through so many machines and love machines. This model is standard.
Have you looked at the singer heavy duty?
Thank you, enjoy your videos
Yes, Iv looked at the singer. It will get tge job done. I find it to be on par with what janome currently offers on some of its base models.
Newer brushless motors are more powerful & more efficient. Cordless drills are brushless and have a lot more power but are smaller motors. One needs to look at the motors torque/hp ratings before judging one today.
This is a good piece of advice. Thank you 😀
I have the Janome 3000, I sew with alot of denim and now know it is not capable of sewing what I need it for. Very disappointed. What is the best HD sewing machine do you recommend, or industrial machine?
Thank you so much fir this information.
I've tested the singer heavy duty and the brother strong and tough and the brother is an absolute *beast*. Every version of the singers can go through denim easy enough but the brother can go through 8 layers of denim.
Thank you
If you mostly sewing denim, I would recommend going with a machine like Babylock Accomplish, Brother 1500, or Juki 2010q. These types of machines would do a better job of getting thru denim. Plus, they have more speed and modern features.
@@ThimbleBook thank you
Standard I have the Janome HD9. Do you have any info on it?
It is almost all metal, except for a big, white nylon gear on the main drive train. Not sure about the older models, but what they're selling now has a gear that will end up failing after X number of cycles. Actually found the photo I have on a Janome website. Not sure why they'd promote that, to be honest, but hey, at least it is honest.
@@shopwornbear1171 thanks!
Thank you for your opinion. I need a new machine and I am thoroughly confused. My older Singer refuses to sew more than 4 (maybe) layers. Needle jams or it just stalls. I'm so frustrated. I even have a walking foot, but the space between the throat plate and the presser foot is too small for much thickness. I want to buy a "good" machine. Any suggestions, anyone?
Perhaps its time to try a semi industrial straight stitch machine with the option to lift the foot up super high. Thanks for watching.
@@ThimbleBook - thank you for your response.
I have been sewing for 60+ years and recommend the Bernette b05 Academy...I love it!
Sure is a good looking machine!😊 but the info you show tells me that machine will not last 100+ years.😢
will you be alive in 100 years to verify this??? I'm guessing.......NOPE
No machine ever has, even old schools without being completely restored every 20yrs unless it's just for looks mainly. 100yrs, Really?
@@harryballz6358I have a Singer from 1898 on my bench as I write this. It's still in perfect working condition. Reason I have it on my bench? I'm converting it to a motor driven machine. Currently, it's a treadle setup. I have Kenmore machines from the 1950's that are still in as good condition today as they were the day they came off the showroom floor. If you maintain your machine with regular oiling, cleaning out what needs cleaning out after 8 hours of sewing, change your motor brushes when they need changing, buff out the bobbin hook if it sustains needle strikes, etc...if it is solid metal, it'll be here longer than you and I combined. Sorry to give you that, but an iron machine, even rusted out can be brought back from the dead if it is properly overhauled.