I am really impressed with the chain stitch on this machine. For a beginner’s to intermediate machine I like it. I have a low price end Janome MO645 DE. Between the 2 a person could sew really nice jeans. Very good home economical machines. Thanks for the video.
You’re welcome. A lot of folks are considering it. It will probably make a good machine for most applications. It’s probably ideal for your “travel” machine to take on vacation or to a quilt retreat.
Randy, in addition to your honesty, you are also MOST ENTERTAINING. As a "snarkist" myself, I totally understand and appreciate your snarkism. Keep them coming, dude. I'll stick to my Kenmore 158-1430. I probably paid less for it than the new all metal/ plastic Janome. Thanks, Randy.
Glad to provide a bit of comic relief. Some days you just have to have a little fun. The choices of machines for sale that are new, can be challenging. Nothing beats the good old days, as it relates to solid sewing machines.
"Hey Randy, just wrapped up your video-thanks for the candid insights, valuable tips, and the touch of sarcasm! I've been eyeing the Janome HD1000 and Singer 4432 for beginners, but your breakdown on the HD branding was eye-opening. Any suggestions for a new beginner-friendly machine that's truly worth it? Looking forward to your guidance!" Thanks again
You’re welcome. Every master and professional started as a noob. We either seek knowledge and information to advance, or remain noobs. Looks like you won’t be a noob for long. 👍😎
I would check the feed dogs and make sure they are in the “up” position. I don’t remember there being an adjustment for the the presser foot that’s easily done by the operator. If you raise the presser foot lever and it has the correct resistance, the problem is elsewhere.
Hi! I just found you and I'm so glad! Can you recommend a table top sewing machine that i could sew a few layers of garment leather together with? Doesn't need to have a ton of stitches, but should probably have all metal gears? Hopefully under 500 ish? Happy to search for a used machine!
For metal gears as a prerequisite, it will have to be a vintage Singer or Kenmore or the like. If you have to have a new machine, only commercial machines have metal gears. Any household machine is limited by the diameter of the thread. I have a few videos covering this topic as it’s probably what I get asked about the most. I just reviewed a machine called a no name HA-1. Made in Japan and very robust. Cast iron, steel, and chrome. I think it’s video 279. Well under $500. You can probably find one for under $100. There’s plenty of well made vintage machines from the 60’s and 70’s that will serve you well. Good luck. 😎
Thanks for this video, I'm looking at this machine to purchase from Costco. So I heard you say this machine is great for light fabrics, question how will it stand up to sewing military emblem patches on to a jacket or a vest? The jacket is leather and other lighter fabric materials.
I wouldn’t recommend this machine for that purpose. All my customers who sew on those patches use industrial machines. Using a new household type machine will be a challenge.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 Thank you for the quick response my primary purpose of the purchase was for the patches. I will continue to look for an industrial strength unit or send it all out to a specialist. Thank again Randy.
There’s not a big difference between the two. If you can’t find a better machine, ie a Kenmore 158 series or a Singer 404, etc, they’ll both make stitches for you. Just remember, they have their limits when it comes to heavy thread and heavy fabric. Good luck 🍀
What Janome or singer would you recommend that’s a heavy duty every day machine that’s QUIET something very satisfying about a quiet quality metal machine
There is no new Singer to recommend. See if you can find a 500-a or a 401-a Singer from the fifties. Any new Janome would be probably in the $500 to $1000 range. Not really heavy duty like an old Singer or Kenmore 158 series, but acceptable. I have videos on the Singers and the Kenmores that I recommend.
I have bought this machine and I’m working with woven tapestry’s. What needles/ threads as well as stitch length and tension do you recommend? For straight stitch and zig zag? Thank you love the video
The best needle size would be the one that has the least amount of flex in heavier fabrics. Start with a size 16 and that will probably work well. You will be limited with the size of thread that this machine will use successfully, as with any domestic/household type machine. Use an all purpose/dual duty thread and stay away from oversized threads. Have fun and good luck.
My 32 year old Kenmore made by Janome has no problem with nylon upholstery thread or heavier weight denim thread. I've reupholstered 2 sofas and three chairs. The tensions usually need to be adjusted, including the bobbin tension, for the heavier threads, usually no more than 1/4 turn on the tension screw of the bobbin case.
Hey randy, I mainly sew denim and workwear materials. What machine would you recommend for this? I’m open to an older or newer machine just looking for what would have fewest issues and error.
If your goal is to have the proper machine for your application, just skip all the household machines and get an industrial one. A Juki 555 or newer is what my customers swear by. A singer 31-15 will suffice, but has no reverse. If space is an issue, go with a Sailrite or similar. Many folks buy the wrong machine initially, because they believe the marketing hype that surrounds most “Heavy Duty” domestic household machines. If you’re going to make that error, at least get an old 15 class black singer side load, with the motor on the bracket, instead of the pot motor. (Similar to a 31-15, but has a reverse) It will have limitations, but it will have some value and practical use after you move on to the correct machine. If the one you’re thinking about buying has ANY PLASTIC on it at all, it’s not the one you want. That eliminates every household machine that was sold in the last 40 years. Your question is the one that I’ve been asked the most in the fifty years I’ve been in the business. If you find one that seems like a logical purchase, I’ll be glad to tell you what I think about it. Good luck.
Get an older Singer or Kenmore from the 50’s and 60’s. They will last forever and sew any household item with ease. I review several on my other videos at “Randy your sewing machine man”.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 You would think an old kenmore like a model 95 I have access to would be better at bag making than one of these or the janome hd9 or 3000?
@@meghanharper9875 is it a 148 or 158 prefix on the model number? If so, yes. It would be light years better than any new machine for durability and longevity. Go to the CZcams channel of “nifty thrifty girl” and she has a very glowing review. I agree with her almost always. Thanks for watching.
Consew 206-RB is my recommendation. If you can find a used 206-RB3 and earlier, they are good. A Juki LU-563 is a good one. A Pfaff 145 or 545 is pricey but awesome also. If you don’t need a reverse and are trying to go on the cheap, a Singer 111W will get the job done as well. The aforementioned machines are either copies of the 111W or similar in functionality. (With the exception being the Pfaff 145 and 545) German precision and excellence with the Pfaff industrial upholstery machines $$$$, but if you can get a used one in good shape you can save a bundle.
Hi Randy, I am a begginer on the sewing world, looking for a sewing machine, Ibam planning to give a constant usage to it, start a little business with the time, I AM between this janome black and the brother ST371HD, it worries me that the brother one is plastic and not metal and I AM looking to make the Best Buy posible, also if You have any recomendations I would thank You Even more, just found You and already watching all your videos
If your choice is limited to just those two, the Janome would be my pick. Hands down. The Janome is not considered “heavy duty” in my world, but the two words have become rather meaningless lately. Just hype and marketing. My opinion. Choose the Janome. Don’t use oversized thread and remember that every machine has its limitations regardless of brand name or what it’s made of.
Thank you for such a great review. I have been recently workin on small leather goods but my current machine has difficult time. I am considering a heavy duty machine like this one as well the Singer 6800c HD (found both for the same price). Would you prefere one over the other? Any info you could provide would be appreciated.
Neither. I have reviewed many machines that are as heavy duty as a household machine can be. That’s one of the goals of my channel is to help you avoid the hype. Don’t. Fall. For. It. 👍🏼😎
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 Hey Randy, thanks again for the info. I've been watching more of your videos and decided to look around for an old Kenmore instead. It sounds like I will be much happier with a solid machine. I found a 158.1680 for around $40 and thought I'd check it out. I didn't see any mention of this particular model in your videos but did watch the one advising us to steer clear of the 1690. Was curious if the 1680 had the same issue or if it truly has all metal gears. I also found a Kenmore 158.19461 for around the same price. Would be greatful any any input you may have. Thanks again for all you do.
@@tigva22 I recommend Kenmore 158 series that are front load, 15 class. If the one you’re thinking about purchasing has a drop in, top loading bobbin, you may have problems with that set up. Ie plastic drive gears.
Jeans are a real challenge for any machine. My industrial customers have a tough time on denim. It’s the ultimate challenge. Every machine has its limits. Sewing denim will help you find a machine’s limits quickly.
Hi Randy, im looking for a heavy duty sewing machine. How do you compare this janome and singer heavy duty hd6805c? I dont need many fancy stitches, just need a reliable workhorse. Or can you advise which one is the best heavy duty under 1000? Im working with light - medium weight fabrics. Many thanks.
Please watch a few of my videos where I give recommendations about truly heavy duty machines. If the machine you’re anticipating buying is a brand new sewing machine, it’s not a heavy duty one unless it’s an industrial one. Singer has copyrighted the name “heavy duty” and it has the same meaning as pretty, or blue. It’s just a descriptive term that has no quantitative value. There is no measurement of “duty”. It’s just someone’s opinion. My advice is also just my opinion based on 50 years of experience. Take your time and look for a used Kenmore 158 series that has a 15 class snap in bobbin. Those machines are as heavy duty as you would need for a household machine. Plastic machines with electronic components can’t be heavy duty in my opinion.
The 301, 401, 500-a, or any of the sub groups of those models will work well. As with any domestic, household type sewing machine, you’re limited by the thickness of the thread more so than the thickness of the fur or leather. Use a leather point needle and not a ball point. Garment leather or glove leather will be easy to sew. Leather comes in different thicknesses so don’t try and make a saddle. Not possible. LOL
That’s a perfect role for a decent backup machine. I encourage my customers to have a backup machine, especially after they call me in a panic with a deadline on a project. Thanks for watching and thanks for your positive comments.
Hi randy , since you have 48 years experience with sewing machines, would you please tell me if Janome HD 1000 is comparable with singer Heavy Duty 4452? Thank you.
Yes they are comparable. It would be a coin toss for me if I gave a recommendation between the two. Janome is usually more consistent with their quality control, so I might give the edge to Janome. There are actual Janome dealers still out there, so there’s also the advantage of buying it locally and having dealer support. Thanks for watching.
Get the Singer needle #2045 for sewing stretch materials. Or, Schmetz makes the same needle and on the package is says S-T-R-E-T-C-H. Get the needles in a size 14, or 12 if that’s all you can find.
Thanks, I bought this because it was heavy duty all metal. I’m not crazy about it. For heavy duty sewing I would rather use old singer or Kenmore. I don’t like the way the machine threads. I also don’t like that it uses plastic bobbins.
It’s not a bad machine. It’s as good as most modern machines these days. Unfortunately, that’s not a real high standard. The only good thing about plastic bobbins is the quality control is better. They’re molded and not fabricated. They’re less like to cause a malfunction due to faulty specs and dimensions.
I don’t think so. Presser foot adjusters we’re the first casualty of cost cutting on the new plastic machines. That’s why I recommend getting a full featured vintage one.
Does any newer machines have real metal internal parts? I need a good machine for my business. I'll be sewing mostly lightweight fabric sometimes up to 4 layers. Any suggestions? I was looking real hard at this one until you opened the top and its all plastic inside
Plastic parts are a reality in every new machine. Whether or not they cause a problem is determined by where they are located in the machine. Knobs and dials usually are ok to be plastic unless they get bumped or banged around. Pattern cams have been plastic for over 50 years and they hardly ever break. Drive gears need to be metal if they get a lot of use. Light or heavy fabrics really don’t make much difference in the long run. Plastic will break eventually. The Janome (in my review) will be a good machine as long as you don’t over do it. It’s as good or better than most of what’s out there. All this is just my informed opinion based on 48 years of experience.
It may be more precision than many top loads. Metal is machined to a specification, whereas plastic is formed in a mold. The front loads have metal parts, the top loads are more plastic. If you keep a drop of oil on the hook/race assembly, it will keep it running young.😎
how do you open it's top? i just started using this sewing machine and sometimes it does a loud "clack" sound and everything stops, the string gets cut and no matter how long i press the pedal it does not work. I then manually move it with the wheel on the right and it works for 5minutes until it does the same.
Maybe the thread is oversized? Try using a dual duty/all purpose thread. Put the tension on four. Put the needle flat side to the rear. Be sure it’s threaded correctly. Good luck.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 i can see with the cellphone flashlight that a lot of thread is getting tangled up on the part at the right of where u normally thread the string.. that has to do something with it but I don't know what it is, I would like to open its top to remove all the tangled strings, which screw do u unscrew to remove its top?
@@pinkbalem take the left side cover off with a single screw in the center usually if it doesn’t swing open to the left. Gently pull on a loose end of the thread and turn the machine hand wheel away from you as you unwind the thread. Don’t pull too hard or you will make it impossible to unwind and you’ll need a seam ripper to cut the threads loose.
Great video! Do you think theres something this machine is missing thats really important for a not so beginner?? im planning on buying it and would really appreciate your knowledge. Also, between the Janome HD1000 and the Janome 1522PG which one do u think will be better at contenting a person with just basic knowledge??
Just found your videos on CZcams. Looking to buy a sewing machine for quilting I'm fairly new but don't know where to begin every store tells me something different what machine would you suggest?
If you can’t find a good used Kenmore 158 series, or a vintage Singer 401 or 500-A, I recommend either a Janome, a Juki, or a Bernina. Don’t get their cheapie one that’s made in China. I prefer a 15 class front load over a drop in bobbin type. Probably will be in the $300 to $400 range with the Janome or Juki. The Berninas are rather pricey. Their entry level quality machine is at $1400. They also have the Bernette line of machines but I don’t know if they have any that are non China manufactured. Good luck.
@@pattiking1313 if you can’t find a better one. This one will do the job nicely. Just remember, the two words “heavy” and “duty” when placed side by side are just adjectives like pretty and precious. They mean nothing really that is quantitative. That, of course, is just my opinion based on 49 years of experience. Your mileage may vary.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 I just heard you say that in your video about the heavy-duty just a sales pitch you said. Lol..I'll probably get whatever you tell me to get. If you were buying one for a family member, what one would you get?
Unfortunately the answer to all three is no. It’s just a regular sewing machine for sewing shirts, blouses, Jammie’s, pillowcases, and for quilting. If you’re looking for a household type machine that does heavy sewing, I have videos on machines that I recommend. But……they also have their limitations, just like every machine has its limitations. If you need to sew with industrial thread, like a 69 nylon, get an industrial machine like a Consew 206RB or similar If you want one that’s smaller or portable, look at the SAILRITE line of machines. They’re pricey, but they fill that niche rather nicely.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 ok. Do you think that the Janome HD9 may also be adequate? I’m just a home sewer not professional but I do my own family’s alterations including denim and canvas material. Thank you kindly
@@Kindlyone777 the Janome HD9 is getting closer to what you’re looking for. The only way to ever be sure of any sewing machine’s capabilities and limitations, is to sew on the actual fabric with the actual thread you want to use. Anything less than that is conjecture and guessing. Find one at a nearby dealer and give it a test sew. For that kind of money, that’s just being logical. If you’re too far from a “hands on” buying experience, make sure that the online seller has a return policy that works for you as well. Good luck.
It’s a customer’s machine that is in the shop for service, and not for sale. I see them for sale online. The prices vary, whether they are new or used. 😎👍🏼
Hello Randy, I've been looking for a way to contact you since seeing your CZcams vid about the Elna 3005. No comments allowed on that one. And I found your web site and no email or other link there, either. So I'm coming this way round. :) My problem is we have an Elna 3003 which won't reverse. And I can't get the bottom off. Just need a little help with some instructions on how to get it off. It doesn't seem to come off the way others do in the couple of vids I've seen about fixing that problem which were vids about Elna 3000 series but not exactly the 3003. Then I might be able to fix it. Perhaps it's just a case of exert more force. You know how it is with 'snap on' plastic panels and such: without knowing what's doing we get nervous about pulling on them too much... Can you help with that at all? regards, ab and thanks for your vids. :)
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 HI, thanks for the reply. I did a 'reply' on the email i got, don't know if that worked? Since then I've found the video you mentioned: czcams.com/video/jWn5ZW2APY0/video.html and I've looked at it and it doesn't quite match. It doesn't seem to have the same underneath as mine or they've got a piece off without showing how. Here's what mine is like and the problem is I can't clearly see how to 'unmask' the bit where you fix the reverse. That video is great once you get in there. But how did they get in there? I've put a pic of mine here: imgur.com/a/E2XLhqV
Sometimes the plastic panels just snap apart after all the fasteners are removed. If you try to remove a panel and it won’t snap apart, it might be because a fastener is still installed and it’s hard to find. Sometimes they go in opposite directions.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 For anyone else who might have my problem: I've solved it. there is no problem. The left hand part of the machine there just pulls off by design. Leaving a sort of 'arm' which you could push inside a pants leg or a sleeve, or rather if you like pull the leg or sleeve over it. And sew. A feature I didn't even know it had. Just pull that whole plastic bit, it's quite large, and pull it off to the left. Then the 'arm' has this cover panel underneath held by only two largish screws. Take that off and there's the reversing gear thing. I WD40'd mine and sewing machine oiled it and worked it back and forward again and again and made some progress. But it still wasn't good enough for practical work. I figure that's because when you move it from underneath when the machine is not working the mechanism cannot move all the way to the left to interlock with the dogs on the shaft. It only gets to do that when it is 'live'. So with mine when 'live' it would slowly, slowly move into reverse. You could watch those tractor tread things on the needle plate. And I just had to do that many, many time. Holding the reverse lever down and letting it slowly move until it got there. And I guess as it moved it moved some of the oil and wd40 solvent with it and slowly lubricated that part of the shaft I hadn't been able to lubricate. So it got to where it would move all the way but If I wanted to sew with it I'd have to stop sewing and give it a moment to shift over. Until eventually, this morning, I can shift into reverse at full speed. It's all loosened up. You beauty. :) Thanks for your help Randy.
Did you move the lever to place your feeders in the up position? I believe it’s just to the right of your bobbin case area. Open the flap cover and it should be right there.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 i did not, did some research and that’s exactly what it said, to move the lever, I’m not at home but I’m sure that is where I failed and I will try that, thank you so much for responding, you’re most likely correct.
Like most new machines, it has a substantial metal frame. I’ve never seen a metal frame failure in a household type sewing machine in 49 years. It’s not a frame issue that will be your ultimate concern as a buyer. Most likely, a plastic (nylon) part that is part of the gear mechanism will be where the problem occurs. But then, only if the operator of the sewing machines exceeds the machines designed purpose and capabilities. Don’t fall for the “Heavy Duty” gambit and try to sew heavy leather or denim on a daily basis. It will result in breakage usually.
Hi Randy, thx for your honesty. I bought HD 3000 BE after two weeks feet willl not stay on and plastic lever for releasing foot fell off. Any idea why feet will not latch? Thanks
Just got one free with a sewing table that fits any machine for 10 bucks! ❤ I have enough machines but I will never say no to one😂 I got the GIDGET 2 table ❤ score thank u fb
Ah man sorry for my rant, but its make me crazy the thing litteralty moving itself how its speed, and i cant control it its weird@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954
They are careful in their ads to be sure there are no legal ramifications for any misrepresentations of quality or performance. Good advertising people live by insinuation and innuendo. The buying public hear what they want to believe, as opposed to what is actually stated. It’s always been that way, and will continue until there’s a public uproar. The sewing machine market is so small and unobserved by regulators, that this stuff proceeds unabated. That’s why we have to look out for others, as well as ourselves, to keep consumers informed.👍😎
I am really impressed with the chain stitch on this machine. For a beginner’s to intermediate machine I like it. I have a low price end Janome MO645 DE. Between the 2 a person could sew really nice jeans. Very good home economical machines. Thanks for the video.
You’re welcome
I was wondering about this model. Thanks for the review!
You’re welcome. A lot of folks are considering it. It will probably make a good machine for most applications. It’s probably ideal for your “travel” machine to take on vacation or to a quilt retreat.
Randy, in addition to your honesty, you are also MOST ENTERTAINING. As a "snarkist" myself, I totally understand and appreciate your snarkism. Keep them coming, dude. I'll stick to my Kenmore 158-1430. I probably paid less for it than the new all metal/ plastic Janome. Thanks, Randy.
Glad to provide a bit of comic relief. Some days you just have to have a little fun. The choices of machines for sale that are new, can be challenging.
Nothing beats the good old days, as it relates to solid sewing machines.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 AMEN, brother
"Hey Randy, just wrapped up your video-thanks for the candid insights, valuable tips, and the touch of sarcasm! I've been eyeing the Janome HD1000 and Singer 4432 for beginners, but your breakdown on the HD branding was eye-opening. Any suggestions for a new beginner-friendly machine that's truly worth it? Looking forward to your guidance!"
Thanks again
Get a Kenmore 158 series that’s a front load, 15 class.
A good alternative would be a Singer 403-A or any other Slantamatic from that era. 😎👍🏼
Thank you for your review
You’re welcome. Thanks for watching.
Noob Here! Thank you for the fun review. Soo helpful!
You’re welcome. Every master and professional started as a noob. We either seek knowledge and information to advance, or remain noobs.
Looks like you won’t be a noob for long. 👍😎
Hello. Thanks for this video. Any idea how to adjust presser foot pressure? The fabric is not moving at all. I have to assist so the fabric moves.
I would check the feed dogs and make sure they are in the “up” position. I don’t remember there being an adjustment for the the presser foot that’s easily done by the operator.
If you raise the presser foot lever and it has the correct resistance, the problem is elsewhere.
Can you do a how-to on converting the hand wheel to treadle?
I’ll look into it. Thanks for the suggestion.
Hi! I just found you and I'm so glad! Can you recommend a table top sewing machine that i could sew a few layers of garment leather together with? Doesn't need to have a ton of stitches, but should probably have all metal gears? Hopefully under 500 ish? Happy to search for a used machine!
For metal gears as a prerequisite, it will have to be a vintage Singer or Kenmore or the like. If you have to have a new machine, only commercial machines have metal gears.
Any household machine is limited by the diameter of the thread.
I have a few videos covering this topic as it’s probably what I get asked about the most.
I just reviewed a machine called a no name HA-1. Made in Japan and very robust. Cast iron, steel, and chrome.
I think it’s video 279. Well under $500. You can probably find one for under $100.
There’s plenty of well made vintage machines from the 60’s and 70’s that will serve you well. Good luck. 😎
Thank you for this video..
You’re welcome.
Thanks for this video, I'm looking at this machine to purchase from Costco. So I heard you say this machine is great for light fabrics, question how will it stand up to sewing military emblem patches on to a jacket or a vest? The jacket is leather and other lighter fabric materials.
I wouldn’t recommend this machine for that purpose. All my customers who sew on those patches use industrial machines. Using a new household type machine will be a challenge.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 Thank you for the quick response my primary purpose of the purchase was for the patches. I will continue to look for an industrial strength unit or send it all out to a specialist. Thank again Randy.
@@michaeldawson8592 your welcome. Take them to an alteration shop and they will do it pro style.
Thanks buddy
You’re welcome and thanks for watching.
Can you spare a few words on comparison to 2212 model??
Thanks for the review!
There’s not a big difference between the two. If you can’t find a better machine, ie a Kenmore 158 series or a Singer 404, etc, they’ll both make stitches for you. Just remember, they have their limits when it comes to heavy thread and heavy fabric. Good luck 🍀
What Janome or singer would you recommend that’s a heavy duty every day machine that’s QUIET something very satisfying about a quiet quality metal machine
There is no new Singer to recommend. See if you can find a 500-a or a 401-a Singer from the fifties.
Any new Janome would be probably in the $500 to $1000 range. Not really heavy duty like an old Singer or Kenmore 158 series, but acceptable. I have videos on the Singers and the Kenmores that I recommend.
I have bought this machine and I’m working with woven tapestry’s. What needles/ threads as well as stitch length and tension do you recommend? For straight stitch and zig zag? Thank you love the video
The best needle size would be the one that has the least amount of flex in heavier fabrics. Start with a size 16 and that will probably work well.
You will be limited with the size of thread that this machine will use successfully, as with any domestic/household type machine. Use an all purpose/dual duty thread and stay away from oversized threads.
Have fun and good luck.
My 32 year old Kenmore made by Janome has no problem with nylon upholstery thread or heavier weight denim thread. I've reupholstered 2 sofas and three chairs. The tensions usually need to be adjusted, including the bobbin tension, for the heavier threads, usually no more than 1/4 turn on the tension screw of the bobbin case.
Hey randy, I mainly sew denim and workwear materials. What machine would you recommend for this? I’m open to an older or newer machine just looking for what would have fewest issues and error.
If your goal is to have the proper machine for your application, just skip all the household machines and get an industrial one.
A Juki 555 or newer is what my customers swear by. A singer 31-15 will suffice, but has no reverse.
If space is an issue, go with a Sailrite or similar.
Many folks buy the wrong machine initially, because they believe the marketing hype that surrounds most “Heavy Duty” domestic household machines.
If you’re going to make that error, at least get an old 15 class black singer side load, with the motor on the bracket, instead of the pot motor. (Similar to a 31-15, but has a reverse) It will have limitations, but it will have some value and practical use after you move on to the correct machine.
If the one you’re thinking about buying has ANY PLASTIC on it at all, it’s not the one you want.
That eliminates every household machine that was sold in the last 40 years.
Your question is the one that I’ve been asked the most in the fifty years I’ve been in the business.
If you find one that seems like a logical purchase, I’ll be glad to tell you what I think about it.
Good luck.
Any recommendations for strong machine that won’t break from constant use? Thank you for the honesty it really helps !
Get an older Singer or Kenmore from the 50’s and 60’s. They will last forever and sew any household item with ease. I review several on my other videos at “Randy your sewing machine man”.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954
You would think an old kenmore like a model 95 I have access to would be better at bag making than one of these or the janome hd9 or 3000?
@@meghanharper9875 is it a 148 or 158 prefix on the model number? If so, yes. It would be light years better than any new machine for durability and longevity.
Go to the CZcams channel of “nifty thrifty girl” and she has a very glowing review. I agree with her almost always.
Thanks for watching.
Hi. I’m looking for a machine that can perform best for boat upholstery. What do you advise?
Consew 206-RB is my recommendation. If you can find a used 206-RB3 and earlier, they are good.
A Juki LU-563 is a good one.
A Pfaff 145 or 545 is pricey but awesome also.
If you don’t need a reverse and are trying to go on the cheap, a Singer 111W will get the job done as well.
The aforementioned machines are either copies of the 111W or similar in functionality. (With the exception being the Pfaff 145 and 545) German precision and excellence with the Pfaff industrial upholstery machines $$$$, but if you can get a used one in good shape you can save a bundle.
Hi Randy, I am a begginer on the sewing world, looking for a sewing machine, Ibam planning to give a constant usage to it, start a little business with the time, I AM between this janome black and the brother ST371HD, it worries me that the brother one is plastic and not metal and I AM looking to make the Best Buy posible, also if You have any recomendations I would thank You Even more, just found You and already watching all your videos
If your choice is limited to just those two, the Janome would be my pick. Hands down. The Janome is not considered “heavy duty” in my world, but the two words have become rather meaningless lately. Just hype and marketing. My opinion. Choose the Janome. Don’t use oversized thread and remember that every machine has its limitations regardless of brand name or what it’s made of.
Thank you for such a great review. I have been recently workin on small leather goods but my current machine has difficult time. I am considering a heavy duty machine like this one as well the Singer 6800c HD (found both for the same price). Would you prefere one over the other? Any info you could provide would be appreciated.
Neither.
I have reviewed many machines that are as heavy duty as a household machine can be.
That’s one of the goals of my channel is to help you avoid the hype.
Don’t. Fall. For. It.
👍🏼😎
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 Hey Randy, thanks again for the info. I've been watching more of your videos and decided to look around for an old Kenmore instead. It sounds like I will be much happier with a solid machine. I found a 158.1680 for around $40 and thought I'd check it out. I didn't see any mention of this particular model in your videos but did watch the one advising us to steer clear of the 1690. Was curious if the 1680 had the same issue or if it truly has all metal gears. I also found a Kenmore 158.19461 for around the same price. Would be greatful any any input you may have. Thanks again for all you do.
@@tigva22 I recommend Kenmore 158 series that are front load, 15 class.
If the one you’re thinking about purchasing has a drop in, top loading bobbin, you may have problems with that set up. Ie plastic drive gears.
Hi Randy, how do you think it would do against Cordura, nylon straps and threads ? (500D and 1000D)
I’ve tried it and it didn’t turn out well.
Will it hem jeans! If not I’m returning it to Costco because they showed that it would easily! What about the 3000 or 4 or 5? Please!???
Jeans are a real challenge for any machine. My industrial customers have a tough time on denim. It’s the ultimate challenge. Every machine has its limits. Sewing denim will help you find a machine’s limits quickly.
I just want to know what activates the start of sewing. There are no foot pedals, so what moves the needle to sew
If a machine doesn’t have the foot control plugged in, it can often be operated by touching the start/stop button on the front control panel.
Why is the 4-step buttonhole your favorite compared to the 1-step?
Using a standard square sliding buttonhole guide, it tends to make better looking buttonholes more consistently. At least, when I do them.
Hi Randy, im looking for a heavy duty sewing machine. How do you compare this janome and singer heavy duty hd6805c? I dont need many fancy stitches, just need a reliable workhorse. Or can you advise which one is the best heavy duty under 1000? Im working with light - medium weight fabrics. Many thanks.
Please watch a few of my videos where I give recommendations about truly heavy duty machines. If the machine you’re anticipating buying is a brand new sewing machine, it’s not a heavy duty one unless it’s an industrial one. Singer has copyrighted the name “heavy duty” and it has the same meaning as pretty, or blue. It’s just a descriptive term that has no quantitative value. There is no measurement of “duty”. It’s just someone’s opinion. My advice is also just my opinion based on 50 years of experience.
Take your time and look for a used Kenmore 158 series that has a 15 class snap in bobbin.
Those machines are as heavy duty as you would need for a household machine.
Plastic machines with electronic components can’t be heavy duty in my opinion.
Mr. Randy, I would like to sew leather and thick fur. Which slant needle Singer is tough enough for the job? Thanks~
The 301, 401, 500-a, or any of the sub groups of those models will work well. As with any domestic, household type sewing machine, you’re limited by the thickness of the thread more so than the thickness of the fur or leather. Use a leather point needle and not a ball point. Garment leather or glove leather will be easy to sew. Leather comes in different thicknesses so don’t try and make a saddle. Not possible. LOL
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 Thank you...oh, and no saddles..got it. 😂
@@tuesdayschild7899 👍🏼
I like mine for a back up when my 50 year old Kenmore is in the shop.
That’s a perfect role for a decent backup machine. I encourage my customers to have a backup machine, especially after they call me in a panic with a deadline on a project.
Thanks for watching and thanks for your positive comments.
Hi randy , since you have 48 years experience with sewing machines, would you please tell me if Janome HD 1000 is comparable with singer Heavy Duty 4452? Thank you.
Yes they are comparable. It would be a coin toss for me if I gave a recommendation between the two. Janome is usually more consistent with their quality control, so I might give the edge to Janome. There are actual Janome dealers still out there, so there’s also the advantage of buying it locally and having dealer support.
Thanks for watching.
I have problem seeing stretch material on this machine what do I do?
Get the Singer needle #2045 for sewing stretch materials.
Or, Schmetz makes the same needle and on the package is says
S-T-R-E-T-C-H. Get the needles in a size 14, or 12 if that’s all you can find.
Thanks, I bought this because it was heavy duty all metal. I’m not crazy about it. For heavy duty sewing I would rather use old singer or Kenmore. I don’t like the way the machine threads. I also don’t like that it uses plastic bobbins.
Thanks for showing it’s not all metal!
It’s not a bad machine. It’s as good as most modern machines these days. Unfortunately, that’s not a real high standard. The only good thing about plastic bobbins is the quality control is better. They’re molded and not fabricated. They’re less like to cause a malfunction due to faulty specs and dimensions.
Does this Janome HD 1000 have a presser foot adjustment?
I don’t think so. Presser foot adjusters we’re the first casualty of cost cutting on the new plastic machines.
That’s why I recommend getting a full featured vintage one.
Does any newer machines have real metal internal parts? I need a good machine for my business. I'll be sewing mostly lightweight fabric sometimes up to 4 layers. Any suggestions? I was looking real hard at this one until you opened the top and its all plastic inside
Plastic parts are a reality in every new machine. Whether or not they cause a problem is determined by where they are located in the machine.
Knobs and dials usually are ok to be plastic unless they get bumped or banged around.
Pattern cams have been plastic for over 50 years and they hardly ever break.
Drive gears need to be metal if they get a lot of use. Light or heavy fabrics really don’t make much difference in the long run.
Plastic will break eventually.
The Janome (in my review) will be a good machine as long as you don’t over do it. It’s as good or better than most of what’s out there.
All this is just my informed opinion based on 48 years of experience.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 Thank you so much
@@naturegirl2110 you’re welcome
Ah, of course! The all-metal plastic and nylon... That really made me laugh, thank you LOL
You’re welcome. A lot of folks are unaware of the special processes required to conjure up these super high tech materials. LOL thanks
Question: is this machine quieter because of the front load bobbin? Thanks!
It may be more precision than many top loads. Metal is machined to a specification, whereas plastic is formed in a mold. The front loads have metal parts, the top loads are more plastic.
If you keep a drop of oil on the hook/race assembly, it will keep it running young.😎
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 Thank you!
@@rorilee9791 you’re welcome 😎
What would be a good quality walking foot mashine to sew canvas please?
My favorite commercial walking foot machine is the Consew 206-RB. Get an old used one or a new one. Great machine.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954thanks. They are hard to get here in Australia 😓
@@ralph9987 can you order one online and get it shipped to you or is that cost prohibitive?
There’s always the SAILRITE sewing machine. They are smaller and portable but do well.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 costs an arm and a leg, plus 1 kidney. Cheaper buying a clone from China
how do you open it's top? i just started using this sewing machine and sometimes it does a loud "clack" sound and everything stops, the string gets cut and no matter how long i press the pedal it does not work. I then manually move it with the wheel on the right and it works for 5minutes until it does the same.
Maybe the thread is oversized? Try using a dual duty/all purpose thread. Put the tension on four. Put the needle flat side to the rear. Be sure it’s threaded correctly. Good luck.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 i can see with the cellphone flashlight that a lot of thread is getting tangled up on the part at the right of where u normally thread the string.. that has to do something with it but I don't know what it is, I would like to open its top to remove all the tangled strings, which screw do u unscrew to remove its top?
@@pinkbalem take the left side cover off with a single screw in the center usually if it doesn’t swing open to the left.
Gently pull on a loose end of the thread and turn the machine hand wheel away from you as you unwind the thread. Don’t pull too hard or you will make it impossible to unwind and you’ll need a seam ripper to cut the threads loose.
@@pinkbalem lift the handle and there’s two screws to remove and remove the top.
Could this machine perform like an industrial sewing machine to a capacity?
Absolutely not. Not even close. It’s just an average household sewing machine.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 Thank you!
@@Jaysnipes you’re welcome.
Do you think I could make cloth diapers with this?
Don’t know about that. If I had to guess, I’d say no.
Hi Randy, after two wks with HD3000 feet will not latch. Can u advise?
You might need another presser foot adapter if the one you have is broken.
Thank u. Where can I get one?
@@donnabergamin1399 sewing parts online.com
Great video! Do you think theres something this machine is missing thats really important for a not so beginner?? im planning on buying it and would really appreciate your knowledge. Also, between the Janome HD1000 and the Janome 1522PG which one do u think will be better at contenting a person with just basic knowledge??
The Janome HD1000 is a good machine for a beginner or intermediate level sewer. Plenty of features but simple to master.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 Thank you so much! do you think there's an ever better machine within the same price range?
@@pinkbalem at this price point, I don’t know of any new machines with any features that are better than this one.
Just found your videos on CZcams. Looking to buy a sewing machine for quilting I'm fairly new but don't know where to begin every store tells me something different what machine would you suggest?
I like this ones look would you suggest this one?
If you can’t find a good used Kenmore 158 series, or a vintage Singer 401 or 500-A, I recommend either a Janome, a Juki, or a Bernina. Don’t get their cheapie one that’s made in China. I prefer a 15 class front load over a drop in bobbin type. Probably will be in the $300 to $400 range with the Janome or Juki. The Berninas are rather pricey. Their entry level quality machine is at $1400. They also have the Bernette line of machines but I don’t know if they have any that are non China manufactured. Good luck.
@@pattiking1313 if you can’t find a better one. This one will do the job nicely. Just remember, the two words “heavy” and “duty” when placed side by side are just adjectives like pretty and precious. They mean nothing really that is quantitative.
That, of course, is just my opinion based on 49 years of experience. Your mileage may vary.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 I just heard you say that in your video about the heavy-duty just a sales pitch you said. Lol..I'll probably get whatever you tell me to get. If you were buying one for a family member, what one would you get?
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 thank you so much I appreciate you thanks
Will this sew through several layers of denim or leather? Will it take industrial thread? Thank you
Unfortunately the answer to all three is no.
It’s just a regular sewing machine for sewing shirts, blouses, Jammie’s, pillowcases, and for quilting.
If you’re looking for a household type machine that does heavy sewing, I have videos on machines that I recommend. But……they also have their limitations, just like every machine has its limitations.
If you need to sew with industrial thread, like a 69 nylon, get an industrial machine like a Consew 206RB or similar
If you want one that’s smaller or portable, look at the SAILRITE line of machines. They’re pricey, but they fill that niche rather nicely.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 ok. Do you think that the Janome HD9 may also be adequate? I’m just a home sewer not professional but I do my own family’s alterations including denim and canvas material. Thank you kindly
@@Kindlyone777 the Janome HD9 is getting closer to what you’re looking for.
The only way to ever be sure of any sewing machine’s capabilities and limitations, is to sew on the actual fabric with the actual thread you want to use.
Anything less than that is conjecture and guessing.
Find one at a nearby dealer and give it a test sew. For that kind of money, that’s just being logical.
If you’re too far from a “hands on” buying experience, make sure that the online seller has a return policy that works for you as well.
Good luck.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 thank you!
@@Kindlyone777 you’re welcome.
I have a heavy duty singer bought couple years ago. Not . all plastic. Very disappointed in it. Live and learn I guess.
We’ve all been taken in by less than accurate marketing claims. Just sew lightweight projects and make the best of it , I guess.
Por favor donde se puede adquirir y el costo I need to buy please how many and where there is machine
It’s a customer’s machine that is in the shop for service, and not for sale.
I see them for sale online.
The prices vary, whether they are new or used. 😎👍🏼
Hello Randy,
I've been looking for a way to contact you since seeing your CZcams vid about the Elna 3005. No comments allowed on that one. And I found your web site and no email or other link there, either. So I'm coming this way round. :)
My problem is we have an Elna 3003 which won't reverse. And I can't get the bottom off. Just need a little help with some instructions on how to get it off. It doesn't seem to come off the way others do in the couple of vids I've seen about fixing that problem which were vids about Elna 3000 series but not exactly the 3003.
Then I might be able to fix it.
Perhaps it's just a case of exert more force. You know how it is with 'snap on' plastic panels and such: without knowing what's doing we get nervous about pulling on them too much...
Can you help with that at all?
regards,
ab
and thanks for your vids. :)
There’s a CZcams video titled “Elna 3003 repair tips” that addresses all those issues.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 HI, thanks for the reply. I did a 'reply' on the email i got, don't know if that worked? Since then I've found the video you mentioned: czcams.com/video/jWn5ZW2APY0/video.html and I've looked at it and it doesn't quite match. It doesn't seem to have the same underneath as mine or they've got a piece off without showing how. Here's what mine is like and the problem is I can't clearly see how to 'unmask' the bit where you fix the reverse. That video is great once you get in there. But how did they get in there? I've put a pic of mine here: imgur.com/a/E2XLhqV
Sometimes the plastic panels just snap apart after all the fasteners are removed. If you try to remove a panel and it won’t snap apart, it might be because a fastener is still installed and it’s hard to find. Sometimes they go in opposite directions.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 O.K. thanks. I'll try again. Carefully and inspecting closely.... :)
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 For anyone else who might have my problem: I've solved it. there is no problem. The left hand part of the machine there just pulls off by design. Leaving a sort of 'arm' which you could push inside a pants leg or a sleeve, or rather if you like pull the leg or sleeve over it. And sew.
A feature I didn't even know it had.
Just pull that whole plastic bit, it's quite large, and pull it off to the left.
Then the 'arm' has this cover panel underneath held by only two largish screws. Take that off and there's the reversing gear thing. I WD40'd mine and sewing machine oiled it and worked it back and forward again and again and made some progress.
But it still wasn't good enough for practical work.
I figure that's because when you move it from underneath when the machine is not working the mechanism cannot move all the way to the left to interlock with the dogs on the shaft.
It only gets to do that when it is 'live'.
So with mine when 'live' it would slowly, slowly move into reverse. You could watch those tractor tread things on the needle plate. And I just had to do that many, many time. Holding the reverse lever down and letting it slowly move until it got there.
And I guess as it moved it moved some of the oil and wd40 solvent with it and slowly lubricated that part of the shaft I hadn't been able to lubricate.
So it got to where it would move all the way but If I wanted to sew with it I'd have to stop sewing and give it a moment to shift over.
Until eventually, this morning, I can shift into reverse at full speed. It's all loosened up.
You beauty. :)
Thanks for your help Randy.
I just got this machine and the dog feed doesn’t move up to feed the fabric packing it to send back
Did you move the lever to place your feeders in the up position? I believe it’s just to the right of your bobbin case area. Open the flap cover and it should be right there.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 i did not, did some research and that’s exactly what it said, to move the lever, I’m not at home but I’m sure that is where I failed and I will try that, thank you so much for responding, you’re most likely correct.
@@valntna2425 I hope it’s as simple as that. It’s a good little machine for what it’s designed to do.
except the top, is the rest of the body plastic or steel?
Like most new machines, it has a substantial metal frame. I’ve never seen a metal frame failure in a household type sewing machine in 49 years. It’s not a frame issue that will be your ultimate concern as a buyer. Most likely, a plastic (nylon) part that is part of the gear mechanism will be where the problem occurs. But then, only if the operator of the sewing machines exceeds the machines designed purpose and capabilities. Don’t fall for the “Heavy Duty” gambit and try to sew heavy leather or denim on a daily basis. It will result in breakage usually.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 thank you! oh also, how many watt is the motor?
@@joonsrightbooby7262 I don’t know the wattage of the motor. I imagine that information is available at the Janome website.
Hi Randy, thx for your honesty. I bought HD 3000 BE after two weeks feet willl not stay on and plastic lever for releasing foot fell off. Any idea why feet will not latch?
Thanks
Just got one free with a sewing table that fits any machine for 10 bucks! ❤ I have enough machines but I will never say no to one😂 I got the GIDGET 2 table ❤ score thank u fb
You can start a sewing machine rescue service. Fix them up and rehome them.
You wouldn’t be the first to do so.
Please price
I’m not understanding your comment. Sorry.
i have bought the Janome LC7500K it's way too speed, i cant do nothing with it
It’s a good machine.
Someone, somewhere, wants to sew real fast.
They’ll buy it.
Ah man sorry for my rant, but its make me crazy the thing litteralty moving itself how its speed, and i cant control it its weird@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954
In other words they lying because it has cheap plastic parts that break
They are careful in their ads to be sure there are no legal ramifications for any misrepresentations of quality or performance. Good advertising people live by insinuation and innuendo. The buying public hear what they want to believe, as opposed to what is actually stated.
It’s always been that way, and will continue until there’s a public uproar.
The sewing machine market is so small and unobserved by regulators, that this stuff proceeds unabated.
That’s why we have to look out for others, as well as ourselves, to keep consumers informed.👍😎
Yes, they are careful to say "All-Metal BODY" *eyeroll*