You Don't Need as Many Clamps as You Think
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- čas přidán 24. 02. 2023
- You can never have too many clamps, but you certainly can use the ones you have more efficiently.
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I've been a hobby wood worker for 55 years (since high school). I enjoy learning better ways to do something in my shop. Your videos are excellent and I learn something from each one. What makes you stand out from other channels is how you explain why a technique you use is better than the way I was doing it. Your presentation is on par with your craftsmanship.
My takeaway from this is that your clamps should always be significantly longer than the widest panel you wish to create
The things you share are always helpful. I love how you are not just throwing up the same old techniques just to get some new content out. My grandfather used to always say that there are two kinds of people in this world: those that have something to say, and those that just have to same something.
Love it! I would have loved your grandfather! 😅
Never regretted subscribing to this channel. Innovative and well-presented idea every time.
I usually try to use extra boards on the outside that my clamps make contact with for two reasons. One is so the clamps don't mark the project. Two, to spread out the clamping force. You using those 90deg pieces makes it much more clear how the clamping force is working. Thanks for tip.
You are my favorite woodworking instructor. That's how I feel when I watch your vids and I'm always a better WW as a result.
Love it. As always, another super useful tip. You are leading the way in providing insightful, innovative solutions to woodworking tasks!
Top notch details on the clamping pressures and it all makes sense. Thank you for sharing.
Useful and informative as always. You never recycle the same stuff everyone else is doing.
That is a great way to show how clamping works. What a great tip!
Spot on, this is why my bessey k body revo 50'' clamps are my favorite and I do amazing builds with just 2 of them. 👍
Pretty cool concept, and it illustrates the clamping coverage well. Learned something today.
I appreciate how this channel is short and to the point. New sub
Very helpful. Makes perfect sense when explained like this. Agree that one can never have too many clamps but…can’t always afford them….good knowing might be able to do it with less. Thank you
Another very functional method is the use a sprung caul. You can combine them by keeping a couple 4" wide boards around that are at least as thick is your most common panel glue-ups and shave 1/32 off each end with a hand plane. then put the bowed side into your pannel and clamp the ends. That's a good place to start, but a little experimentation will get you the right amount to remove to get the right amount of spring to put on your cauls. You can also make wooden I-beams if you don't have stock thick or stiff enough for making cauls. Stiffness increases with the square of the height but linearly with width. Hope that helps.
In his previous video (the one release just before this one), he did exactly that, I guess great minds think alike!
That is so clever. It's obvious when pointed out, but I have a feeling I'd have gone the rest of my life without realising this, if not for watching this video. A killer tip. Thanks for sharing.
Brilliant, thanks
Thanks for sharing those tips and the make!
Spot on. I have seen people on y/t use too many clamps about 60 % of the time. They simply do not understand the fundamentals of force distribution, I have about 45 yrs experience in woodworking and have done a bit of gluing.
Really appreciate your visuals and how concise this information is! Thank you.
Pure genius.
So simple... And brilliant!!!
Excellent visualisation!
Great insight. Thanx!
Makes perfect sense! Will certainly be trying this. Thanks! 👍
Great information, thanks.
I've been watching your videos for a couple years now. I'm a fan and I recommend you to friends. I've seen many other channels present similar information, and I've always been skeptical. The 90 degree rule may be useful as a rule of thumb, but I've never seen any supporting evidence provided, nor any sources cited. The video's I've seen suggest it's important, but I have plenty of anecdotal evidence to the contrary. By this standard, many of my early woodworking projects were underclamped, but I've been doing this for thirty years and never had a problem with any of them holding up.
I've never asked this of any other CZcamsr, but you've often been a skeptic of conventional wisdom, and you have a good track record of showing your work when you share your conclusions. If you don't mind my asking, how do you know the 90 degree theory holds water?
most videos just repeat the same old stuff over and over but this was actually something new and useful so good job
Great explanation of clamping pressure.
Love it. Thanks for explanation. Easy to apply to my work.
Thanks for the great explanation & demonstration~! Very helpful~!
Great tip! And a beautiful visual aid. Makes things easy to understand. Great video, Jodee. Thanks!
Thank you! And, the physics and force vectors work!
Excellent.
Thanks for showing this clamping principle so easy and clear!
This is really smart
Great video and topic as usual. Another added benefit of using those boards at the ends is to prevent marring or your workpiece surfaces. Not so much with parallel clamps. But with things like pipe clamps and bar clamps. You may be leaving indents in the edges of glue ups.
You're a very knowledgeable craftsman and appreciated.
Thanks for all of your tips, tricks and procedures in the workshop.
I've been watching all of your videos I come across and see.
Thanks again 👍
This is great for my small shop! Thanks for your practical approach on everything. 👏
Always good tips demonstrated in a clear way. That vertical clamp rack over your right shoulder being one of my favorites.
Excellent video.... I save every video you make because I know I will use what you presented in my own shop. Your concise logical explanations are simply the best out there. Thanks.
Excellent tips! Can’t watch your channel enough! I learn something every time I watch!
THANK YOU!!!!
Very clever! Thank you very much!
That’s very clever thinking
You continue to amaze!
Excellent presentation
Excellent
Very instructive, and as you explain it, it rings true. That is, it sounds right, and intuitive. Kudos!
My own such panel glue-ups are, unfortunately, fewer and farther between to justify the expense of a very large clamp collection. What I've done to compensate, on those occasions where I've needed to glue up a panel, is to screw down to my bench top two strips like your blue ones, leaving a gap before one of them, and filling that gap with a third strip not screwed down, as a pusher, being pushed by multiple pairs of matched shop-cut wedges, tapped tight by a hammer. Some surprisingly tight clamping pressures can be achieved with these simple bits of scrap, which doesn't back off, so long as they're cut with a sufficiently shallow angle, so as to engage with a good amount of friction.
To correct any upheaval in the middle of the panel, I've used different things over the years: Sometimes large heavy objects. And sometimes cauls -- actually, that makes them sound a lot fancier than these were. Usually, it will merely be the odd 2 or 3 warped 2x2 that would bridge the panel, the warp in the middle pointing downward toward the flat bench top, clamped at the ends with regular clamps, and wrapped in shipping tape for glue release. Not quite as handy as a collection of the right sizes of clamps, perhaps. But on the other hand, with a bit of planning and prep, no real extra time is added after glue application. Hopefully, this will be a good tip for someone.
the plus is I learn something new every time I watch your vids. .I'm relatively new to this craft and you are certainly an inspiration I draw from...thanks for sharing!
This is great information!
Just don't let my wife know I can use less......
😂
That was a great tip. I would not have thought of doing that. Great videos.
Yep
I have a shelf full of various sizes and legnths of scraps. All covered in red tuck tape just for this reason. Whenever i need something new/specific to a project, i make em, cover them in that tape and save for next time. Great video. This is how it works!
As always a great tip!!! You can also use spring joint..... with one clump in appropriate set up
Ingenious! Physics is amazing! Thanks for showing us a great use of some geometry and physics!
That's an excellent tip, dude! Thanks! 😃
Making the thin strip angles is an even better one! Makes it so much easier to see! 😃
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Planing a light curve on the cauls will allow extra pressure to centre of clamp area too. Similar to your other video of aligning ends when clamping
Game changer!!!
The 45’ s shown above the panel was something I’ve never seen or thought of- ty sir very helpful
PUSH, sorry I couldn't resist.
Yet another great video explains not just how but why!
Thanks your channel is my favorite on CZcams! Another top notch video!
Jesus, man. I haven't been back to your videos since your shosugiban days, and you're presence on camera is so much more centered and confident. Love the style, love the practicality of your videos, love it all.
Thank you…. This was a very helpful video. Yes I understand that the foundation of any glue-up is the milling process. But for me as a beginner woodworker, this was wonderful. Thank you for your insight and deciding what to do with the video.
Agree with the first 5 comments.... I've seen this done before but not nearly as clear and concise!
Excellent food for thought. With thick staves, 2 cramps can work and you get a flat panel. With thinner staves, I add the 3rd (to counteract any inclination from the staves to bow out of flat across the width of finished panel) inverted as you showed the 3rd cramp initially.
What a great solution. I will remember it. But I don't understand the pressure radiating out at 45 degrees. how/where did you learn this?
It's clever observation. Usually in engineering we assume 60deg instead of 90 (for bolts). Same applies here.
GD genius!
Excellent video in the era of excess or keeping up with the CZcamsrs who have walls full of clamps
Hey man, great thinking on adding those outside boards. I work in a cabinet shop and do glue up all the time and haven't thought about using those outside boards. So thanks! Keep up the great work. And the great videos! Take it easy.
Very instructive in terms of understanding the forces involved and identifying the shortfalls of inadequate clamping positions. Personally, whenever I find myself short on clamps, and am gluing up a panel or other part, and am working on a bench I don't mind putting a few holes in, my clamping preference is to take a few minutes and set up a wedge clamping table. Just screw down 'jaw blocks' at the appropriate locations on each side of the glue-up, so as to leave a small gap larger than 'fully clamped'. Then load in your non-glued 'jaw boards' and glued project pieces, and clamp it all with several shop-made wedges, driven against each other in pairs like shimming a doorway, to tighten up blocks pushing on the jaw board on that side of the project. (You can also use one wedge per position, and just screw down the jaw blocks on that side at an angle matching the wedge, at a distance where the block with the wedge hanging halfway out is up against the jaw board, leaving room to tap it in tighter.) Make the wedges' thin edges blunt instead of feathered, and you have a blunt tip to put a screwdriver against and hammer out when done, preserving the wedge for later use. And the clamping pressure provided by a wedge clamp is more than you'll need for any project, including squeezing out straight those slightly warped pieces you mentioned.
Diamonds are a glue-up's best friend.
Shout out to Lincoln St. Woodworks who covered this a year ago. It's a fantastic tip! No shade meant to Jodee, who's gotta be the smartest woodworker on CZcams. I've learned so much about how to change how I think about woodworking from this channel. Truly one of my favorite content creators.
Rob Cosman demonstrated a similar technique with the extra block to spread out the clamping load.
I remember reading about this in a woodworking magazine article or on their website.... I seem to remember it saying about the way the pressure is distributed depends on the width of the material ( each board width). The wider the board(s) the less clamps you would need. I could be mistaken about the physics
As I read through previous comments I see a lot of disagreement. Maybe valid, maybe not. But I subscribe to your theory. 👍Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
I was aware of the angles at which clamping pressure worked. As shown on the first glue up, smaller pieces tend to leave gaps and need more clamps. Your glue up then looks like an erector set and now weighs far more than it should.
Never thought to expand the area to shift the coverage of pressure. Amazing how many times we look at things and miss the simple answer. Thanks for what you do.
According to tradition, you need around 100 PSI for soft woods; if you do the math, this would mean about 5 clamps for that little panel you showed. I think the traditional numbers are wrong and that you need just a little pressure while clamping (15 PSI actually).
People that glue veneers together use a vacuum, atmospheric pressure is all they need, this being 14,7 PSI. So, using only 2 clamps with those blue board you showed will distribute those 2 clamp compression all over the panel, getting full cover, but little pressure (as little as a fifth of the alternative with 5 clamps). The little pressure doesn't' matter, a fifth of 100 PSI is 20 PSI, so over 15 PSI (explanation seems to fit).
Great channel and great content.💪🏽☺️
Never thought about this way you are explaining it. That’s awesome, thank you, bc I‘m exactly that type of person who has „never“ enough clamps!😂
>>Two clamps here, another two here and of course one there… and at the end I would have used seven/eight clamps for a similar board as yours.🤦🏽♀️🤣
Bloody brilliant!
Allyn (Alpal ) Hansen
New Zealand.
Interesting. I have used gluing calls in a pinch for the same reason. Don't get quite the pressure with the calls though.
Great video. Would using cauls as you did in another video (for panels} help distribute pressure even better?
You need enough clamps to make the boards conform to each other if they don't have perfectly straight edges. Otherwise it doesn't take much pressure to close the glue joint so fewer clamps are needed. The triangles that you show are somewhat conservative, the bending stiffness of the outside layers will help them to put pressure on the parts of the joint that are outside of the triangles. This is very dependent on the size of the layers, if you were laminating 3/4" thick pieces it would not work as well. If you were laminating 1x8 boards it would work very well. Do a dry fit test by putting the clamps on the boards and look closely to see if there are gaps anywhere in the joints. If not then it won't take much clamping pressure. If there are gaps then more clamping pressure might help, or you might need to straighten those boards.
Step back and think about ... I like that a lot!!! ... Your videos get me a lot of thinking ;)
Great explanation of the concept and well demonstrated so most anyone can grasp it.
Consistently teaching real world tips…such a great channel!
(please don’t do CZcams Shorts) 😬
Very useful once again but won't those small strips on top interfere with the clamping cauls? ;-)
that's one way to think about it, another way is beam stiffness. For instance the stiffer the material of the beam, the less width it needs for a given load spreading . Metal vs wood etc
Ingenious problem solving! Couldn't you employ the tapered cauls that you used in your previous video on alignment to also help with this problem?
That's actually not a bad idea...
@@MCsCreations yes it seems reasonable to me that the tapered cauls would alter the geometry of the clamping forces and allow the clamps to be moved slightly more to the outside and cover every square inch of this glue up.
"Science" Something that seams to get put on the back burner. Well done. When I saw the thumbnail I thought looks like a cool inlay. 😁
You could equally name your channel “The Thinking Woodworker” great demonstration as is usual from you! 👏😀👍
In the same manor that you showed the clamping cauls in a video or two ago, couldn’t you use tapered cauls on either end and put the clamps at the edges of the glue up, that way you have initial pressure in the middle and the even pressure across to the edges?
I've done something just like this a few times before. Sure there are times where it isn't feasible to have two extra 10' pieces, lol, but it is basic science and works!
😃 The internet and opinions.. ain't that the truth. Nicely done.
It would be cool if there were some linear pressure gauges that you could put between the boards to get an accurate reading of how much area 1 clamp actually covers.
How about using the tapered cauls from your last video in this situation??
I’m here to hear you call out the “internet” 😂 as always.
I don't want to cause much trouble because this will work, depending on the situation. It's going to help keep boards together. But there's something you have wrong about why this works. I want to be absolutely clear I don't think you're trying to spread wrong info; I think you're trying to spread what you've been told and what has worked for you.
Here's the issue: There's no such thing as a 45 degree clamping angle. The only certain angle is zero, straight to the opposite pad (if the clamp is applied correctly).
It's the stiffness of the extra board, and all the boards as a whole, that keeps it together. Everything can still bow out from the last clamp point. To some extent it's like a bundle of sticks being stronger with more sticks in the bundle.
I think this is important. For example, sometimes to control some questionable glue-ups you need a clamp near the very end. Trying to use a 45 degree a rule would not be enough. There's not a formula for the answer. You have enough experience that you would not get into trouble. You'll just feel the right answer when 45 is not enough. Others without as much experience might not know.
Following what you've theorised ... if I use wide enough boards on the outside then I only ever need to use one clamp to clamp everything together, as everything will be within the 'pressure' square.
It's an interesting theory but I'm not convinced at this time ... the only way I can think of testing your theory is to put multiple pressure sensors in a multi-board clamping setup (like you have) and measuring what clamping pressure you get at multiple points 👍
I see a new Woodpeckers "clamping force indicator" in the future. Only $249
Well explained. But have you ever joind with no cramps?Accross the room from where I am sitting is a drawing board which I made 60 years ago. I used zero cramps - how? By "rub jointing" very acurately hand planed meeting edges. Tested by swivelling. So contact is all along the join but slightly slacker mid way. Can't be seen but is detected by pinching one end and then the other.
I actually made a video about this very thing.