Marking Knives Don't Prevent Joinery Gaps, But DOING THIS Will
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- čas přidán 22. 02. 2023
- A marking knife is a wonderful tool for layout, but if you're still getting gaps in perfectly tight-fitting joints, it could simply be because you're using the knife on the wrong side.
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The obvious was not obvious until you made it obvious. Thanks Jodi. 👍
Well said, Starfish.
Well, obviously! 🙄
Jkjk 🤣
exactly
Just a note to say how much I appretiate your content. No fluff, no music swells, just clear and very helpful information through demonstration. The best on CZcams. Thanks, Bill.
This is why I keep coming back here. The damn music in some of these videos gets on my nerves.
Good point. A carpenters pencil sharpened right rules. I don’t rely on my marking knifes either. After one scoring with the knife - use the carpenters pencil to Color the grove for visibility… or just use a flat sharp carpenters pencil. Works for anything and stays sharp for long - not so god for tiny holes though 😁
Good video again!
Excellent, I have not used a knife much, however, what you just said makes perfect sense. Thank you again for yet another great video.
Great tip Jodi. I've used a marking knife for years and never thought about it this way. - Chris
Nice job in demonstrating a way to prevent the errors caused by a marking knife. Your explanations are always very clear and helpful. Thx.
You have a great way to teach your giant knowledge in an easy to understand language and demonstrated nicely 💪🏻👍🏻
Thanks for pointing out this small detail that can make a big difference in having nice tight joinery.
Excellent. Never thought of the bevel side causing so much trouble. Thanks
Thank you very much for this. I never thought about it but it makes perfect sense now that you explained it.
As always you hit the nail on the head. Keep up the excellent videos.
That last bit is a game changer. Thanks!
This issue with the thickness of a marking knife's blade is, I suspect, why Paul Sellers uses Swan scalpel blades for marking. Scalpel blades are thinner and have a much more acute angle at the edge than do thick marking knives, so the width of the cut is much narrower, even when made deeply.
The attention to detail to the alignment of those items on the wall in the top left corner of the frame, at 3:00 did not go unnoticed.
I just built a library ladder and ran into this exact problem. I couldn't figure out why my rung dadoes had gaps, but my marking knife technique was exactly how you described. Thanks for pointing this out! Great video as usual!
Straight-forward and well explained. Thank you.
Great tip for people having accuracy issues, these methods can be applied to most marking situations.
So bright! This was what I needed. Thanks
Great demonstration Jodie. Thanks for sharing it.
Brilliant..thanks
Brilliant! Makes perfect sense! Thanks for pointing this out.
Outstanding!
Fantastic explanation!
Your woodworking tips are ALWAYS spot on! Thanks, your channel is helping to make me a better craftsman!
Can't believe I didn't realise this before. Thank you so much!!!!
Thank you for this. Great info for newbies.
Makes sense, thanks
Excellent tip and explanation👌
WOW i would have never figured that out. I actually gave up on the knife because i was leaving gaps. So Thank you for that demo and my knife will now go to work.
A tip from my days as a drawing board engineer: Make yourself a little wood paddle. Use some double sticky tape to adhere some fine abrasive to one side and a finer frit ( 320?) to the other side. That'll last you forever and will refine the edge of your carpenter's pencils really well
"drawing board engineer" and "carpenter's pencils". Two phrases that usually don't belong together.
I appreciate the detail!
That's really helpful. Thanks!
thanks for the awesome advice.
That was an excellent explanation of something I hadn't thought about. Thank you!
Excellent, clear presentation that explains the why as well as the how. Great job!
Ive noticed the same issue for myself. While im still learning as a noob, I went from using pencil and table saw to now using a marking knife and chisel. Two methods to do it. While I am happy with my progress, I started noticing that exact same thing he is talking about. I knew then my approach was off. Since I am working with pine, these discrepancies are very noticeable. I am making an entertainment center of pine for cost reasons and as a learning experience. It will be of through M/T joinery. The leg half is done, but I have many more to do. I will approach it the way he just described and see my results.
I must say, while i knew kind of what my issue was, this video just solidified my suspicions. Thanks for the great video man!!!
Thanks!
nice explanation. thank you
Great tip. Thanks.
excellent tip and well explained, thank you for posting.
👍 Thank you!
You're killing it! I actually never thought about this. Makes so much sense when you see it! Thanks again.
Nice. Gonna try that.
Another great video thanks. Another factor that can make the difference between tight and lose joints is eye dominance. When I realised that I was very left eye dominant I started measuring and marking taking this into consideration and that was a game changer for me.
Thank you for this very simple but brilliant
Excellent idea. Thank you.
Great info. Thanks!
Useful
Yep
Great video. Thank you.
Very helpful indeed 👍🏻👊🏻
Great video and an excellent tip.
excellent advice
Amen Jodi
Nice explanation
thank you very much 👍😃
Great video. I really like the vids that teach technique that is applicable to wide range of woodworking situations. Thanks.
I do pretty much the same but just make a small nick in the deg of the timber then use that to reference the square a la Paul Sellers
Excellent ! Marking knife success is all about technique, and you have demonstrated it perfectly. Myself, I either use a pencil exactly as you did (leave the line) or I use the Paul Sellers folding Stanley. But it’s a double bevel blade and even easier to screw up if you’re not holding the bevel (not the flat of the blade) against the work.
Awesome lesson. I’m fairly new to woodworking and had ditched my marking knives because I got better results from a pencil. Now I know. Thanks.
Great explanation and learning lesson. This helped tremendously as always with your videos. Keep up the great work.
As usual very informative video. Keep them coming. Thank you
Mind Blown! Have been having this exact issue, only when I watched this video is it so obvious what is happening. Thank you!
Great point about marking knives, which I never considered. I just use a 0.7mm mechanical pencil which works fine.
That was another very useful explanation. Thanks.
Great information I would have never thought of.. ive never used a marking knife but I'm glad I know this now.. thanks man
Fantastic! I love the "why didn't I think of that" tips. Keep up the good work.
VERY useful! Thanks a lot man!!
Hadn't thought of this, but it's obvious once it is pointed out. Great tip thanks.
Very first lesson in every woodworking school here...
Makes total sense once you see it in action.
It truly comes down to the little things every time. Rex Kruger some time ago recommended a pocket knife instead of a marking knife.. less bevel, not his point but an important point ( please disregard the inadvertant pun). A utility knife or a true razor blade even less bevel. Thanks for pointing ( another inadvertant pun) out the subtleties.
Thanks! I have that same marking knife from Woodcraft
Brilliant! The same principle applies when using a marking gauge wheel. Bevel to the waste side.
I didn’t really start watching Woodworking videos until last year, and the amazing thing has always been to me how people use the double bevel striking knife. I was taught that the flat back was to be used against metal so it’s not to damage the blade. However, when using it against wood you always put the bevel against the wood and your finger on the flat back for more control (and not to get injured).
However a long time I switched to crafting utility blades. I don’t have very big hands and I did not like the thickness of most double bevels whether it be the blade or the handle. When you do find one that is thin and easy to use(blade and handle), for a small handed person , they seem to cost an arm and a leg. The crafting utility blades suit my needs very easily because they are so thin and lightweight as is the blade, and since they’re so inexpensive I don’t have to treat them like buried treasure. 😂😂
Great video! I tune pencils with a sheet of fine sandpaper - works faster. Also - skip the expensive marking knife and use a Stanley 10-049 utility knife. I do and it works great by leaving a thinner line.
If you use the marking knife to just make a small nick in the edge or corner of the workpiece, you can then easily use the square to continue the mark knife lines across the workpiece. Paul Sellers has a great video on this procedure
This is the same issue that wheel gauges have when doing mortises etc.
Always try and mark so the wheel bevel is on the inside not the outside of the mortise, so you mark the furthest line from each reference side not the closest 👍🏻
Brilliant! It makes perfect sense! 😃
Thanks a bunch, dude!!!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Now that people may be marking more accurately, the next discussion is where they aim and how they line up on their blade. An exposed blade on a table saw is very different to lining up to fractions of a mm, the blade on your circular saw (even using a track or guide)
It's a great point, with power tools. With hand tools, marking knives are not optional.
best "marking knife" I have found is the Stanley 10-049 folding pocket knife. I use this everyday.
nice
That’s how I learned to do it myself. One time and it doesn’t look right find out why. I’m learning everyday.
Great video.
Clever.
Interesting tip, I've never used a marking knife, but if I do, I'll know to watch out for that. For me, I just keep a really sharp pencil and pencil sharpener around. In your example, it should be clear to folks that the pencil line is a no-cut area, so if you stay inside, you're good!
Hi Jodi, fantastic demonstration and presentation, when I watch Japanese masters that don’t use marking knives, they use ink. Just one thought regarding your Jack plane, when I served my apprenticeship over 45 years ago I was roasted for putting another joiners plane down exactly as you do, because of the possibility of damaging the blade, never done it since, though I appreciate your work bench is tidy
I first started using a knife when I did my hardwood flooring
With 2500 sq feet to do. I wasn't trusting a pencil. And you only use the marks when cutting in the 90s around corners door frames and registers. But I find a sharp pencil works fine on smaller projects
I have a nice Japanese marking knife, that I never use.
A pencil for power tools and a scalpel for a knife wall when doing hand work.
So when you make your cuts, do you cut in between the lines, or through the lines?
Just one of the reasons I use only.. .02 mechanical pencils. Nice, thin lines and yeah..cut inside the lines. A fresh clean zero clearance insert makes lining up to the blade a snap. The problem with 0 clearance tape is you'll likely get an angle you may not want, but that's another story for another day. I'll wait for the video fix.. lol
Excellent video. My problem is that when I use this system I ALWAYS have the “walnut” slip. Well, often. With a square I can hold it firmly. 😢
The challenge for me is seeing my line on dark woods especially Sapele.
I use a 0.7mm mechanical pencil. Works well for me.
I use H6 hard pencil sharp point near same way as carpenters pencil
Hit play after rolling my eyes and thinking "Let's see what BS this click-bait video has". Ended the video thinking "Well, at least i never bought that damascus marking knife i had my eye on". Thanks for saving me the money! Though i was listening for one phrase that i think would benefit your less experienced viewers - "leave the pencil line". Make your cuts to the inside of the lines, but do not cut into them. (PS, if you DID say that and i missed it, apologies). You've gained another sub. Great video!
I got the same marking knife recently but it has a bow and doesn’t lay flat on its back. Is that normal? Is that what you tuned?
Old framing carpenters language would say make the mark and leave the line.
Can't you do the gapless-marking-knife-thing with two instead of three cuts: 1/ score along the metal square, 2/ put wood against square and keep wood in place, 3/ flip square over against other side of the wood and keep square in place, 4/ remove wood & score against the square? Now we only scored with the flat side out / bevelled side in. Or is there too much chance of wobble?
Interesting. I was just considering getting a marking knife to "up my game". Maybe I'll just stick with the mechanical pencil now.
If I remember correctly, this method is drawn and explained on the box of the marking knife. Also dude, you destroyed the ura on your knife! That’s a lot of work to go through and down the road.