I love your videos my uncle was a sniper in ww2 he was also a lumberjack most of his young life I remember him sharpening knifes axes and he done it all with a big stone he learned a lot in the army and a lot from the older men who worked in the lumber camps you sharpen a knife like I never seen it's a skull not many have at least not like you do much respect from prince edward island canada ☺
Thanks mister, thanks to this video I dared to sharpen my first convex edge on my Naniwa water stones. To be precies, a new f1 pro, which by the way was not sharp out of the box. Now it is a razor !
Hello. Your knife sharpening videos are excellent and are enjoyable to watch. I have noticed you do tend to scratch the sides of your knives when sharpening. Have you ever considered using fine grit sandpaper (600 grit) to put a satin finish on the sides of your knives? This is purely cosmetic, but many custom knife makers and knife collectors prefer a satin finish to a shiny finish. Just a thought.
Luke Johnson Indeed, this is the standard technique used on all knives unless you are specifically trying to achieve a Tanto or authentic Puukko type point.
Just got a Gunny Hunter in 3v with canvas micarta! It looks like the one you have in this video is the same handle material with no finish? Mine seems to be waxed. What is your preference for hunting?
This handle is bamboo. They have both shiny finish and matte finish on micarta. The matte finish has a little more surface friction, but it doesn't matter because the handle traction of Bark River knives comes mainly from its grippy contour. So I don't care about their handle finish for my hunting purpose. I actually ever sanded off the shiny micarta texture of the Fox River, but it didn't make a better traction. Thanks.
I love your videos, this one especially. But I am curious. I feel like this would eventually blunt the tip? I'm not second-guessing the technique, I've even started doing it myself (albeit on wet/dry sand paper, not stones). Just curious.
I am looking to get into sharpening by hand on stones. A2 D2 O1 CPM & lmax Steele's. for fixing chips or removing micro bevel Edge to produce convex Edge. what all stones do you recommend?
A back to basics video for natural convex knife sharpening. A needed addition. Fall has arrived. Do you have bushcraft or fishing videos in production? I the weather there signaling it is time for deer hunting? Did you dull the blade on the stone before cutting the paper or was the knife dull to start?
The knife had been used many times without applied to water stones. So its apex angle got too large because of my repeated stropping. I needed it sharpened on a flat surface to make its apex angle small enough again for the future use. Thanks.
Your stones seems to be taking steel much faster than mine. I got a set of Choseras based on you. But it does not look as fast as in your videos. Is there such a thing as fake stones? I bought it in Ebay... It came with no base. My Chosera 5000 is cracked. I don't know why, maybe fast dry.
@@virtuovice which one is maybe harder to sharpen? If you want to use a survival knife, what you can sharpen on the field outside even. Would you choose a convex bark river or better a flat grind?
@@stefan-D They are even about easiness of sharpening. If your purpose is survival, 3V is recommended because of its toughness. Elmax takes micro chips rather than micro rolls different from 3V. I have never thought of field sharpening because it is unnecessary for 3V convex edges. The thin convex geometry of Bark River releases the resistance of the cut object and bites deeper than the secondary V edge and is tougher than the flat Scandi grind.
you said 6 years ago: CPM-3V is very hard and rather difficult to maintain. If it took micro chips, it would need much effort to restore it.so on the field in survival you dont have water Stones with you, so you canot resharpen your cpm 3v after many days easy just with stropping or is it possible to use a fällkniven DC4?
@@stefan-D The first production run of 3V from Bark River was HRC61 and brittle. But their current 3V is HRC59~60 and extremely tough. I have never experienced the DC4.
Hello virtuovice. We have talked privatley in the past so if you can send me a message. As for her i was wondering something. I only have used a strop for sharpeing or rather honing. I reailze that i may need water stones. Is there a brand i should look for and what grits should i use. I have mostly bark river knives with some spydercos and GEC traditional knives. Any help would be great
The essential stone to start sharpening with is Shapton Ha-no-kuromaku (Pro) 1000 grit. This stone is very hard and coarse enough to make your specific edge geometry. Chosera 3000 grit is another good stone to finish up your edge with. Thanks.
hola para el que no sepa ingles esa placa rectificadora de diamante no es mala pero las hay mejores en el mercado dmt usa cuesta el doble y triple de precio segun que tipo de placa si quereis una placa de diamante que funcione y barata esta es tu elecion un saludo
I don't check for it during sharpening. The key is checking if all the edge line is already sharpened before going to the next stone. I check for it with fingers as well which feel the burrs on the other side all over the edge line which prove all the edge is already touched. Thanks.
I really enjoy watching your videos. The very informative and peaceful. I can really tell your true passion in knives. thank you for all that you do
@3:49 i felt a massive chill run up my spine.
Your videos are soooo rewarding; very informative. Thank you for all you have done!!!
Thank you so much for the informative video. I've often wondered about your technique. Thanks again.
I love your videos my uncle was a sniper in ww2 he was also a lumberjack most of his young life I remember him sharpening knifes axes and he done it all with a big stone he learned a lot in the army and a lot from the older men who worked in the lumber camps you sharpen a knife like I never seen it's a skull not many have at least not like you do much respect from prince edward island canada ☺
Thank you for making this video. I needed this. Great for learning.
Thank you, great to watch and learn, look forward to some fishing/firebox video, be well 👍👍👍
Greetings from NH,You are the king of convex my friend.
Awesome work as always, well done, best regards from New Zealand, Tony.
Thanks mister, thanks to this video I dared to sharpen my first convex edge on my Naniwa water stones. To be precies, a new f1 pro, which by the way was not sharp out of the box. Now it is a razor !
amazing as always! keep it up Dr.
thank you so much for your time and effort you hav helped me so much in my knife sharpening abilities you are amazing.
Beautiful. Thank you again.
Amazingly sharp!!!
Knife sharpening is an art!
Always nice to watch your skills in action :) Thank you /best regards Sweden
Another great video. I can get these stones easier now since I'm back in Japan!
Nice video. Thanks!
you are the master Doc
Great video Wako San!
You know that you’re in good hands if you hear “Hello, knife people!” when the video begins.
Excellent tutorial ..
Thumbs up, like always!
Thanks Buddy
best. 100 out of 100 ✨
Love your videos !!! make more Ramen & fishing videos plz
No Ma'am 979 I agree!
hey I have a king stone it's a combination 1000 and 6000 , do you know the best way to keep them stored ? in water or dry ?thanks
Very informative, as always. Thank you! Do you have any experience with King water stones? If so, are they good for Bark River's A2 steel?
very nice marks above the apex
Thanks again for an awesome video. Do you apply pressure on both strokes or only when going away from the apex??
I apply pressure only when I push the knife away from my body on the both sides.
good information
Hello. Your knife sharpening videos are excellent and are enjoyable to watch. I have noticed you do tend to scratch the sides of your knives when sharpening. Have you ever considered using fine grit sandpaper (600 grit) to put a satin finish on the sides of your knives? This is purely cosmetic, but many custom knife makers and knife collectors prefer a satin finish to a shiny finish. Just a thought.
Have you had a chance to try out the Fallkniven pro lines yet? Art
Thinking about getting a belt sander to sharpen knives to a convex edge. Thoughts?
Daniel Saucier I would only use a machine for very inexpensive knives.
would you recommend the 'just raise the hand' technique for tip of knives on scandi grinds?
I think this technique will be applied to Scandi grind as well though I have never tried it. Thanks.
Luke Johnson Indeed, this is the standard technique used on all knives unless you are specifically trying to achieve a Tanto or authentic Puukko type point.
Just got a Gunny Hunter in 3v with canvas micarta! It looks like the one you have in this video is the same handle material with no finish? Mine seems to be waxed. What is your preference for hunting?
This handle is bamboo. They have both shiny finish and matte finish on micarta. The matte finish has a little more surface friction, but it doesn't matter because the handle traction of Bark River knives comes mainly from its grippy contour. So I don't care about their handle finish for my hunting purpose. I actually ever sanded off the shiny micarta texture of the Fox River, but it didn't make a better traction. Thanks.
thanks for the reply! Have you checked out the new Esee HM? Looks like a great hunting blade! It would be cool to here your opinion on it.
I love your videos, this one especially. But I am curious. I feel like this would eventually blunt the tip? I'm not second-guessing the technique, I've even started doing it myself (albeit on wet/dry sand paper, not stones). Just curious.
This will eventually shorten the blade length just little by little instead of shallowing the belly.
That makes sense. Thank you for the response!
I am looking to get into sharpening by hand on stones. A2 D2 O1 CPM & lmax Steele's. for fixing chips or removing micro bevel Edge to produce convex Edge. what all stones do you recommend?
Chosera400, Shapton1000, Shapton2000, Chosera3000. These 4 stones will do all for you. Take care.
Do these stones also work well for Bark River 3V?
Yes.
Thank you. I have two bark river knives. Both 3V. I have been wanting to learn hand sharpening.
How did your 2k crack?
Despite I was careful not to soak it, it cracked. But I can use it as if there are no cracks. So I guess they are not very deep. Thanks.
Lol I meant skill in there and dam auto correct said skull lol sorry
What is it that you apply to the 3000 stone at 7:30? Also, great videos! I thoroughly enjoy them and recommend them to any knife people I know :)
It is Nagura stone which produces good slurry which makes sharpening feel very smooth.
www2.odn.ne.jp/mandaraya/5-tennen-nagura.htm
I'm going to buy a set of wetstones, what stones do you recommend ?
Shapton 1000, 2000, and Chosera 3000.
thank you.!
Hi there. your Japaneese whetstone holder has Stainless steel guides. where did you buy or maybe you would send a link to me.
Thank you.
what is the plate you are using to flatten your stones?
SK11 diamond plate #150/#600.
Please make more videos.
+virtuovice
where can you purchase those stones in the U.S.
Thanks much appreciated.
where do you buy your nagara stone? would appreciate a link.
They take PayPal and ship overseas by air.
www2.odn.ne.jp/mandaraya/5-tennen-nagura.htm
A back to basics video for natural convex knife sharpening. A needed addition.
Fall has arrived. Do you have bushcraft or fishing videos in production? I the weather there signaling it is time for deer hunting? Did you dull the blade on the stone before cutting the paper or was the knife dull to start?
The knife had been used many times without applied to water stones. So its apex angle got too large because of my repeated stropping. I needed it sharpened on a flat surface to make its apex angle small enough again for the future use. Thanks.
Your stones seems to be taking steel much faster than mine. I got a set of Choseras based on you. But it does not look as fast as in your videos. Is there such a thing as fake stones? I bought it in Ebay... It came with no base.
My Chosera 5000 is cracked. I don't know why, maybe fast dry.
What angle do you use?
around 15 degrees per side, but it changes during a stroke because the honing motion is pendulum to go with convex geometry.
what is your experience with sharpening Bark River CPM 3V and Elmax? How easy is it on the Stone and how easy on the field?
They are evenly very easy to sharpen on the quality stones like Chosera or Shapton. I don't sharpen in the field.
@@virtuovice which one is maybe harder to sharpen? If you want to use a survival knife, what you can sharpen on the field outside even. Would you choose a convex bark river or better a flat grind?
@@stefan-D They are even about easiness of sharpening. If your purpose is survival, 3V is recommended because of its toughness. Elmax takes micro chips rather than micro rolls different from 3V. I have never thought of field sharpening because it is unnecessary for 3V convex edges. The thin convex geometry of Bark River releases the resistance of the cut object and bites deeper than the secondary V edge and is tougher than the flat Scandi grind.
you said 6 years ago: CPM-3V is very hard and rather difficult to maintain. If it took micro chips, it would need much effort to restore it.so on the field in survival you dont have water Stones with you, so you canot resharpen your cpm 3v after many days easy just with stropping or is it possible to use a fällkniven DC4?
@@stefan-D The first production run of 3V from Bark River was HRC61 and brittle. But their current 3V is HRC59~60 and extremely tough. I have never experienced the DC4.
what lapping plate is that?
SK11 diamond plate #150/#600.
What happened to 5000 stone?
All bevels resulted from free sharpening are convex more or less.
Hello virtuovice. We have talked privatley in the past so if you can send me a message. As for her i was wondering something. I only have used a strop for sharpeing or rather honing. I reailze that i may need water stones. Is there a brand i should look for and what grits should i use. I have mostly bark river knives with some spydercos and GEC traditional knives. Any help would be great
The essential stone to start sharpening with is Shapton Ha-no-kuromaku (Pro) 1000 grit. This stone is very hard and coarse enough to make your specific edge geometry. Chosera 3000 grit is another good stone to finish up your edge with. Thanks.
hola para el que no sepa ingles esa placa rectificadora de diamante no es mala pero las hay mejores en el mercado dmt usa cuesta el doble y triple de precio segun que tipo de placa si quereis una placa de diamante que funcione y barata esta es tu elecion un saludo
Udsted la compra y me la manda llo se la pago el año que entra
.try leather at end, it orients the edge and deburrs
crackbadger man he did..
How do you check for sharpness during sharpening?
I don't check for it during sharpening. The key is checking if all the edge line is already sharpened before going to the next stone. I check for it with fingers as well which feel the burrs on the other side all over the edge line which prove all the edge is already touched. Thanks.