Fallkniven F1 3G, Convex Waterstone sharpening (hi
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- čas přidán 8. 08. 2016
- This is a sharpening geek out video.
Brought to a high polish for woodcraft performance.
Should carve wood like a dream now.
Ask away in the comments if you have questions :)
I am practicing while watching this video. You are world class. It is very difficult to adjust the angle.😅
An expert in steel and sharpening! I'll give it a go.
Because of this vid I sharpened my sabenza 21 convex pro stones 400 1k 3k and strips it came out wayyyy better then I ever thought I could sharpen it was also my first edge that can split free hanging hair your vids are the first ones I started watching when I didn't know shit thank you so much for teaching me man I really mean that I wouldn't of been able to sharpen like this without you
Very informative and enjoyable to watch. Great job. Thanks!
+Jörgen Sandström
Thank you my friend:)
Nice to see someone who knows what they’re talking about.
dude....Awesome video. I believe this is the most comprehensive wet stone convex sharpening tutorial yet.....great job..convex grinds are the best for working knives but a bit tricky to do. your video is on point regarding the problems I've had...good job.
My Naniwa 3k-10k all developed cracks. Was a real bummer but I was able to lap through them (except the 5k. It's toast). I was instructed by CKTG to soak them 10min prior to use, and lap the top layer off after use. This removes the top layer that water soaks into (non scientific, just speculation), and stops the micro surface cracking.
Fantastic video. Full of excellent info. Thanks for sharing!
Yikes, that sucks bro :(
Ten min is overkill.
I either splash and go or dunk and go.
I flatten beforehand and sometimes after too.
But yea, that 5k is a thirsty bastard.
I prefer the snow white 8k and I can't justify the 10k because strops are cheaper and more effective for my tastes.
Thank you for enjoying my channel
really very interesting and well done :-)
greetings from Bavaria
Peter
Yup. My Snow White (Maroon base) has very very fine “cracks” forming. Doesn’t effect sharpening but def. unexpected. My other choseras are tip top and all have bases (400/800/2k). When you mentioned that cracking issue; i don’t feel as bad. 😁
Love this long video
Hello Shawn,
interesting video; very informative and you definitely master the convex grind shaping and sharpening on waterstones.
However, considering the time and equipment it took (30 min. for you which means a lot longer for most people), I really wonder if having a convex grind is really worth it and not over rated. I can certainly see and feel an advantage of grinding a small transition bevel in order to smooth the ridge formed by the intersection of the primary bevel and the edge bevel but I'm really not sure a whole convex grind is as beneficial as it is said...
This comment is not a "criticism" towards you in particular but rather a questioning in regard to the widespread idea that a convex grind is so much superior...
Also, is 20 dps on a small knife really necessary?
Cliff Stamp made a video many years ago testing and adjusting the edge geometry of a Normark EKA 12C27 heavy whittling hardwood flooring and an edge of 12 dps with a micro-bevel of 15 dps was enough to make around 1000 slices in the hardwood flooring without damage and still slicing newsprint out of 320 grit Norton Economy...
Again, not a criticism towards you in particular but a questioning in regard to the widespread and accepted 20 dps recommandation...
After all, Mora knives have their edge at around 12 dps depending on models and they've been whittling wood for decades without much issues...
Big brown bear is right about The f1 having a too steep geometry hence the f1 comes with a micro v edge to aid edge retention. very good video. I use a head torch to spot flat spots on the edge before I move up from the first stone that way you wont need to go back to course stones
The work sharp ken onion edition only give convexed grinds and lets be honest convexed grinds are superior to all other grinds. They last longer and also your knife lasts longer as you are removing less material. I've never looked back and I could get rid of my bulky time consuming whetstone's. The Work Sharp Ken Onion Edition is so versatile as you can buy attachments like the knife and tools grinding attachment (IT ALREADY COMES WITH THE KNIFE GRINDING ATTACHMENT) and there are more attachments coming out. I think they are 2 or 3 up to now but honestly they are really really good and it gets the blade hair splitting sharp every time and it's effortless just about. Check them out, just do a search in the search bar. But thank you to Big Brown Guy because I'm going to buy the F1 3G after viewing your video 👌👍
stuart coyne right on brother, enjoy 😁
Hey Big Brown Guy I just noticed your leather strop and I just wanted to tell you, you can almost get it back to new condition if you use some isopropyl alcohol and then use a bank or credit card to push the alcohol off the strop and repeat until all off the oils and gunky wax abrasive is gone. It doesn't take long but going back to W.S.K.O.E knife sharpener well those have a leather strop and it's a lot faster and precise as you are hitting the same spot on the edge every time. Did you check them out ? I'm still watching the rest of your vids but if need some Isopropyl alcohol you can get it off Amazon.com and it's cheap. I've ordered my F1 3G too !
I totally dig your outlook on sharpening man , I started off using a steel whilst working in kitchens etc and just recently discovered waterstones a couple year ago and sharpening everything freehand is just the way to go . it's funny when you hear people go crazy about those fixed tabletop systems that just look so lazy and no where near as intimate . I feel you get to know the steel better when you have the blade in your hands, plus you are training your precision in keeping angles. I'm using king stones I think they are softer than the naniwa but I like them . one day I'll be buying some naniwa to try them . I always put convex edges on my folders for some reason it's just a natural progression .
Jonny Parker right on brother, I think you will really enjoy the naniwa pro stones.
if you get them, I recommend a two stone set up with the 400 and 800 stones
Big Brown Guy cheers man thanks for the advice !
Jonny Parker Agreed.
Can you recommend any tips with getting the technique down for the 20, 15, 10 degree sharpening and blending? tell me more bout avoiding a rounded apex.
Do you sharpen at 20 15 10 on the 400 stone before you swap to the 1000?
Great technique! I'm working on my convexing methods, but am not getting those scary sharp results unless I finish off the process with my translucent Arky before stroppinng. I'm concerned, however, that all I'm doing there is putting on a microbevel. Have you ever experimented with putting a microbevel on a convex edge?
Genial, nada mas q decir. saludos
There are many sharpening videos on youtube Sean but you really nailed it with this one. Happy to subscribe. Have you seen Cliff Stamp's channel?
Hey Mate,
I'm still thinking about adding the 3G version to my collection. We have had it before but... it was mikkie's first knife and we had no understanding about steel, grinds or knives in general. I was wondering what your experiences are with this? Mikkies knife kept having edge problems but I can't remember if he just sharpened it way to thin back in the days. he sold it years ago.
Your opinion on this is the only valid one for me.
I'll keep it real with you bro, It takes a killer high polished edge yet still has a nice bite to the edge if executed correctly., I was not very impressed with the edge holding for bushcraft, seems to break down with very, very fine microchiping during use, it will still cut but those microchips start to add up. Elmax does the same thing but not as much.
so in the end you have to keep a more obtuse angle to avoid the damage which is not my style.
I'd say that the 3g is a little overpriced and that Elmax has better performance
but I still love this knife and it does seem to take a killer edge.
but its not in my top ten
thanks a lot for the reply my axe warrior friend.
This is exactly what Mikkie experienced back in the days. I don't think it will make me more happy than CoS so I'll skip it. I'm searching my ass off for a new pearl to add to my collection. Any chance Malika is going to do another run on those M4 puukko's?
All the best to you mate!
yes but not until the end of the year
we still have some other steels to explore.
Since we both have the same tastes in steel and I feel like I've known you forever :D
I can say that CPM Cruwear will be your favorite over CPM M4 from what Iv'e seen. It's like super blue with more wear resistance, but still has that great high sharpness, M4 is bomb but it seems to plateau quicker to a working edge that just won't stop cutting and is rather responsive to honing but not as amazing as cruwear in that regard.
'guess it's like comparing top speed to turning and handling in cars with cruwear being the latter
Thanks mate!
I just read a comment from Mike Steward that Bark River might do some knives in Cru-wear. I'll be buying one for sure.
Keep me posted on the puukko's I'm interested.
Btw. do you guys sell strops at the sharpening shop? I was wondering what your favourite strop is. I've tried some more expensive ones but still prefer the simple DLT XL paddle strop.
Dutch Bushcraft Knives doe het maar je krijgt er geen spijt van .
Awesome video brother!
At what grit do you stop the scrubbing (back and forth) motion on the apex? I understand for blending you will continue that motion throughout your progression, but at what stage do you only start stropping the apex on the stones?
+Ross Coll 8000 grit is when I stop.
Produces a smooth high performance edge for wood carving but reduces the edge holding for high performance
I strop when I'm done with what ever stone I'm finished on.
I know I'm done when I have a burr.
Or at higher grit, when the finish is uniform since the burr is too small.
+Big Brown Guy
Thanks.
I'm Definitely going to adjust my technique based off of this.
I know I still have allot to learn the hardest part for me was going the tip and belly of the umnumzaan idk why I said the 21 but I really hope u cut more out maybe how to sharpen your crk inkosi I don't know if you remember my extremely embarrassing comment asking if you can still use water stones on carbon steel if I find it I have to take it down but I learned allot of that from you so thanks again man
Just so I know I’m understanding it correctly, you’re saying you begin with the steepest angle, the apex (with the edge of the blade on the stone) and get it ground out til it’s sharp on the 400. Do you then do the shallower 15 and 20 degrees on the 400 before moving to the 1000?
Well, if the grind is 15°degrees per side, you can't sharpen at 15° (dps) unless you were laying it flat on the entire saber grind all the way up to the shoulder near the spine to the apex itself. So to simplify, you just sharpen like normal which creates a bevel with a shoulder and then you blend that bevel in. Please stop over complicating this. Stop reading dumb shit on forums and arguing with ignorant people. Honestly I refrain from talking about this because it's almost like trying to argue about religion.
@@FearNoSteel I appreciate the video. Im not arguing on a forum, just asking you a question to confirm so I don’t mess it up but it seems like you don’t want any questions so I’ll just give it a go. Thanks
my dream come true when I received my 400 grit chosera stone
do you have opinions on Naniwa Arata ( Baby Chosera line ) ?
Is it worth practising on cheaper knives? I have an F1 and some waterstone coming, but I don't want to shag my F1
Buy a mora and practice on that its fairly cheap
Use sandpaper and bubble wrap or a solid rubber mat surface like a mouse pad. Honestly stone honing takes way to much life off your knives.
Maintain your blade with a loaded strop and you will never need to do what this guy has to do for people.
Convexing is the easiest edge to maintain. always strop never back and forth unless ya damage your edge.
Just my opinion.
My bad for all the comments but I'm looking for an 8k stone I'm looking at the naniwa sharpening stone or the Snow White both 8k Snow White is 108 I think and the sharping stone is 88 both naniwa any opinion would be helpful thanks
Sour they don't make the snow white stone anymore, it's been replaced by the tranditional 8k
the sharpening stone "yellow" is a softer stone. it gouges if your angles are off. loads faster, but makes a brighter finish, less streaks, but dish's faster, doesn't cut as fast either.
the og snow white is nice, that's what I bought.
some problems are it's a glass hard stone, doesn't want to make slurry. it's prone to cracking
No sharpening supplies bright it back for limited time naniwa had allot of ppl asking it's a little different then before not supposed to have the cracking problem check it out tell me what u think it's going for 108 seems high idk what it was going for before
www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Search.aspx?k=Snow%20White
Sour I've never used the traditional 8k, can't help with that. I've used the super stone and the Snow white stone, I don't know that I would say that the snow white is superior to all 8k stones. it's hard AF and has no mud.
it's nice to use softer stones. they have better feedback and better finish.
I think the snow white has a cool name but I might prefer other stones.
depends on preferences, what I am sharpening and what my set up is
thanks I think I'm going to go with the new naniwa 8k sharping stone after the 3k I think it should still get all the scratches out from the 3k
Hello Knife People
I have an A1 and need to sharpen it. I bought myself a Hultafors OK4 for practicing purposes and fucked it up big time by trying to convex it. $20 for the bin. I am totally pissed and scared to get my hands on my $200 A1. I used waterstones with 600 grid, 1000, 3000 and 5000. I bought new and better stones to fix the mess but still, same result. So it is not the stone but me. I watched so many videos and did as said. My Hultafors is now half the hight it was before.
So to get it right, you first get a V-shape or close to a V-shape caused by natural hand motion and then grind the line away to finally convex it?
How to you know what angle you are having? Don‘t wanna fuck up a knife that cost me $200 😅
Get some freehand angle guides. They sit on top of the stone so you can put your blade against it and check your angle. They’re only a few dollars for a bunch of different degrees.
5 words. Work Sharp Ken Onion Edition.
stuart coyne 5 words check out my other videos xD
IT is vg5 not vg1
arno wiersma reference to what? refresh my memory
Wat ben je aan het nemen van ongeveer?
You must have shaved all the hair off your arms. Your hairless?
Due to genetics.
Man.... are U kidding me?! Cutting hair unsupported?! You´r being modest about saying that you have limited sharpening skills.
Thanks brother:)
I have been humbled by better sharpeners then myself.
I've only been at it since 2010.
Some that I know have been sharpening for 10 to 15 years at a high level.
It is my dream to be as good as them.
Haha
One day you will be my friend.... One day....
I thought some of my knifes were sharp by almost push cutting thru receipt paper but you have proved me wrong. :-)
You have got me more interested in knife sharpening.
But to get a knife that sharp that U say it can be, it must be up to the steel as well right?
shannonandsheila1 aww thanks bro. But there is always someone better. That's life :) :D