My 3V Fox River took many microchips accidentally. And I restored it using Chosera water stones. It was easier and cleaner than sandpaper works to me. Thanks.
i have a small chip in my br necker 3v too - i was afraid to restore it on my king stone 1000 & 6000 grit - then strop. after watching this video - i might give it a go. might send you a private quick video. thanks wako darren
In this video I rolled my hand a bit too much and the edge angle went a bit too large. So I needed to resharpen it. Anyway the stone choice is very agonizing to me too. It is almost sure that #3000 is too fine and #2000 is just right for finishing outdoor knives. I like #400 more than #600 for the initial edge reprofiling. #400 is faster and needs less power and fewer strokes. The next stone needs to diminish the scratches made by the initial stone efficiently. #800 will be faster than #1000.
We always need to put a micro bevel to restore chippings in case of convex edges. 3V is a chippy steel when it has a small angle. So 3V Bravo1 takes a fatter geometry and this 3V Fox River takes a micro bevel out of the box. I think I was able to keep the original micro bevel angle in this restoration. My micro bevel is completely convex though. I don't take the meaning of the polishing line. It should be used only in the forum. Thanks.
A micro-bevel is just a small bevel usually referring to it being difficult to see by eye. Wako's problem as he clearly has stated is that the micro-bevel is a v-bevel which will prevent it from responding to the sharpening he prefers which is frequent stropping on leather. The micro-bevels he grinds on the knives are convex and he does that simply to increase the edge thickness because the knives roll or chip out with the factory edges.
I doubt he'd agree at all, as he clearly stated at around 8:40 that it now has a micro bevel after the sharpening, yet its better than the v-bevel from the factory. he knows that he just added a micro-bevel, and that its very different from a blended polish line. a polish line that transitions from 1 grit to another on the same arc will merge without a shoulder.. his microscopic video showed a specific shoulder, without any blend of grits from polish. very clear.
Virtuovoice. As usual you give us such great advice. I know you might not be into bushcraft knives, but there is a guy here in the uk that makes handcrafted bushcraft knives. Look for jacklore knives on youtube and tell us what you think. Again, great videos. Thank you
A2 is a better steel for me. It is not expected to chip and its roll restoration is extremely easy. 3V is a high wear resistant steel but a bit chippy. If we need to restore the chipping, we need to make a larger angle micro bevel which is blunter than before. But if we can accept the chipping and need to continue using a single knife for long, 3V is pretty much wear resistant and keeps its sharpness regardless of the chipping. Thanks.
It isn't the scratch pattern which is the issue it is that one edge clearly shows a flat bevel and one shows an arc. You can see the light strongest when you are looking at the same angle off the normal as the light is hitting it. If there is an arc this will show up clearly as a narrow line as you rotate the blade as you are just seeing the effect of the width of the filament. On a flat bevel you will clearly see the entire bevel strongly reflect light when it rotates to that specific angle.
I dont have the knife, so I can only be a speculator. it seems like a very small micro-bevel. it could be curved, or flat.. hard to say when its that small. i use 400x. My personal opinion is that I dont care if there is a microbevel. what is important is the edge angle, and the thickness of the steel leading to the apex. if its 15DPSmicrobevel, and then flattens out to the convex, then its going to cut better than a full height convex of 15dps that has more metal, and then tapers down.
Like anything. People need to look, and use their own judgement. people hanging onto Wakos word is no better than people parroting what Mike says without using their own mind and analytics. Same goes for me too.. people need to think and decide for themselves. I do not accept what Mike said that its a polish line for the simple fact that I've examined far too many knives in microscopes with polished blends and they dont look like this video. it just looks like the buffing fell short of the apex.
Yes.. it might get fun.. but I've had enough of "fun" because of this sort of stuff. Wako made some assumptions in the video that are incorrect. its not excusable to use the incorrect assumptions on 1 point, to argue the validity of another correct point. English being his 2nd language should also be considered. I live in a country with at least 15 languages spoken and sometimes you have to interpret the english to get to the thoughts. I hope people argue the topic, and not the people speaking.
It shouldnt be. 3V @ 60RC should be around 100% tougher than A2 at 58/60rc. But concrete and stone is much harder than steel. Those chips look large under the microscope but in reality they are very small. the moon chips could literally be just carbide tearout where the edge is thinner than the carbide size and cannot hold it in. It could also be a burnt edge from grinding making it brittle. no easy answer.
I know exactly what a micro bevel is,,, I noticed today examining mine under the scope that the light refracts by changing it either in front or behind the edge, and it does give you two different perspectives depending on the angle, the 3v versions do have a thicker edge spine, the grind scratches are to zero in one light while reversed light gives a false bevel, @ illjustmakeanother do your homework before you have an opinion--sheep
LOL kyley well which is it??? one video he says it comes with a micro bevel, now its V bevel? and he put on a micro bevel, this is all under 120X power micro scopes that Bark river does by hand, the videos are getting ridiculous , and so are the sheep that are hanging on every word-- he says its good, and BAM people buy it--(that might someday hunt)-- then the same knife is bad, and everyone gets upset, then... its good again-- and THIS is gonna get fun
For some reason I find it very relaxing to watch you sharpen on the water stones. Very nice restoration job, best wishes Wako.
Your video's make me happy.
i have a small chip in my br necker 3v too - i was afraid to restore it on my king stone 1000 & 6000 grit - then strop.
after watching this video - i might give it a go.
might send you a private quick video.
thanks wako
darren
In this video I rolled my hand a bit too much and the edge angle went a bit too large. So I needed to resharpen it. Anyway the stone choice is very agonizing to me too. It is almost sure that #3000 is too fine and #2000 is just right for finishing outdoor knives. I like #400 more than #600 for the initial edge reprofiling. #400 is faster and needs less power and fewer strokes. The next stone needs to diminish the scratches made by the initial stone efficiently. #800 will be faster than #1000.
You have a good practiced hand with Knife sharpening using Water Stones. Cheers ;-))
Domo arigato for the great videos!
A while back, I watched a documentary on how Samari(sic) swords are made. The blade smith used a concave hone, which put a convex edge on the blades.
We always need to put a micro bevel to restore chippings in case of convex edges. 3V is a chippy steel when it has a small angle. So 3V Bravo1 takes a fatter geometry and this 3V Fox River takes a micro bevel out of the box. I think I was able to keep the original micro bevel angle in this restoration. My micro bevel is completely convex though. I don't take the meaning of the polishing line. It should be used only in the forum. Thanks.
A micro-bevel is just a small bevel usually referring to it being difficult to see by eye. Wako's problem as he clearly has stated is that the micro-bevel is a v-bevel which will prevent it from responding to the sharpening he prefers which is frequent stropping on leather. The micro-bevels he grinds on the knives are convex and he does that simply to increase the edge thickness because the knives roll or chip out with the factory edges.
3V is a very high wear resistant steel and holds incredibly long. But it is a bit chippy. A2 holds one third of 3V but it is not chippy at all.
Good job!
My hand rotated a bit too much and the edge angle went a bit too large. So I resharpened it again to make a bit smaller angle. Thanks.
I live on Hokkaido island Japan. Thanks.
It was not mine and I sent it back to the owner. I feel like 3V is twice a harder steel than A2.
very good !
I doubt he'd agree at all, as he clearly stated at around 8:40 that it now has a micro bevel after the sharpening, yet its better than the v-bevel from the factory. he knows that he just added a micro-bevel, and that its very different from a blended polish line. a polish line that transitions from 1 grit to another on the same arc will merge without a shoulder.. his microscopic video showed a specific shoulder, without any blend of grits from polish. very clear.
Virtuovoice. As usual you give us such great advice. I know you might not be into bushcraft knives, but there is a guy here in the uk that makes handcrafted bushcraft knives. Look for jacklore knives on youtube and tell us what you think. Again, great videos. Thank you
A2 is a better steel for me. It is not expected to chip and its roll restoration is extremely easy. 3V is a high wear resistant steel but a bit chippy. If we need to restore the chipping, we need to make a larger angle micro bevel which is blunter than before. But if we can accept the chipping and need to continue using a single knife for long, 3V is pretty much wear resistant and keeps its sharpness regardless of the chipping. Thanks.
It isn't the scratch pattern which is the issue it is that one edge clearly shows a flat bevel and one shows an arc. You can see the light strongest when you are looking at the same angle off the normal as the light is hitting it. If there is an arc this will show up clearly as a narrow line as you rotate the blade as you are just seeing the effect of the width of the filament. On a flat bevel you will clearly see the entire bevel strongly reflect light when it rotates to that specific angle.
If you want pointy tip grind/sharpen/remove metal from the spine of the blade a little bit - i had the same problem with Aurora 3V steel :S...
The green stone is Chosera #400.
I dont have the knife, so I can only be a speculator. it seems like a very small micro-bevel. it could be curved, or flat.. hard to say when its that small. i use 400x. My personal opinion is that I dont care if there is a microbevel. what is important is the edge angle, and the thickness of the steel leading to the apex. if its 15DPSmicrobevel, and then flattens out to the convex, then its going to cut better than a full height convex of 15dps that has more metal, and then tapers down.
interesting, after you took it to the stone, it looks like another micro bevel that your complaining about, agree its a polishing line now?
After this experience do you prefer 3V over A2? It seems like it is not worth having the chipping problems with 3v when A2 functions just as well.
looks so much harder to sharpen than A2. i wonder what ever happened to your DiamondBlade?
What is the grit on the green water stone?
★★★★★
Is it me or is 3v really brittle? Is it A2>3v?
Like anything. People need to look, and use their own judgement. people hanging onto Wakos word is no better than people parroting what Mike says without using their own mind and analytics. Same goes for me too.. people need to think and decide for themselves. I do not accept what Mike said that its a polish line for the simple fact that I've examined far too many knives in microscopes with polished blends and they dont look like this video. it just looks like the buffing fell short of the apex.
Yes.. it might get fun.. but I've had enough of "fun" because of this sort of stuff. Wako made some assumptions in the video that are incorrect. its not excusable to use the incorrect assumptions on 1 point, to argue the validity of another correct point. English being his 2nd language should also be considered. I live in a country with at least 15 languages spoken and sometimes you have to interpret the english to get to the thoughts.
I hope people argue the topic, and not the people speaking.
It shouldnt be. 3V @ 60RC should be around 100% tougher than A2 at 58/60rc.
But concrete and stone is much harder than steel. Those chips look large under the microscope but in reality they are very small. the moon chips could literally be just carbide tearout where the edge is thinner than the carbide size and cannot hold it in. It could also be a burnt edge from grinding making it brittle. no easy answer.
I know exactly what a micro bevel is,,, I noticed today examining mine under the scope that the light refracts by changing it either in front or behind the edge, and it does give you two different perspectives depending on the angle, the 3v versions do have a thicker edge spine, the grind scratches are to zero in one light while reversed light gives a false bevel, @ illjustmakeanother do your homework before you have an opinion--sheep
LOL kyley well which is it??? one video he says it comes with a micro bevel, now its V bevel? and he put on a micro bevel, this is all under 120X power micro scopes that Bark river does by hand, the videos are getting ridiculous , and so are the sheep that are hanging on every word-- he says its good, and BAM people buy it--(that might someday hunt)-- then the same knife is bad, and everyone gets upset, then... its good again-- and THIS is gonna get fun