Good info! I battled a 201tc recently. Saw quit running in the tree. Guy threw it from tree. So I replaced broken parts and it ran great for 5 days then won’t start but had spark. Replaced harness. Ran good for 6 days. After that no start same situation. Replaced black fuel solenoid with another black one off a parts carb. Started up fist pull and is on day 4 of running good. I know what you mean when you say fingers crossed haha.
take off the carb and release the screw in the center of round plate . turn this plate about 2 degree. that will increase the ideal speed on suitable rpm about 3000.
Rich nice work. 👍👍👍 I was thinking AT or air leak. The filter housing pointed to the 1st gen design, they had some AT and sealing problems. Overall I like them saws. 🙂
Nice video. I bought a 545 from a friend who was frustrated with the saw. I did some research and found that there’s a auto tune rest process for the auto tune. None of this info is in the operation manual that comes with the saw from Husky.
Hi Richard- thanks for a very interesting clip!! So have i got it that you need the genuine Husky software to install a new carb on all their auto tune saws?? Also if so does this apply to the stihl mtronics??i.e stihl software- Many thanks for your time
Enjoying the channel, keep it up. How did you go about getting access to he husky diagnostic tool and software? I have stihl's mdg1 and sds but husky isn't willing to grant me access to theirs. Makes servicing my husky clients unrealistic
How much do you screw the low and high adjustment screws on the carburetor for a Sthil weed eater FS 90 R. It just doesn’t have a very quick response and doesn’t seem like it is Revving up as high as it should.
On our fleet of fs94 and fs111 I’ll hold ours wide open and go an 1/8th of a turn out(richer) on the high speed and listen for the rpm to go up, sometimes you’ll have to go in. You’ll be able to hear the sweet spot. Low speed screw is a bit more touchy and usually only needs adjusted when you’re having an idle issue. Just remember IN will lean the mixture and OUT will richen mixture.
The only thing is that you have a “ Dealers” computer access and the rest of us don’t. So can an individual buy the computer accessories so he/she could perform this work at home? If one bought a new carburetor and installed it the saw still wouldn’t run correct? So how much would a shop charge to update a brand new carburetor?
I have the Common Service Tool because I work part time at a Husqvarna dealer. It is not available to the public. Stihl allows the end user to buy theirs but it's expensive. Some dealers charge to hook up a saw to the diagnostic machine, some don't. If you ask nice they should. To install the firmware on the carb it is only necessary to have the carb in hand and have the ignition coil number. It doesn't need to be on the saw is what I'm trying to say.
@@richardflagg3084 Thank you for the information. I’m going to buy a new one since most think their used saw is gold! I had a chance to buy three 562’s one ran but died like in your video and the other two needed to be rebuilt but as you know sometimes they aren’t the deal you though you’re getting and you take a hard hit especially at about $800 + dollars for all 3!
👍🆙RF, Have you checked out Oakie Woodsman's new 562? He's having some trouble with it, the dealer is trying 2 fix it. Sucks 2 get something new and have issues with it from the get go.
Unfortunately because the limited amount of electronics and sensors, the error codes usually only show how may times it stalled or did not start. It would have been worth looking at them with a different symptom like a no start/electrical issue.
Richard how can i send you a short video on Stihl FS 94 R, based on symptoms i replaced a supposed faulty tank vent valve , symptoms were machine would run fine start fine but after a steady high rpm run the engine would lean out and run high idle to the point it engage the clutch, as soon as you crack the fuel cap immediately the idle will drop to normal, thus I fully suspected the tank vent, swapped a new tank vent and same exact issue is still present. Have you come across this ? Stihl FS 94 R Let me know how I can send video, you on Facebook ? I could message you on messenger
Is there a bubbling/gurgling sound in the throat of the carb when you press the primer (purge) bulb even when after cycling it many times? Perhaps a check valve in the carb is stuck. The carb would need to be replaced. I've also seen a cracked manifold (green piece of plastic in between the carb and the cylinder) give similar headaches. I'm not on any other social media. I'm an old fart
@@richardflagg3084 , haven’t checked the carburetor because it doesn’t do it all the time, it almost always happens after maintaining high rpms and the decelerating to idle, sometimes it will idle just fine and then suddenly begin to increase on its own as air leak/ lean condition, but as I said as soon as you crack the seal on the fuel cap the issue resolves to normal idle, thus is the reason I suspected and changed out the tank vent . But no resolution
@@richardflagg3084 I have sprayed a mist around the carb and intake and also front and rear crank seals with no change in rpm, at cold start up it will idle fine, warm idle fine, its only after you bench run it up test rpms and then attempt to return to idle but it stays up above normal low idle enough to keep the clutch shoes engaged, and again as soon as you vent the fuel tank by cracking the cap loose it idles back down to disengage the clutch…
@@cbnx82703 Exactly. It's starving for gas after extended full throttle and catching up when you're letting off the throttle. Unless your keeping the throttle wide open while cracking the fuel cap open. Just a guess but without being able to pressure test the fuel tank I can't rule out the vent.
happy i didn't waist a single dime on a 5 series husky saw and never will... thanks for the video
I regret it so much
Great video mate really enjoy your channel
Good info! I battled a 201tc recently. Saw quit running in the tree. Guy threw it from tree. So I replaced broken parts and it ran great for 5 days then won’t start but had spark. Replaced harness. Ran good for 6 days. After that no start same situation. Replaced black fuel solenoid with another black one off a parts carb. Started up fist pull and is on day 4 of running good. I know what you mean when you say fingers crossed haha.
I’m glad you share things like this.
👍🆙🐊
@@Doc-Cole_Trickle-of-Chainsaws chomp
Thanks for the info. Yet another reason I am old school. Well that and I'm old. Have a great day sir.
Thank you so much for this video! I had my choke lever on the wrong side of the spring. Never would have known that. My saw came as a box of part.
take off the carb and release the screw in the center of round plate . turn this plate about 2 degree. that will increase the ideal speed on suitable rpm about 3000.
Amazing video thanks so much
Doesn't seem like an unreasonable repair considering the hours👍🏻
Man that bark left quick!
Rich nice work. 👍👍👍
I was thinking AT or air leak.
The filter housing pointed to the 1st gen design, they had some AT and sealing problems. Overall I like them saws. 🙂
Another good reason for a safety lense, that big hunk of bark would have been no joke.
Yep😳
Exelente prbns p video🇧🇷👍
Good video 👍👍
Nice video. I bought a 545 from a friend who was frustrated with the saw. I did some research and found that there’s a auto tune rest process for the auto tune. None of this info is in the operation manual that comes with the saw from Husky.
how does that pause come about?how to calibrate idle speed?545mk2 thanks!
I wish you can do more test on the red armor oil
Ugh.. that's more tedious as working on the 400 series huskies. You are a patient man, sir.
Hi Richard- thanks for a very interesting clip!!
So have i got it that you need the genuine Husky software to install a new carb on all their auto tune saws??
Also if so does this apply to the stihl mtronics??i.e stihl software-
Many thanks for your time
Enjoying the channel, keep it up.
How did you go about getting access to he husky diagnostic tool and software? I have stihl's mdg1 and sds but husky isn't willing to grant me access to theirs. Makes servicing my husky clients unrealistic
Will how did you get the Stihl software?
Since you work a small engine shop, do you know where I could find seals for 3214 Mac that is still in good condition except for an air leak.
How much do you screw the low and high adjustment screws on the carburetor for a Sthil weed eater FS 90 R. It just doesn’t have a very quick response and doesn’t seem like it is Revving up as high as it should.
On our fleet of fs94 and fs111 I’ll hold ours wide open and go an 1/8th of a turn out(richer) on the high speed and listen for the rpm to go up, sometimes you’ll have to go in. You’ll be able to hear the sweet spot. Low speed screw is a bit more touchy and usually only needs adjusted when you’re having an idle issue. Just remember IN will lean the mixture and OUT will richen mixture.
You'll have to sharpen that chain irs quite dull that saw should rip through that log pretty quick if the chain is sharp even hardwood
Old saws never had some issue like this new one....😬
The only thing is that you have a “ Dealers” computer access and the rest of us don’t. So can an individual buy the computer accessories so he/she could perform this work at home? If one bought a new carburetor and installed it the saw still wouldn’t run correct? So how much would a shop charge to update a brand new carburetor?
I have the Common Service Tool because I work part time at a Husqvarna dealer. It is not available to the public. Stihl allows the end user to buy theirs but it's expensive. Some dealers charge to hook up a saw to the diagnostic machine, some don't. If you ask nice they should. To install the firmware on the carb it is only necessary to have the carb in hand and have the ignition coil number. It doesn't need to be on the saw is what I'm trying to say.
@@richardflagg3084
Thank you for the information. I’m going to buy a new one since most think their used saw is gold! I had a chance to buy three 562’s one ran but died like in your video and the other two needed to be rebuilt but as you know sometimes they aren’t the deal you though you’re getting and you take a hard hit especially at about $800 + dollars for all 3!
Reset the saw while running is what it need
Where can I get the interface cord to hook it up to the web
Sorry, It's a dealer only. I work at a dealership. That's the only reason I have access to it.
I live in the middle of the jungle, where do apply for a dealership
am i the only one who noticed the last fuel mix adjust was 0 starts ago . try running the reset in the cut .
👍🆙RF, Have you checked out Oakie Woodsman's new 562? He's having some trouble with it, the dealer is trying 2 fix it. Sucks 2 get something new and have issues with it from the get go.
Is the fuel you're using!
Damn. I should have tried that first. I'm sure that would have fixed it.......
Show hook up to the diagnostic reader please.
I'm curious why you didn't look at the error codes. I heard the saw run, it would have been nice to associate your problem with an error code.
Unfortunately because the limited amount of electronics and sensors, the error codes usually only show how may times it stalled or did not start. It would have been worth looking at them with a different symptom like a no start/electrical issue.
Water in the gas ?
Salieron chafas esas sierras puro diseño de lujo, no sirven, no sirven
Richard how can i send you a short video on Stihl FS 94 R, based on symptoms i replaced a supposed faulty tank vent valve , symptoms were machine would run fine start fine but after a steady high rpm run the engine would lean out and run high idle to the point it engage the clutch, as soon as you crack the fuel cap immediately the idle will drop to normal, thus I fully suspected the tank vent, swapped a new tank vent and same exact issue is still present. Have you come across this ? Stihl FS 94 R
Let me know how I can send video, you on Facebook ? I could message you on messenger
Is there a bubbling/gurgling sound in the throat of the carb when you press the primer (purge) bulb even when after cycling it many times? Perhaps a check valve in the carb is stuck. The carb would need to be replaced.
I've also seen a cracked manifold (green piece of plastic in between the carb and the cylinder) give similar headaches. I'm not on any other social media. I'm an old fart
@@richardflagg3084 , haven’t checked the carburetor because it doesn’t do it all the time, it almost always happens after maintaining high rpms and the decelerating to idle, sometimes it will idle just fine and then suddenly begin to increase on its own as air leak/ lean condition, but as I said as soon as you crack the seal on the fuel cap the issue resolves to normal idle, thus is the reason I suspected and changed out the tank vent . But no resolution
@@richardflagg3084 I have sprayed a mist around the carb and intake and also front and rear crank seals with no change in rpm, at cold start up it will idle fine, warm idle fine, its only after you bench run it up test rpms and then attempt to return to idle but it stays up above normal low idle enough to keep the clutch shoes engaged, and again as soon as you vent the fuel tank by cracking the cap loose it idles back down to disengage the clutch…
@@cbnx82703 Exactly. It's starving for gas after extended full throttle and catching up when you're letting off the throttle. Unless your keeping the throttle wide open while cracking the fuel cap open. Just a guess but without being able to pressure test the fuel tank I can't rule out the vent.
@@richardflagg3084 , pressure and vac tested the fuel tank and vent, tests good