Pinion seal replacement. Fix leaking rear diff Ford Mustang GT, Mach 1, Bullitt, Cobra, F150 8.8
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- čas přidán 22. 10. 2018
- Pinion seal found here:
amzn.to/3sI3uMb
New pinion nut sold here
www.amazon.com/Allstar-ALL721...
Fluid pump here: www.amazon.com/Koehler-Enterp...
*Disclaimer, I am an amazon affiliate and may receive a commission for the referral, but you pay the same price
This video shows how to replace the rear pinion seal. Many people think it's their diff cover, but its often the pinion seal.
Here is the link to my complete Gear install videos:
• Ford 8.8 inch Gear Ins...
Please attempt at your own risk. I will show you in the video the crush sleeve cannot be accessed and this method may get you by but won't be as exact as pulling all the gears. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Another fantastic video! Love how you explain the entire thought process; what to watch for, etc...
RalstigRacing Thank you. I’m glad you enjoyed it and found it worthwhile 👍🏼
Thanks for the video. I just finished changing the rear differential seal on my ‘03 Mustang GT. Your video took me through the steps with ease and confidence.
Thanks for the comment! I’m glad to know the videos are useful. Great job taking it on and getting it done! 👍🏼
GREAT VIDEO LOVED ALL YOUR STEPS GREAT DETAIL
Hey man, great vid. Just changed the seal on my 2004. Thanks!
Awesome Video! I noticed my differential was leaking like that. This will come in handy. Thank you so much!
Thanks! Yeah, straight forward but important to do it right. 👍🏼
Thanks for this video. About to do a seal replacement on a Holden HQ with a Salibury diff.
great step by step video, thank you for sharing your wisdom!
Just did this on my 00 ranger. Only a flat head screw driver and a hammer.
I didnt have those special tools. So far it hasn't leaked again!! Great video brother!
Glad you had an easy fix. Congrats
This was very helpful. Thanks
Great video. Thank you. I have to also do this to my 8.8
Best video I've seen!!
I need to replace the pinion seal on my 06 GT and this video is Excellent!!
Ron Rizun I’m glad you enjoyed it. Feel free to subscribe if you haven’t, and check out my s197 playlist czcams.com/play/PLIjr-uSYDZi5yZnyq-RGsrlF-3TTBiJGF.html
Hey brotha did you do the job your self ? How did it go if so ?
@@BryanRayz Hi Bryan, Yes and it went flawlessly. Everything in the video is spot on. I counted the revolutions, marked the nut (I used finger nail polish). Didn't worry about a thing. The part where he talks about tightening the nut back and it bottoming out is absolutely accurate. It bottomed out and the revolutions were exactly how many I counted. Saved myself a lot of $$$
I get the pleasure of doing this job next week and that crush sleeve had me a little worried but ya just mark and keep track of turns I agree should be sufficient that gasket glue on the seal is a good idea for added security
Hey Danny Johnson, this video is spot on. I just replaced my seal and it was a breeze, bought the seal puller for like 10 bucks (worth every penny imo). Another great video, thanks so much 👍
That’s fantastic! I’m so glad the video was helpful. That’s why I make them. Great job doing the work 🙌🏼
EXCELLENT! I learned something.
My goal! Thanks for the comment
Good video the only thing different i would do is to make sure vent is open and change fluid !
Have to do backing plates on my 87 F150 with a 8.8 this spring.
All ready plan on axle seals so might as well do pinion seal while it's apart.
Norm Howes Definitky worth it. Here is a video I also have for the wheel seal and bearing while you’re at it czcams.com/video/U9kacxhGcd0/video.html
Great video
Great video thanx
Good vid. This is what I do. Remove wheels and make sure the e brake is off and there's no drag. Then put a inch lb torque wrench on and spin the assembly. Record your measurement. On reassembly, shoot for the same number. No need to count threads. Use sealer on the pinion splines too. Also, if you tap an edge up on the seal, you can grab it with a pair of vice grips and pull back against the housing, pulling the seal out.
Can you do this without the differential spinning though?
@PiniMoo no, it has to spin or else you can't measure the drag torque
Thank you!
If you forgot to put the dust shield back on the pinion flange is needed or no big deal if it’s there or not?
No Ford Friction Modifier for the traction lock??? I would definitely be adding that modifier. I even add it to my t-5 transmission, shifts like butter. Nice video, I just thought I would bring that to your attention since no one else commented on it.They do use it from the factory!💯👍
You’ll see me use friction modifier in other videos. In this case I’m only topping off the fluid level so it’s already in the carrier. It’s been 2 years and no gear whine.
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage That's what's up!👍
Another great video bud the step by step instructions are awesome and on the pinion nut couldn't you mark the nut and case also and do the counts?
You can, but you would have to scar mark it. Paint or marker rubs off as I found the first time I did it years ago. It’s hard to really see where it lines up with marks rather than counting revolutions. It’s really best to get it close than go as tight as you can by hand without crushing the crush sleeve any further (which shouldn’t be a problem without a breaker bar)
I also like using the socket method for better visual without having to remove the socket to check. Also, it’s recommended to use a new pinion nut, so marking the nut may not help.
@@dannyjohnsonsgarageTrue I figured you had room to use a punch and mark it(never had mine apart yet)lol to see if theirs room or not but your way is easy enough I wouldn't figure it has to be spot on that's a good idea of counting the threads😊
I've found it much easier to remove the pinion seal by tapping a small flathead screwdriver with a hammer to get under up an edge, then a slightly larger one to continue prying it up. This does not scar the surface.
Take a socket that matches the outside edge of the seal hold it straight on it with a steady hand and tap it in you will feel it and hear it when fully seated
That’s a huge socket most people won’t have
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage sry mechanic from the inside looking out lol😁
Great video and information I’m definitely a new subscriber!! Sir I do have a question and to see if you could give me your opinion I have a 2014 Ford Mustang V6 I just did the swap from a 2010 Mustang GT over to the V6 and the driveshaft I need to switch the pinion flange From my GT over to the V6 I should go ahead and replace the seal and is there any other recommendations you may give me that I should do before I make this switch? Thank you sir and look forward to your reply
If the seal is leaking, definitely replace it (and do it once it’s mounted to the car). The 2014 may already have the track lock diff as I recall, so maybe look into that before all the work for the switch
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage Ok Thank you I will look track lock.. I have to change my opinion flange from the GT over to my V6 I took my old pinion flange off of the GT and I’m ready to install it now on to the V6 do I need to install a new crush washer and how do I know if I have the preload correct? Thank you for all your help sir I definitely really appreciate it!! 💯👍
Hey Danny, I just removed my pinion nut and it was only 15 turns. The thing is...I didn't need a breaker bar and I was using the size 1/2 ratchet that you used. I think if was actually loose. So my plan is to use red locktite when putting the pinion nut back on 15 turns but will continue to turn until stop with no breaker bar use. I think I should get at least 15 and some when tightening. Does that sound about right. I did spray PB blaster and let it set over night on the nut but I don't think it would have made it that loose. It was super easy to remove. By the way, the flange was easy to remove with little effort using a puller. Probably because the nut was loose?
It’s possible it has been off before and that’s why it’s so easy. Yeah, I would put it on by hand and crank it down. You shouldn’t be able crush the crush sleeve further by hand, but it’s possible, so just get it tight
I saw you did mark the rear flange and drive shaft area for proper realignment. Is it not necessary to mark the front drive shaft where it slides in? Also, if the front u joint is replaced while the drive shaft is out then it should be marked to go back in the same orientation also?
The drive shaft is externally balanced (off the car) so it really isn’t as important to mark relationships, and new parts will change a lot of it. It’s an old practice to ensure if it was fine when it comes off it should be fine going back on. If aligned at the rear, it should line back into the transmisión since the transmission has not rotated.
can we have a link for the pinion flange pulled you used? also is this the exact same process for a 07 auto GT?
Mine was an older snap on brand one, but it should be something like this. Yes, same process on 07 GT www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LC7MC52/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=2004047-20&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B07LC7MC52&linkId=6189965096094b1617160176fab62cc3
Can you not re-use the pinion nut with loctite ? That way you could make an index mark on the nut and flange for extra assurance when you reassemble and tighten the nut.
You can if you want to. The nuts are designed to slightly crush and deform, but can still be used. Make sure to use that lock tite. I had one walk off on me years ago and eat the track lock
How much time does Ford call for to do this
Would it be the same process for 2006 mustang gt
It should be about the same. Check part numbers and torque specs to be sure
I’ve always had a problem with my ring n pinion leaking on my 94 GT. Do you have any recommendations of replacement parts that will discontinue the leak.
1sik sn95 It depends on where it is leaking. It can really only be from the rear cover or this pinion area
1sik sn95 if it's the pinion area then it could be a bad joint on the driveshaft, or a bad bearing inside the pinion gear
I have a diff leak on a 2014 mustang gt, will this work on that car also. And what would cause diff leak on such a new car.
Ur habibi Yes, same process. Sometimes the deals just fail.
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage Ah ok thanks for the great informative video brother.
Hi,
I followed this video to the letter and it is awesome. However, I’m noticing a hum coming from the rear end now. Did I over tighten my pinion nut?
It’s possible it’s too tight if you used more than a hand wrench to tighten it down, but it can also have come loose if you didn’t use red lock tite and a new pinion nut. Mine came loose very quickly the first time without the new nut and lock tite. The best thing to do is remove the driveshaft and see if you can jiggle the flange on the differential (where it attaches). If it seems tight, turn it by hand (with the parking brake off) to ensure it’s not too tight and bound up
So my lock and nut are not loose. I reviewed your video again and when I pulled my differential everything thing loosened up and came forward. I your video you only lose a little gear oil my eventually all leaked out. No problem I filled it up. But I do notice a little slop when I moved the differential to see if it was bound up (it wasn’t, it moved just fine). But like I said it has some slop. Any ideas?
Thank you for the reply hopefully you can understand my last reply it’s not very well written. Basically everything looks okay (nothing loose) except I do have slop when I turn the differential.
Bye the way,I know longer have a leak.
Does the pinion seal and pinion nut in the link fit a 2002 Mustang V6 ?
Yes, the pinion nut is the same for the 8.8 and the 7.5
Can i do the same job for a 07 towncar and same tools??
george vala Yes
Hi Danny,
I have a 69 Mustang Mach 1, 428 CJ, 4 spd. top loader. I looked at the 69 ford shop manual, which covers the entire '69 Ford line. It's not known for its clarity.. From what I have read on some topics, I don't know how Ford ever made a running vehicle. The manual covers a removable carrier and an integral carrier. I have a removable carrier, though both types are listed for the Mustang. For the removable carrier, the manual covers the pinion seal replacement for a "collapsible spacer" (your crush sleeve) and a "solid spacer". Any idea which I would have?
For the crush sleeve it says to install a torque wrench on the pinion nut, and record the In-Lb to rotate the pinion shaft. After seal replacement to tighten the nut to provide an additional 8 to 14 In-Lb of rotational torque.
For the solid spacer it says to tighten the nut while rotating the pinion to seat the bearing and then torque to 180 to 200 FOOT-POUNDS.
Of course, the manual calls out four different special tools to complete the task.
I'm guessing your match marks on the drive shaft yoke and the axle u-joint flange are so that the u-joints are in phase on reassembly. However the shop manual also calls for match marks on the pinion shaft and the inside surface of the u-joint flange. Any thoughts as to why?
Danny, thank you for any advice you can give an old man.
This setup for the 8.8” has a crush sleeve, and as you’ll see in mu gear install vidoes it takes a larger breaker bar to crush it. In my experience, it’s useless to try to mark the pinion threads to put it exactly back where it was. You’re best off tightening it as much as you can by hand with a 1/2” ratchet and make sure it’s a new pinion nut with lock tite.
I am not familiar with the older rear end on your 69 mach 1, so all I can really say is what works on the 8.8”. I imagine it’s similar. Best of luck!
Thanks Danny
my nephew impacted his pinion nut...it binded the wheels from turning freely...i told him to back off of it until we saw oil dripping from the yoke and retighten it by hand only...it makes a whining noise now i believe due to the crush sleeve was damaged...question...
can we replace the crush sleeve by removing the yoke, bearing and washers without tearing down the entire rear end and taking out from the rear?
The front pinion bearing will be in the way. I do have a full tutorial for replacing the gears. It will not be too bad since you aren’t changing any shims. They just need to go back in where they were. Ford Mustang 8.8 Gear Install
czcams.com/play/PLIjr-uSYDZi5fnxxp6D9MO7_QlTzizaUf.html
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage
So the front bearing can't come out through the front?...the entire rear end has to taken apart....😔
Thanks for responding!
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage by the way... it's a 07 f150 4.6 2x2
@dannyjohnsonsgarage
My pinion nut ended up 180 degrees off from the mark I put on the nut and the matching mark I put on the flange. How would've this happened? I'm certain I put the nut back on 16 1/2 times as that was what it took to get it off. Should I be concerned? Or is it good enough that I got it tightened back 16 1/2 times?
It may depend on where the nut starts threading onto to pinion. In the video you’ll see mine also went a bit farther back on. You won’t crush the crush sleeve further with just a hand ratchet. In my install video you’ll see it takes a large breaker bar and cheater bar. It should be just fine but if you used the old nut it must have lock tite or it will walk off.
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage yeah, I used the old nut, cleaned all the old loctite out and put new loctite red 271 in. I started the nut at the same spot I took it off from with the paint marks lined up on the nut and the flange. When I got to 16 1/2 turns the paint mark on the nut was 180 degrees past the paint mark on the flange. I felt like a 1/2 inch ratchet wasn't enough torque as laying on your back in a weird position with no room doesn't give you any leverage, so I did use a breaker bar and then a torque wrench set to like 135 ft lbs when I got to the 16 1/2 inch mark. I was not able to make the torque wrench click at that torque setting, as again, there was no way I could get that kind of leverage on my back. I hope I didn't over tighten it, but I was also worried a ratchet wasn't generating enough torque either while on my back. Thanks for the video and quick response. I'm going to let everything sit for 24 hours before adding fluid and trying it out. I'll let you know the results!
Hey Danny. Great video I will be following your instructions on how to change the seal. Can you point me towards the type of puller I will have to use? Maybe I can rent one from the auto store. But not sure which one I would need. Thanks Danny
Yeah, try to see what you can rent, but if you buy one they sell just the puller part (mine was a complete snap on set so I would recommend buying that) but here is one for reference that would work. They have different sizes to choose from so I would think the 6” would be plenty big, 3” might be the right size but not big enough in the end www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08G8SQ7FJ/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=2004047-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B08G8SQ7FJ&linkId=10a017d81e24608e5b06a240d0e52e70
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage Thanks Danny I appreciate it. I think Harbor freight had a set but like you mentioned one was small one was huge. If I can’t rent one I’ll buy the assorted set. I have the harbor freight “bolt type wheel puller set” but not sure that set would do me any good. Again thank you for the recommendations!
I changed the pinion seal the other day. I had a new nut also. I counted the threads and made a mark like you said. Everything seemed to go well but when the marks met up the yoke wasn’t fully tightened which was a little weird. I tightened the nut about another turn and then it seemed good. The amount of threads showing was the same. Just threw me off a little bit. Went for a short ride and it seemed fine. I want to do some more driving and check for leaks but it’s been so damn cold here and work has been busy
@@jamesa6272 for the nut to line up exactly where it did it would also have to go on (start) right how the other one did as well. As long as you have lock tite and put it on as tight as you can without a breaker bar it should be good.
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage yes I used a dab of red loctite and the loctite that was on the new nut tight with a 1/2 inch ratchet without a breaker bar
What size socket for the pinion nut ?
1-1/16” is what the video said
This is happening to my 00 mustang right now, how much does this cost ?
If you do it yourself it’s just the price of the seal, diff fluid, and your time
Danny, I’ve been on the fence about doing this myself. I have an 04 cobra also. What worries me is damaging the sleeve after reassembly. I have an appointment with Ford to do it, but I fear the tech who will do it will be rushed for time and over torque the nut.
I also like to do my own work at take the time needed. If you’re using hand tools as the video shows and not a huge breaker bar, you won’t crush the sleeve any further. I would try it first and if it’s bad then let them do it. Here is my irs playlist too for other work czcams.com/play/PLIjr-uSYDZi4GVUMK2SdUL74fClSt4-IZ.html
Does this apply for a 96 mustang gt sn95
Greg Rogers Yes 👍🏼
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage awesome man thanks 🤙🤙🤙
Man how did you get the pinion nut off? I am struggling. Laying on your back makes it worse
It’s super tight! A thicker breaker bar with a pipe over it (cheater bar) might work
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage it is super tough! Probably the worse job I’ve ever done. Yes I was trying that but it’s just no room to put a a pipe over the breaker bar. Then I have to worry about how I am going to exert enough force to move the bolt. On top of that, I tried to insert a few bolts to hold the flange but it’s just difficult. I am investing in a air gun lol
There are even some good electric impacts out there (maybe borrow one from someone). Sometimes it’s best to put the impact on and go tight, loose, tight, loose in short bursts to break it free.
You can also try putting a jack under the handle when you’re pushing on the right direction (coming out the driver side so it’s counter clockwise on the way up) but be very careful not to lift the car off the jack stands that way
czcams.com/video/IYbVH2Igk6E/video.htmlsi=wY_XDg0eAHfb7UMM
is the same for mustang 2007 gt?
Yes
What happer if the mechanic dont mark the pinion flange with the u join base?
Luisvt you could get a vibration from the driveshaft and pinion flange being out of balance
Danny Johnson oh i see i order a new ford performance pinion flange thinking it would fix what it left of vibration since i all ready replaced the pinion bearings install bbk control arms and replaced the upper axle bushings and installing new u-joints, do you know where can i find in what holes must be torqued the driveshaft-pinion flage bolts to tell that to the mecanic since the only place i can have as reference of it is in your video thank you
Luisvt If it’s a new flange there isn’t really any way of knowing. You can try rotating the drive shaft to the next position to see if it helps.
Nothing will happen at all! all driveshafts are balanced outside of the vehicle independent of everything else. as long as it isnt taken apart at the u joints it will retain its balance. the pinion flange is balanced separately as well. the only time you need to mark them is when doing a u joint change. also he should have marked the nut and pinion shaft before breaking it free to be able to put it exactly where it was before. btw great vid
Night Rider You’re forgetting that as the car’s parts wear as it’s setup from the factory it needs to now be replaced for that pattern.
Also, I did mark a relationship, but it wears off when removing the nut, so you’re better off counting revolutions. Same thing
Can I use loctite blue?
I would be cautious to do so because it is very bad news if it comes loose. It’s up to you, just make sure you have some form of lock tite. The new pinion nut should have some too. If you use an old nut it will likely come off easier
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage okay thank you!
What size socket do I need to remove the pinion nut? Also, is the diff universal joint and the trans universal joint the same size? I removed both of the ujoints and they look the same size. Working on 2003 GT. Thanks
1-1/16” socket (shown at 6:30 in the video). Make sure to have the u joints pressed back in. A friend of mine did not listen and beat his back in and it locked up and cracked his transmission in half.
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage Yep, used the ball joint press. Worked like a champ. Thanks brother
Honestly just count the threads of shaft to get how tight you need it.
That’s the start, but if it’s loose it will walk off. You need thread locker and it won’t hurt to put it on by hand. You won’t crush the crush sleeve further with a hand ratchet
you technically should get a new pinion nut each time as well
Yes. That is best, and luckily I had one