How To Replace Pinion Seal 8.8 Rear End
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- čas přidán 13. 05. 2018
- How To Replace Pinion Seal Ford 8.8 Rear End!
Replacing The Pinion Seal In my 99-04 Mustang GT.
Hardest part is getting to it. Watch this video and take your time.
The proper tools will help.
This process is same for a lot of rear ends.
Ford used the 8.8 Rear end in many vehicles.
1986-2017 Ford Mustang
1982-2012 Ford F-150
1982-1996 Ford Bronco
1991-2011 Ford Ranger 4.0L models
1991-2001 Ford Explorer (Solid axle)
1985-2011 Ford Panther platform vehicles
I hope this helped!
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Lots of mistakes in the video, but I appreciate you making it. Learned a lot from the comments. Now I'm ready to change my leaky 91 mustang
Great video man, thanks for the pointers!
You're welcome!
I had to do this today on my 2002 Mustang GT . To start, you need to mark the drive shaft location to the flange. A super easy way to get the new seal on, is to use the flange itself. Tighten it down some and the seal is in. You then need to take the flange back off, of course, and lightly tap the seal all the way in. Also a seal puller makes it very easy to remove the old seal. Use an inch pound torque wrench and set it to 8 - 14 inch pounds. Tighten the pinion nut with a regular wrench until you think it's tightened enough. Then turn the pinion nut with the inch pound wrench and when the flange turns along with the tires at no more than 14 inch pounds, you have the nut tightened down enough. If it shows more than 14, you then have to loosen the nut a little and repeat until it's just right.
Heck yeah, glad you got it.
My 2000 ranger started leaking. So i may change the pinion seal this weekend. Now that i have seen you video i know how to change it.
Good luck.
You make it look easy
Haha thank you.. the power of video 😂
So, putting the nut back in the same place does you no good because the crush sleeve doesn’t “uncrush”. Your pinion bearing preload will be at 0. Spec is 8-14 inch pounds on used bearings. Too little preload on the pinion causes the seal to leak and can cause gear and/or bearing failure. You can’t reuse crush sleeves, it must be replaced every time the pinion nut is removed. The advice in this video is a good way to ruin a differential.
So, are you saying use a pullar and not a mallet?
@@bendadestroyer No, he's not saying anything about taking it off, he's talking about putting it back on. He's saying the nut should not be tightened the same distance as the previous time, it should be tightened until the pinion resists with 8-14in-lbs of torque. Also that a new crush sleeve needs to be used every time, since it gets crushed upon tightening.
As it is in the video there's not enough preload.
Incorrect, you can achieve pinion preload without a crush washer. The crush washer is just so you can slowly adjust the preload until it’s perfect.
Good stuff thanks for the info
You're welcome 🤙
@@killrspeed00 actually replaced it in 2 hours thanks to this. I rented the tool to pull off the flange though
There ya go. Yeah if I had to do it again I'd probably rent the tool also..
Just a couple comments. You do not have to worry about clocking it on the pinion flange. That is an Internet myth that probably comes from telescoping driveshafts that pull apart in the center, or split shafts like an F250 or late m Mustang has. The driveshaft is independently balanced in the Fox and SN and everything one piece. As long as holes line up you are good.
The issue is also not stretching the threads. The issue is adding crush to the crush sleeve. The crush sleeve sets preload on the bearing and ultimately pinion depth. Gently tapping it on while tightening the nut is a great idea, but only so it seats back against the crush sleeve without changing preload. I would still torque the nut to 30-40 lbs with a socket to be sure it the flange fully seats but does NOT increase crush. Any wrench without some torque indication is not really a good way to do the final tightening. It has to be seated hard, but not enough to change the d bearing preload by crushing the sleeve beyond the initial setting when pinion depth was set.
Jerry, I'm about to do this on my 1999 GT Mustang. Any tips for a DIYer? Please explain like I'm 5 lol.
That was a great tip, I mean checking the torque BEFORE loosening the pinion nut so that when the new nut is placed, it should theoretically put on the same amount of preload as it was.. also, not a bad idea to check rotation with a in-lbs torque indicator with the wheels off. It will confirm the correct preload is set.
I have a popping sound coming from my rear when it's in drive and I'm just rolling but not when I give it gas. what do you think that is? it sounds like it's coming from the rear end.
No I haven't had any reason to mess with the rear end of the atv. Try to look at the chain and sprocket when you are rolling. My guess is something loose or broken in the rear end.
Why didn’t u show part of what tool u used to take off the drive shaft bolts and the bolt for the piñon bolt
Great video! Did it fix the leak? FYI, do not pull out the driveshaft from the transmission or all the fluid will drain out. Also, be extra careful tapping that seal in. I would use a seal installer or big socket if u have one.
Yes it did and yes I agree with both statements.
Automotive Junkie my install comments were mainly for the new guys. I think u have good following of subscribers going. Need another video. 💪
@@todd5082 yes I do. Unfortunately I sold the camaro. Hopefully part will be getting ordered soon, I just don't want to spend money right now with all this shit going on.
So is this the same process for the Ford ranger 3.0? In the description you only stated the 4.0L lol mines a 8.8 open diff
Yes if I'm not mistaking its the same thing.
Did you have to drain it first or can you change it while its full?
There is really no draining. It's just how much comes out while you pull the seal. It will only all drain out if you remove the rear dif cover.
Can you remove the whole pinion bearing while your in there or does the whole diff have to come out
You should be able to get the whole bearing out.
You can get one of the two pinion bearings out. There's an inner and outer bearing. To get the inner bearing out, you'll neet to remove the whole differential.
How did it turn out? Did the leak stop, did you have issues with the preload with the gears afterward? I am about to have to do the same thing with my Crown Vic.
All in all it came out fine. I haven't noticed any issues with the gears yet and the leak did stop but of course now it's leaking from somewhere else 😂.
@@killrspeed00 I am going to do mine this weekend. I am going to change my fluid and reseal the rear cover while I am at it.
Yeah that was my plan until I realized someone went to town with the sealant around my cover lol.
@@killrspeed00 I had a leak in what I thought was the rear diff. So, I recently changed the fluid in my rear diff. Shortly after, I noticed a roaring noise when I brake. I dont know if its the braking system or the rear gears. Any thoughts? I just ordered rear pads and rotors so I'm hoping that fixes it but its very concerning.
@@bendadestroyer seems to be the brakes but if that doesnt fix the issue it's either the gears or wheel bearings.
The crush spacer should be replaced when the pinion nut is removed because you lose your bearing preload. If you measure the turns(not the starting torque but after you turning). If you don't have a dial torque wrench you can use the scale connected to a bolt in the driveshaft flange.. Pull on scale but try to stay at 90° as you pull. Most importantly do this before you touch the nut so then you do tighten the pinion nut you can set the torque to the same that it was before you took it apart
What size is the socket to take the nut out
If I'm not mistaking Its a 1 1/16. I used an adjustable wrench and breaker bar.
Everyone says something different with the preload and final nut adjustment. If it takes so much tourque to crush the crush sleeve can’t you just tighten the nut until tight but not gorilla it so that it crushes the sleeve anymore? I mean you need a breaker bar and a lot of leverage to crush that sleeve.
I would say yes it would work in theory but I'm no master mechanic.
Yes I listen to stupid replies don’t go to tight. And had to take the driveshaft off three times. Finally I used my 1/2 impact wrench and got it tight. No more noise after that. It takes about 300 to 400 pounds to crush that sleeve. You are fine make sure it’s tight!!!
I dont think 300 or 400 and I am a master mechanic
@1:05 Need's more fixin......heaa! Funniest shit EVER!!!!!!!
Haha heck yeah. 🤣🙃
Did it stop leaking
Yes
Using a hammer to install the pinion flange most likely threw off your backlash
probably a vernier caliper not a micrometer
Yeah that's what I was thinking of. Couldn't remember the name 😂
Oh, almost forgot, the nut is a 1-uses item. It also needs to be replaced
Highly recommend, taking a little extra time and getting the right puller. Not a good idea to hit the pinion flange with a sledgehammer !!!! Notice how he didn't show any of that.
Agreed!
Pissin on a pole,lmao🤣🤣
How u white but got mad wavey hair
I have a brother from another mother 😂