Ha ha ha, no joke,i actually work in machine shop though and we pretty much have all these tools and i still wouldn't try it,i can build a motor blind folded but when it comes to this nothing is more frustrating than getting done and taking it for a test drive and then find out its screaming down the road cause your pre-load is wrong and having to start all over, no sir.
I wouldnt trust an install for 500$ Probably cut a few corners. This isnt a job for a lube tech. Someone with the tools and know how to do this values their time and wont be offering their quality work for a bargain
This is likely the most precise and concise tutorial on 8.8 gear replacement= even nine years down the road. Very few videos discuss preload or backlash at all. Thanks for sharing correct information and resources.
@@latemodelrestorationLandon, how much horizontal play should be on that axle? I just bought a 88 GT and I can jack the rear up and move the axles about 1/8”-1/4” horizontally on both sides. This seems excessive to me. But, they do not come out so I’m pretty sure the c clips are in there.
@@mikenonameneeded3485 Per Ford: the acceptable maximum axle end play is .030". If the car has miles and has lived a hard life, I'd say it's time for a rear end rebuild based on the end play. -Landan
if I had you as an instructor for college I would have stayed in for another semester as others might concur your narration and information is poignant and has inflection that annotated transitions from point to point keep up the good work ,Sir.
Of course I'm in the middle of putting 4.10s in my Cobra today and you post this video. Although I have a few more steps with the IRS, this is a great visual aid to go with Ford's instructions. Thanks for posting this and shipping everything out so quick!
Damn... Was considering doing this soon but I think I'll start with the new intake manifold throttle body, heads cam and exhaust first... This is a little complicated for the ammount of experience i have at the moment haha
if you have an sn95 of any kind these are the best mod you can do for the price. its only like 400 if you do it all yourself, and it makes an enormous difference to your torque
Wow this was the best video in 10 minutes.. I like to watch how to videos before I take something on and sometimes they're long... this was nice and easy to get an idea of the steps involved in a full rear end refresh/upgrade.... I did the same thing with my AOD... ordered a step by step video . paused every step just to be safe.. and successfully built a nice performance AOD.
Great video. I used to think this was something beyond my capabilities. After watching, I'm sure this something I can do. Thank you for taking the time.
This is probably the best and easiest video I've seen on doing this. I need to find a hydraulic press at a garage sale or craigslist and I am going for it.
Love the step by step guide. ***** Wish I would have had this a year ago when I did my install a year ago. Lol, had a few hick ups along the way. Luckily nothing needed to be replaced.
My son just had his 93 GT 3.73's installed by an old 4x4 pro (Billy Young) here in Tulsa,Ok. $650.00 parts and labor with an OEM Ford Ring/Pinion. No aftermarket Ford Performance stuff. My son is quite happy getting rid of those lazy 2.73's!!
What about setting pinion depth? There is a big problem with this video where it says to put factory shim on the new pinion. You would be very lucky if that was the correct shim for the new pinion. In my case it was not. It caused me a lot of grief to have to take everything back apart because tooth pattern indicated the pinion depth needed to be increased. You have to press off the pinion bearing again so you can add or change shims. You will destroy the new bearing when you do this because a bearing separator can only catch the outer cage of the bearing to pull it off. The cage of bearing destroyed in the process. I ran out to the local parts store to pickup a new bearing, but I painstakingly find out the bearing did match the Ford Racing bearing race already installed. If you leave in the Ford Racing bearing race, the carrier will hit the pinion because the aftermarket bearing is not seated in the race. It took me several hours to figure out the problem with the bearing. I assembled and disassembled too many times to count. LMR, please add a section on setting pinion depth using the pinion depth tool you sell. Also, please emphasize more that the pinion resistance to turn is inch pounds and not foot pounds. The video does say inch pounds. However, I made the mistake and used foot pounds. I had to take it apart once again to replace crush sleeve. Murphy's Law was in effect and the new crush sleeve from my local Autozone store won't crush. I broke two half inch drives using a 6 foot wrench. The Autozone crush sleeve refuses to crush. At this point the nut is so tight on the pinion, I don't know if I can get it off without damaging the pinion. All this started from watching this video. I did purchase the ring and pinion kit form LMR, it was logical for me to watch their install video. But wow did it set off a chain of events!
4:07, literally looks like the race driver just nicked the middle section of the outer race lol. I've seen this in other videos too for some reason i believe this but apparently someone told me this is not true. 6:35 i think thats bad on the tapered bearings because you're loading the bearings pushing them in with the hydraulic press, i believe if you used a driver set with the tapered side facing up and that 2 jaw piece that on the bottom, not to mention take off the outer race and i think it might be better, IMO! These are great steps 1-10 instructions, Great work!
@jp demolet keep cranking on it like he's doing in the video with the giant breaker bars against his shoulder. Do this until the flange sits flush against the yoke, so there's no more play. Then put a torque wrench on the nut and turn the pinion. The resistance is actually what you're measuring (16-20 inch lbs on new bearings).
If more people understood the technicalities and knowledge required for working on vehicles, they'd stop complaining about the high costs of maintenance. They need to realize that they are not just paying for parts, but for the specialty tools and intricate knowledge required for correct installation.
Buy the whole kit guys and not *just* the 4.10 ring and pinion... I tried to skate by and re-use everything but it didn't work. Now I have to take everything back out and do it all over again. Trust me, spend the extra money for the kit with new seals and bearings.
wrdmndan akdude God damn you. God damn god. Wait, why does your god have a penis, this must mean he has a family with a father and mother of his own since you know he is a he and not an it.
wrdmndan akdude I bet that makes you feel real special when you say that, like it means something. Watch while my knees don't bow and my tongue clearly states that Jesus Christ is nothing and nobody to me and god is just an idea someone made up.
Didn't point out measuring pinion gear depth before removing, then torqued the crush sleeve down. Need to measure depth or you'll have bad runout and noises and have to take it apart again with a new crush sleeve. The crush sleeve is how you set pinion gear depth, not reusable once set unless marks are good on the ring for depth. Otherwise good video.
everyone says you need a very expensive inch pound dial torque wrench, but you suggest a beam style inch pound torque wench (which is a lot cheaper). is there any good reason to buy an expensive dial torque wrench or is this cheap beam style just as good for this job ?
I love american muscle, im a mustang enthusiasts and you guys keep me supplied, I would like to see more on the 2003 ford mustang gt deluxe coupe 5 speed.
If you’re going to do it... 2 ft breaker bar, 2 foot 2 inch wide x 3/8 mild steel bar. Drill holes on steel bar to match flange pattern. Fasten bar to flange and put the end against the ground. Take the 2ft breaker bar, put the nut to tension then place breaker bar handle on a scissor jack seat. Keep the breaker bar as perpendicular to the pinion nut as possible unless you desire summer teeth. Use a large gator bit and and impact wrench to extend the scissor jack torquing your pinion nut. This process is VERY incremental. Prepare for repetitions. BUT it forces you to stop when you are getting close and check preload. The only other tip I have is make sure you can tricep press at least 70lbs with ease.
Had driveline slop that I could not find.Had checked everything but the ring and pinion/ motorsport traction lock. Had a shop replace the rear axles.Shouldnt they have been able to see if the ring and pinion backlash was off and or tractipn loc? Would it have been obvious? Thx!
Guys it's really easy. Soo much easier than it looks. And a lot of the tools you need to buy you will need someday anyway. Just don't forget to check the runout on the ring gear!!! I got a bad ring gear on my very first try at it. Didn't check runout on final assembly. Had a lot of road noise. After several pattern checks and shim swaps, I finally checked the true-ness of the ring gear. It was bad. FR won't take it back if you drive on it. Period.
Well you have convinced me NOT to do this. Strut/spring cartridges are one thing - this is too much math. So, what would a reasonable mechanic charge labor wise? I'd provide my own parts since I do not want Japanese in my Moose.
Hello, I don't understand why you use that special torque wrench when you tighten the pinion nut first with an air gun and then with a lever. Does the pinion nut have a prescribed torque? Can't I do it with a "classic" torque wrench?
The impact in the video is not capable of "crushing" the crush sleeve. That's why we say, "some good old fashion muscle is needed to crush the new crush sleeve". A beam-type torque wrench is used as a "scale" to measure the amount of torque being applied. The rotational resistance specifications are mentioned in the video. -Landan
Most of the special tools can be rented fairly cheaply and some tall jack stands can get you pretty far. I wouldn't write it off too quickly. I'm an amateur mechanic without a lift and have overhauled two Dana 35s and a Ford 8.8 under Jeeps without a lift.
Northern Illinois Street Racing It is pretty hard to mess up in a permanent way. If you do mess up, you will know it before you start driving and will have a chance to fix it. Just get a manual with all the steps and specs and take it slowly. As long as you have some basic experience with mechanical stuff you should be fine.
+Northern Illinois Street Racing Seems like it would be easier and cheaper finding someone parting out a car with an complete dif with the ratio you want. Of course from a compatible year model so you can do a direct swap.
Ahh man great vid. Im looking into buying ur 8.8 bullet proof set with 31 spline. This will help out alot. Thats my biggest fear. The shimming part. But I kniw I can do it. Also i wondered about the back slash . 2 reasons why I didnt or havent done it yet. Great vid guys!
Isn't it a bad idea to press the bearing onto the carrier using the race? This transfers all the press force through the races and needles. I have seen hub bearings go out because of not supporting the inner race when the hub is pressed in.
I cant find the instructions on your website , I looked in the Tech , Faq and Download sections and cant seem to find it ...... can your provide a link to the instructions for download ?
***** if i just bought the ring and pinion gears because all the bearing had been replaced like a year and a half a go what sould the resistance be at the pinion flange
so I pulled out the differential without knowing which side the shims go on which side I noticed one is bigger than the other would I notice incorrect backlash and wear pattern and adjust or how do I fix this mistake?
The instructions on your website are completely different than what you have in this video, where did you get the ones in this video because the "correct patterns" are different and I'm not sure which one I should be going by.
Man I failed at this once and a shop I used did it last time (howling failure) as well . Can’t figure this dam 8.8 out , think 🤔 I’m upgrading to a 9inch which I know I can set up👍
on my old stang, the part was only like $170 but installation was $1000. I went to the best shop for this though just because I knew the complexity of it. You can probably find it cheaper. I did this 12 years ago.
In your experience -- can you just simply replace the ring and pinion using the stock shim? In the video I see that you just replace the factory shim on the new pinion. Thanks!!
Yes you can. In the FRPP installation guide you will find even more indepth look some of these questions. You can download it on Ford Racing Gear Product pages. You can see them here - www.latemodelrestoration.com/products/Mustang-Rear-End-Gears
Just opened my "Ford Racing" gears and found the following part number stamped on the pinion... 1L5LA MOU. Does this mean that I dont have ford gears that will most likely line up like the ones in your video ?
Carlos Oneil I'm not sure if you are asking about new rear end gear box you opened up or old gears in your rear end. Please give us a call and we can help you with this question - 254-296-6500
Cool video...let me start calling shops how much they charge cus for damn sure i dont have any of those tools or even plan on taking on a job like that
I am 62 Do you think I could finish this procedure before I forget how to finish it. demetia forever I can get it apart like anybody else but we all know thats not the hard part When I 19 took apart a muncie transmission I went and bought and with the info from the manual got it back together I think that ability has long since sailed
...so we need a couple hundred dollars worth of specialty tools. I noticed after replacing my tyranny in my 2000 mustang get that only the p/s rear wheels spins. All power to that wheel sucks. Any ideas what the issue is? Some forums said to change the diff fluid and add additive and see if that helps.
If you only have one wheel spinning then more than likely you have a a bad differential. The clutches in it have worn out. You can try to change the fluids but from plenty of previous experience you probably have worn out the clutches in the diff. -- Jeff J
My dear, congratulations on the video! I live in Brazil, I have problem in my Ford Explorer 2004, she gives a jolt, sometimes they constantly put in reverse or "d", the stride is giving this more when I'm moving and shooting off the throttle once , gives the stride, when floor once also gives the stride, like a hit metal, or something working loose, what do you think? May be in the transmission box? Or differential? Underscoring that peaceful machas pass without any stride. I'm grateful for the attention.
I was hoping you would show the install of a modified shim pack. As they can be pretty tricky to get everything to stay in line (shim packs and the diff) as you are installing it in rear end. I remember trying to use grease to try to get the shims to stick together. It didn't work! I ended up flipping my stock shims and it worked out that way. Is there a trick to getting the diff in with the aftermarket shim packs? I think I had like 8 shims on one side and 2 on the other where the stock is easy 1 and 1. Hope that makes sense!
Does a new shift governor and or shift kit need to be installed after a rear end gear change, or is only the speedometer gear need replaced as the only modification to the transmission?
The first minute and half is basically a list of parts I don't own haha
Rite!
Ha ha ha, no joke,i actually work in machine shop though and we pretty much have all these tools and i still wouldn't try it,i can build a motor blind folded but when it comes to this nothing is more frustrating than getting done and taking it for a test drive and then find out its screaming down the road cause your pre-load is wrong and having to start all over, no sir.
I wouldnt trust an install for 500$ Probably cut a few corners. This isnt a job for a lube tech. Someone with the tools and know how to do this values their time and wont be offering their quality work for a bargain
This is likely the most precise and concise tutorial on 8.8 gear replacement= even nine years down the road. Very few videos discuss preload or backlash at all. Thanks for sharing correct information and resources.
Thanks for the feedback! We appreciate it. -Landan
@@latemodelrestorationLandon, how much horizontal play should be on that axle? I just bought a 88 GT and I can jack the rear up and move the axles about 1/8”-1/4” horizontally on both sides. This seems excessive to me. But, they do not come out so I’m pretty sure the c clips are in there.
@@mikenonameneeded3485 Per Ford: the acceptable maximum axle end play is .030". If the car has miles and has lived a hard life, I'd say it's time for a rear end rebuild based on the end play. -Landan
@@latemodelrestorationthank you! Why am I not surprised….
Thanks for the hard work in this one guys. You actually saved me some headache. I will definitely be letting a shop handle this one!
I think I'm going to start with CZcams videos on brain surgery and work up to something this complicated
Bryan Beswick hahahahhaa not that bad man i did it on the ground
Too many burnouts in my track pack 2010 so i need to replace my bearings n races lol.. they makin noise
Word, LMAO 🤣
😂😂😂
Great video! definitely paying someone to do this. lol
if I had you as an instructor for college I would have stayed in for another semester as others might concur your narration and information is poignant and has inflection that annotated transitions from point to point keep up the good work ,Sir.
This video is made very well. Step by step with no bs.
this isn't even that bad! first time doing gears, and I did it on jack and stands! It's just a commitment
Of course I'm in the middle of putting 4.10s in my Cobra today and you post this video. Although I have a few more steps with the IRS, this is a great visual aid to go with Ford's instructions. Thanks for posting this and shipping everything out so quick!
Glad this video was helpful! I know those 4.10s will wake up your Cobra.
All of these videos show the pinion nut coming right off , good luck with that .
I Used this video twice after that I've been doing them on all my buddy's mustangs greatest thing u guys have done that guy needs a raise lol
Damn... Was considering doing this soon but I think I'll start with the new intake manifold throttle body, heads cam and exhaust first... This is a little complicated for the ammount of experience i have at the moment haha
Gonna do heads and a cam though LMAO
if you have an sn95 of any kind these are the best mod you can do for the price. its only like 400 if you do it all yourself, and it makes an enormous difference to your torque
Wow this was the best video in 10 minutes.. I like to watch how to videos before I take something on and sometimes they're long... this was nice and easy to get an idea of the steps involved in a full rear end refresh/upgrade.... I did the same thing with my AOD... ordered a step by step video . paused every step just to be safe.. and successfully built a nice performance AOD.
Great video. I used to think this was something beyond my capabilities. After watching, I'm sure this something I can do. Thank you for taking the time.
This is probably the best and easiest video I've seen on doing this. I need to find a hydraulic press at a garage sale or craigslist and I am going for it.
Thank you for the kind words, please let us know f you need anything else.
Love the step by step guide. *****
Wish I would have had this a year ago when I did my install a year ago. Lol, had a few hick ups along the way. Luckily nothing needed to be replaced.
morty perez thanks!!
im not capable
My son just had his 93 GT 3.73's installed by an old 4x4 pro (Billy Young) here in Tulsa,Ok. $650.00 parts and labor with an OEM Ford Ring/Pinion. No aftermarket Ford Performance stuff. My son is quite happy getting rid of those lazy 2.73's!!
I was a mechanic for a while and I had broken crosspin bolts. Usually on an open diff. Real PITA to remove.
What about setting pinion depth? There is a big problem with this video where it says to put factory shim on the new pinion. You would be very lucky if that was the correct shim for the new pinion. In my case it was not. It caused me a lot of grief to have to take everything back apart because tooth pattern indicated the pinion depth needed to be increased. You have to press off the pinion bearing again so you can add or change shims. You will destroy the new bearing when you do this because a bearing separator can only catch the outer cage of the bearing to pull it off. The cage of bearing destroyed in the process. I ran out to the local parts store to pickup a new bearing, but I painstakingly find out the bearing did match the Ford Racing bearing race already installed. If you leave in the Ford Racing bearing race, the carrier will hit the pinion because the aftermarket bearing is not seated in the race. It took me several hours to figure out the problem with the bearing. I assembled and disassembled too many times to count. LMR, please add a section on setting pinion depth using the pinion depth tool you sell. Also, please emphasize more that the pinion resistance to turn is inch pounds and not foot pounds. The video does say inch pounds. However, I made the mistake and used foot pounds. I had to take it apart once again to replace crush sleeve. Murphy's Law was in effect and the new crush sleeve from my local Autozone store won't crush. I broke two half inch drives using a 6 foot wrench. The Autozone crush sleeve refuses to crush. At this point the nut is so tight on the pinion, I don't know if I can get it off without damaging the pinion. All this started from watching this video. I did purchase the ring and pinion kit form LMR, it was logical for me to watch their install video. But wow did it set off a chain of events!
Did you get it crushed
Thanks for posting. this is the first video that that i have seen on this topic that has a clear, simple and logical explanation for this procedure.
Gabriel Chavez You are welcome! Thanks for the great feedback. -Landan
4:07, literally looks like the race driver just nicked the middle section of the outer race lol. I've seen this in other videos too for some reason i believe this but apparently someone told me this is not true.
6:35 i think thats bad on the tapered bearings because you're loading the bearings pushing them in with the hydraulic press, i believe if you used a driver set with the tapered side facing up and that 2 jaw piece that on the bottom, not to mention take off the outer race and i think it might be better, IMO!
These are great steps 1-10 instructions, Great work!
I had anxiety just watching it. I’m gonna have to let the pro’s do this one. Excellent video. I don’thave 95% of the necessary tools lol
A shame, i really wanted to do this on my own to save the money. If i cant do it then i cant buy it because i cant afford taking it to a shop
Welp guess I’ll stick with the stock gears for now 😂
Trust me it just seems hard because he explains the steps so fast it wont be the hardest thing in the world if you have a lift
Pussy Haha Jkjk Pay Some One Problem Solved
I ain't got a Mustang, but I'll be doing this to my grand marquis, so this vid is very helpful
A somewhat simple step my step but damn. I think I will regrettably will need to pay a shop to install these gears.
@jp demolet keep cranking on it like he's doing in the video with the giant breaker bars against his shoulder. Do this until the flange sits flush against the yoke, so there's no more play. Then put a torque wrench on the nut and turn the pinion. The resistance is actually what you're measuring (16-20 inch lbs on new bearings).
If more people understood the technicalities and knowledge required for working on vehicles, they'd stop complaining about the high costs of maintenance. They need to realize that they are not just paying for parts, but for the specialty tools and intricate knowledge required for correct installation.
set pinion depth then set backlash...that is the two steps to set up a rear.
He needs to add about 4 to 6 thou pinion and set backlash at 8 and itll center up
Just wanna say, it's really cool of u guy's doing these video's, they help out a lot,please keep'em coming.
Wouldnt mind seeing a 4bolt to 5bolt hub conversion vid one day for 79-93. Great vids! Keep em coming!
Seems pretty easy to me with right tools , but there's a lot of work on it as well as patient...
Great guide. Scared me off doing it though :)
I would love to try it. Obi One conobi, your my only hope!
Buy the whole kit guys and not *just* the 4.10 ring and pinion... I tried to skate by and re-use everything but it didn't work. Now I have to take everything back out and do it all over again. Trust me, spend the extra money for the kit with new seals and bearings.
God damn that's a job
God does not damn anything except those that reject him damn themselves
wrdmndan akdude God damn you. God damn god. Wait, why does your god have a penis, this must mean he has a family with a father and mother of his own since you know he is a he and not an it.
every knee shall bow and every tongue confess that Jesus Christ is Lord
wrdmndan akdude I bet that makes you feel real special when you say that, like it means something. Watch while my knees don't bow and my tongue clearly states that Jesus Christ is nothing and nobody to me and god is just an idea someone made up.
why do you hate God is it because your gay
Great vid...I'm looking to tackle this project soon and feel more confident after watching your informative vid...keep them coming!!!
solocam31 how did it go?
Didn't point out measuring pinion gear depth before removing, then torqued the crush sleeve down.
Need to measure depth or you'll have bad runout and noises and have to take it apart again with a new crush sleeve. The crush sleeve is how you set pinion gear depth, not reusable once set unless marks are good on the ring for depth. Otherwise good video.
everyone says you need a very expensive inch pound dial torque wrench, but you suggest a beam style inch pound torque wench (which is a lot cheaper). is there any good reason to buy an expensive dial torque wrench or is this cheap beam style just as good for this job ?
I love american muscle, im a mustang enthusiasts and you guys keep me supplied, I would like to see more on the 2003 ford mustang gt deluxe coupe 5 speed.
Mine just started whining, bad.....time is my enemy. ...great vid
Heck yeah dude thanks for the info. We all appreciate the time took you guys to do this video
After watching this....I will be heading to a mechanic Lol!
any advise doing this on the floor
Panagiotis F advice: don’t
If you’re going to do it... 2 ft breaker bar, 2 foot 2 inch wide x 3/8 mild steel bar. Drill holes on steel bar to match flange pattern. Fasten bar to flange and put the end against the ground. Take the 2ft breaker bar, put the nut to tension then place breaker bar handle on a scissor jack seat. Keep the breaker bar as perpendicular to the pinion nut as possible unless you desire summer teeth. Use a large gator bit and and impact wrench to extend the scissor jack torquing your pinion nut. This process is VERY incremental. Prepare for repetitions. BUT it forces you to stop when you are getting close and check preload.
The only other tip I have is make sure you can tricep press at least 70lbs with ease.
Short n sweet...take it to a shop and have it done 😂
yeah really. i might use tools like that 2 times in my life. might as well put it towards labor costs from a pro.
What is the part number for the crush sleeve?
While I was reinstalling the crosspin, I saw that the spider gears wear blocking it but I couldn't move them at all
Great job on this gear install video! Keep it up.
Had driveline slop that I could not find.Had checked everything but the ring and pinion/ motorsport traction lock. Had a shop replace the rear axles.Shouldnt they have been able to see if the ring and pinion backlash was off and or tractipn loc? Would it have been obvious? Thx!
Guys it's really easy. Soo much easier than it looks. And a lot of the tools you need to buy you will need someday anyway. Just don't forget to check the runout on the ring gear!!! I got a bad ring gear on my very first try at it. Didn't check runout on final assembly. Had a lot of road noise. After several pattern checks and shim swaps, I finally checked the true-ness of the ring gear. It was bad. FR won't take it back if you drive on it. Period.
Well you have convinced me NOT to do this. Strut/spring cartridges are one thing - this is too much math. So, what would a reasonable mechanic charge labor wise? I'd provide my own parts since I do not want Japanese in my Moose.
Ok... I guess I don’t really mind the howling noise my gears are making anymore. Lol
Id like to see a ball joint replacement vid. Thanks.
We will put this into our video request list.
just ordered my 373 gear kit from you guys for my sn95 cant wait to get them in
roger haines w
I did this once, this time I'm using all new bearings.... We have a hydrolic press at work.... Otherwise I'd use same bearings.
my gear pattern is right across the whole tooth not just small spots its that good
Hello, I don't understand why you use that special torque wrench when you tighten the pinion nut first with an air gun and then with a lever.
Does the pinion nut have a prescribed torque? Can't I do it with a "classic" torque wrench?
The impact in the video is not capable of "crushing" the crush sleeve. That's why we say, "some good old fashion muscle is needed to crush the new crush sleeve". A beam-type torque wrench is used as a "scale" to measure the amount of torque being applied. The rotational resistance specifications are mentioned in the video. -Landan
Really impressed, great video.
Desertratgarage Thank you!!
Great video and this doesn't look too bad. I would do this for sure. I am a crazy guy who has rebuilt my own auto transmission though...
well done. indeed. still intimidated for diy
@latemodelrestoration great video, my GT only has 43,000 kilometeres on the odometer, do i have to replace all bearings? They dont have hard use
Forgot axle retainer clips install AND spider-gear pin and retainer bolt / with the 8mm head.
:/
This seems impossible. To many specialized tools. Without a lift.....I would be so worn out doing all this.
Most of the special tools can be rented fairly cheaply and some tall jack stands can get you pretty far. I wouldn't write it off too quickly. I'm an amateur mechanic without a lift and have overhauled two Dana 35s and a Ford 8.8 under Jeeps without a lift.
WraithCommander42 Id be afraid of messing it up
Northern Illinois Street Racing
It is pretty hard to mess up in a permanent way. If you do mess up, you will know it before you start driving and will have a chance to fix it. Just get a manual with all the steps and specs and take it slowly. As long as you have some basic experience with mechanical stuff you should be fine.
+Northern Illinois Street Racing Seems like it would be easier and cheaper finding someone parting out a car with an complete dif with the ratio you want. Of course from a compatible year model so you can do a direct swap.
Im 17, and I did this in my garage, on someone else's car.
Fantastic video guys. Cheers from Toronto Canada.
Thanks David and we're always here to help!
Ahh man great vid.
Im looking into buying ur 8.8 bullet proof set with 31 spline.
This will help out alot.
Thats my biggest fear. The shimming part.
But I kniw I can do it. Also i wondered about the back slash .
2 reasons why I didnt or havent done it yet.
Great vid guys!
i just found out the hard way the kit come with a bigger pinion bearing i didnt change the inner pinion race
I'm confused about the tooth pattern because this is the wrong one.
Isn't it a bad idea to press the bearing onto the carrier using the race? This transfers all the press force through the races and needles. I have seen hub bearings go out because of not supporting the inner race when the hub is pressed in.
I cant find the instructions on your website , I looked in the Tech , Faq and Download sections and cant seem to find it ...... can your provide a link to the instructions for download ?
***** if i just bought the ring and pinion gears because all the bearing had been replaced like a year and a half a go what sould the resistance be at the pinion flange
When doing the bearing races in the axle the new one won't go in because there is a small nick on the one side is there anyway to correct this
so I pulled out the differential without knowing which side the shims go on which side I noticed one is bigger than the other would I notice incorrect backlash and wear pattern and adjust or how do I fix this mistake?
You may reach out to the Ford Performance tech line to help you out. 1-800-367-3788
Thank God I have family members who have rebuilt more rear ends than I can count cause there's no way I could do this on my own.
***** if you have an aod car like i do. do you have to go to a higher stall converter
Check out our Auto Transmission Parts Page -- www.latemodelrestoration.com/products/79-93-Mustang-Automatic-Transmission-Components
Late Model Restoration should it be the same shims for 355 to 410 ford gears?
didn't show putting the cluips back on the axles just sayin, nice video i might try doing my 4.10's myself if i have a hoist to use
I did it on my backyard, and 2 more after that.Is not easy,but is as simple as...How much do you want it to happen ?
how much horse and torque can a setup like this handle reliably
Old video... But still great! Thanks for the information.
The instructions on your website are completely different than what you have in this video, where did you get the ones in this video because the "correct patterns" are different and I'm not sure which one I should be going by.
Man I failed at this once and a shop I used did it last time (howling failure) as well . Can’t figure this dam 8.8 out , think 🤔 I’m upgrading to a 9inch which I know I can set up👍
How much is the typical labor cost for this?
on my old stang, the part was only like $170 but installation was $1000. I went to the best shop for this though just because I knew the complexity of it. You can probably find it cheaper. I did this 12 years ago.
bee
What's normal cost to change an 8.8 in a 89 Ford Mustang pulley old spool out but new one in and change the ring gear how much does it cost
beezlebub 8.8 89 Ford Mustang what is the cost to change it out change the gears
@@markspringer8945 around 2 to 300 bux
I pulled my axle and took it to a 4x4 shop and he charged $150. Mine was easier because he could work off a table.
Similar process on an Explorer 8.8 solid axle? I’m tired of the 3.55 open diff on my 2000.
In your experience -- can you just simply replace the ring and pinion using the stock shim? In the video I see that you just replace the factory shim on the new pinion.
Thanks!!
Yes you can. In the FRPP installation guide you will find even more indepth look some of these questions. You can download it on Ford Racing Gear Product pages. You can see them here - www.latemodelrestoration.com/products/Mustang-Rear-End-Gears
Thanks. I downloaded the instructions. I am now trying to hunt down a shop to press off my old bearings
Carlos Oneil Congrats on the new Rear End Gears! Give us a call anytime you have a question -- 1-866-507-8871
Just opened my "Ford Racing" gears and found the following part number stamped on the pinion... 1L5LA MOU. Does this mean that I dont have ford gears that will most likely line up like the ones in your video ?
Carlos Oneil I'm not sure if you are asking about new rear end gear box you opened up or old gears in your rear end. Please give us a call and we can help you with this question - 254-296-6500
Cool video...let me start calling shops how much they charge cus for damn sure i dont have any of those tools or even plan on taking on a job like that
I am 62 Do you think I could finish this procedure before I forget how to finish it. demetia forever I can get it apart like anybody else but we all know thats not the hard part When I 19 took apart a muncie transmission I went and bought and with the info from the manual got it back together I think that ability has long since sailed
WELP! !! Time to get her to the shop. I'm man enough to know when I'm outta my league.
ill be tackling this project soon.
Ok not even going to attempt this 🤣🤣 How much does it cost to rebuild rear? I have Richmond gears and have a nasty whine.
Is this what it means to fix the rear end? when it starts making a winning noise
I wish it was half this easy on the IRS equipped Cobras
...so we need a couple hundred dollars worth of specialty tools. I noticed after replacing my tyranny in my 2000 mustang get that only the p/s rear wheels spins. All power to that wheel sucks. Any ideas what the issue is? Some forums said to change the diff fluid and add additive and see if that helps.
If you only have one wheel spinning then more than likely you have a a bad differential. The clutches in it have worn out. You can try to change the fluids but from plenty of previous experience you probably have worn out the clutches in the diff. -- Jeff J
My dear, congratulations on the video! I live in Brazil, I have problem in my Ford Explorer 2004, she gives a jolt, sometimes they constantly put in reverse or "d", the stride is giving this more when I'm moving and shooting off the throttle once , gives the stride, when floor once also gives the stride, like a hit metal, or something working loose, what do you think? May be in the transmission box? Or differential? Underscoring that peaceful machas pass without any stride. I'm grateful for the attention.
I was hoping you would show the install of a modified shim pack. As they can be pretty tricky to get everything to stay in line (shim packs and the diff) as you are installing it in rear end. I remember trying to use grease to try to get the shims to stick together. It didn't work! I ended up flipping my stock shims and it worked out that way. Is there a trick to getting the diff in with the aftermarket shim packs? I think I had like 8 shims on one side and 2 on the other where the stock is easy 1 and 1. Hope that makes sense!
***** should i go with a 4.10 gear it sees the strip every now and then but does some highway
what if you forget to mark the bearing caps
Does a new shift governor and or shift kit need to be installed after a rear end gear change, or is only the speedometer gear need replaced as the only modification to the transmission?
Just how important is the shim between the pinion gear and the bearing?
It's extremely important and must be checked.
Great video! Very professional!!! We need more videos like this.. Thank You.
Ed
i agree
***** did you guys have to install any more shims or were they in specwith the factory shims