How to Polish Black Paint on Cars
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- čas přidán 12. 05. 2024
- There's a saying in the detailing world: "Black isn't a color - it's a full time job." There's a lot of truth to this statement, as black paint on cars is notoriously difficult to maintain. It's not because it's any more sensitive than other paint colors, but rather because it shows scratches and swirls more than lighter color paints. The darkness of the paint contrasts intensely with scratches, making them far more obvious than they would be on say, white paint.
This extreme visibility makes scratches even more difficult to remove. It's hard to get deep black paint back to a mirror shine, and often detailers will find that even when they remove the scratches, the black paint lacks depth and richness. Considering this, you need an experienced paintwork correction professional like me to guide you through the process. Check out this edited video from a recent livestream class I taught and learn how to properly remove all those pesky swirls and scratches for the ultimate black paint finish.
- Mike Phillips
Chief Education Officer, Dr. Beasley's
(760) 515-0444 | mike@drbeasleys.com
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Great demonstration, squeezing polish out of a moisturizing cream tube feels wrong but i see the logic behind it, still weird for me tho.
Great video....and I like that there is a great deal of explaining at each step...sure I know what you're talking about , because I've watched and learned from your videos for years....but someone who is just starting out needs this...again....great job...
Thank you for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Thank you Mike and Yancey 👍
Seems like these detailers do more selling than detailing cars
Randy, you'll have to forgive me. Dr. Beasley's hired me because I am a HUGE fan of their products - have been for years. Because of that, I tend to get a little excited about them when I talk. I'll try to tone it down in the future, but at the end of the day... it's my JOB to get excited about these products! Hope you understand.
Thanks for commenting and thank you for watching Randy. -Mike Phillps
Everything you buy has been sold to you by someone at some point so.....
@@broccolihart1 - Correct. Years ago I found this quote and actually wrote an article about it. Can't find it so I'll recreate it on my personal forum. Here it is,
Nothing happens until someone sells something -Red Motley
You can't take your Jet Ski out for a fun day on the lake until someone sells you the Jet Ski.
Regardless of how a person replies to any content, I love that they are watching our videos!
-Mike Phillips
When did Mikes 3D Garage turn into DrB´s xD
Hi Duusin,
I left 3D back in 2021 after Tunch, the owner sold his company to Morgenthaler Private Equity Group and due to changes out of my control and changes that were not positive for my career I politely and professionally resigned from my position on Tuesday, February 21st.
Remember, in this world the most important thing a man has is his WORD. Don't break it. -Mike Phillips
@@DrBeasleys Big Words from a even bigger man. Appreciate the response! Only the best for you.
@@Duusin - Thanks. I get asked about this from time to time and my pat answer is, "When the world gives you Lemons - make Lemonade.
I'm VERY happy to say Jim the owner of Dr. Beasley's and his team keep their word and are a pleasure to work with. :)
I'm very interested in the Dr Beasley NSP Primer Polishes and I will be buying some very soon ! I heard good feedback from other detailers and from Chris from Dr Beasley
Awesomeness
Oh snap! Mike quoting from the 1960 tv show: Lost In Space Danger Danger Will Robinson👍.
Best TV show ever. Kind of. Well, at least I like the Batmobile. -Mike Phillips
This video is very imformative Thankyou.
I wanted ask was this the speed you moved with the polisher for refining the normal speed you move with the abrasive, meaning arm speed
A slow to medium arm speed is normally what you use for removing defects. It kind of depends on the tool you're using.
With a gear-driven orbital or even a rotary, you can push harder, which engages the abrasives with the paint to remove deeper defects or any defects out of HARD paint aster.
Free spinning tools work, but the entire time you use one it's mostly just the weight of the tool, so a SLOWER arm speed is necessary. -Mike Phillips
@@MikePhillips-Dr.Beasleys Thank you so much for detailed explanation Mike really appreciated.
I'm currently using the Rupes 12e Duetto but I have installed a washer mod on the plate so it engages free Spinning, with out the washer mod I did find it was stalling way to much, plus I group this machine with my custom made 3.5mm backing plate which is custom made for the 12e duetto and its a free spinning one.
@@tripsingh3642 - Sounds like you have a system that works for you. At the end of the day, all that's important is the tool that works best for you and your style of detailing.
-Mike Phillips
@@MikePhillips-Dr.Beasleys Thankyou so much once again Mike.
I have actually followed you well over 20 years since you worked for Meguairs, your wealth of knowledge and passion is special to the community.
I use to polish my hand for well over 25 years especially german vw European paint, but last week I machine corrected my black vw golf, I done a 2 to 3 stage machine correction and was well impressed with the results and finish but I took my time refining as I learnt from your video 20 years ago you call it jewelling this is where the magic came, i was tracking your lake country gold jewelling pad from the video, its no longer available from lake country so used a white Rupes pad with Scholl S40, plus panel wiped and ceramic coated the car for the first time took me 4 days to complete as the car is 22 years old.
Thanks once again for replying back to the Comments have a Great Week 👍
@@tripsingh3642 - Thanks for sharing the tidbit about following me for over 20 years, makes me feel appreciated. -Mike Phillips
Mike: one question. What are your thoughts about wiping off the polish with a microfiber damp with rinseless wash? Thanks Mark G.
Works great for normal polishes. On a primer polish like he’s using probably not the best idea.
Sometimes I use a secondary product to help remove product residue but rarely. With the NSP Primers, simple clean water works fine.
The problem with most rinseless washes and waterless washes on the market, these products contain silicones, glossing agents, carnauba, polymers, ceramics, graphene, etc.
These will interfere with the bonding of the coating so I wouldn't use these with Dr. Beasley's Primers. I do use the Dr. Beasley's PREP WASH, but it does NOT contain anything that will interfere with the bonding of a coating to the paint.
Great question, thanks for asking and thanks for watching. -Mike Phillips
Thank you Mike!
Mike, why do you choose to use the Beast for your cutting stage instead of a 21 or 25mm throw DA? Wouldn't the DA cut faster? 21/25mm > 8mm orbit?
Forced rotation always has more cutting power.
Because he loves swelling the paint giving fake results
@@Shane_DeBruine - Wow! Thanks for watching and adding your opinion. You know, the only thing that's really important is each of us has a way to get the final results that works for us. If you're a *free spinning random orbital polisher fan*, then I'm happy for you and go with it.
Me? I don't have time to waste for pad stalling. I also don't like the BRAIN DRAIN that comes with using any brand of free spinning random orbital polisher because the entire time you're running the tool you must LOOK to see if the pad is rotating/oscillating or stalling and just vibrating against the paint. These hours of looking is called BRAIN DRAIN.
-Mike Phillips
I don't have time for pad stalling. I also prefer not to have BRAIN DRAIN. Here's what everyone does, maybe you do this too?
*Brain Drain*
Everyone marks their backing plate or their buffing pads with a mark to make it easy for their eyes to see pad rotation or pad stalling. This means, the entire time you're going to buff out a car with a free spinning random orbital polisher - you MUST LOOK for the mark on the backing plate or the side of the buffing pad to SEE if the pad is actually rotating or just stalling out and vibrating against the paint.
Everyone can buff out a car using tools that work for them, but for me I don't like to waste time with pad stalling, and I don't like brain drain.
I do use free spinning random orbital polishers and demonstrated this and explained why in this video.
*How to Remove Scratches from Plexiglass Windows & Windshields*
czcams.com/video/y8Fla3nj1tk/video.html
I wrote a how-to book for RUPES and FLEX, and I feel the same way today as I did when I wrote those books - I simply prefer the speed you get with a gear-driven orbital over a free spinning random orbital polisher.
Some people have lots of time to do paint correction and some people don't care how long it takes. Me? My normal practice is to, as I like to say, *"get in and get out"*.
Thanks for watching and thanks for asking the question. -Mike Phillips
@@404notfound..... - Totally agree. Plus, you can go up on edge to knock out thinner panels instead of STOPPING and changing tools and pads. Faster, much faster.
Nothing wrong with free spinning random orbital polishers - the great thing about living in America is you can choose what works best for you.
-Mike Phillips
Will take single stage black over clear coat black any day,, single stage black looks like True Black
Totally agree. Over the last 2- to 30 years, I've had a lot of people finishing a restoration or hotrodding project contact me and ask me my opinion for the DEEPEST looking black paint job and my answer is always, single stage black paint. The clearcoat creates a "plastic" appearance, whereas with single stage, there's nothing over the top of the paint itself.
Thanks for commenting. -Mike Phillips
DIY makes an excellent waterless wash.
It has ceramic in it which is not what you want as a prep step to polishing
Though you could use their rinseless diluted as a waterless and shouldn’t leave much or anything behind
@@sk8ordie4691 - This might work for some people but most detailers I know, both professionals and enthusiasts are to OCD to risk contaminating the paint with some unknown substances AFTER doing the last paint correction step. Wouldn't be a problem for paint correction steps BEFORE the last polishing step.
-Mike Phillips
Mike, You have been teaching detailing since 1987 , but you missed one very important step. Before buffing / polishing you must measure paint thickness. Im very surprised you are using a machine polisher not knowing paint thickness. Big mistake !
First, it's custom paint, I'm using very safe products, the right pad and tool for the job and good technique. The paint came out PERFECT.
I've been detailing since the 1980's and RARELY used a PTG over the decades and never had any problems. I believe in Paint Thickness Gauges for testing when buffing on FACTORY paint - but when buffing on CUSTOM paint - it's a good idea to test but at the end of the day - you're either going to buff the paint or not.
So yeah, use a PTG if you feel the need, but I detailed this car to PERFECTION - off camera and the owner LOVED it and there were ZERO problems.
He was going to sell this at an upcoming Mecum or Barrett-Jackson auction. I'll reach out and see if I can find out if he did sell it and for how much.
Hope that helps you. -Mike Phillips
NEVER NEVER USE A BUFFER ON A CAR..NEVER..
Really? There's no real effective way to remove swirls out of an entire car via hand. I used to teach hand polishing techniques and made the first video ever on how to polish by hand and most people I've met in my life do NOT possess the skills, muscle or tenacity to polish, in other words, REMOVE SWIRLS to an entire car by hand. But if it works for you... go for it. -Mike Phillips
That's what there doing is selling products that do the same as other 1 million products out there..go figure people all bout the money is all this world is anymore
Here's a great quote by Red Motley,
*Nothing happens until someone sells something*
You can't take your Jet Ski out for a fun day on the lake until someone sells you the Jet Ski.
Thanks for sharing your opinion @fastgtp106 -Mike Phillips
@MikePhillips-Dr.Beasleys Good response Mike. There will always be haters.
I just found all you're doing is explaining the product. If you don't then everyone will ask questions and ask you to explain more.
You can never win on the internet. Just do you!
People that have jobs understand that this is part of it....
I guess they expect you to not have a job and do this all in your free time.
@@VictorHernandez-nt3tw - Thanks for taking the time to comment. I posted my first how-to article, *How to polish paint by hand* in 1994. Just my attempt to help others way back then, long before platforms like CZcams, Instagram and Facebook were invented. It's been like this ever since. So thank you for your words of encouragement, they are appreciated. My normal response is to not be kind, but one thing I know, the path is to always take the high road. Let others do as they will. At the end of the day, an honest man's pillow is his peace of mind. :)
-Mike Phillips
Guy full of crap
@fastgtp106 - While I do work for Dr. Beasley's and advocate for their products, I don't pretend for a second that we're the only high-quality brand out there putting out top notch products. This is a big industry with tons of great products and brands that I've used and loved over the years. In fact, I have a saying:
"Find a product you like and use it often."
And I stand by that.
Ultimately, it's up to YOU to find the best product for you. Keep in mind that the techniques and methods I teach apply to ANY high-quality product in the detailing world. Quality abrasives are quality abrasives. There are a few things unique to Dr. Beasley's, sure, but the core of what I'm teaching will work for any professional product you might use. If you can remember that, you may find I have more to teach and less to sell than you thought.
Thanks for sharing your opinion. And we're just happy you're watching us! More and more videos to come! -Mike Phillips
I'm sure you know better. 😅