From the looks of it I have the same exact unit as this one. Thanks for recording and uploading this! I plan on replacing all lower unit seals in a couple of days.
Brandon, nothing is missing on your pull start/flywheel setup. As you stated, the finger (pawl) swings to the OUTSIDE when the pull start is pulled, and catches on the notches on the INSIDE flywheel edge. The "missing" center tooth thing is only for smaller, older 1950's J&E motors.
So my lower unit wont split to allow me to change the water impeller. I have now damaged the case trying to pry it open. There is now a u shaped piece missing out of the top edge of the lower unit. Will this affect operation? Is the impeller housing submerged in water when in use? Water seems to enter via the exhaust outlet and fill the lower case above the impeller housing.
FINNALY, someone who knows what they are talking about. I have tested DOZENS of old OMC engines ...50,s, 60's and 70,s and 85-90 is really good and rare, 60-80....go fishing!
Thanks! Brandon, did you ever find one of those extra deep offset 1/2" wrench? I've looked but don't have a part number. I made one with a distributor wrench, it worked, but it would be nice to have the right tool.
THANK YOU about compression!lol like oil and gas mixture! people will argue for days on whats right! My 9.9 has 90 psi each cylinder which i thought was fine but many people aer telling me NO way!
Well, were talking about a 60's engine here. Experience shows me the pres 1970's engines were much lower, probably because tolerances were ± 2" As time went on, machining got much better. Your engine will run and work on 90 PSI. It might take a few more pulls to start, and not idle the best, but otherwise you'll probably never notice a performance difference. 100psi is the average agreed minimum, so you're close. Run a carbon cleaner through it, should bring it up a bit.
I have 14 -9.9s with a snap on gauge not a harbor freight one they will read 30 percent off compression from 125 a fresh low hour to 95 psi I never seen anything lower I have some old 60s motors with 60psi
I have the same engine but it's a 18hp. It seized up and I've pulled the plugs out and filled the ports with lubricant to free it up. The motor was was laid down with the ports to the sky. The next mor ing the bottom port was empty and the top plug hole was still full. I've gotten the flywheel to move and added more lubricant to the bottom plug hole and when I did it leaked out of a hole on the bottom down by the prop?? Any gues aa yo why its leaking out of the cylinder and out of the bottom?
From the looks of it I have the same exact unit as this one. Thanks for recording and uploading this! I plan on replacing all lower unit seals in a couple of days.
How in the world do you remember how to put back together these components! Lordy I can’t keep up with nothing! Lol. Great video!
nice video! very informative. I just purchased my first two outboard projects. 64 sportwin and 70 lightwin. thanks for the help!
Oh, good motors for a first project. Have fun!
Brandon, nothing is missing on your pull start/flywheel setup. As you stated, the finger (pawl) swings to the OUTSIDE when the pull start is pulled, and catches on the notches on the INSIDE flywheel edge. The "missing" center tooth thing is only for smaller, older 1950's J&E motors.
I also work on a lot of these year motors and that's the compression I usually get maybe a tad higher or lower but they still run
hey can you tell me if a 1962 johnson/evinrude 10.hp is the same as just evinrude piston,rods etc.
to chadlivingfree.is 10 hp 1963 evinrude same pistons rods and wrist pins as a 10 hp 1963 johnson powerheadthank you
So my lower unit wont split to allow me to change the water impeller. I have now damaged the case trying to pry it open. There is now a u shaped piece missing out of the top edge of the lower unit. Will this affect operation? Is the impeller housing submerged in water when in use? Water seems to enter via the exhaust outlet and fill the lower case above the impeller housing.
FINNALY, someone who knows what they are talking about. I have tested DOZENS of old OMC engines ...50,s, 60's and 70,s and 85-90 is really good and rare, 60-80....go fishing!
Thanks! Brandon, did you ever find one of those extra deep offset 1/2" wrench? I've looked but don't have a part number. I made one with a distributor wrench, it worked, but it would be nice to have the right tool.
how do you put the spring and washer and put the cam back on the top, need to set the points. cam keeps slipping up because of the spring?
THANK YOU about compression!lol like oil and gas mixture! people will argue for days on whats right!
My 9.9 has 90 psi each cylinder which i thought was fine but many people aer telling me NO way!
Well, were talking about a 60's engine here.
Experience shows me the pres 1970's engines were much lower, probably because tolerances were ± 2"
As time went on, machining got much better.
Your engine will run and work on 90 PSI. It might take a few more pulls to start, and not idle the best, but otherwise you'll probably never notice a performance difference.
100psi is the average agreed minimum, so you're close.
Run a carbon cleaner through it, should bring it up a bit.
2".........lol
I have 14 -9.9s with a snap on gauge not a harbor freight one they will read 30 percent off compression from 125 a fresh low hour to 95 psi I never seen anything lower I have some old 60s motors with 60psi
How did You remove the cam?
Did you put it back together vid.
I have the same engine but it's a 18hp. It seized up and I've pulled the plugs out and filled the ports with lubricant to free it up. The motor was was laid down with the ports to the sky. The next mor ing the bottom port was empty and the top plug hole was still full. I've gotten the flywheel to move and added more lubricant to the bottom plug hole and when I did it leaked out of a hole on the bottom down by the prop?? Any gues aa yo why its leaking out of the cylinder and out of the bottom?
the piston is probably lower than the exhaust port, and its simply coming out.
Cant get lucky with both I guess
Will it be the same procedure for a 63’ 28?
for the most part
Looks like the cylinder head overheated with the paint loss