How To Replace Axle Seals & Bearings In Ford 7.5 & 8.8 Differential - Ford Mustang
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- čas přidán 23. 05. 2015
- This is a step by step instructional video on how to replace the axle seals & bearings in a Ford 7.5 & 8.8 differential. While I’m working on a ’98 Ford Mustang, this video applies to many Ford models & years since these rear ends have been in use for decades.
I show many tips & tricks as well as the tools needed to make this job quick, easy & painless. The actual labor part of this job takes about 10 minutes per side (not including removing the axles etc). However, the total time (including removing and reinstalling the axles) depends on if you use a regular gasket or RTV for the differential cover gasket and can range from 2 to 24 hours.
If you need instructions on how to remove the axle shafts, see my video titled “How To Replace Spider Gears In For≈d 7.5 & 8.8 Open Differential - Ford Mustang":
• How To Replace Spider ...
How To Change Ford 7.5 & 8.8 Differential Fluid - Ford Mustang:
• How To Change Ford 7.5...
How To Replace Rear Brake Pads & Rotor - Ford Mustang (’94 - ’04):
• How To Replace Rear Br...
My "'98 Ford Mustang 3.8L Repair & Maintenance" Playlist:
• '98 Ford Mustang 3.8L ...
My "General Auto Repair & Maintenance" Playlist:
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The information in this video is for educational purposes only. Pet Rock assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use the information in this video at your own risk. Pet Rock recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Pet Rock. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
This like the best video I've ever seen. Explained everything and gave part numbers. Very informative.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Well made video. I was doubting myself but after watching this I confident again
Thanks a lot. I'm glad my video helped you out. Good luck!
you explained the steps to replace the bearing and seal that a do it yourselfer could follow real well, thanks for the video.
+Silicon Valley Engineer, thanks a lot. I appreciate it. I'm glad my videos help you out.
awesome! I can't thank you enough for the videos you have made on this rear axle. This has taken a job that I really didn't want to tackle and made it a breeze! thanks again!
Thanks a lot. I'm glad my videos helped you out.
great video! perfectly explained did this using your videos over the weekend, had my laptop in the garage the whole time, couldn't have done it with out your videos, was quoted about $800 for both side's at a shop, replaced my rotors and brake pads while i was at it using all your other videos as well, thank you!.
+Rudy Garcia, thats great!!! I'm glad they helped you out. Thanks for letting me know. Its always nice to know how much money you have saved by doing something yourself.
GREAT! I saw how much trouble the seal gave so I skipped that step..... Just stick the puller right through BOTH parts and pull. The seal will come right out with the bearing with No trouble at all !! Thanks to you and Autozone this project went down Smoothly for once
Yes, you can pull the seal & bearing out at once. I showed it the way I did for those that are just looking for how to change the seal and not the bearings. I'm glad my video helped you out. Thanks for watching & commenting. I appreciate it.
I appreciate the video, all the details with parts and part numbers really helped. The step by step was also described better than other videos I watched. Great job my man.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. I'm glad my video helped you out.
I like how you were straight to the point .. not a bunch of babbling ... awesome
Thanks alot. I appreciate it.
I appreciate this video, sir! This has helped me in building confidence to do the project myself.
That great! I'm glad my video is helping you out. Its not rocket surgery. Anyone can do it.
I like this video. This is how you do a tutorial video. Thanks, Pet Rock.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Excellent video. I really appreciate the details like part numbers. Thank you!
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Thanks so much for making all your vids, especially on the rack and pinion replacement, definitely one of my go to channels when I need to figure out how to fix my mustang
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. I'm glad my videos help you out.
Great video. No BS, clear and to the point.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
You saved me so much money and frustration. Thank you so much!
+Runda McBepus, no problem. I'm glad my videos helped.
This should be part of educational videos for ford techs, thx a lot !
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Wish I would have seen this video before I had to do the seal twice because I put the seal in backwards the first time but It did work out in the end.
What matters is you got the job done. Thanks for watching & commenting. I appreciate it.
Same comment as the group below, very well explained and demonstrated. This is my project for this weekend I just need to arrange to borrow the tools for the job. Thank you very much!
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. Good luck. Re tools: you can rent them from most auto parts stores. I rented the ones in the video from Autozone. Hope that helps.
Hi Pet Rock's Garage, so I’m in Canada I went to NAPA with no luck but Canadian tire loans out the tools at no charge, just a deposit that is paid back in their return. I already had the axel out for my drum to disc brake upgrade in my 1986 Mustang. The bearing removal and install took about 20 minutes with the right tools. Thanks again for your detailed step by step this was a lot easier than I’d thought it would be. To think I was going to leave the old leaking seal and worn bearings in place and not use the new ones provided in the brake upgrade kit . For some reason the past car owner packed the one seal with thick grease to prevent gear oil from leaking out - ouch so glad I did this now and lol that was easy. Thanks again.
Cheers,
Hans
@@hansparis5860, I didn't know Canadian auto parts stores didn't loan out tools like in the US. Canadian Tire's loaner program sounds a lot like the ones here. Glad to hear you got it sorted out.
Getting ready to do this on a 1998 mustang.Thanks for the video
Good luck!
I need to do this on my 98 grand marquis, hopefully they're similar. Your videos are very detailed and helpful. Thank you!
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. If it has a Ford 7.5" or 8.8" open differential it is the same. If it has something else then some of it will be similar. Good luck.
@@petrocksgarage I believe it's an 8.8. I'm having difficulty finding good quality axle bearings. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
@@marymong2651, there aren't that many bearing manufacturers and, if I'm not mistaken, none are made in the US. Check out rockauto.com and autozone/oriellys/advanced/napa. They should have a good selection.
Again thanks a lot for the video! Just a quick tip cause I had very hard time to remove the seal on both side as it was stuck there. I used the slide hammer with the bearing puller and remove the bearing and the seal at the same time and it works perfect 👌! Just a tip to prevent damage on the axle tube by trying to pry out the seal ;)!
Yeah, you can remove the seal & bearing at the same time with a slide hammer. It's a perfectly valid technique. However, it only works if you are replacing the bearing too. If you just want to replace the seal, which is more common than the bearing, this video will show you how. Thanks for watching & commenting. I appreciate it.
Helped for my crown vic!
Thats great! I'm glad my video helped you out.
Really well done
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
finally found a video on this!!!!!
I'm glad my video helped you out.
Great video
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Awesome video thanks, one suggestion I would add is for really bad seals take a chisel and hammer and knock the lip down from the outside of the housing so that you can break the rust seal that's formed with the rear end and the bearing seal
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. Thats a good tip. Thanks.
Nice job!
+SuperSammy1977, thanks I appreciate it.
Great video. Very well explained easy to follow. Thank You.
+Ricardo Massa, thanks. I appreciate it.
Well done 👍
Steve Rob, thanks lot.
great video ........................
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Awesome
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Didn’t want to use the bearing puller to remove the seal and the bearing all at once? Works like a charm..
Yes, that is an option. But in my experience the bearing often just pulls through the seal on some vehicles and makes the seal harder to remove afterwards. So I typically just pull the seal separately. Also, the video shows how to remove the seal if that is all you are replacing.
I wasn't able to seat my bearing as far as yours at 6:50. I can see the lip but not as much, and one side I just barely see it. There's like a ramp in the back. Do you think I should pull the seals and hit it some more, or just chalk it up to different tolerances?
The important part is that the bearing is in straight. Make sure that the amount of the lip you can see is the same all the way around. If its not then the bearing is not in straight. If it is the same all the way around you should be ok. The seal shouldn't come in contact with the bearing, so it should be ok too. Good luck.
Looks straight forward enough. Thanks for the very clear directions. I've also heard people say put some black RTV around the axle seal. I have to do this as my right wheel bearing is making noise + my pinion seal is leaking as well, my car is lowered a bit so it's real hard to get to the top fill plug of the diff. Furthermore, my driveway is on an angle so I can't properly fill it. Between needing a lot of torque on the pinion nut to crush the pinion sleeve + the fill plug hard to get to + needing the diff level when I fill it I want to remove the rear axle and do this job + the pinion seal outside of the car. What are your thoughts on doing it? On one hand it seems like massive overkill, but on the other it sorta sounds like a massive pain in the ass doing it on the car on my back in cramped space. Thoughts?
Thanks a lot.
Re RTV: if the bore that the axle seal goes into is damaged then you would want to use RTV. Otherwise, you don't need to.
Re getting to the fill plug: if you put all four corners of the car up on jack stands at roughly the same height, it should make it easier to get to. Or use a really long hose attached to a pump like I used in the video. Having your driveway at an angle actually makes it easier. Have the rear facing down hill and jack it up until the car is level. Make sure to block the front wheels so the car doesn't roll.
Re pulling the axle to service it: that might be more headache then its worth. If the driveway really is a problem I'd find a level spot somewhere nearby to do the job. My driveway is also at an angle. I've sometimes rolled it back so the rear wheels are in the street and the front are on the driveway to get it close to level so I can check the oil. Works pretty well. Maybe that technique would work for you too. Good luck.
@@petrocksgarage The really long hose probably would have helped, I'll get one of those. I had just used a shorter hose + squeezing a regular gear oil container to top it off and it was a huge pain in the ass because it was slow as shit & hard to squeeze. The long hose + pump looks like a significantly better option. Yeah, that's a good point about parking it up-hill and doing it that way. I had wanted to do it downhill because it puts the rear near my tools, but I think your way is better because it allows me to balance while creating room for myself. I did the math and should only need to come up about 10 inches max to be level. OK, I'll have the RTV on hand if it's damaged and I need it, otherwise I won't use it.
OK, you've convinced me on trying to do it with the axle still in the car! It should make the job considerably easier. If I run into issues I can always drop it after. I was most concerned about the pinion seal and crush sleeve, but I did some searching and looks like a pretty quick/easy weld to make a make-shift pinion holder tool that can rest against the ground or car body while I crank the pinion nut enough to crush the sleeve, so that should make it much more manageable from under the car.
Thanks!
Some advice for others looking to do this. You can just leave the seal in place and it will come out when you pull the bearing. No need to remove it first.
While it doesn't hurt to try, in my experience it only works sometimes. More often than not the bearing will pull right out the middle of the seal. Especially if the outer flange of the seal is rusted to the axle tube. IMS, the bearing is a slightly smaller diameter than the stiff/metal part of the seal. Either way, I showed it the way I did for those who are just replacing the seal.
I'm working on a 98 mustang and the previous owner hit a curb so hard he broke the axle and knocked the wheel off. It didn't even have a seal on it and the bearing was cracked. The opening for the axle housing was bent and out of round but II was somewhat able to hammer it back in place. So there are a couple rough edges that could be filed and maybe a little more hammering. I can show a picture. Do you think this is a fixable situation or do I need a new axle?
IMO, I would replace the entire differential. If he broke the axle (which is a solid piece of steal) then he hit it pretty hard and all that force went into the gears & bearings in the differential housing, likely bending/damaging something. But if $$$ is an issue, then you could try to rebuild it. I'd advise using some RTV around the outer edge of the axle seal to fill in any imperfections you couldn't hammer out. I would also take the diff cover off and have a look inside to make sure that there are no other broken or damaged parts in there. Make sure it spins freely with no noise or anything like that. Good luck.
So I’m currently replacing my axle on my 03 mustang GT and we took off the seal and can’t find the same seal anywhere... what is the product name of that individual seal part
Have you checked rockauto.com? They have a bunch of options for your year/model. It's called an Axle Shaft Seal or Axle Seal
Great video. I just recently did this same job on my 03 mustang and 3 weeks later started hearing loud noise and took it apart again and my axle shaft had worn down do u know what would cause this?
Thanks. Re your axle shaft, it all depends on where the wear occurred on the shaft. Did it occur in the same spot on both shafts?
@@petrocksgarage what happened was my wheel seal on passenger side started leaking so I replaced a wheel seal and bearing just like in your videoand everything was good for about three weeks and then I noticed a noise like a bearing going out or a tire off so I pulled the axle out of the differential and where the bearing and seals it was worn down and lose inside the bearing but I don't notice any damage to the bearing or seal
@@zachensley9386, my guess is either there wasn't enough oil in the diff and the bearing was riding raw on the axle shaft and wore it down. Or the bearing was potentially the wrong size somehow (e.g. manufacturing defect or wrong bearing) and it allowed the axle to wobble around and wear. Hope that helps.
@@petrocksgarage Thanks for ur help. Today I will be adding the oil into differential hopefully everything is good. For the v6 i use 80 90 right? Can I send u a pic of my axle?
@@zachensley9386, the motor doesn't effect the oil used in the differential. I use 75W-90, but any gear oil around those specs should be fine. Also, if you have a limited slip differential you should add 8oz of friction modifier first and then fill the rest of the way with gear oil. If you don't know if you have a LSD or not, the easiest way to tell is to jack up the car and spin one of the rear tires. If the other wheel spins in the opposite direction, you have an open differential. If it spins in the same direction, you have a limited slip differential, or LSD.
Have any tips on getting the abs sensor out without breaking it? I noticed you took it out but did not mention it. thanx
01mustangman1, I show a more in depth method in my video on replacing the spider gears in this car. czcams.com/video/WnZc7Dbn-Vk/video.html. In short, a good amount of penetrating oil on both sides, let the penetrating oil do its thing for a little while, slowly twist it back & forth a bunch of times to break it free first and then pull it out. Good luck...
Pet Rock's Garage I got it. I used a lot of PB and i used a trim tool remover to pry against the abs gear. My axle seal was out though so it was all soaked in gear oil already. It'll probably be a lot harder for others.
01mustangman1, glad to hear you got out out.
good video. on the seal some instead of oil put a tiny bit of rtv as added protection I guess... what do you think? thanks.
+BlackStangPat, thanks… RTV isn’t necessary if the seal is a tight/snug fit, like it should be. The RTV applied to the outer edge of the seal would be wiped off as you drive the seal into place. But if you want to add RTV, it wouldn’t hurt.
+Pet Rock's Garage thanks!! again good video.
+BlackStangPat, no problem.
What do you do when you can't get the seal out and the bearing comes apart with the slide hammer and the bearing shell is stuck in the axle well?
Well, first I'd get the seal out. Maybe use a small pry bar, screw driver, seal puller or whatever method. As for the bearing outer race (the shell), it sounds like you used too small a puller. The puller should be in contact with the outer race. If that fails, then its really hard to say what to do from my keyboard. With whatever method you use, make sure not to scape up the inside of the diff tube in the process. Good luck...
Can you use the same axle bearings/seals for the 7.5 and 8.8 rear end?
+Nathan Yost, from a quick search on rockauto.com it appears that the 7.7 & 8.8 take the same axle bearing/seals.
Awesome! thanks
no problem...
Should have started with the prybar never fails :)
6 == 1/2 dozen. I've had pry bars and screw drivers tear the seal housing instead of pulling it out making it even harder to get out. In the end use whatever works for you. All that matters is that it came out, not how you got it out.
I have a 2007 crown Victoria and I need to change my rear wheel bearing and I dont know what should I buy a 7.3 or a 8.8 size bearing
The best way is by looking at the metal tag on one of the diff bolts. It should have this info. If that tag isn't available, you call your local ford dealers parts department and they should be able to tell you from the VIN. A less reliable method is to look at the differential cover. Does it look like the one in the video (same bolt pattern)? If so, its likely a 7.5 diff. If not, its likely an 8.8 diff. Hope that helps.
@@petrocksgarage Thank you, that did help also your video was very educational but it's still not an easy job 👍
@@mrmaxwell4025, thanks. Glad to help. While not as easy as changing engine oil, it is still in the high beginner to low intermediate level. If you take your time you should be fine. Good luck.
So, are the axles held in with c-clips? I've never had the pan off on these new axles
Yes, but to remove the c-clips you need to remove the center pin so the axles can slide inward far enough so the c-clips clear the vertical spider gears.
@@petrocksgarage Yeah, old school stuff... One more question, can you get the bearing out with the seal still in place? Seems the slide hammer would do it..
@@kevincowart542, yeah, if you can get the puller attachment in there it should pull the bearing & seal at the same time, but will take more force of course. I would only be worried about the bearing coming out through the center of the seal, instead of pulling both the seal & bearing out though. I haven't tried it, so your milage may vary.
Could you not just use the bearing puller and slide hammer to pull out both the axle bearing and axle seal at the same time?
If you can get the puller tool in there, yeah, it might work. It will be harder though and you risk breaking the puller tool because you need to tighten the puller onto the thing you are pulling out (e.g. the bearing). With the seal in the way you can't cinch the puller tool down properly, so every time you pull on it with the slide hammer you will be be slamming the tool against the back side of the bearing, which is not how the tool was designed and it could break.
I have 2001 grand marquis..I am doing a repair bearing job on the rear end,the repair bearing axle saver as they say..has a main seal on the outside but it also has a seal of some sort on the inside,besides pre lubricating it all before putting it into the housing..I am wondering how the rear end gear oil can ever get past this inside seal to replace any of the pre lubricant that I put in.Does the axle have a little lee way to let oil past that inside seal that is of course part of the repair bearing,its only a rubber seal of some sort,i can get you the part number and or upload a picture here,please try to msg me back direct so i know you did answer..thanks
I'm not aware of that kind of sealing set up on a Ford 7.5 or 8.8 differential, but that doesn't mean they don't exist. From your description, I have the same concern about the diff oil getting to the bearing if there is a seal in the way. Maybe send me a part number for the bearing & inner seal and I can look it up to see what you are talking about.
thanks Pet Rocks, the repair bearing is AUTO XTRA 127-R1593.if u wanna look it up and study it..its just odd that theres seals on both ends,it must be made that way to work and i guess they figure its only a repair job and not meant to last long.thanks for the reply,i will be doing this job soon...happy new yr from Halifax Nova scotia.
I couldn't find that exact bearing, but I did find Centric C-TEK Standard Bearing (part # 41464000E) on rockauto.com and it looks like it has a seal on at least one side. If it's only one side then the side with the seal should probably face outward so the fluid in the diff can get to the bearing. Good luck.
Too bad I saw your video after I changed my seal. I drove the seal all the way in and made sure it seated against the bearing. What will happen? Will it leak?
It is hard to say. It depends on a bunch of different things, including the quality of the seal. How snug against the bearing is it? Is it being compressed? In the end, for peace of mind I would replace the seal. Seals & oil are cheap. Hope that helps.
What to do if there is some gouge marks
It depends on what the gouge marks are in, and where they are.
You could pull the seal with the bearing
Yes, that is an option. I typically remove them separately because I've had bearings pull out through the seal, making the seal a P.I.T.A. to remove. Both methods are perfectly valid. Use whichever works best for you.
Do you have to remove the axel to replace the wheel bearing ?
Yes, because the axle goes through the wheel bearing.
Awesome thanks !
no problem.
Aren't they supposed to be driven a bit below the rim of the axle?
A little bit inside the rim of the axle is ok, but not too far. Flush is best.a
What if you buy a whole new hub with the bearing already in it
The 7.5 & 8.8 differentials don't have hubs. They have axles.
PLEASE DO A VIDEO ON PINION BEARING THANKS 🙏
I'll see what I can do.
How much you charge for something like this?
Prices vary from shop to shop, let alone region to region. Call around to your local shops and ask what they would charge. Good luck.
why cant other ppl be as descriptive and thorough as this...………..??
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
hi why do they leak?
+forest gump, think about it. Its a metal shaft spinning very fast inside a rubber seal. Eventually the seal will wear out. The seal will leak quicker if it is damaged during installation too.
5:00
Yes?
I noticed too. Lol
Lol
Great video! I wonder who the morons are that said it wasn't a good video?
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
re morons: I didn't know anyone was saying that about my video. Or are you referring to the down-votes on the video? I chalk that up to the old saying: You can please some of the people all of the time, you can please all of the people some of the time, but you can’t please all of the people all of the time.
why can't U pull the seal with the bearing?
You can try and it may work. It's been my experience that the bearing will just pull out through the seal because the bearing is a smaller diameter than the metal part of the seal. If that happens it makes removing the seal significantly harder. Either way, I show this method to include those that are just changing the seal. Good luck.
Just exploded my new bearing into the axle housing. No parts stores had that tool kit. FFFFFFFFUUUUUU
That sucks. I just rented the seal/bearing driver this past weekend from my local AutoZone. Don't know where you live, but they are plentiful in parts stores around here and on their respective web sites. Good luck...
So I took my car into the shop today and got the 3.32 gears replaced with 4.10's They gave the car back and said I had a bad rear axle bearing. I get in the car, tune the computer for the new gears. And drive off. I got up to 40mph just fine and then let off the gas and this jake brake sound comes from the rear of the car. At first I thought the differential was going to explode. So now looking at this video they are going to have to break down the entire thing again just to replace wheel bearings that were perfectly fine when I dropped my car off.FML
Ouch. Good luck...
Why does it have to be a nice paper towel? 5:21
Would you rather it be angry? 😆
I don’t think you pounded the seal in all the way. The inner lip your seating against is deeper. If you look at the seal before you moved it it looks deeper, maybe an 1/8 of an inch. It only matters because the axle is usually not as smooth outside The old seal ring, and the new seal ring is further out trying to seal against rust. I did the Same he thing on my first one.
No, its in as far as it needs to go. The old seal had a lip on it to prevent it from going in beyond flush with the axle tube (@3:26), I installed the new seal the same way, flush with the axle tube. While there is a little bit of wiggle room in how far you drive it in, you can go too deep. If you drive it in too far it will come in contact with the rollers in the bearing and can chew up the seal housing pretty quickly.
@@petrocksgarage Thats cool, the 8.8 must be different. images.app.goo.gl/TBaKLAm3QobeFNXw8
@@bmfbbmfb, they may be slightly different. Definitely different diameter axle tubes. The pic you reference is of a new aftermarket seal though, not the OEM seal which has a lip. And there is another picture in that grouping that has the aftermarket seal flush with the tube. But you are correct in that you don't want the seal riding on rust. If that is a concern I'd advise taking some emery cloth and cleaning up the sealing surface before install. I wish I had put that in the video.
5:01 anyone else's mind go in the gutter?
;-)
5:20 also want to clean it out with a nice paper towel!
6/20/2020
Next time, clean the parts around the seal, before you remove the seal and bearing. Also, instead of pre-lubing, why not just lube the seal and bearing?
Not sure why it matters to clean around the seal before removing it as long as you clean it before installing the new seal.
as for pre-lube: pre-lubing the seal & bearing is lubing the seal & bearing. I don't understand the question.
That bearing he's pulling out looks like a repair bearing, hence why he couldn't pull out the oil seal as it's all one piece with the bearing.
I'm not sure what video you are commenting on. The bearing & seal I pull out are clearly two separate parts in the video. By pulling them individually the video is useful for those who just want to replace the seal and not the bearing. Either way, I don't like pulling the bearing & seal as a unit because more often then not the bearing pulls right through the seal making it harder to remove the seal afterwards. But if you want to pull them together, go for it. There is nothing really wrong with it. I just prefer to pull them separately.
@@petrocksgarage I know, i commented before i watched the whole thing, lol lesson learned, sorry buddy.
allahu akbar my friend, have great day.
@@TheGuitarist36, no problem. I've prematurely commented before too. No big deal.
Lol Those Axle Seals are sometimes glued in the Housing take small Chisel hit the edge of the Seal and be Careful of the Axle Housing Collapse the Seal on one Side than use BFG Pry bar pry the Seal out and don't Gouge the inner Housing if you do clean Very well with Brake Clean after installing Bearing use little RTV Silicone Glue on Outer edge of Axle Seal and White or Axle Bearing Grease on Inner lip of Seal Apply Grease on the Bearing Rollers the rest you should Know. Use High Quality 75w-140 Synthetic Diff Fluid. I'm Master Mechanic I was Browsing on the Tube see how other guy's do it never know people come up with Different ways Good or WTF?
Thanks for the tips. There is definitely more than one way to skin a cat.
Next time just use bearing puller to remove bearing and seal at same time
Yes, that is an option if you are replacing both the bearing & seal. However, I chose to show how to replace the seals individually for those that may be just replacing seals.