The best advice I’ve ever gotten was don’t learn how to fix something. Learn how it works and you’ll always know how to fix it. Thank you for sharing this.
Once again you have increased my knowledge and cannot say thank you enough. My bikes have made leaps and bounds from getting out In the garage and having the confidence and now new found knowledge of trying think outside the box for myself.
Dude I love it. You get met really exited to rebuild or build an engine/bike. You have a very nice shop there. I wish we had more of This culture in the netherlands
Just a quick one (I'm not very knowledgeable on drag bike motors), but why would you want to remove the oil cooler? On the Superbikes we are building for the track we are actually decreasing the size of the radiators in order to fit bigger oil coolers, as it has a greater cooling effect and is more beneficial to cool the oil than the coolant. It just seems an odd thing to do to me but I'm sure you will have your reasons for doing it, I'm just intrigued. Thanks for the vids, just had a flick trough your channel and the knowledge you provide is priceless. I bet youve unknowingly saved a few engines by making these vids! 😎😎😎
Honestly for what we do, they dont run long enuf to need an oil cooler. Especially on methanol. I have to fire mine up to build heat. Most of the guys even have oil heaters. What we do doesn't require much for endurance type mods
Would you recommend drilling out the oil restrictor on a street bike? Im rebuilding a K7 750 and I'm trying to do all of the little mods like oip passages, 2 K7 750 Intake Cams (I think that's the way to go, right?), detailing the head with mild porting, port thottle bodies, remove STP's, balance shaft delete, etc... Thoughts on chamfering the oil passages between the cases? Oh last thing.. on the bottom case where the oil oassages and stuff is. Mine is pitted... the metal. Its weird. Motor has been rather flawless internally so far. Is that normal? I want to shave it down. Its prickly & sharp. I feel like a tiny piece could get knocked off. Sorry for all the questions - Thanks from OKC
Thank you! I spent almost 20 years in heavy equipment/ welding/ fab. Made a career change 9 months ago and now program and run a 4 axis horizontal machining center
You can do better, if you look inside the oil pickup there is a lip, sand it down and enlarge it , port match oil pump to cases, Drill oil gallery and use oil restrictor to the head and use main girdle support for main studs and run high oil pressure valve and gear and you will never have to worry about low oil pressure any more, top up with 4 1/4 - 4 1/2 Quart oil
I run an aftermarket pan and pick up, pump gear and a slightly different relief valve, studs and stud girdle and the pan is baffled with trap doors. I dont restrict oil to the head. The extra oil helps pull heat out of the valve springs.
@@tpsfab the reason to restrict it will be to the increased volume and pressure from high pressure valve and gear. This lip is in the casing, you want to have it as smooth as possible when oil travel to the pump
Its just to get rid of extra failure points. That shaft has nothing to do with the actual balance of the rotating assembly. I have many cranks spun on a balancer to check before assembly. Its totally a creature comfort type of part that just takes the "buzz" away...something you would feel in your hands after a long ride. Its just another part that requires oil that could be used elsewhere. Im glad you enjoy this stuff!
The best advice I’ve ever gotten was don’t learn how to fix something. Learn how it works and you’ll always know how to fix it. Thank you for sharing this.
You are the man for putting this video out!!!!
I appreciate it!
Once again you have increased my knowledge and cannot say thank you enough. My bikes have made leaps and bounds from getting out In the garage and having the confidence and now new found knowledge of trying think outside the box for myself.
This is the stuff that gets me goin! I LOVE hearing that!
Dude I love it. You get met really exited to rebuild or build an engine/bike. You have a very nice shop there. I wish we had more of This culture in the netherlands
Hey bro great work you make everything much simpler
Intro music is 🔥🔥
Man this is some great info. Thanks for the video
You are awesome man!
excellent analysis 👍
Hey man , great videos and great information. I like what you do good luck for this season 👍
Excellent video
Just a quick one (I'm not very knowledgeable on drag bike motors), but why would you want to remove the oil cooler? On the Superbikes we are building for the track we are actually decreasing the size of the radiators in order to fit bigger oil coolers, as it has a greater cooling effect and is more beneficial to cool the oil than the coolant. It just seems an odd thing to do to me but I'm sure you will have your reasons for doing it, I'm just intrigued. Thanks for the vids, just had a flick trough your channel and the knowledge you provide is priceless. I bet youve unknowingly saved a few engines by making these vids! 😎😎😎
Honestly for what we do, they dont run long enuf to need an oil cooler. Especially on methanol. I have to fire mine up to build heat. Most of the guys even have oil heaters. What we do doesn't require much for endurance type mods
Yep, I tell everybody about that restrictor.
It's easy on the busa. Just got Lil sets crew type plug behind the oil filter.
Would you recommend drilling out the oil restrictor on a street bike? Im rebuilding a K7 750 and I'm trying to do all of the little mods like oip passages, 2 K7 750 Intake Cams (I think that's the way to go, right?), detailing the head with mild porting, port thottle bodies, remove STP's, balance shaft delete, etc... Thoughts on chamfering the oil passages between the cases?
Oh last thing.. on the bottom case where the oil oassages and stuff is. Mine is pitted... the metal. Its weird. Motor has been rather flawless internally so far. Is that normal? I want to shave it down. Its prickly & sharp. I feel like a tiny piece could get knocked off. Sorry for all the questions - Thanks from OKC
Can someone say "Nerd Alert"? lol jk Good video Chris!
I al put a small alen set screw in center of case to retric oil to piston squiters and that way just remove them.
What about cylinder head oil flow restriction?
Love the content!
Just curious, what you do full time for a living?
Thank you! I spent almost 20 years in heavy equipment/ welding/ fab. Made a career change 9 months ago and now program and run a 4 axis horizontal machining center
@@tpsfab awesome! Do you do some matching axis work on the side?
Great video and tips! Do you prefer using a high volume oil pump gear? Howbout a baffle plate with the oil pan?
I knew id forget something....i do run a HV gear and a billet pan with 2 trap doors in it from Two Wheel Werks
@@tpsfab nice🤘🏻
Would the removing the secondary balancer mod that you did by removing it and plugging the hole be the same for my K7 1000?
Yes sir!
What is the blue mat on your bench for cushion and cleanliness? How long does it survive typically?
Its basically like a plastic type of cardboard. It just nice cause its some cushion and wipes off easy....and no wood splinters!
I'm curious why you did not block off the restricted area. Why not continue to use the oil cooler?
The oil cooler is better suited for street and looooong rides/races. For what most of the drag guys do...it ends up in the way of headers or turbos
Thank you.
You can do better, if you look inside the oil pickup there is a lip, sand it down and enlarge it , port match oil pump to cases,
Drill oil gallery and use oil restrictor to the head and use main girdle support for main studs and run high oil pressure valve and gear and you will never have to worry about low oil pressure any more, top up with 4 1/4 - 4 1/2 Quart oil
I run an aftermarket pan and pick up, pump gear and a slightly different relief valve, studs and stud girdle and the pan is baffled with trap doors. I dont restrict oil to the head. The extra oil helps pull heat out of the valve springs.
@@tpsfab the reason to restrict it will be to the increased volume and pressure from high pressure valve and gear.
This lip is in the casing, you want to have it as smooth as possible when oil travel to the pump
Is this the same as the Hayabusa?
Most all applies to motors in general. Its just about flow and control
Also, you mentioned deleting the harmonic shaft. Is this a drag racing concept?
I enjoy your channel and its content. Please keep sharing.
Its just to get rid of extra failure points. That shaft has nothing to do with the actual balance of the rotating assembly. I have many cranks spun on a balancer to check before assembly. Its totally a creature comfort type of part that just takes the "buzz" away...something you would feel in your hands after a long ride. Its just another part that requires oil that could be used elsewhere. Im glad you enjoy this stuff!
Thank you
have been doing these mods and much more for years
Same here, only about 27 tho so there's always more to find
Since you drill out the bypass, could you plug that area? What would that add or hurt?
Do you have a number thati can call you , appreciate you great knowledge