DIY ADU #9 - Rough-in Inspection
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- čas přidán 2. 11. 2021
- Are you looking to build and ADU or JADU as an owner builder? This series should help you through each step, from design and preparation all of your construction documents, (yes, you can prepare your own documents!), to demo and grading, foundation, plumbing, electrical, framing, roofing, drywall, paint, tile, flooring, cabinets, finishes.
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very detailed and helpful, thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Great video - very thorough. When doing my static test for the DWV I had 1 small leak and it was at the clean out… added some teflon tape and that fixed the problem.
Glad to hear. Those cleanouts can be a bear to seal when they are under pressure
Really great video, going to watch the rest of the series. I was wondering how you vented the dryer? Looks like it's going out through the roof? I might have to do that and was wondering if it's acceptable to just go straight up?
Absolutely, roof or wall is fine. Try to keep the vent line as short as possible and with minimal elbows. Maximum length allowed is 35’ from dryer to wall or roof termination. However each 45 degree bend counts as 2-1/2’ and each 90 degree bend counts as 5’. An example would be 20’ of straight duct with (4) 90’s would be considered 40’, which is too long. Also, make sure you have a closing flap (but no screen) on your vent hood. This type of hood prevents critters from entering the duct but allows lint to blow out when the dryer is running. A screen will clog with lint and should only be used on bathroom or range hood exhaust lines.
Looks great! I wish you could do my 2 car detached garage, I would love an ADU in the back yard!
Ideally if you can keep your garage and add the ADU, that would be my preference. But you can’t beat the ROI on adding an ADU. It should pay for its self in 5 to 7 years.
@@URBNBLDRS Yes that would be great but a ADU plus the garage would pretty much take up the whole yard, plus I heard a dethatched garage conversion would be a lot cheaper (depending if the garage could support the extra weight).
Does the hot water line insulation go through the studs/blocks? Or just the pex? Seems like it would be a big hole to get the insulation through.
The drill hole should be just big enough for the PEX. The insulation is then cut to fit between the studs or joist. It looks continuous but it’s not.
Its not a ground its a bond. Gas lines must be bonded to water line outside then grounded there as well.
Thank you man.
Would you add MST’s only when connecting new framing to existing framing? Or LTP4’s?
I’m not an engineer, but typically if you aren’t being inspected and don’t have a engineered design you should always overbuild. Take a look at this video…might help. czcams.com/video/WwU8tGMCTfw/video.html
that is awesome! is this the 2nd city inspection? 1st inspection is the foundation. Thanks in advance.
Typically this is your second inspection. First inspection is your underground sewer. Some cities require a preconstruction inspection, where they look at your overhead electrical lines, and your site survey along with setbacks.
I have a question. when you call to make appointments for inspections, can you schedule one for just the rough in plumbing? I ask because my situation is different than building from the ground up. I’m finally getting started with my Garage Conversion and trying ti plan accordingly. Thanks
Typically the plan checker will layout the inspections in a certain order, which will follow your work sequence. But to answer your question, Yes you call a separate underground inspection for your sewer and vents. All other rough plumbing will fall under the frame and rough inspection which will allow you to insulate. Hope that helps
@@URBNBLDRS Sounds good. I appreciate the quick response.
I'm super curious, why did you wrap all your linesets in tape? What tape did you use?
The tape is just to keep the electrical wire and insulation all tight in one line.
@@URBNBLDRS ah hah! okay, I was hunting through code books to see if there was a good reason for the tape use! and convenience is never mentioned. nice work and stellar video, you're saving me so much effort with this thorough review.
You need a exterior disconnect for the electrical because your panel is in the house. Looks good but that laundry p trap looks ???
The only exterior disconnect we installed is for the A/C condensor. The entire ADU can be turned off at the breaker in the main electrical panel of the house. Not sure what you mean by the laundry p-trap.
@@URBNBLDRS if your jurisdiction there would need to be an electrical main disconnect on the exterior of the building. Laundry P-trap looks to be 1.5" many jurisdictions want a 2"
I want to use copper pipe to my hot and cold water.
Copper is always a good option. Count the cost vs pex and you may reconsider. Cost of copper has gone up considerably.
Fail that inspection!
Nope. To fail is rare.