Nothing works better than a chain and a 20-ton jack. Feed each end of the chain through 2 of the holes of the rim to make 2 loops, then put a bolt through the 2 loops to hold them together like a basket. Then, put a 20 ton Jack between the basket and the hub and start jacking like a puller. It works every time with a whole lot less effort. It's a little tedius to put it all together, but believe you me, it works.
I think it's best to lube the helix with a good moly grease on the tool well, prior to using,, looks like it was dry right out of the box. I would have moved the tool several times to different holes before hitting it at all. Just a suggestion.
Well...a functional impact would be a good start 😂 If you move the tool from side to side you'll find they are much more effective and easier on the tool itself as well. You did however give me the information I was after so thank you for the video
I watched the video on this tool. I can't believe you guys run a shop. Have you heard of lubing threads on pullers for every use, and the 180 method should have been used alot more. Very amateur skills here.
I hate to say it but I think he's got a point?..Ken Tool is usually about the best help a person can get but I didn't buy or test it like you did, I considered it but didn't look like it would work on alloys, had some success with the method mentioned by the other commenter, soaking with WD40 etc, then putting the nuts on by hand then back off a quarter turn, taking it out into the lot(pavement preferably)turning the wheel and stepping on the brakes, backwards and forward (not too much, get out and check your progress)(don't go down the street or start doing something else), and if that doesn't work, I have had some luck with an Enerpac spreader I found on Ebay and then hitting the tire on the opposite side....but this is breaking the safety rules, so..(try at your own risk)
I think I've seen it by Kiene, the WHEEL GRABBER, considerably more money though, I've often wondered about using air bags, but you would need to worry about it coming off all at once like a DAYTON wheel. ( need to put the nuts partly back on before then)
Just curious.. Whats under the rub rails on the side of the bus.. Is it flat or is it a seem where the metal is welded together? I wanted to buy a bus but wanna take the rub rails off so i can have a nice logo painted on the sides
I came across using that tool. Idk if it the same brand. I think it not but idk. It has worked for me. Spray sum wd40. It’ll work. Dont use it on the same spot ur trying to lose it from. U gotta go from 1 side to the other if it stuck that bad. Also DONT PUT UR HAND ON THE THREAD WHEN POWERING IT W AN IMPACT. Ur basically asking to cut ur hand off. Lmao, the thread will cut ur skin
does the sledgehammer dent the wheel? and, with an inner wheel stuck to the hub what is that tool pressing against? i see one piece attaching to the wheel wheres the other piece going? whenever i see someone swinging a sledge i think "gosh whats that doing to the bearings". i had a vehicle with a stuck rotor and a friend was recommending the sledgehammer i said, "umm NO"
Does the directions say to use an impact or a breaker bar turning it by hand ? On ball joint huge C clamps my directions say no impacts. Liquid wrench sprayed on it first might help. The suggestion of putting the nuts back on then leave just a little loose and drive it a few yards slow and hit the brakes , after tightening the tool some, and leaving tool in place when using the brakes. Salt is a bitch. Navy jelly the rusty parts prior to re assembling, maybe using never seize on all the flat surfaces and lightly round file the stud holes to knock off burrs inside rim holes, but don't go crazy.
just checking.....hope everything is OK.....rather unnerving not to hear from you.....especially after seeing you struggling with that tire......living in tucson az. i haven't done a damn thing to my bus....it's in the driveway and it gets to be about 900 degrees inside.....impossible to even think......but those winter months.....tee shirt time all day.... again i hope you are doing good....M
i bought one of these would be better if it was fine thread, being course thread it heated up quickly, after lubing continuously and marred all the threads so its now junk
I got a brand new fifty ton hydraulic gear puller I want to sell cheap. Weighs 95 pounds. Assembled by me right out the box. Piston moves out when pumped. Slowly retracts itself when relief is opened. OEM says it is pressure limited to 10,000 psi hydraulic pressure at 50 Tons Pull. Can use it choice of two arms or three.
Nothing works better than a chain and a 20-ton jack. Feed each end of the chain through 2 of the holes of the rim to make 2 loops, then put a bolt through the 2 loops to hold them together like a basket. Then, put a 20 ton Jack between the basket and the hub and start jacking like a puller. It works every time with a whole lot less effort.
It's a little tedius to put it all together, but believe you me, it works.
That impact is definitely tired. Either it’s time for a rebuild or a new impact and compressor with more scfm.
IR gives us those pieces of shit for free, the titanium 1/2 gun with composite body is where it's at. But they are like 500 bucks.
Just loosen the lug nuts and drive it around the block the wheel will come loose
I loosen the lugs and dropped it to the floor the next day it was loose,
Impact is sounding very weak
I think it's best to lube the helix with a good moly grease on the tool well, prior to using,, looks like it was dry right out of the box. I would have moved the tool several times to different holes before hitting it at all. Just a suggestion.
Well...a functional impact would be a good start 😂 If you move the tool from side to side you'll find they are much more effective and easier on the tool itself as well. You did however give me the information I was after so thank you for the video
I watched the video on this tool. I can't believe you guys run a shop. Have you heard of lubing threads on pullers for every use, and the 180 method should have been used alot more. Very amateur skills here.
That was the first time ever using the tool and it was pre-lubed. You must not live or work in the rust belt.
I hate to say it but I think he's got a point?..Ken Tool is usually about the best help a person can get but I didn't buy or test it like you did, I considered it but didn't look like it would work on alloys, had some success with the method mentioned by the other commenter, soaking with WD40 etc, then putting the nuts on by hand then back off a quarter turn, taking it out into the lot(pavement preferably)turning the wheel and stepping on the brakes, backwards and forward (not too much, get out and check your progress)(don't go down the street or start doing something else), and if that doesn't work, I have had some luck with an Enerpac spreader I found on Ebay and then hitting the tire on the opposite side....but this is breaking the safety rules, so..(try at your own risk)
They make a special puller just for this problem. Takes them off with ease. It’s pulls both side at the same time and uses a 1” drive
I think I've seen it by Kiene, the WHEEL GRABBER, considerably more money though, I've often wondered about using air bags, but you would need to worry about it coming off all at once like a DAYTON wheel. ( need to put the nuts partly back on before then)
Right now I’m looking at the K tools international 70385
An AIR CAT with a one-inch hose and some anti seize on those threads
I've seen guys use 2 of these at a time across from each other too. They do work nonetheless
Just curious.. Whats under the rub rails on the side of the bus.. Is it flat or is it a seem where the metal is welded together? I wanted to buy a bus but wanna take the rub rails off so i can have a nice logo painted on the sides
Figured id ask. You're the goto guy.
You can remove the rub rails. Sometimes there may be a seam, but just re-rivet it.
Needs more cowbell!
I came across using that tool. Idk if it the same brand. I think it not but idk. It has worked for me. Spray sum wd40. It’ll work. Dont use it on the same spot ur trying to lose it from. U gotta go from 1 side to the other if it stuck that bad. Also DONT PUT UR HAND ON THE THREAD WHEN POWERING IT W AN IMPACT. Ur basically asking to cut ur hand off. Lmao, the thread will cut ur skin
does the sledgehammer dent the wheel? and, with an inner wheel stuck to the hub what is that tool pressing against? i see one piece attaching to the wheel wheres the other piece going?
whenever i see someone swinging a sledge i think "gosh whats that doing to the bearings". i had a vehicle with a stuck rotor and a friend was recommending the sledgehammer i said, "umm NO"
Does the directions say to use an impact or a breaker bar turning it by hand ? On ball joint huge C clamps my directions say no impacts. Liquid wrench sprayed on it first might help. The suggestion of putting the nuts back on then leave just a little loose and drive it a few yards slow and hit the brakes , after tightening the tool some, and leaving tool in place when using the brakes. Salt is a bitch. Navy jelly the rusty parts prior to re assembling, maybe using never seize on all the flat surfaces and lightly round file the stud holes to knock off burrs inside rim holes, but don't go crazy.
Yes, more COWBELL.
I’ll just do it on the unit
Worried about the drum
That iR sucks. There are so much better guns available. I just ordered this tool I suspect my ir titanium will do better. Lube those threads too
just checking.....hope everything is OK.....rather unnerving not to hear from you.....especially after seeing you struggling with that tire......living in tucson az. i haven't done a damn thing to my bus....it's in the driveway and it gets to be about 900 degrees inside.....impossible to even think......but those winter months.....tee shirt time all day.... again i hope you are doing good....M
It's been really hot and humid here, so not much going on except work and trying to keep cool. Thanks for the concern.
i bought one of these would be better if it was fine thread, being course thread it heated up quickly, after lubing continuously and marred all the threads so its now junk
Lol,, he looks utterly disgusted
Lol the threaded rod was made of cheese.
I got a brand new fifty ton hydraulic gear puller I want to sell cheap. Weighs 95 pounds. Assembled by me right out the box. Piston moves out when pumped. Slowly retracts itself when relief is opened. OEM says it is pressure limited to 10,000 psi hydraulic pressure at 50 Tons Pull.
Can use it choice of two arms or three.