I almost sure those nuts treads" are inverted ""to the other direction I swear I some comercial trucks are like that..I think that's why you are breaking the nuts...
@@WeldedDiff84 the only effective red hot heat is from an acetylene torch. Red hot crushes the rust crystals. Which is potentially dangerous with an inflated tire. Super heating the rim can cause tire explosions. Although experienced people know what to do.
The problem of using brute torque force is that you are putting components under tremendous amount of stress way beyond its designed structural strength. The torque multiplier output is hundreds or more than a thousand of Nm, if the nut is rust-welded in, nut is twisting the stud with this huge amount of torque. The rust makes a very strong bond between the two and it needs to be cracked and transported away from the threads. I mostly don't believe in heating things up, that can cause variety of safety concerns on attached and nearby components which the heat could damage or affect it's metallurgical properties. Penetrating fluids can help, but not everywhere so one must be very aware of what can be done without doing any harm to the rest of the components. The best way I see for loosening any rust frozen nuts and bolts is a good strong impact gun, which mostly won't twist the stud but slowly break the rust bond and move the nut/bolt slowly away releasing the clamping force even though it would take some time ratting the gun... Knowing this few years back I would have not damaged the in-frame captive nuts for the subframe of my car... Using a breaker bar is not the best way for super frozen joints. So even if you have very little tool budget, try get a good impact instead of using a breaker bar, it can safe a lot of troubles later..
100 percent not reverse thread. Unless 50% of the studs are reverse and 50% are normal throughout each wheel on the truck. Thanks for your input and thanks for watching
04:53 "...thats nuts...", I see what you did there 😂
simple heat up with even propane torch and spray with PB blaster or ATF is really the thing to do.
Tried it.
How much
It was like 200
Inductive heating tool would get those cherry red...
Wow did it come out of the tool?
Yep
What does the arm grip too
The other lug nuts or the axle hub
You used a liquid penetrate, right? WD-40, etc.
Lol yep. I did that before buying a 100$ tool
I would have sprayed them with a good anti rust loosener the day before??
Now you need a stud..
Multiplier works great.
Sprayed them for 2 weeks thanks
I almost sure those nuts treads" are inverted ""to the other direction I swear I some comercial trucks are like that..I think that's why you are breaking the nuts...
Only broke 5 the other 3 came off. Soo unless it was only a couple were reverse thread. Tried both directions. Thanks for your evaluation
That’s what happened on my truck, Mecanic was trying and it was reverse thread
What is that a 3:1 multiplyer? I work on ship main engines and we use all the way up to 25:1 multipliers. Talk about torque!
Those Amazon torque multipliers are usually 50+:1 I've seen some as high as 68:1
Should have heated them up red hot first
Tried it on the first couple. No difference and I'm not keeping the studs so easier and quicker to just force it. Thanks for the watch!
@@WeldedDiff84 the only effective red hot heat is from an acetylene torch. Red hot crushes the rust crystals. Which is potentially dangerous with an inflated tire. Super heating the rim can cause tire explosions. Although experienced people know what to do.
The problem of using brute torque force is that you are putting components under tremendous amount of stress way beyond its designed structural strength. The torque multiplier output is hundreds or more than a thousand of Nm, if the nut is rust-welded in, nut is twisting the stud with this huge amount of torque. The rust makes a very strong bond between the two and it needs to be cracked and transported away from the threads. I mostly don't believe in heating things up, that can cause variety of safety concerns on attached and nearby components which the heat could damage or affect it's metallurgical properties. Penetrating fluids can help, but not everywhere so one must be very aware of what can be done without doing any harm to the rest of the components. The best way I see for loosening any rust frozen nuts and bolts is a good strong impact gun, which mostly won't twist the stud but slowly break the rust bond and move the nut/bolt slowly away releasing the clamping force even though it would take some time ratting the gun... Knowing this few years back I would have not damaged the in-frame captive nuts for the subframe of my car... Using a breaker bar is not the best way for super frozen joints. So even if you have very little tool budget, try get a good impact instead of using a breaker bar, it can safe a lot of troubles later..
Tried Impact gun, torch heat, penetrating oil. Cjeck the other videos. Thanks for your concern all components were replaced anyway.
Your turning the lug nuts in the wrong direction
There regular thread not reverse thread. Just completely fused with rust
100 percent not reverse thread. Unless 50% of the studs are reverse and 50% are normal throughout each wheel on the truck. Thanks for your input and thanks for watching
I enjoy reading all the hilarious comments and how absurd they are. I love all the armchair quarterbacks! Thanks for watching
Esa es rosca izquierda.😂😂😂😂
No it's not. Only 2 studs on one side are left handed I don't think so
Wrong direction officer
Nope
Luego comono se te van a tronar y partir,si se ve a leguas que nole das servicio de mantenimiento de mecánica
Pues compraste un maneral chafa, y no para alto impacto, t3ngo un maneral de 40" X 3/4 y funciona perfecto, aunque un multiplicador es genial.
Toptool.
Dont use extension and use proper socket 🤦♀️
Thanks for the input. Can't wait to see your video on the proper way to do it